Asia | TravelAwaits https://www.travelawaits.com/category/destinations/asia/ Our mission is to serve the 50+ traveler who's ready to cross a few items off their bucket list. Fri, 19 May 2023 20:18:15 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2 https://upload.travelawaits.com/ta/uploads/2021/04/TA.favicon.white_.260-150x150.png Asia | TravelAwaits https://www.travelawaits.com/category/destinations/asia/ 32 32 7 Amazing Stops To Experience Along The Silk Road https://www.travelawaits.com/2883186/best-stops-along-silk-road/ Sun, 21 May 2023 20:14:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2883186 Hot spring streams in Tbilisi, Georgia
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

The Silk Road is a legendary but very real 4,000-mile-plus-long trade route that connected Europe with China in a quest to not only buy silk but also shift plenty of other merchandise, such as spices and natural resources, along the way. Made up of many separate roads, including water routes across the Mediterranean from Venice or the Frankincense route from Oman, it used to take months and years to travel along the route. As a result, many cities and centers of learning sprang up along the way to help further the exchange, not only of goods but also knowledge.

I have been fascinated with the Silk Road ever since I read William Dalrymple’s In Xanadu: A Quest decades ago. But to travel along the many routes is not only extremely time-consuming but also a logistical nightmare due to conflicts, borders, difficulties obtaining visas, and a lack of connecting flights. So, instead, I bought a huge map and started to take shorter travels to some of the cities along the way, connecting the dots as I go.

I still have many places to see, some already booked, such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva in Uzbekistan later this year. Others are still in the planning stages, such as Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, Xi’an in China, and the constant dream about visiting Iran one day. So, watch out for part II of this story.

In the meantime, here are some fabulous cities I have discovered so far — all offering a Silk Road connection and many legendary sights to see.

Trade goods in Istanbul's Grand Bazaar
Trade goods in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

1. Istanbul, Turkiye

Istanbul, or Constantinople as it was then, was the official endpoint of the Silk Road, but I started my quest from Europe, so to me, Istanbul is the gateway to Asia and the Silk Road. Old Constantinople was not only the connection to the Mediterranean and Black Sea but it was a rich center of learning and a bustling trade hub. To get a feeling for what it must have been like in the Silk Road days, head straight to the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar, which opened in the mid-1400s. This was admittedly toward the end of the heyday of the ancient Silk Road, but it still would have welcomed traders from far away.

Pro Tip: The Silk Road then moved inland through the modern-day capital of Ankara toward the Caspian Sea, with many exciting stops along the way. To really get a feeling for the importance of the Silk Road in Turkiye, book a 10-day tour to find out more and stop in caravanserais along the way. (Caravanserais were roadside inns along the Silk Road for passing traders and travelers.)

Mount Ararat from the Cascade Complex
Mount Ararat from the Cascade Complex
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

2. Yerevan, Armenia

The capital of Armenia, Yerevan is not only one of the oldest inhabited cities on Earth but also a city that offers both ancient history and modern art, culture, and tradition as well as a palatable joie de vivre with cafés and terraces on every street. The best place to start your visit is at the Cascade Complex, a set of stairs leading from the sculpture park below, up 572 steps to a view across the city. With the mountains of Great Ararat and Little Ararat on the horizon, the Ararat Valley is also a major route through the region. Note that within the Cafesjian Arts Centre on the left of the steps is a series of escalators that save your legs on the way up. (I just wish I had found them before I climbed to the top!) The city itself is great to relax in, walk and explore, but it is also a perfect base for day trips to the many monasteries and Silk Road caravanserais located within the countryside. Armenia is a relatively small country, very mountainous, with lakes and valleys, and so much history, all quite easily visited during organized and guided tours.

Pro Tip: You can get a driver to take you from Yerevan all the way to Tbilisi, the next stop below, taking in some sights along the way. It is around a 5-hour drive from capital to capital but very scenic.

Caravanserai in Tbilisi
Caravanserai in Tbilisi
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

3. Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi may not be one of the better-known stops along the main route, but it was an often-used detour to rest weary travel bones in the city’s famous hot springs. The ancient baths along the springs have not changed at all since the Silk Road days. And to get a feeling for where travel-worn merchants would have stayed, head straight to the Tbilisi History Museum. It’s set in an old caravanserai where there were rooms for travelers, spaces and food for camels, and a market spot to trade at while you’re there. Today, the open space not only holds the history and a museum but also, down in the basement, a wine museum complete with a wine bar. And that might well have been another reason to stop off in Tbilisi; the Georgian wine is rather good.

Pro Tip: To keep in with the theme, don’t miss the State Silk Museum to learn more about the material that bore the trade route.

Zoroastrian Temple
Zoroastrian Temple
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

4. Baku, Azerbaijan

On the coast of the Caspian Sea, Azerbaijan’s capital city of Baku offers a superbly preserved look at Silk Road sights as they were when traders stopped to trade spices and cashmere on the way from India. The first stop should be the walled city of Icherisheher, with the Maiden Tower, its mosque, bazaar, and the wonderful Palace of the Shirvanshahs. There are also still many caravanserais dotted throughout the modern city, such as the lovely space around the Zoroastrian Fire Temple.

Pro Tip: To see more of the Land of Fire, where you find burning hills, petroglyphs, and mud volcanoes (all of which must have fascinated the Silk Road travelers even in the old days), book a private tour to Sheki.

Silk Road mural in Almaty
Silk Road mural in Almaty
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

5. Almaty, Kazakhstan

The first thing that struck me when arriving in Almaty was the snow-capped mountains that loomed on the horizon. They must have offered a mighty challenge to ancient merchants. Traveling through these mountain ranges hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago on camel or horseback must have been daunting. But they came and stayed a while in the green valleys around Almaty, probably gorging themselves on the plentiful apples that originate here. Here, there were craftsmen who mended armor and riding gear, and apparently, the jewelry trade was very popular. Something nice to bring back home after years on the road, I guess.

Pro Tip: Kazakhstan is a vast country and Almaty only offers a tiny glimpse. So, why not search out more Silk Road sights on a 4-day tour?

Fatehpur Sikri, India
Fatehpur Sikri, India
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

6. Fatehpur Sikri, India

Fatehpur Sikri — the City of Victory in the State of Uttar Pradesh’s Agra District in northern India — is often simply visited because it is close (ish) to the Taj Mahal. When I first visited this abandoned city years ago, I had no idea that it had a Silk Road connection. So, when I was putting pins into my Silk Road map, I was utterly delighted that I had stopped there.

Built in 1571 as the capital of the Mughal Empire, Fatehpur Sikri soon became a trading post for passing Silk Road routes because of the Mughal emperor’s patronage of the arts, crafts, and the court’s love of luxury goods, including silk. Abandoned by its emperor Akbar in 1585, Fatehpur remained a trading hub and center of craftsmanship. It still had one of India’s largest mosques and was a center of learning and religion. The city remained an important stop along the northern routes, so much so that in 1803, the trading giant East India Company settled there until 1850.

Pro Tip: When you find yourself in northern India, you will undoubtedly visit the Taj Mahal. Combine your trip with a visit to Fatehpur Sikri to marvel at this great abandoned city.

The Great Wall of China
The Great Wall of China
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

7. Beijing, China

While in ancient times, Xi’an was the last — or first — stop along the Silk Road, when the failing trade along the routes was restarted under Mongol rule in the 14th and 15th centuries, the route was expanded through China to eventually have Beijing as its starting point, or terminus. But even before then, intrepid merchant Marco Polo visited Beijing, or as it was then called, Dadu, the Great Capital, in the late 1200s. Giving you an idea of quite how long the Silk Road has been in operation, Marco Polo would have been in Beijing more than 100 years before the Forbidden City was even designed. But what he would have seen is the Pagoda of the Tianning Temple, the Great Wall of China, and, of course, the Marco Polo Bridge, which dates to 1189.

Pro Tip: Read The Travels of Marco Polo, but do it with a huge pinch of salt, as he is known to have made things up as he went. He was also not necessarily a good writer, but just the thought that he wrote those diary entries around the turn of the 13th century, and many of the sights he describes are still there, is quite mind-blowing.

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My 8 Favorite Experiences In Beautiful Siem Reap, Cambodia https://www.travelawaits.com/2882095/things-to-do-siem-reap-cambodia/ Mon, 15 May 2023 19:05:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2882095 Early morning shot of Angkor Wat
Michael Cullen

Siem Reap is the gateway to the fascinating UNESCO-listed Angkor Archaeological Park and attracts travelers seeking to learn about the ancient Khmer Kingdom — which ruled from the 9th to 15th centuries. Many people are also now visiting Cambodia to experience the spirit and resilience of this free-from-conflict and developing country.

As you wander the bustling streets of downtown Siem Reap, you’ll be swept up in the colorful chaos of tuk-tuks, street vendors, and bustling markets. But beyond this, Siem Reap offers an incredible array of experiences — from indulging in delicious Cambodian cuisine, exploring traditional Khmer villages, participating in Buddhist rituals with saffron-robed monks, or delving into the burgeoning art scene.

Let me introduce you to my favorite experiences from a recent trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Angkor Park scenes on Vespa Adventure Tours
Angkor Park scenes on Vespa Adventure Tours
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

1. Angkor Archaeological Park

The Angkor Archaeological Park contains the magnificent remains of the Khmer Empire’s different capitals, stretching over 155 square miles. Star attractions include Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious site; Bayon, renowned for its massive stone faces; Ta Prohm, with trees growing through the ruins; and Banteay Srei.

You can visit the park independently, by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or motorbike. The best option is to engage a park-accredited guide to understand the stories behind the structures, sculptures, and history.

Being a fan of small group touring, I found Vespa Adventures offered me the sense of freedom I was after. Then there is the fun of being piloted around the park on a gloriously maintained Vespa by an experienced bike rider. We traveled on quiet laneways and through forest paths, giving us a sense that we were the only visitors. We also arrived at less-crowded temple entrances and other sites. Our guide shared Angkorian stories at each stop.

Vespa Adventures offers full and half-day tours of Angkor Park, plus countryside tours and even an evening food tour. These have to be the best fun for people wanting a sense of independence and adventure while benefiting from a guided small group tour.

Pro Tip: Angkor park passes (personalized photo ID tickets) are only available from the official park ticket office. Single-day, 3-day, and 7-day passes are available, but one day is never enough. A 3-day pass, valid for 7 days, allows you to intersperse your park visits with other Siem Reap activities.

Countryside scene with our Grasshopper tour guide and trusty e-bikes
Countryside scene with our Grasshopper tour guide and trusty e-bikes
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

2. Grasshopper Adventures

What better way to see the countryside and gain glimpses of local people’s daily lives than by cycling? Grasshopper Adventures’ guided half and full-day tours around Siem Reap and the Angkor temples offer a selection of itineraries. And for us 60-something-year-old travelers, their E-bike Ultimate Countryside Tour sounded perfect.

Our guide, Bunvath, familiarized us with the e-bikes and gave us a safety brief — ready for the 7:30 a.m. start to beat the heat. We traveled on almost traffic-free back streets, and once in the country, it was down village lanes, between rice fields, and skirting through local farms.

The half-day tour had many breaks, including a temple with some friendly novice monks, a local fresh food market, and a scenic reservoir for a traditional late-morning snack. Plus, we visited two local villages to see people making rice noodles in one and sticky rice snacks in another. These were not “shows” put on for us, just life happening as it always does.

Pro Tip: Though Grasshopper Adventures offers regular bikes, an e-bike is recommended unless you are a seasoned bicycle rider. We traveled over relatively flat terrain; the e-bike made the 35 miles much more manageable, allowing us to take in the scenery and enjoy more of the experience.

Final briefing before we feed the waiting herds at Kulen Elephant Forest
Final briefing before we feed the waiting herds at Kulen Elephant Forest
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

3. Kulen Elephant Forest

Kulen Elephant Forest is 1,100 acres of protected forest an hour from Siem Reap. It is now home to the elephants that, until a few years ago, provided tourists with rides around the Angkor temples — a practice that has since ceased. Now retired, these elephants enjoy a long-awaited and well-deserved saddle- and chain-free life, rediscovering relationships within the herd while receiving the best care.

Visitors can do a morning or afternoon tour and learn about elephant conservation. In a hands-on approach, you’ll make snacks to feed the elephants and then wander with these giants as they graze and play. With only 75 captive elephants remaining in Cambodia, the leaders at Kulen Elephant Park aim to inspire other elephant owners across Cambodia to look more toward the conservation model as a natural alternative. The tour price contributes to this noble cause and is a tourism model I gladly support.

High-energy daredevil action at Phare Circus
High-energy daredevil action at Phare Circus
Photo credit: Phare, The Cambodian Circus

4. Phare Circus

Phare, the Cambodian Circus, is a cross between a highly energetic and engaging theater in the round on a smaller scale, though equally enthralling as Cirque du Soleil. Opening in 2013 to create meaningful employment opportunities for Cambodian artists, it continues to provide highly entertaining nightly shows under a 330-person big top.

The back story makes this venture even more compelling. Nine young Cambodian men in a refugee camp during the Khmer Rouge time found the provided drawing classes to be a powerful form of healing. Returning to their home district of Battambang in 1994, they began offering free drawing classes to street children.

They then opened a school named Phare Ponleu Selpak, which translates to “The Brightness of the Art.” Today, more than 1,200 pupils attend this open school, from entry-level to year 12. Additionally, some 500 students participate in vocational programs with professional visual arts, theater, music, dance, and circus training. All of this education is free to students, with much of the funding coming from Phare’s daily performances.

Phare’s spellbinding circus performance would attract adoring crowds at any international venue. Knowing that your ticket price does so much more than just keep these artists in work makes it a double “must-do”’ when visiting Siem Reap.

Pro Tip: Go early, enjoy street food and pre-show entertainment in the leafy courtyard, and browse the quality boutique and gift shop. Once again, all profits go back to the schools.

Garden dining at Cuisine Wat Damnak
Garden dining at Cuisine Wat Damnak
Photo credit: Cuisine Wat Damnak

5. Cuisine Wat Damnak

A native of Lyon, France, Chef Joannès Riviere first came to Cambodia as a volunteer cooking instructor in 2003. While at the Siem Reap Hotel School, Johannes created a “Cambodian Cooking” cookbook. The goal? Record and preserve recipes and the culinary knowledge of a country that had seen much of its past wiped out by the Khmer Rouge. Joannès then spent several years as executive chef at the city’s famed Hotel de la Paix before opening Cuisine Wat Damnak in 2013.

The setting is a transformed traditional teak timber house in a sculptured garden in the trending Wat Bo village within Siem Reap. With a dedication to farm-to-table and seasonality, Joannès and his business partner, Nguon Venchhay (Chai), offer a regularly changing six- to eight-course tasting menu showcasing the best of Cambodian cuisine, along with a plant-based tasting menu. The outcome is a decidedly delicious tour of Cambodian produce and culinary style served in a refined manner and well worth an evening of your time.

Pro Tip: If you are also visiting Cambodia’s capital city — Phnom Penh — book a table at the gloriously renovated villa that is Cuisine Wat Damnak, Phnom Penh.

Christian Develter gallery visit as part of Siem Reap Arts Tours
Christian Develter gallery visit as part of Siem Reap Arts Tours
Photo credit: Christian Develter gallery

6. Siem Reap Arts Tours

Robina Hanley, a 15-year resident of Temple Town, operates Siem Reap Arts Tours. Her behind-the-scenes tours not only take you to the exhibitions, galleries, workshops, ateliers, and boutiques of the surprising cadre of resident local and international artists, but she can also often introduce you to the artists themselves.

Examples of just two artists we met on this tour were Cambodian Master Artist Lim Muy Theam from Theam’s Gallery. His family became refugees in France due to the Khmer Rouge regime. Gaining fine arts and design qualifications, Theam returned to Cambodia in 1997 and has led initiatives reviving the arts and craft sector.

And the other artist we met in his new Siem Reap gallery, Belgium-born and now Cambodian-based Christian Develter exhibits his large, bright, and compelling pieces — like his Chin series depicting the intricately tattooed faces of Burmese tribal women.

Pro Tip: Robina curates tours for your particular interests. Be prepared to be wowed and impressively surprised at the creative arts and fashion scene in Siem Reap.

Signature Khmer massage at Sokkhak Riverside Spa
Signature Khmer massage at Sokkhak Riverside Spa
Photo credit: Sokkhak Riverside Spa

7. Sokkhak Riverside Spa

After hours of tramping around the ancient Angkor temples or Siem Reap’s bustling streets, your body will need a reward. Of the many massage studios and spas available, Sokkhak Riverside Spa stands out. Sokkhak means “tranquil” in Khmer and seems appropriate given the spa’s restful riverside location and invitingly spacious and luxurious ambiance.

Sokkhak Spa offers a broad range of spa and beauty treatments, facials, romantic packages, and massages, including their signature Khmer Traditional Massage —said to pre-date the famous Thai massage. Being a lover of Thai massages, I had to try the Khmer signature, and at the usual 90-minute finishing mark, I did not want it to stop. Bookings for Sokkhak Riverside Spa are recommended, and you may thank yourself (and me) once you visit.

Angkor Zipline ranger helps us navigate a crossing
Angkor Zipline ranger helps us navigate a crossing
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

8. Angkor Zipline

Ziplining has long been on our bucket list. The opportunity to soar through Angkor Archaeological Park’s treetops resolved our dilemma. Being apprehensive first-timers, the Angkor Zipline team impressed us with their dedication to safety and the comfort of their riders.

There are two tour options: “Gold” offers the most flies between the trees, plus the highest and longest runs; “Silver” misses out on the longest runs but has the bonus of abseiling down from the last platform for one final adrenaline hit. Part of the adventure is climbing narrow stairs and crossing sky bridges to reach various platforms. However, you are constantly clipped onto safety cables with the undivided attention of the safety rangers. At over 700 feet above the ground, the views are well worth it.

Our rangers mentioned that an 82-year-old lady had recently completed the course, dashing the thought we may have been the oldest.

Pro Tip: Angkor Zipline now offers a mountain bike tour to combine with ziplining. This way, you explore the tree tops and forest floor in a half-day tour.

For places to stay in Siem Reap, Cambodia, check out these six hotel experiences.

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6 Fantastic Boutique Hotels To Experience In Siem Reap, Cambodia https://www.travelawaits.com/2881195/best-boutique-hotels-siem-reap-cambodia/ Tue, 09 May 2023 22:04:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2881195 Infinity pool reflections at Zannier Hotels Phum Baitang Resort
Zannier Hotels Phum Baitang

Boutique hotels have become increasingly popular with travelers. They often have distinct personalities reflecting the local culture, history, or a specific theme, setting them apart from traditional chain hotels. Boutique hotels are often designed with a keen eye for detail, from the décor to the amenities. This creates a luxurious and sophisticated atmosphere appealing to those who value aesthetics and comfort. And as the name suggests, they have fewer rooms, which allows them to provide a more personalized guest experience.

In Cambodia’s northwest region, Siem Reap does “boutique” very well. It offers unique and personalized experiences focusing on sustainability, wellness, and preserving the local culture and environment. Here are six fantastic boutique hotels for travelers seeking the most memorable and authentic Siem Reap travel experience.

Treeline's lobby from the central courtyard
Treeline’s lobby from the central courtyard
Photo credit: Treeline Urban Resort

1. Treeline Urban Resort 

Treeline Urban Resort sits on a tree-lined boulevard overlooking the languid Siem Reap River just a few hundred yards from the Old Market and downtown area.

Leading Cambodian architect Hok Kang financed, designed, and built Treeline. The 48 deluxe rooms and suites exude a minimalist and contemporary vibe. Sustainably sourced native timber combines with stone features and locally handmade soft furnishings to create a place of serene, laid-back luxury. Art is part of the aesthetic, with dedicated spaces from the lobby, central courtyard, and beyond showcasing collections of contemporary art and dramatic sculptural pieces.

The sustainability theme flows into the resort’s three restaurants, where carefully sourced local producers supply the freshest ingredients. Treeline’s eateries also boast impressive plant-based menu options. Brown Coffee, famous for starting Cambodia’s café revolution, is immediately adjacent to the resort and a must for your espresso-style caffeine hits.

Amenities

The onsite SURI Spa incorporates Southeast Asian massage traditions with Ayurvedic influences to help guests find their bliss. The exclusive rooftop CANOPY Bar and infinity pool offer all-day snacks and beverages. It is also perfect to watch the sun go down amongst the treetops overlooking the Siem Reap River.

Pro Tip: I particularly like the “Deluxe Living” guest rooms for their first-floor location overlooking the resort’s green and soothing inner courtyard garden. They are the only rooms with balconies allowing guests to combine outdoor and indoor living.

Viroth's Hotel entrance with their signature vintage Mercedes
Viroth’s Hotel entrance with their signature vintage Mercedes
Photo credit: Viroth’s Hotel

2. Viroth’s Hotel

Viroth’s Hotel sits in the central Wat Bo area of Siem Reap. It is just a few hundred meters from the river and neighboring Treeline Urban Resort. Opened in 2015, Viroth’s Hotel is a 35-room stylish, modern retreat taking its design from the modernist movement of the ‘50s and ‘60s. The vintage Mercedes cars in prime position at the hotel’s entrance add to the retro-chic feel.

The guest rooms balance stylish detailing with trendy design. They are decorated with chic interiors, vintage furnishings, modern amenities, and hand-picked artifacts. Tiled floors, a generous light-filled terrazzo bathroom, and spacious private terraces complete the picture.

Amenities

The hotel’s palm-fringed central courtyard with a 65-foot saltwater pool is the place to be. Alfresco poolside dining is available from breakfast to evening. A glassed and air-conditioned space complete with linen-clad tables is also open. International dishes or a seasonally inspired Khmer menu are available in both settings.

Sokkhak Spa is the Khmer name for tranquillity with treatments, including revitalizing facials, beautifying wraps, and soul-soothing rubs. Other facilities Viroth’s offers include a functional gym and a library for that quiet escape. Oh, and those vintage cars out front are for your airport transfers.

Pro Tip: Pick a guest room overlooking the pool for the best outlook and the bonus of a bit of people watching, if that’s your thing.

Jaya House's relaxed chic style of guest rooms
Jaya House’s relaxed chic style of guest rooms
Photo credit: Jaya House River Park

3. Jaya House River Park 

Situated on a tranquil section of the river just 6 minutes from downtown Siem Reap, Jaya House River Park mixes style and a social conscience. It is Cambodia’s first plastic-free hotel.

Jaya House Managing Director Christian de Boer, with two other local business operators, initiated the “Refill not Landfill” project in 2016. The goal: Replace one-use plastic water bottles with refillable ones while providing easily accessible refill stations. Now well established in Siem Reap, the program has also spread internationally.

Inspired by 1960s Cambodian Modernism, Jaya House’s 36 spacious rooms and suites all feature a balcony or terrace overlooking the tropical garden. The four Junior Pool Suites have open-air plunge pools. The guest rooms showcase soothing neutral tones, tactile local fabrics, high thread-count linens, and artisan touches. The sparkling bathrooms feature Jaya House’s range of organic toiletries.

Amenities

Jaya House’s all-day-dining restaurant serves a variety of Khmer cuisine, classic Western dishes, and a plant-based menu. River House Spa therapists are ready to calm your senses and restore your mind, body, and soul through a range of specialist treatments. Two pools are available for relaxation, including one lined with sparkling, solid silver tiles, which looks even more spectacular at night.

Pro Tip: I particularly appreciate the standard room rate inclusions. Sure, breakfast for two is typical. Add daily laundry service, 60-minute spa treatments per person per day, complimentary mini-bar, on-the-house tuk-tuk rides to town, and airport transfers.

Open-plan Colonial pool suite at Heritage Suites
Open-plan Colonial pool suite at Heritage Suites
Photo credit: Heritage Suites Hotel

4. Heritage Suites Hotel 

Heritage Suites Hotel is hidden in a lane just a short walk from the river and promises genuine Cambodian hospitality with European luxury. The property is a short 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from downtown Siem Reap.

Six Heritage hotel-style rooms are available, though, I recommend one of the 20 spacious suites. Ten of these suites come with their own plunge pool. These private havens exude retro cool and come with high ceilings, skylights, small private gardens with rain showers, Khmer design elements, and modern amenities. Each suite even has its own steam room.

Amenities

At the resort’s entrance, the colonial-era main building houses the Heritage Restaurant and bar with a menu fusing international and local cuisines in a refined manner. The poolside Bamboo Bar offers cooling drinks, cocktails, and light snacks, and is a calm green setting for those sundowners after a day out exploring. The onsite Heritage Spa signature treatments promise the ultimate pampering and wellness experiences.

Heritage Suites’ in-house travel agency can organize all your Siem Reap excursions. They even have a boat on Tonlé Sap lake for sunset cruises or other day trips. The hotel’s two vintage Mercedes are ideal for airport transfers and add extra style for those personalized day tours. 

Rustic chic style of Phum Baitang villas
Rustic chic style of Phum Baitang villas
Photo credit: Zannier Hotels Phum Baitang

5. Zannier Hotels Phum Baitang

Phum Baitang is modeled after a Cambodian village and set within 20 acres of lush gardens and palm-tree-lined rice paddies complete with water buffaloes. This all-villa luxury resort features 25 private terrace villas and 20 pool villas. These generously sized wooden villas are designed to capture the rustic charm of traditional Khmer farmhouses. Although, these “farmhouses” come furnished with hand-picked antiques, elegant linen, enormous oval tubs, and inviting daybeds on the terrace.

Amenities

The villas are separated by working rice fields. These paddies are harvested three times a year and guests are welcome to join the harvest. Long timber walkways connect each resort area with complimentary bicycles for guests’ use on the grounds. The freeform 50-meter (about 164 feet) saltwater pool is great for lounging or laps and it offers excellent views over the rice fields. Spa Temple, styled with Angkor-era design elements, offers seven treatment bungalows, a sauna and steam room, and a small but well-equipped gym.

Bay Phsar (informal) and Hang Bay (fine dining) are the resort’s two restaurants and offer locally-inspired flavors and international favorites. The Sunset Lounge, a 100-year-old Cambodian farmhouse, is ideal for those spectacular Angkorian sunsets. Furnished with comfy rattan chairs, it offers traditional and innovative cocktails, fine wines, vintage liqueurs, and premium cigars.

Phum Baitang is a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride from downtown Siem Reap.

Anantara's suites overlook the pool and central courtyard
Anantara’s suites overlook the pool and central courtyard
Photo credit: Anantara Angkor Resort

6. Anantara Angkor Resort 

The all-suite Anantara Angkor Resort resembles a modern take on a regal Khmer villa. Its 39 expansive and elegantly comfortable suites cluster around a central courtyard and an inviting 18-meter (about 59 feet) saltwater pool. Suites successfully combine Khmer design elements with state-of-the-art amenities, handcrafted teak wood furniture, rich textiles, and unique local artwork. They also come with the resort’s one-call-service concept delivered by Experience Butlers.

Chi is the resort’s all-day dining restaurant. It offers an international buffet and live cooking stations for breakfast, while organic, farm-to-table, progressive Khmer cuisine is provided for lunch and dinner. Anantara’s Dining by Design concept offers guests an especially curated Khmer dining experience in a sculptured courtyard accompanied by an Apsara dance performance. Spice Spoon cooking classes are also available. 

Amenities

Drawing inspiration from centuries of local know-how, Anantara Spa offers indulgent treatments to soothe aching muscles after long days of discovery. The resort’s Experience Butlers are ready to help you maximize your time in Siem Reap. Be it a tailored range of Signature Experiences, like guided tours of Angkor Archaeological Park with their Temple Guru or private market tours with their Streetwise Guru.

Anantara Angkor is a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride to Siem Reap’s Old Market area. The airport is just 10 minutes away.

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16 Unique And Delicious Foods You Need To Try In Japan https://www.travelawaits.com/2881157/best-foods-to-try-japan/ Mon, 08 May 2023 22:17:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2881157 Ramen and tempura dish in Japan
Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

A trip to Japan is full of wonderful experiences — cherry blossoms, hot springs, temples and shrines, castles, gardens, karaoke, and… exquisite culinary adventures. Japan is second only to France for the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world. When thinking about Japanese food, most people picture sushi, sashimi, and tempura. As we discovered, there is so much more.

Before arriving, we consulted with our friends and colleagues in Japan to plan for a food tour of the country — Tokyo, Nagano, Kyoto, and Hiroshima. Our focus was on reasonably priced places where locals eat. We did, however, skip Osaka (an important food destination). Japan will be a place that we visit often, especially to sample more of its culinary offerings. Here’s a list of our favorite foods from Japan, in no particular order.

1. Sushi And Sashimi

Sushi is one of Japan’s worldwide exports. Often lumped together, sushi and sashimi are different dishes. Sushi is served over seasoned rice, while sashimi is served on a platter without rice. For a unique twist, try sushi at a stand-up restaurant in Tokyo station. Or, if you prefer sitting, try it at a conveyor belt sushi bar. Both styles are good for inexpensive, quick meals.

Where To Find Sushi And Sashimi 

  • Tokyo Station at Uogashi Nihon Ichi
  • Kyoto Station at Sushi No Musashi 
Black sesame ramen in Nagano
Black sesame ramen in Nagano
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

2. Ramen 

Noodles in Japan are a treat and slurping is the way to let the chef know that you are enjoying the food. Ramen, udon, and soba are the main types of noodles in Japan. Ramen is a thin wheat noodle typically served in a savory miso or soy sauce broth with slices of pork or tempura, egg, and seaweed. Our favorite ramen meals were black sesame ramen from Yudanaka Ramen Shop and wonderful duck ramen noodles in Kyoto.

Where To Find Ramen 

  • Yudanaka Ramen Shop (a short drive from Snow Monkey Park) or Duck Noodles in Gion, Kyoto

3. Soba

Made with buckwheat, soba noodles are served hot or cold with vegetables, seafood, or pork. Chilled soba comes with a dipping sauce. Nagano is considered the best place to eat soba but we also enjoyed it in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Where To Find Soba 

  • Second floor of the Ueno Train Station in Tokyo
Udon dishes in Matsumoto
Udon dishes in Matsumoto
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

4. Udon

Udon noodles are thick wheat noodles mostly served in a hot dashi (Japanese soup stock) broth with shrimp tempura, slices of fish cakes, and scallions. The noodles are hearty and chewy with a delicious broth.

Where To Find Udon 

  • In Matsumoto at Mikami 

5. Tempura

Noodles are often served with tempura. Tempura is made with seafood or vegetables lightly battered with flour and deep-fried to a light crisp. You can also order tempura as a separate entrée. An alternative is a seafood or vegetable patty that has been deep-fried and is often served with noodle dishes.

Making okonomiyaki in Shibuya, Tokyo
Making okonomiyaki in Shibuya, Tokyo
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

6. Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki is a savory and popular street food made with flour, cabbage, and eggs topped with pork, chicken, seafood, or — in Hiroshima — oysters. The fried pancake is finished with mayonnaise and a sprinkling of dried bonito flakes.

We tried cooking okonomiyaki at Sakura-Tei in Tokyo. We made a mess but it was delicious. On Miyajima Island, Hiroshima, we ate the traditional okonomiyaki with oysters. No matter where you eat this dish, it is tasty and fun.

Where To Find Okonomiyaki

  • In Tokyo at Sakura-Tei (cook yourself)
  • On Miyajima Island at Momobros or any of the many places in the shopping area

7. Yakitori

An izakaya is a small, local bar for hanging out with friends. Most serve drinks and snacks. Freshly grilled over charcoal, yakitori is marinated chicken on a stick or skewer. Yakiton is skewered pork. Both are very tasty and go very well with beer. We were able to sample different types of yakitori and ton negima (pork belly) while hanging out with the locals along Ameyoko Street in Ueno, Tokyo.

Where To Find Yakitori

  • In Ueno, Tokyo, on Ameyoko Street
Kobe beef bento box from Ikeben
Kobe beef bento box from Ikeben
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

8. Bento Box

Bento lunches are a staple among office workers throughout Japan. The lunches are beautifully packaged and can include rice or noodles, chicken, pork, eel or salmon, Japanese plum or pickles, radishes, seaweed, and even a few slices of fruit. It is a complete meal for lunch and is sold in grocery stores, convenience stores, and department stores. Ekibens — train station bento boxes — are sold on the platforms of train stations. We purchased ours on a train platform in Shin Kobi and at the Takashimaya department store in Tokyo.

Where To Find Bento Boxes 

  • Takashimaya department stores in Tokyo

9. Yuba

Our Japanese friends recommended that we try yuba when we were in Kyoto. They never steered us wrong. Yuba is a tasty, stringy, and chewy tofu skin made from the top layer of boiled soy milk. It was almost like cheese with a chewy consistency.

Where To Find Yuba 

  • At Nishiki Market and Sakura Terrace Gallery in Kyoto
Hiroshima oysters
Hiroshima oysters
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

10. Oysters

Hiroshima is known for oysters. If you go to Hiroshima, do not miss eating them. They are very fresh and some were as large as our palms. You can have them steamed, grilled, roasted, deep-fried, and raw. Try them one way, or like us, try them every way.

Where To Find Oysters

  • In Hiroshima at Ekohiiki restaurant

11. Wagyu Beef

If you are a beef lover, you have to try wagyu beef in Japan. Soft and buttery, it melts in your mouth. The tender cuts of Japanese beef are cooked teppanyaki-style or grilled. Japan is known for Kobe beef but that’s not the only region that has amazing wagyu. We had incredible wagyu from Kyushu as well.

Where To Find Wagyu Beef

  • In ShinKobe at Neiro
  • In Kyoto at Sakura Terrace The Gallery 

12. Tonjiru Soup

Tonjiru is Japanese soul food cooked with pork and root vegetables like daikon, burdock, and carrot. It is commonly eaten during winter. We had the good fortune of enjoying homemade tonjiru in Tokyo. You can find it at many local restaurants throughout Japan.

Chestnut treats in Obuse, Nagano
Chestnut treats in Obuse, Nagano
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

13. Chestnut Creations

When you think of chestnuts, Japan is probably not the first place that comes to mind. Japan, however, has amazing chestnuts and chestnut pastries. If you are in Nagano prefecture, Obuse is the place to go to sample wonderful, airy, and mousse-like chestnut cream custard pastries and tea cakes. They are exquisite. They need to be immediately eaten so leave room in your stomach after sampling the nearby soba.

Where To Find Chestnut Pastries

  • In Obuse, Mont Blanc is one of the oldest stores. There are others nearby as well. 

14. Momiji Manju

Momiji manju is a Japanese maple-leaf-shaped cake filled with adzuki red bean paste, matcha, chocolate, or custard. It is either baked or deep-fried. We had our first taste of momiji manju with friends on Miyajima Island. They insisted that we try the most traditional kind with red bean paste. We brought home many boxes of it. 

Nagano oyaki
Nagano oyaki
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

15. Oyaki

We loved oyaki — pan-fried dumplings made with chewy wheat dough. The savory ones were stuffed with chicken, mushrooms, and onions while the sweet ones had matcha, red bean cream, and cheese. They were perfect for breakfast and a staple of the Nagano prefecture. 

16. Obanzai

The 400-year-old Nishiki Market has over 100 stalls selling street food, snacks, and more. Wander the market sampling or go to a restaurant and try Kyoto’s traditional obanzai meal with several small dishes. Or, like us, do both. 

So Many More Dishes To Try

We loved discovering the breadth of food in Japan and we could have included so many more dishes. Taiyaki is a fish-shaped cake filled with matcha or adzuki red beans in Kyoto. Tonkatsu is a breaded deep-fried pork cutlet usually served with rice and cabbage on the side. Donburi is cooked meats or seafood like grilled eel over rice. Japanese food is so much more than sushi, sashimi, ramen, and tempura. Enjoy!

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13 Incredible Things To Do In Nagano, Japan https://www.travelawaits.com/2880437/things-to-do-nagano-japan/ Wed, 03 May 2023 17:07:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2880437 Matsumoto Castle in Nagano, Japan
Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

When people head to Nagano, it is often a day trip from Tokyo to see the snow monkeys at Jigokudani Park. Some may spend a few days on the ski slopes. These are wonderful things to do in Nagano Prefecture (otherwise known as a county in Japan).

But there is so much more to do in Nagano. Beautiful vistas, temples, art museums, and wonderful food are awaiting in the area. We spent 3 days there and didn’t have enough time for all that we wanted to see and do. And you can’t go wrong in any season. Here are, in no particular order, 13 incredible things to do in Nagano Prefecture.

Zenkoji Temple in Nagano
Zenkoji Temple in Nagano
Photo credit: Regina Ang / travelforlifenow.com

1. Zenkoji Temple

Zenkoji, located in the heart of Nagano, is one of the oldest, most important, and most popular temples. The temple houses one of the first Buddhist statues that was brought to Japan from India in the 7th century. The statue (a copy) is only displayed every 7 years. The “Key to Paradise” found in the basement is accessed via an underground passage below the inner chamber. It is in complete darkness and an exciting discovery. In addition, the temple features a garden and is especially picturesque during the cherry blossom season.

There are lodgings along the street leading up to the main temple from the Sanmon gate. These temple lodgings are available for devotees to spend the night and be at the temple for the early morning sunrise prayers. The streets leading up to the main hall are also lined with shops selling souvenirs and ritual prayer items.

2. Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle, originally conceived as a fortress, is one of the few remaining original castles registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Completed in the mid-1500s, the castle boasts a moat brimming with bright and colorful koi fish. The carp are so huge you can even spot them from the very top of the castle on the sixth floor. Entry to the castle is free and there are volunteer guides who give tours in several languages.

Be careful when climbing the keep, the stairs are extremely steep, and no footwear is allowed. You will see ancient guns, armor, and other war artifacts on several of the floors while ascending to the top. The views are excellent; you can even spot the Hida Mountains (Northern Alps) on a clear day.

Yayoi Kusama sculpture outside of the Matsumoto City Museum
Yayoi Kusama sculpture outside of the Matsumoto City Museum
Photo credit: Regina Ang / travelforlifenow.com

3. Matsumoto City Museum

Matsumoto is the birthplace and current residence of renowned international artist and sculptor, Yayoi Kusama. The Matsumoto City Museum of Art showcases the largest collection of her artwork. One room holds one of her famous yellow and black polka-dotted pumpkin sculptures. Several of her colorful polka-dotted flower and plant-themed outdoor sculptures are in front of the museum.

4. Nawate Street

Located between the castle and the train station, Nawate Street is open only to foot traffic. It is full of cute cafes, souvenir shops, and even a shrine. The shops represent a good example of Edo-period (late 1700s and early 1800s) architecture. Explore the side streets in neighboring Nakamichi and you may stumble upon a brewery or traditional craft shops selling lacquerware and other local crafts

5. Ishii Miso Brewery

Nagano is Japan’s largest miso producer, and you can see how it is made and grown just outside of Matsumoto. The tasty paste is made traditionally using wooden barrels for fermentation. You can have a meal and purchase the region’s best miso. 

Chestnut cream puff in Obuse
Chestnut cream puff in Obuse
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

6. Obuse

Obuse is a small walkable historic town dating back to the Edo period, located just a 30-minute train ride from Nagano City. You’ll find delectable chestnut pastries and wonderful art. It’s perfect for a day trip from Nagano City. 

7. Gaisho-In Temple

Katsushika Hokusai is one of the most important Japanese artists from the Edo period. In Obuse, you can see one of his last masterpieces at the Gaisho-in Temple, on the outskirts of Obuse. The mural of a phoenix painted on the ceiling of the temple stares down at you. No matter which corner of the hall you stand in, you feel its eyes directly piercing straight at you!

Hokusai Museum in Obuse
Hokusai Museum in Obuse
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

8. Hokusai Museum

After visiting Gaisho-in Temple, you can learn more about Hokusai at the Hokusai Museum. He spent the last years of his life in Obuse, so it’s a natural place for a museum devoted to his work. Hokusai started his career in woodblock prints and moved to painting later in life. His work was collected by many famous artists, including Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet, Degas, Gaugin, and others.

9. Chestnut Delicacies In Obuse

After experiencing the art in Obuse, it’s time to sample the culinary offerings. Chestnuts and chestnut creams are a specialty, and they are delicious. They are freshly made and don’t travel well, so you must eat them immediately. You won’t be disappointed. If sweets are not your thing, check out the sake brewery in town for a sake tasting.

10. Hakuba Happo Olympic Park

Hakuba in Nagano Prefecture was the site of the Winter Olympics in 1998 and is being considered as a future site. This makes Nagano a very popular place for skiing and snowboarding.

Hakuba Happo-One Snow Resort hosted several skiing events during the 1998 Winter Olympics. Besides skiing, you can snowboard, snowshoe, trek, and even bathe in one of the highest outdoor onsens (hot springs) in Japan, known for its healing properties.

Pro Tip: Hakuba Happo-One Resort is only a 65-minute bus ride from the Nagano City train station. There are several restaurants and lodging choices as well as gear rental on site. 

11. Oyaki

Nagano is known for oyaki (a street food), Soba, and horse meat sashimi. We tried the first two but declined the third. Oyaki are pan-fried Japanese dumplings made with a chewy wheat dough stuffed with vegetables, mushrooms, or meat. Sweet oyaki are filled with azuki red beans. They are tasty and perfect as a snack, breakfast, or lunch item. We bought them for our Shinkansen train rides.

Stand-up soba noodles in a Nagano train station
Stand-up soba noodles in a Nagano train station
Photo credit: Regina Ang / travelforlifenow.com

12. Soba Noodles

Nagano is known for buckwheat production and soba noodles. We decided to investigate a stand-up soba shop at the train station. At the stand-up shop, you select your noodle, purchase tickets for the noodle of your choice from the vending machine, and present the ticket to the kitchen. Your order is quickly delivered to your standing counter for you to slurp your delicious meal! This is where the locals eat. It’s perfect for a cold winter’s day — delicious, affordable, and quick. 

13. Nagano’s Onsens

Nagano is one of the best places to experience an onsen — a traditional bath with water from Japan’s natural hot springs. It’s best to do an onsen in a mountainous region like Nagano. This is a great activity after a day of skiing or hiking to see the snow monkeys. You can do a full onsen, or, like us, a foot onsen.

View of the Hida Mountains, the Japanese northern Alps
View of the Hida Mountains, the Japanese Northern Alps
Photo credit: Sue Davies / travelforlifenow.com

Visiting Nagano And The Surrounding Area 

Nagano Prefecture is larger than Nagano City. The Prefecture is made up of many towns, with Nagano City being in the center.

Matsumoto City lies in the valley below the Hida Mountains. Less than an hour’s bullet train ride from Nagano City, the city is an easy day trip or a weekend destination. The train ride has lovely views of the mountains.

You can base yourself in Nagano City and do day trips, or spend more time in the prefecture. Obuse is great for a day trip while Matsumoto can be a weekend or a destination for a few days.

Obuse can be reached by a 30-minute train ride and is small enough to walk around or hire taxis from the train station. Matsumoto is more spread out and better done by hiring a car or doing a tour from Nagano.

There are more things we could have added to this list. In Matsumoto, you can visit the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum (woodblock prints), the Daio Wasabi Farm, the Timepiece Museum, and hike Mount Norikura. In Nagano, the Nagano Prefecture Shinano Art Museum and Togakushi Shrine are worth visiting. There are also many wonderful towns nearby to experience.

Related Reading: 

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My 9 Favorite World Heritage Sites I Visited In Japan https://www.travelawaits.com/2876567/world-heritage-sites-to-visit-in-japan/ Mon, 17 Apr 2023 16:11:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2876567 Mt. Fuji from the Kawaguchiko Natural Living Center on Lake Kawaguchiko's north shore
Denise Stephens

The list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites includes significant historic, cultural, and natural sites worldwide that are worthy of preservation. I enjoy visiting World Heritage sites to learn more about the country I’m traveling in.

Japan has 25 World Heritage listings, some of them covering multiple locations, so there are a lot of places for lovers of history and culture to choose from. The sites cover history from prehistoric times, through the early years of Buddhism, to more recent history when the atomic bomb destroyed Hiroshima. There are temples, shrines, castles, industrial complexes, whole villages, and more. 

Here are some of my favorites that I’ve visited on trips to Japan over the years.

Toshogu Shrine in Nikko
The Toshogu Shrine in Nikko is known for its ornate decoration.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

1. Toshogu Shrine

Nikko

Of all the shrines and temples included in Nikko’s World Heritage listing, Toshogu Shrine is the largest and most splendid. The shrine’s vivid colors contrast with the green forest and its buildings are covered with ornate carvings — the most notable being the three monkeys that inspired the saying “See no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil.” I loved the incredible details of animals, mythical creatures, and decorative flourishes that create an overall impression of opulence.

Nikko is a popular day trip from Tokyo, about 2 hours by train followed by a short bus trip up the hill to the shrine.

Mt. Fuji from the walking path along the north shore of Lake Kawaguchiko
Mt. Fuji from the walking path along the north shore of Lake Kawaguchiko
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

2. Mount Fuji

Yamanashi And Shizuoka

Mt. Fuji’s perfect volcanic cone has appeared in Japanese art for centuries. It has religious significance, with shrines dotted along the paths to the summit for the faithful to stop and pray.

When weather conditions are excellent, it’s possible to spot Mt. Fuji from Tokyo while traveling on the shinkansen train or while flying into Tokyo. The towns around Mt. Fuji have better views, and Hakone and Kawaguchiko are popular choices for a day trip from Tokyo, being only a couple of hours away by bus or train.

I prefer Kawaguchiko, which is quieter than Hakone. Staying overnight gave me enough time to see Mt. Fuji from the top of the ropeway on a lake cruise and while walking along the lake’s north shore. The views from there are excellent, and sometimes, Mt. Fuji is reflected in the water.

Traditional gassho zukuri houses preserved in Shirakawago
Traditional gassho zukuri houses are preserved in Shirakawago.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

3. Shirakawago

Gifu

The traditional wooden houses of Shirakawago are known as gassho zukuri, or praying hands, because the steep pitch of the roofs resembles hands joined in prayer. The village was preserved thanks to its location deep in the mountains, and visitors can go inside some of the houses to see how people used to live and work.

While many visitors stop for just a few hours, it’s possible to stay overnight in one of the houses. I enjoyed eating dinner by an open fireplace, and after a good night’s sleep, waking up to a magical view over the rice fields.

Shirakawago is accessible via car or bus from Takayama and Kanazawa. No vehicles are allowed inside the village, so visitors need to walk up from the carpark and across a bridge.

Byodo-in's Phoenix Hall reflected in a pond
Byodo-in’s Phoenix Hall is reflected in a pond.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

4. Byodo-In Temple

Uji

The most well-known temples in Kyoto, such as Kiyomizudera and Kinkakuji, can get very crowded. Some other temples included in the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto World Heritage listing are much quieter, such as Byodo-in temple in nearby Uji, less than 30 minutes by train from Kyoto station.

Byodo-in’s main building, the Phoenix Hall, is about 1,000 years old and is featured on Japan’s 10-yen coin. Inside, there is a splendid gilded statue of Buddha, although there’s sometimes a queue as visits are done in small groups to preserve the interior. I loved walking around the garden, which felt very tranquil with the temple reflected in the pond.

The Daibutsuden of Todaiji Temple in Nara
The Daibutsuden of Todaiji Temple in Nara is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

5. Todaiji Temple

Nara

Many people visit Nara to see the sacred deer wandering the streets, but the Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara are another attraction. Todaiji is the most impressive of these and its most-visited building is the Daibutsu-den, or Great Buddha Hall. It is over 300 years old and one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.

While the size of the building is impressive enough, I found entering the temple awe-inspiring. The Great Buddha gleamed in the dim light, a serene presence looking over the people below. This 50-foot-tall bronze statue is surrounded by other religious statues, making the interior a spectacular sight.

Nara can be reached in less than an hour by train from either Osaka or Kyoto.

Pro Tip: Going from the station to the temple, you are likely to encounter some sacred deer. While they are used to humans, they are still wild animals. It’s best to keep any snacks zipped away in your bag when they are nearby and be careful when holding maps or brochures. The deer have been known to eat those too!

Himeji Castle
Himeji Castle is Japan’s largest castle.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

6. Himeji Castle

Himeji

Himeji Castle is Japan’s largest and it is also an original construction, not a reproduction like Osaka Castle. While visiting the grounds is free, it’s worth paying to look inside the interior of this 400-year-old building. The dark timbers have mellowed with age, and information panels describe the traditional building techniques and how the castle defenses worked.

After climbing up the steep stairs, the attendant greeted me, saying “Congratulations! You have reached the top floor.” I took a much-needed break to enjoy the panoramic view over Himeji. Back on ground level, I strolled through the very pretty Koko-en garden next door, which is an ideal spot to get good photographs of the castle.

It’s an easy day trip by train from Osaka or Kyoto.

The Atomic Bomb Dome in Hiroshima during autumn
The Atomic Bomb Dome in Hiroshima during autumn
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

7. Atomic Bomb Dome

Hiroshima

The Hiroshima Peace Park is an open green space today, but it used to be a busy area where thousands lived and worked. The atomic bomb in 1945 destroyed almost everything, but the office building known as the Atomic Bomb Dome survived. 

While the park, with its museum and memorials, was designed to record history and inspire peace, I found the Atomic Bomb Dome a tangible and poignant reminder of the force of the bomb. It forms a backdrop to many views from the park, a stark contrast to the spring cherry blossoms and autumn foliage.

The sightseeing loop bus from Hiroshima station stops at the Atomic Bomb Dome.

Itsukushima Shrine
The Itsukushima Shrine is more peaceful at dawn, before ferries arrive at Miyajima.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

8. Itsukushima Shrine

Miyajima

Visitors get their first glimpse of Itsukushima’s famous torii gate as the ferry approaches Miyajima. Itsukushima Shrine is built over the water and, at high tide, the shrine and the torii appear to float on the water. At low tide, you can walk out to the torii. The shrine buildings are painted a vivid red, a striking contrast with the sea.

By staying on Miyajima, I was able to visit Itsukushima at dawn when it was tranquil and the reflections in the sea were undisturbed by the comings and goings of ferries. Because it’s so close to Hiroshima, Itsukushima can get crowded in the middle of the day.

Oura Church in Nagasaki
The Oura Church in Nagasaki was built by French missionaries in the 19th century.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

9. Oura Church

Nagasaki

In a country of temples and shrines, Oura Church stands out in central Nagasaki. One of the Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki region, the church was built by French missionaries in 1864. Japanese Christians who had kept their faith a secret for hundreds of years were inspired by the sight of the church to come out of hiding.

The former seminary next door has an exhibit on the history of the Catholic Church in Japan. I found this fascinating as it covers the period when Japan closed its doors to the rest of the world for centuries and, despite persecution, Catholic communities remained in remote places.

Pro Tip: What’s the difference between a shrine and a temple? A shrine is a place of worship for Japan’s Shinto religion, and it can be recognized by the torii gate at the entrance. Buddhists worship in temples, and there are statues of Buddha inside the temple and also around the grounds.

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I Just Survived 30 Hours Of Travel To The Maldives — Here’s Why I Would Do It Again https://www.travelawaits.com/2874895/why-my-maldives-vacation-was-worth-it/ Thu, 06 Apr 2023 23:05:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2874895 The Maldives
Rebecca Deurlein

It was a grueling 30-hour trek from Houston to Malé, Maldives, but I was determined to make it to the other side of the world. “Nope!” is what most of my friends said when I told them about my coach seats on Turkish Airlines, a 13-hour flight to Istanbul, an 8-hour layover, and another 10 hours to Malé.

It’s true that getting to the Maldives is not for the faint of heart. But the first time you look into the water and see spotted rays and blacktip sharks, or hear the waves lapping at the base of your over-the-water villa, or gently run a finger over the parakeet that has just landed on your shoulder, you’ll forget all about what it took to get there.

So if you can get to the Caribbean in a few hours, that’s great! If you love the beautiful beaches of Florida, wonderful! But if you’re seeking that destination that makes you ooh and aah, the Maldives is it, and I’m here to tell you why.

Chef in The Maldives
The chefs prepare traditional Maldivian dishes with an eye toward fresh seafood, fruits, and vegetables. Beach barbecues are next-level with lobster, tuna, and prawns.
Photo credit: Rebecca Deurlein

The Service Will Make You Feel Like a Million Bucks

Arrive at Malé Velana International Airport, easily locate your resort’s welcome deck, and from that moment on, you’re done carrying luggage. Within minutes, your bags are whisked away, and you are guided to your speedboat transfer or the seaplane terminal for the final leg that will take you to your island.

I was on my way to Coco Bodu Hithi, reached easily via a 30-minute speedboat ride. This was a lifesaver after a long flight (the last thing I wanted to do was get on another plane), and the fresh Indian Ocean air did wonders to rejuvenate me. In my own personal “White Lotus” moment, we motored up to the dock, where staff members in uniform smiled and waved. I stepped off the boat, was handed a cool, scented towel, and was greeted with, “Hello, Rebecca, did you have a good trip?” It gave me my first glimpse into the level of service you find in the Maldives, where everyone, it seems, knows your name.

I was assigned (ahem) a personal butler, Gowtham, a kind, gentle spirit who anticipated needs I never knew I had and truly, sincerely just wanted me to be happy. Here at Coco, there is never a sense that the resort staff is less than thrilled to meet your needs. It’s the opposite. Everyone just wants you to have the vacation you want, and it makes them happy to make you happy.

Gowtham was like a genie who appeared before I had a chance to rub my magic lamp. He’d show up as I was emerging from the ocean and offer to carry my snorkeling gear back to my villa. After I ordered wine at dinner on the first night, a bottle of red appeared in my room the next day, along with a 6-pack of beer for my husband. Wearing heels to dinner one night, and with a bit of a walk ahead of me, I was relieved when he pulled up in a golf cart, making me feel like Cinderella in a chariot.

At the end of the week, my husband turned to me and said, “Everyone deserves a Gowtham, even if it’s just for a week.” You know what? He’s right.

The Maldives Beach
Dinner on the beach is an event with personal service, candlelit tables, and a lot of romance.
Photo credit: Rebecca Deurlein

Eating, Drinking, And Wandering Opens Up New Worlds

There are few places you can go where you never see another American, and this is one of them. Sitting at dinner, you’ll hear every language being spoken around you — German, French, Urdu, Swahili, Arabic, and more. I struck up conversations with travelers from the UK, who loved discussing Harry’s new book and American politics. I’ll never forget the Frenchman at the breakfast buffet balancing a plate of toasted bread, ham, and cheese. When I nodded appreciatively at his choice of food, he responded proudly, “Croque monsieur!” Although a stilted way to communicate, it was lovely to vacation among people from all over the world.

We are all familiar with the bar scene at vacation resorts, but in the Maldives, alcohol doesn’t take center stage. Here, you’ll find a hookah bar where visitors puff on sweet-smelling elixirs and gaze out at the turquoise water. As a 100 percent Muslim country, alcohol is not promoted as it is elsewhere. If you want it, by all means, have it, but you won’t see over-imbibers stumbling back to their rooms or late-night party revelers disturbing their neighbors.

Also, the food! Every morning is an adventure — is that brown, fuzzy ball a nut or a fruit? I broke open longan, loquat, and tamarind like little jewels and googled how to eat them. Curries of various types are an option at every meal, served with papadum crackers, along with fresh skipjack tuna, and saagu bondibai, a traditional Maldivian pudding.

Then there is just the vibe, the way you feel when you’re here. This is a place to come and relax, to breathe in the incense that burns in the open-air lobby. To wander among fragrant frangipani to the sounds of the cuckoo birds’ ascending whistles. To marvel at the sparkling phytoplankton that wash up in the night waves, leaving a glowing trail in their wake. To come eye-to-eye with water hens, their stilted gait carving star-shaped footprints in the sand.

The magic of the Maldives is real, and you can only get it here.

An island in The Maldives
A Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu villa peeks out from the jungle with exquisite views of turquoise water and white sand.
Photo credit: Rebecca Deurlein

Easily Visited Multiple Islands

One of the many benefits of staying at Coco Collection Resorts is that they own sister properties on two separate islands. After my week at Coco Bodu Hithi, I caught a seaplane to Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu. The two experiences were nothing alike and I wouldn’t have changed a thing at either. I would have missed out on so much if I had experienced only one island.

At my first resort, I stayed in one of the sprawling over-the-water villas. No matter how many photos I’d seen in advance, nothing could have prepared me for how truly dreamlike they are in person. Coco Bodu Hithi’s villas are as luxe as the rest of the island, with beautiful people in flowing sundresses dining at private, candlelit tables on the beach.  

I didn’t think Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu could match it, and I was glad it didn’t because it had its own unique qualities that I treasured. I stayed in a garden villa with beautiful views and a private pathway to the sea. I showered outside and slept with mosquito netting around my bed. I walked barefoot to dinner, gathered with others to watch the sunset, and with no butler this time, relaxed into the back-to-nature vibe of my second resort.

It may seem like a hassle to move locations midway through your vacation, but I can’t recommend it enough. The best way to do this is to book properties that work together to make your transfers seamless. Coco scheduled everything, picked up my bags, transported them first by boat and then by seaplane, greeted me at my second island, and did it all again when it was time to depart. They even set me up with a tour guide at the airport, who spent the day with me in Malé until my late-night flight.

A dual-island adventure doubles your fun and gives you a change of pace. You will enjoy entirely different snorkeling experiences on each atoll, unique atmospheres, and various types of lodging. 

Pro Tip: The waves under those sexy over-the-water villas can sound like a hurricane at 3 a.m., so light sleepers might prefer the land villas. You decide whether you want to socialize with your fellow travelers or have a private vacation.

Speaking of being a hermit, both Coco properties made me feel like I had the islands to myself. My husband and I snorkeled for two weeks straight without bumping into anyone else. It wasn’t unusual to stroll an empty beach, even though we visited during peak season. We never waited to be seated at a restaurant, stood in a line, or put our towels on a lounge chair to “save it.” All those typical vacation experiences go out the window in the Maldives.

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7 Fantastic Reasons You’ll Fall In Love With Beautiful Almaty, Kazakhstan  https://www.travelawaits.com/2873243/things-to-do-almaty-kazakhstan/ Sat, 01 Apr 2023 00:07:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2873243 Museum of Archaeology
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

Who can point confidently to Kazakhstan, let alone Almaty, on the world map? If you have an inkling that it is in Central Asia, you might have a chance of hitting Kazakhstan. After all, it is nearly a third of the size of the U.S., some five times larger than France. And Almaty, the country’s former capital, lies in the southeast of the country, near the border with Kyrgyzstan.

I have traveled a lot in my life, but the so-called “Stans” in Central Asia have so far completely eluded me, apart from a brief visit to Islamabad in Pakistan, that is. So, this year, my husband and I decided to embark on a few expeditions to the various and practically unknown countries that emerged when the USSR broke up. Having always been fascinated by the ancient Silk Roads that led through this formidable terrain of steppes and mountain ranges, plateaus and deserts, our quest involved experiencing some of the major stops along the routes that used to connect the Far East with Europe.

I found myself in Almaty not long ago and had a fascinating few days exploring this city, formerly known as Alma-Ata. It’s the largest city in Kazakhstan, though no longer its capital (which, since 1997, has been Astana in the north).

Here are some very good reasons to fall in love with Almaty.

Silk Road
The Silk Road Settlement of Talkhiz
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

1. Silk Road Connection

Talkhiz Settlement, Talgar

For the main reason that brought me to Almaty, we head straight to the eastern outskirts of the city, to the small suburb of Talgar. After all, I was searching out the Silk Road connection, and the closest site, a UNESCO-listed Silk Road site, is the ancient settlement of Talkhiz on the edge of Talgar. Here a vast, reconstructed gate allows you entry to the archaeological dig, which highlights roads and buildings of this settlement.

It provided a resting stop along the route and was prosperous between the 8th and 14th centuries, thriving with artisans and craftsmen providing numerous services to the passing merchant travelers, arriving here with their caravans. Appropriately enough, the settlement lies at the foot of a mountain with two smooth humps, nicknamed Camel Mountain by the locals.

Pro Tip: Tourism is still in its infancy in Kazakhstan, and finding tours and guides can be quite hard. I found walking guide Dennis Keen, an American and adoptive Almatian, who guided us not only around Almaty but also took us here. He is full of love for all things Kazakh and a fountain of knowledge.

2. Tian-Shan Mountain Range

Shymbulak Ski Resort

I have to admit that I am a fan of the cold and absolutely adore snow. Some of it may well have to do with the fact that I currently live in the desert, but even when I lived in Germany, I loved wintertime. There is something about snow-capped mountains, skiing, the glaring white snow reflecting the sun, and the fact that you can happily sit outside for lunch despite it being 14 degrees F, that is difficult to beat.

Almaty is one of the few world cities that has a ski resort literally 20 minutes by car from the city center. At Medeu, where you incidentally also find the world’s highest ice rink, you start by getting on one cable car to the first stop at Shymbulak Ski Resort. Here you have the baby slopes and the restaurants with fabulous views. You can get all the way up, by taking two more cable cars, to the Talgar Pass, which lies at 10,500 feet, and the views are breathtaking.

Pro Tip: My husband suffers from altitude sickness, and this three-step approach was perfect for us as we were able to figure out which was his cutting-off point. He felt it at the first stop, got a little worse at the second stop, and was really not happy at the top. If you or your partner suffer, this is a great spot for some experimenting, and hopping back into the cable car to descend to lower altitude if it hits you.

Almaty Hotel
Part of the Silk Road mosaic outside of Hotel Almaty
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

3. The Alma Museum

Almaty Hotel

Alma is the Kazakh word for “apple” and Almaty roughly translates “the place of apples.” And this is truly where apples come from. And tulips, by the way, apologies to the Dutch. Kazakhstan is full of surprises and there are so many things to learn, and the apple connection is one.

This tiny but lovely museum (known as both the Museum of Apples and the Alma Museum) is inside Hotel Almaty. Here you get a bit of the history of apples, which covered the valley before Almaty grew, and which, amazingly, grew to a size of one pound in weight! Family-sized apples. 

While you are in the hotel, pop to the top floor and look down from the balcony. Despite it being only a handful of floors, you can look across Almaty, because in the center, the buildings are very low, allowing a view across to the mountains.

Pro Tip: When you visit the hotel and museum, you’ll be directly across from the opera house, where performances cost a fraction of the price they do back home. And it is an opera, so odds are you can’t understand what they say anyway! 

Ascension Cathedral
The exterior of the Ascension Cathedral
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

4. Green Space

I admit, I was in Almaty in winter, with everything covered in a beautiful layer of snow, but I still appreciated how very green this city is. There are few streets that are not lined with trees on both sides, and it is a nice mix of conifers and deciduous trees, so even in winter, you have greenery. Many of the streets have so-called “walking streets,” where you have cars on either side, but in the middle lies a pedestrianized stretch, the length of the road, lined by trees, and benches, some with art, others, such as Tulebaev Street, with lyrics of songs by the locally revered rockstar Victor Tsoi, as well as his statue, on display. The many trees are watered by an age-old canal system that runs through the city.

Pro Tip: There are parks at every corner, but my favorite was the Panfilov Park within easy walking distance of the opera. Here you find horse rides on the weekends, an ice rink in winter, and the beautiful Ascension Cathedral, also known as Zenkov’s Cathedral — a Russian Orthodox cathedral in cheery yellow with blue-and-white domes.

Central State Museum
The imposing Central State Museum of Kazakhstan
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

5. Museums

The Almaty museum that stands out the most is the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan. It boats grand Soviet architecture and eclectic displays, with the best being the room that explains the amazing cultural diversity found in Kazakhstan.

Pro Tip: Just outside, you’ll find the beautiful Zodiac Fountain by Vladimir S. Tverdokhlebov, who also designed the lovely Silk Road mosaic by the entrance of the Hotel Almaty. It is a mix of western zodiac signs in the basin and golden Chinese zodiac statues with a Kazakh twist. So, for example, the dragon has been changed to a snail. I was not happy, as I am a proud dragon!

While they don’t have websites (or English-language sites), there is also a Museum of Geology, one for musical instruments, and another for transport. But the one that took my breath away, for a reason beyond the exhibits, was the Museum of Archaeology. Inside, you stand under a yurt-like dome, clap your hands, or say “boo,” and the reverberation is quite eery.

6. Cafés

Almaty Old Centre

The spread between the iconic Hotel Kazakhstan and the Opera House is considered Almaty’s city center, and it is marked by plenty of trendy and iconic cafes. There is, for example, the hyper-trendy Julius Café, where you constantly have social media influencers posing outside, and my personal favorite, Nedelka, where the students from the nearby university congregate and the coffee, cake, and atmosphere are wonderful. It is also one of my favorite little buildings in town.

Pro Tip: Pop into Hotel Kazakhstan, the tall icon of the city, for a coffee in the lobby and use that as an excuse to take the lift to Bar Fly on the top floor for amazing views. Or come back later for dinner and drinks.

Note that Almaty is a strange city without a proper inner center, very unlike typical European cities, which usually grow outward from a medieval middle. Sadly, over the last two centuries, Almaty has been hit by three major earthquakes, so there is little ancient history left in the city.

Street art
QZ street art in Almaty
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

7. Street Art

The Medeu District

Wherever I travel, I tend to search out street art. Almaty, while not covered in it as the encouragement of expression in its different forms is still in its infancy here after Russian rule, has a few lovely examples in what could be called the center (see above). There is the balloon art mural near the Archaeological Museum by London artist Fanakapan, which depicts two silver balloons spelling out QZ. As our guide Dennis explained, this celebrates the new way of spelling Qazaqstan. You can also search out and enjoy the giant warrior near Julius Cafe and a few more.

Pro Tip: Dennis has a bit more info on street art on his blog, and was, at the time of our visit, contemplating putting together a street art walk. Check his offerings as you plan your visit.

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Why This Is My Favorite City To Visit In Taiwan https://www.travelawaits.com/2873317/things-to-do-kaohsiung-taiwan/ Tue, 28 Mar 2023 18:23:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2873317 Pingtung Japanese house
Steven Ward

Kaohsiung, Taiwan, is a major port city. It is growing and changing into a destination, along with the other smaller cities in southern Taiwan. New hotels, shopping malls, and public transportation projects are being built. There are so many things to see and do there. It’s my favorite city combining the old buildings and the new hotels, malls, and restaurants to explore. The excellent food will give you a new appreciation for Chinese cuisine.

1. Din Tai Fung 

Famous For Their Handmade Dumplings

One of the best things to eat when in Taiwan is soup dumplings. Din Tai Fung is famous for their handmade dumplings that are steamed to perfection and brought to your table in a bamboo steamer. The original Din Tai Fung is in Taipei. My wife and I have tried Din Tai Fung restaurants in Bangkok, Thailand; Las Vegas, Nevada; Taipei, Taiwan; and Kaohsiung. We agree that the Din Tai Fung in Kaohsiung is as good as the original Taipei restaurant. The dumplings are so tasty that you can eat several orders. Watch the dumplings being made while you wait for a table.

Of course, there are other tasty items on their menu. I particularly liked their beef noodle soup and the excellent green beans. Please make a memorable trip to Din Tai Fung, wherever you find them!

E-DA World
E-DA World is a large amusement, shopping, hotel, and restaurant complex outside of Kaohsiung.
Photo credit: Steven Ward

2. E-DA World Outlet Mall 

E-DA World is the first outlet mall in Taiwan. They have hotels, restaurants, an amusement park, and many stores. I never knew such a place existed. We drove right through the parking area of E-DA World, so I had to stop and get photos and learn more about it.

Pro Tip: The outlet has buses that will pick you up at your hotel and take you to E-DA World. Ask the concierge at your hotel if bus service is available. We stayed at the Kaohsiung Marriott Hotel and saw many E-DA World buses pull up in front to take people shopping! This is a great way to enjoy a day out with the family!

Kaohsiung Harbor
The Kaohsiung Harbor is being transformed into a shopping and foodie destination.
Photo credit: Steven Ward

3. Kaohsiung Harbor

The old warehouse spaces have been renovated and leased to businesses for restaurants and shops. A stroll along the waterfront reveals a new concert hall dedicated to the latest pop music. It’s a gorgeous building you can look at when strolling along the waterfront. Rent a bicycle and travel the pathways all along the water’s edge. The people of Kaohsiung now have parks, shops, and food to enjoy in their leisure time. It’s quite a transformation.

Cijin Island
Rent a bicycle or electric vehicle and drive around Cijin Island. Watch the sunset at the beach with family and friends.
Photo credit: Steven Ward

4. Cijin Island 

Take public transportation to Cijin Island and have a look around. The island is small but big enough to have parks, temples, excellent restaurants, and a slower pace. Rent a bicycle, scooter, or even an electric Thomas the Train (like we did!). Wait for sunset by the beach and enjoy bright red clouds as the day ends. Return on the ferry and watch the motorbikes come roaring off the boat. Many people live on Cijin Island and commute to their workplaces on the ferry. Only motor scooters are allowed on the ferry, and watching them come aboard is a show!

5. Night Markets 

Night markets are trendy. Food vendors usually specialize in one or two food items. Many sellers have taken over the business from their parents, who ran the food stand for years prior. Choose something that looks good and try it! I love the onion pancakes, noodle dishes, pork buns, and fruit drinks. Many of the vendors stay open until they ultimately sell out. Then they go home. They make everything fresh and sell it the same day.

6. 7-Eleven Stores 

The ubiquitous 7-Eleven stores can be found on most streets in Kaohsiung. There are about 6,500 in Taiwan alone. They are more than just convenience stores. They provide services people need in their everyday lives. You can pay your bills, top off your cell phone minutes, buy bus and train tickets, get groceries and household items, and get hot food (noodle bowls, hot dogs, fried chicken, toasted sandwiches, etc). They have machines that make a good latte or cappuccino, too. If you are traveling, you can have your luggage forwarded to your next destination. They also ship packages for you and receive packages from Amazon and other delivery services. 

Pro Tip: If you need help calling a taxi, pop into a 7-Eleven store and ask them to call one for you! We have seen the same level of service at 7-Eleven stores in Japan and Thailand. 

Zuoying
On Lotus Lake, visit the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. Go in through the Dragon’s mouth to avoid bad luck.
Photo credit: Steven Ward

7. The Dragon And Tiger Pagodas

In the Lotus Lake of the Zuoying District, the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas are guarded by a dragon and a tiger. I’m told that you must enter the pagodas by walking through the mouth of the dragon and exiting the pagodas through the mouth of the tiger. Failing to enter and go this way is considered bad luck.

Pro Tip: A visit to Taiwan is best scheduled from November to February. Once March rolls around, the weather becomes hot and humid. Summer months are nearly unbearable, so go when the temperatures are moderate and the weather is good. Airfare is usually lower in winter, too!

Dragon fruit
Dragon fruit for sale in a Kaohsiung fruit market
Photo credit: Steven Ward

8. Fresh Fruit

My wife is crazy about fresh fruit. A lot of that has rubbed off on me. Taiwan has an abundance of really excellent fruit and vegetables. I look forward every day to enjoying fresh fruit and smoothies when visiting any city in Taiwan, but pineapple is my favorite. It is lovely and tastes slightly different than the pineapple we’re used to getting in the United States. While in Kaohsiung, you should also try…

Dragon Fruit  

If you’ve never tried dragon fruit, you are missing out. They look strange outside but are sweet and delicious when you cut them up. Inside are tiny black crunchy seeds that you eat. When buying fruit, I always ask the seller to cut up one or two and put them in a plastic container so we can enjoy them right away. What color do you guess they are inside? Hint: Some are red, and some are white! Quite a contrast with the black seeds.

Papayas 

My first visit to Taiwan was in 1985. Walking through the night market, my wife sat me down for my first papaya and milk drink. I’ve been hooked ever since. It’s not too sweet, which I like. It has a creamy texture like a milkshake. Since then, the only time I can get it is when we go back to Taiwan. I sometimes make it at home, but it doesn’t seem the same. Grab one if you have a chance. They’re perfect and refreshing.

Wax Apples

The wax apple (or water apple, as some call it) is a strange, bell-shaped fruit. It has a softer texture inside than an apple, not as sweet. However, they grow on you. They are a must-try if you get the chance. Ask the seller to cut and package some for the road or lunch. They make an excellent snack while traveling on the train or driving to your destination.

Custard Apples 

The custard apple (sometimes called sugar apple and Buddha’s Head) has white flesh that is sweet and creamy, with large shiny black seeds. Eating it does remind you of custard. I’ve never had anything like it. Another must-try if you see it in the market! Ask them to cut some up for you.

9. People Watching 

Since I do not desire to drive while in Kaohsiung, we take public transportation and taxis. Most people find that the quickest and best transportation is the motor scooter. They are everywhere! They use less gas and are easier to park than a car. No wonder swarming hordes of scooters are lined up at every traffic light. I make a game out of watching for the craziest things being transported on these tiny scooters. This time I saw a family of four on a scooter. I’ve seen as many as two adults and three children riding in traffic on a scooter. 

People carry their groceries, pets, boxes, and bags through the streets on motor scooters. Because of the traffic congestion, a scooter will get you there much faster than a car. Dogs are trained to wait outside on the scooter until the owner returns.

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My 9 Favorite Places To Eat In Taipei https://www.travelawaits.com/2866706/best-restaurants-taipei/ Wed, 08 Mar 2023 19:00:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2866706 Soup dumplings
Artit Wongpradu / Shutterstock.com

As Taiwan reopens to international travelers, it has an opportunity to prove that it is a noteworthy foodie destination. When you think of Asian-based foodie travel, Tokyo, Singapore, and Bangkok are the milestones. From dumplings, kimchi, pad Thai, and rotis to the more exotic Burger King squid-ink burger and deep-fried insects, their popularity has grown due to the countless satisfied diners.

I count myself as a foodie who gravitates more toward street food and mom-and-pop shops. Sweet to savory and spicy to mild, Taiwan’s capital city, Taipei, offered a smorgasbord with the range that I was looking for. Below, I offer my Adventurous Eater’s Guide to Taipei. I had only 84 hours to explore Taiwan, so I had to quickly decide where to eat based on where I saw locals go. 

1. Jhu Jian Taipei Zhongxiao 2nd Branch 

A bit on the pricey side, Jhu Jian Taipei Zhongxiao 2nd Branch is a good introduction to Taipei’s hot-pot foodie culture with its subdued lighting and date-night atmosphere. Although open for lunch, it is the ideal locale to start your evening out or to finish and return to your hotel. If possible, make a reservation. On weekend evenings, you might have to wait for an available table. 

What To Order At Jhu Jian Taipei Zhongxiao 2nd Branch

I chose the popular pork blade shoulder pot with a side of rice. Other popular favorites are the New Zealand lamb shoulder pot and American sous vide top blade sirloin pot. Udon and steamed noodles were other sides that went over well with the diners. 

Mamalia Cookie Talks specializes in various cookies in meticulously designed boxes. The themes run from colors, holidays, and television programs to mythic stories. You can also design your own box full of your favorites after trying a few samples. 

These cookies are so good that I purchased many boxes of them for my friends. My personal favorite is the assortment of hand-made fried cookies. Other popular items are the fragrant chocolate series and natural fruit series. Feel free to try samples and then create your own custom box of treats. 

Zhuan Wei Xiang
The entrance to Zhuan Wei Xiang
Photo credit: Keshler Thibert

3. Zhuan Wei Xiang 

I found this gem while exploring the side streets of the Da’an District. Small and simple with a few seats, it is a warmly lit and unpretentious restaurant. Unfortunately, the staff do not speak English, so prepare to use Google translate to communicate and place an order. 

What To Order At Zhuan Wei Xiang

I was lucky to run into a local who had lived in Manhattan for a few years and he helped me as my translator. He recommended the noodles in a spicy sauce with pork wontons after seeing that I was having difficulty choosing my meal. I dug in and chose to finish it all off with some sour and spicy stewed rice.

Din Tai Fung
Dumping chefs at work in Din Tai Fung
Photo credit: Keshler Thibert

4. Din Tai Fung 

Din Tai Fung has many locations and long lines at all of them, so I had to know what the commotion was about. To say they take food preparation seriously is an understatement. For me, a part of the experience was watching the staff meticulously prepare each dumpling in a kitchen that looked more like a lab. If you visit in the evening, it may be a bit busy, so expect a wait if you would like to dine in rather than carrying out. 

What To Order At Din Tai Fung

The most popular and delicious offerings are the pork xiao long bao, truffle and shrimp siu mai, vegetarian mushroom buns, house special shrimp and pork wontons with house soy sauce, and bitter melon soup with pork spare ribs. My personal favorites were the steamed ground pork and vegetable dumplings.

Karen Teppanyaki Restaurant
The exterior of Karen Teppanyaki Restaurant inside the Taipei 101 Food Court
Photo credit: Keshler Thibert

5. Taipei 101 Food Court 

Taipei 101 offers a panoramic view of the city from its observation decks, a mall, and events hosted on the rooftop, including concerts, as well as one of the fastest elevators in the world (Level 89 in 37 seconds), and the building’s food court rounds out the experience. 

What To Order At Taipei 101’s Food Court

By this point in my exploration, I had to add notches to my belt. As one of my favorite food places in the city, I had to try as many dishes as possible, starting with Karen Teppanyaki. The grilled chicken, oysters, and, in my opinion, anything with garlic, are delicious. Mai Sen pork chops were made with their house sauce and bread crumb-coated entrees. KQ Tea’s wide selection of boba juices and teas are an ideal beverage for any meal.

Pro Tip: Be prepared to spend at least 3 hours here.

6. Burger Talks

If you are in the mood for an American-type creature comfort, then I suggest fast-food Burger Talks. A continuous theme with Taiwanese food is the use of fresh ingredients, house-made sauces, and the exploration of bold tastes. Burgers here range from beef and pork to fish and veggie. Hot dogs, nuggets, and fries are also on the menu.

What To Order At Burger Talks

All three locations have a similar menu, so you are not missing out on anything if you chose one location over the other. The East Coast beef cheeseburger is a popular classic burger. Those looking for something with a little more heat can go for the Ghost Pepper beef cheeseburger. The yakiniku (Japanese roast pork) sandwich is a good go-to for lunch. 

Gongguan Night Market
Meat offerings at the Gongguan Night Market
Photo credit: Keshler Thibert

7. Gongguan Night Market 

Taipei’s Gongguan Night Market is only open for a few hours each evening. It’s conveniently located near the metro station of the same name, which makes it easily accessible. Narrow lanes and a multitude of food stalls appeal to university students. While there, I moved around, exploring and sampling from a number of stations whose names were only in Mandarin. If you don’t mind shopping with your eyes and nose and are ready to dive into the options available, then you will enjoy what’s offered here.

What To Order At Gongguan Night Market

Start at Lan Jia Taiwanese Snack to try a gua bao, which is popular with the local students. Sugarcane Mama is a great place to stop if you have a sweet tooth. Try the signature sugarcane smoothie. Nice Thai is another worthwhile stop if you are craving Thai food. The spicy fried chicken and shrimp cake appetizers are delicious additions to your night feast. 

Taipei Main Station Food Hall
A view of the food hall at Taipei Main Station
Photo credit: Keshler Thibert

8. Taipei Main Station Food Hall

Serving as your portal of entry and exit, the Taipei Main Station is the main stop for the airport line bringing you right into Old Taipei. 

Come early before heading back to Taiwan International (TPE). On the bottom floor is a food hall that gets a mix of school students, elders, and commuters. One of the busiest morning stalls is a simple à la carte breakfast shop that will have you elbow to elbow with other eaters. 

Very simple. You prepare your meal, pay, grab a communal newspaper, and have a seat. People don’t stay long, and the conversations are kept to a minimum. It’s an ideal first or final meal.

What To Order At Taipei Main Station Food Hall

The food section is called Breeze Gourmet Heaven. No matter the time of day, you will find something open with a wide range of options, from a Starbucks to Hongkong Dumplings at Dim Dim Sum and Nitakaken’s Japanese curry. The most popular options are the assorted curry rice with chicken and beef and sukiyaki beef with rice.

End your food tour at French Pastry for one of their tarts. You cannot lose no matter which one — or two — you go with. My favorites were the strawberry cheese tarts, and if you have room, the French caramel brûlée or the matcha white jade.

9. FamilyMart Convenience Stores

This is a Japanese convenience store chain that originally opened in 1993. You will come across quite a number of locations throughout Taipei. Known for its doorbell jingle when you enter, this is where you stop to pick up provisions ranging from grab-and-go bento boxes to alcoholic beverages. 

What To Buy At FamilyMart

Try some of the Famichiki Potato Chips that are often offered in limited-time-only flavors. I went crazy for FamilyMart’s branded juices that had flavors such as grapefruit tea, apple tea, and coffee latte. Overall, my favorite was the mango iced tea, especially after exploring the city. If you are looking for something more substantial, you can grab a MOS Burger on a bao bun.

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Maldives Vs. Seychelles — 7 Differences To Know Before You Visit https://www.travelawaits.com/2865749/maldives-vs-seychelles-key-differences/ Sun, 05 Mar 2023 15:27:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2865749 Anse Source d'Argent beach in Seychelles
fokke baarssen / Shutterstock.com

Both of these Indian Ocean archipelagos are well-worth traveling quite literally halfway around the world. Each one conjures up romantic images of white sandy beaches, palm trees, and turquoise seas. Each one is on many honeymooners’ wish lists, and both are so beautiful, it hurts.

But, there are plenty of differences you should be aware of, ranging from natural settings, choices of things to do, and probably most importantly, if the islands are purely for honeymooners or whether Maldives and Seychelles are also good choices for solo travelers, long-since-coupled partners, or even families.

Having visited both a few times and loving each for different reasons, I have listed the all-important differences between these two dreamy locations.

Overwater bungalows in the Maldives
Overwater bungalows in the Maldives
Photo credit: icemanphotos / Shutterstock.com

1. Location

The Maldives Are Part Of Asia

The Republic of Maldives lies in the Indian Ocean, southwest of Sri Lanka, which in turn lies south of India, some 466 miles south of the mainland. The Maldives is made up of two lines of 26 atolls stretching across the equator. The capital of Malé lies in the south of the North Malé Atoll.

The Seychelles Are Part Of Africa

The Republic of Seychelles also lies in the Indian Ocean, but closer to the African continent, some 1,000 miles off the coast of Kenya. Made up of 115 islands, the main island, with the international airport and the capital of Victoria, is called Mahé, confusingly similar to the Maldivian capital.

La Digue, one of Seychelles's 115 islands in its group
La Digue, one of Seychelles’s 115 islands in its group
Photo credit: Frederick Millett / Shutterstock.com

2. Size And Getting Around

Maldives Has 1,190+ Islands

Flying into the Maldives international airport, you will already appreciate quite how many islands the country is made up of, with countless — over 1,190 — tiny, tiny islands dotted around the ocean. The islands are usually easily circumnavigated on foot within 20 minutes or so, with only the main island of Malé requiring any transportation. Most hotels and resorts in the Maldives are located on their own island, with no towns or other facilities available on the islands. Some have extended their islands, with extra sandbanks or outlying overwater villas, but the islands are small, and the only way to get around is by boat, seaplane, or helicopter. Most resorts offer regular shuttles to the main island.

Seychelles Has 115 Islands

With much fewer islands, but still an impressive amount, island hopping is just as important in Seychelles as in Maldives. Each of the islands is much larger, and they differ from each other in that there are some 40 granite islands lying around the Mahé, while the outer, 90-odd islands are made of coral. This is an important factor to consider because the granite islands are those with the famous, smooth boulders on the beaches. They feature waves that allow surfing, for example, while the coral islands have a house reef, no granite boulders, but are fabulous for scuba diving. Many private resorts offer transfers by small plane, seaplane, or helicopter, while other transit between islands is by private boats or ferries.

Dark skys forming during wet season in the Maldives
Dark skies form during the wet season in the Maldives
Photo credit: Filip Fuxa / Shutterstock.com

3. The Weather

Maldives Lies Across The Equator

Lying within the Tropics, there is little variation in temperatures between seasons, but there are two distinct seasons in the Maldives. The northeast monsoon blows between January and March, making up the dry season, while from mid-May through November, the southwest monsoon marks the wet season. That said, when it rains, it rarely stays rainy for long, but either way, the best time to visit is generally between the monsoons from March–November.

Seychelles Lies South Of The Equator

Like with the Maldives, there is little difference in temperature throughout the year, but here, again, you have two seasons, which differ significantly from those of the Maldives. The northwest monsoon, blowing between November and April, brings rain and humidity, making it feel a lot hotter. The southwest monsoon arrives between May and October and brings cool and dry weather. But “cool” is still a balmy 80-something-degrees Fahrenheit.

Small shops of Victoria, the capital city of Seychelles on the Island of Mahé
Small shops of Victoria, the capital city of Seychelles on the Island of Mahé
Photo credit: 22Images Studio / Shutterstock.com

4. Things To Do

The Maldives’s Islands Are Very Similar

This is where the archipelagos differ the most: The Maldive Islands are all very similar, small, and utterly flat. Yes, there are gorgeous resorts and turquoise water that only screams out to be explored with a snorkel or breathing gear, but as such, the islands do not have very much to offer. All attractions are man-made, as are admittedly all water sports, but there is not much else. You can take day trips to other islands, such as the capital with its fish market (if you are not on one of the outer islands, in which case, that is quite a distance), or neighboring islands where villagers will set up a few stalls with souvenirs, but not much more.

Seychelles Has More Diverse Attractions

The Seychelles Islands are a diverse lot, with islands such as Mahé, having countless resorts, several communities apart from the capital, many different beaches, nature walks, botanical gardens and nature reserves, and a bird watcher’s paradise. There are all the water sports you can find, scuba diving is superb on the coralline as well as on the granite islands, and the capital of Victoria has a colorful market and lovely shops. If you are staying on Mahé, renting a car for a few days is a must-do.

5. The Romance Factor

Maldives Is Pure Couples Romance

This one is difficult because both island nations are breathtakingly beautiful. As I mentioned, just flying over the Maldives makes your heart soar; the tiny yellow islands surrounded by turquoise water are picture-postcard romantic. Every resort island has perfect palm trees, sand spits where private dinners can be set up, and little chapels for the perfect beach wedding. But it is the resorts that make this place so special. From private over-water villas to underwater restaurants, from world-class spas to luxury you can barely comprehend, all in front of a natural setting, it is hard to beat the Maldives when it comes to romance. But, bring the family, or restless souls that can only sit still on the beach or be entertained by sports for so long, and you’ll be pushed away. I know because I drove my mother completely crazy when I first visited in my late teens, despite daily scuba dives.

Seychelles Is For Young, Old(er), Family, And Couples

Backdrops of smooth granite boulders, cheeky coconuts shaped like a well-rounded backside, fraying palm trees, and private island resorts with beaches that have a ‘closed’ sign yet butler service — these are all on offer in Seychelles. The (granite) islands’ background is hilly, gardens are lush, and vistas are amazing. You can book yourself into some private island resorts that are the most luxurious in the world, and nearly every beach location has a wedding venue. Seychelles is luxury and romance pure. But this tiny nation also caters to everybody else. Come solo, stay within a limited budget, be adventurous, or bring the (grand) kids, and you will all be happy and occupied throughout your stay.

Oceanside dining in the Maldives
Oceanside dining in the Maldives
Photo credit: icemanphotos / Shutterstock.com

6. Eat, Drink, And Be Merry

Maldives Is Dominated By Resort Restaurants

There are some superb restaurants and bars in the Maldives, but you are pretty much limited to the island you’re staying on. If you splash out, you can have a choice of restaurants, from fine dining to bar cuisine, and eat seafood, burgers, and everything in between. Seafood, for obvious reasons, is the cuisine of choice here. If you are taking a trip to the main island, you have a choice of local, Indian, and other cheap and authentic restaurants, but you only get this variety on Malé.

Seychelles Has Many Local Eateries

Depending on where you are staying in Seychelles, you can have a similar problem. Choices are limited if you are staying on a private island, however great those choices may be. But stay on one of the larger islands, such as Mahé or Praslin, and you’ll have options. What I loved most about staying on Mahé was renting a car and stopping off at small traditional places and sampling the local cuisine while looking out over the beach. You’ll find pizza shacks, food stalls, fine dining in the hotels, beer gardens, and everything in between. On the larger islands, you can eat cheaply and try something different every day.

7. Sustainability Issues

Maldives Is Under Threat

The Maldives is the lowest-lying country in the world, with the highest spot being around 6 feet above sea level. With global warming and sea levels rising, NASA has anticipated that some 80 percent of the nation’s islands could be uninhabitable and underwater by 2050. The climate change also brings with it coral bleaching that threatens the reefs, while tourism has brought so much waste with it that the islanders are resorting to unsustainable methods to dispose of it. Many resorts are looking carefully at not only reducing the hotels’ and their guests’ footprints but actively playing a role in sustainable tourism. Please think carefully before you book.

Seychelles Is Hugely Biodiverse

While Seychelles’s coral islands face a similar threat of rising water and coral bleaching, the more mountainous granite islands are safer. The republic has long been aware of its incredible natural beauty and importance to the wildlife endemic that most parts of all islands are dedicated nature reserves and tourism is monitored closely. When on Mahé, visit the Biodiversity Centre to learn more.

Related Reading:

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9 Things To Know Before Experiencing Cherry Blossom Season In Japan https://www.travelawaits.com/2486846/cherry-blossom-season-japan/ Thu, 02 Mar 2023 17:03:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/2486846/cherry-blossom-season-japan/ Cherry blossoms over the water atHimeji Castle
Sean Pavone / Shutterstock.com

Cherry blossoms, or sakura, have a special place in Japanese culture. They usher in the arrival of spring, the beginning of the farming season, and a time to congregate with friends and family to enjoy the pleasant weather. Many Japanese hold parties to celebrate hanami, the practice of watching the blossoms and contemplating life.

I visited in April of 2019, just in time to see the cherry blossoms and decide for myself whether they were worth the hype. Spoiler alert: They are. In fact, you could visit Japan just to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom, provided that you know where, when, and how to plan your trip. Here’s everything you need to know about cherry blossom season in Japan.

A Japanese park during cherry blossom season
Photo credit: Crazypharm / Shutterstock.com

1. Peak Season Is Late January Through Early May

Booking your trip for optimal cherry blossom viewing will require some planning since sakura season starts early in southern Japan and then gradually moves north. According to the Japan Meteorological Corporation (JMC), in 2023 “Northern Japan and eastern Japan will see flowering earlier than normal, while western Japan will see flowering at the same level as normal.”

In the south, Okinawa sees its first blooms in late January while Kyushu cities such as Fukuoka will start to see blooms in mid-March. Around Tokyo, the sakura bloom in mid to late March, while the Osaka area sakura trees begin blooming at the end of March. In mid-April, head to Aomori in the Tohoku region to see Ashino Park’s cherry blossoms. Sapporo cherry blossoms are expected to bloom in late April, while other areas of Hokkaido pop in early May.

If you’re planning a trip to a specific city, check the Japan cherry blossom forecast when booking your trip. It has data for cities such as Yokohama, Nagoya, Kumamoto, Kanazawa, Kyoto, and Kagoshima listed by region, including the Shikoku regions (home to Hiroshima) and the Kanto region (home to Tokyo), and more. The first forecasts of the year are typically released in early January.

When in doubt, book a few days later than the expected bloom date. Cherry blossoms only bloom for a week or two, and you’ll want to land in Japan during the peak bloom period when most of the cherry blossom trees are flowering.

Cherry blossom season in Kyoto, Japan.
Cherry blossom season at Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto, Japan
Photo credit: f11photo / Shutterstock.com

2. Different Varieties Bloom At Different Times

Because the cherry blossom season is fairly short, you might miss the peak bloom even if you plan carefully. The good news: Different varieties of cherry blossoms bloom at different times. Late bloomers and early bloomers aren’t too difficult to find, and if you head to an area with a large number of trees, you’ll still have a perfectly pleasant experience.

In Tokyo, for instance, Shinjuku Gyoen has more than 1,000 cherry trees of different varieties, so you’ll see at least some of them blooming for at least a week after the peak bloom. If you miss the bloom in Nagano, you can head to Takato Castle Ruins Park, which has about 1,500 cherry trees.

When in doubt, ask the locals where to go or head to the largest public park you can find. As long as you’re within a week or so of the bloom, you’ll find some cherry trees showing their colors.

Cherry blossoms at night in Tokyo.
Cherry blossoms at night in Tokyo
Photo credit: segawa7 / Shutterstock.com

3. Be Flexible When Booking Your Accommodations

One morning in Tokyo, I started my day with a walk through Shinjuku Gyoen. Rows of beautiful cherry trees waved in the breeze, and I finally felt like the trip was worth the jet lag.

That incredible experience was an accident; I booked the cheapest hotel room I could find, which happened to be a few blocks away from Shinjuku Gyoen. When booking your accommodations, exercise a little more planning than I did. Look for hotels near parks or public transit lines. Japan’s excellent public transportation infrastructure makes the latter fairly easy, but if you’re hoping to stay near a park, you’ll need to do some research.

More importantly, recognize that flexibility is key. You might need to change your flight or your hotel reservations to ensure that you actually arrive in cherry blossom season — a cold snap could delay your trip by a few days — so look for hotels that allow for late changes or cancellations. If your airline offers an add-on that allows you to change your flight for free, pay for it.

Cherry blossoms on Mount Yoshino.
Cherry blossoms on Mount Yoshino
Photo credit: Travel Stock / Shutterstock.com

4. More Than 30,000 Cherry Trees Bloom On Mount Yoshino

Located in Nara Prefecture, Mount Yoshino is one of the most popular spots for cherry blossom seekers. More than 30,000 cherry trees bloom here each spring, covering the mountain in extraordinary color.

This is also a great place to try an onsen, or natural hot spring bath. The nearby town, Yoshinoyama, has quite a few hot spring hotels, and some allow travelers to use their onsen for a small fee. Take a stroll by the mountain, snap a few pictures, and then find a hotel with an onsen where you can relax and reset.

Nakameguro Cherry Blossom Illuminations in Tokyo.
Nakameguro Cherry Blossom Illuminations in Tokyo
Photo credit: akarapong / Shutterstock.com

5. See Nakameguro Cherry Blossom Illuminations Mid-March Through Early April

Tokyo has plenty of beautiful outdoor spaces like Yoyogi Park and Shinjuku Gyoen, and if you head to the capital city, you’ll have plenty of viewing spots to choose from.

However, one of the best places to experience hanami is the Meguro River near Nakameguro. Each year, a small portion of the river is lit with red lanterns; the sakura reflect off the water, creating a truly enchanting sight.

Pro Tip: One of the best cherry blossom spots in Tokyo is Ueno Park, which is home to the Ueno Zoo, museums, and over a thousand cherry trees.

Takato Castle Park in Nagano.
Takato Castle Park in Nagano
Photo credit: Navapon Plodprong / Shutterstock.com

6. Expect Crowds At Takato Castle Park In Nagano

The ruins of Takato Castle in Nagano Prefecture are well worth visiting at any time of year, but they’re truly incredible in spring. Book in advance, since the castle is extremely popular during sakura season owing to the 1,500 blossoming trees that cover the trails.

You’ll also get great views of the ruins, and if you’re interested in Japanese history, you’ll want to stop by the Takioyagura drum tower and the Shintokukan, a former samurai house. There’s even an art museum onsite, so plan on spending quite a bit of time here.

Pro Tip: Takato Castle Park just has the remains of a castle, but Hirosaki Castle Park in the Aomori Prefecture, another popular place for cherry blossom viewing, boasts a three-story castle complete with petal-filled moat and a botanical garden.

Koriyama Castle in Nara, Japan.
Koriyama Castle in Nara, Japan
Photo credit: ESB Professional / Shutterstock.com

7. Some Over-The-Counter Allergy Medicine Is Illegal In Japan

When you’re surrounded by thousands of blossoms, they can certainly irritate your allergies. Of course, you can simply load up on allergy medication before your trip, but be careful. Some allergy medicines — including over-the-counter medications — can’t be brought into Japan legally in large quantities. Check out the U.S. Embassy’s page on the topic before your trip, and be sure to declare any and all medications when passing through customs.

You could also buy over-the-counter products during your trip, but note that they won’t include stimulants like pseudoephedrine, so they may make you drowsy. This Japan Drugstore Guide has an overview of Japanese allergy medications, along with pictures of their packaging (extremely useful if you don’t speak Japanese).

Sakura mochi in Japan.
Sakura mochi, a traditional Japanese confection wrapped with salted cherry leaves
Photo credit: nana77777 / Shutterstock.com

8. Cherry Blossoms Make Sweet Treats

Given that Japan has something of an obsession with cherry blossoms, it should come as no surprise that sakura-flavored desserts are a big deal throughout the country. To truly embrace the spirit of the season (and satisfy your sweet tooth), stop by a bakery and look for items adorned with cherry blossom petals.

If you’re looking to try something you can’t find anywhere else, stop by a café that serves sakura yokan. Yokan is a jelly made from the sweet red azuki bean mixed with honey or sugar. It’s similar to gelatin but much, much more flavorful. Sakura mochi, or sweet rice cakes, are also fairly easy to find during cherry blossom season.

Wrap up your meal with a sakura sake or a sakura tea. Both have a light, fragrant quality to them, though sakura tea is a bit easier to find (and a bit easier to drink, if you’re not a fan of rice wine).

Pro Tip: Be sure to follow proper dining etiquette; try to clean your plate completely, and if you use chopsticks, don’t raise them above your mouth.

Cherry blossom season in Tokyo
Photo credit: f11photo / Shutterstock.com

9. Cherry Trees Have Special Significance In Japanese Culture

Every city will have public celebrations of hanami, including cherry blossom festivals. Regardless of where you head on your trip, you’ll encounter plenty of locals enjoying the sakura season.

For the Japanese, springtime isn’t just a time to enjoy pretty views; it’s a time to think about change and the impermanent nature of life. It’s a bittersweet time; high school students are graduating and leaving for college, the winter is ending, and unlimited possibilities are on the horizon.

To put it another way, sakura season is a time to walk slowly, breathe deeply, and enjoy every moment. It’s a time to stop and smell the flowers, literally. Keep that in mind during your visit, and you’ll see why cherry blossoms are so enchanting — and why they’re such an indispensable part of Japanese culture.

Cherry blossoms and Mount Fuji.
Cherry blossoms at Chureito Pagoda with Mount Fuji in the background
Photo credit: FocusStocker / Shutterstock.com

Pro Tip: How To Get The Best Photos Of Cherry Blossoms

If you’re planning on photographing the trees — and you absolutely should, by the way — you’ll want to turn off the automatic option on your camera or smartphone. Cherry blossoms tend to be light pastel colors, and cameras have trouble distinguishing them from the sky. If the blossoms make up the majority of your shot, it might end up looking underexposed.

Use your camera’s manual exposure mode to change the aperture and shutter-speed settings. Generally speaking, a slower shutter will give you a better result. Consider picking up a tripod to accommodate the slower shutter speeds.

Experiment with different settings, but don’t worry about editing your photos onsite. Try to shoot as much as possible. Remember, you can always edit out the mediocre pictures on your (extremely long) plane ride home.

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9 Incredible Beachfront Resorts To Experience In Thailand https://www.travelawaits.com/2861802/best-beachfront-resorts-thailand/ Sun, 19 Feb 2023 14:36:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2861802 The oceanfront, two-bedroom Villa Kitalay at Kimpton Kitalay Samui on Koh Samui
IHG Hotels & Resorts

A visit to Thailand might include hiking lush mountains, touring ornate temples, and sampling savory street food. But I say a stay in this Southeast Asian country isn’t complete without a stint on its stellar beaches, where accommodations on the turquoise Gulf of Thailand and Andaman Sea range from boutique lodging to private villas to large resorts.

This is by no means a comprehensive list of Thailand’s best beach resorts. Rather, you might consider the highly rated options below to learn more about the variety of oceanfront properties as you plan a trip to the friendly country known as the “Land of Smiles.”

Here, in no particular order, are some incredible beachfront resorts to experience in Thailand.

swimming pool at Kimpton Kitalay Samui on Koh Samui
Thai architecture and stunning centerpiece swimming pool at Kimpton Kitalay Samui on Koh Samui
Photo credit: IHG Hotels & Resorts

1. Kimpton Kitalay Samui

Koh Samui

Opened in January 2022, the Kimpton Kitalay Samui evokes a traditional fishing village with its two-story main building and welcoming dark-wood verandas that encourage gathering among guests. In fact, one of the highlights of a stay at this beachfront resort is a daily complimentary social hour where Thai snacks and drinks are served. Another bright spot that my husband and I thoroughly enjoyed on a hosted visit here: a lavish buffet and a la carte breakfast that’s included in every room rate.

While the Olympic-sized, iridescent-tiled swimming pool is a centerpiece amenity at this 138-room Kimpton resort, spacious villas have their own private pools and some guest rooms have terraces that lead to other swimming pools — plenty of ways to cool off in the tropical heat! Complimentary activities include kayaks and stand-up paddleboards to use on the calm bay off of Choeng Mon Beach.

Aerial view of Soneva Kiri on Koh Kood
Aerial view of Soneva Kiri on Koh Kood
Photo credit: Soneva Kiri

2. Soneva Kiri

Koh Kood

Arrival at Soneva Kiri on the unspoiled island of Koh Kood is via a 90-minute flight from Bangkok aboard the resort’s private Cessna aircraft, which sets the scene for an exclusive and upscale stay in one of 33 villas that range from one to five bedrooms. Whether next to the beach or hidden in the jungle on the hillsides, every villa has a private pool and comes with an electric buggy or bicycles to explore the winding forest paths.

Activities at this island resort include stargazing with the resident astronomer, watching a movie at Cinema Paradiso that floats above a jungle lagoon, snorkeling amid thriving coral, and dining in the treetops with a unique Treepod Dining experience.

Aerial view of Banyan Tree Krabi on the Andaman Sea
Aerial view of Banyan Tree Krabi on the Andaman Sea
Photo credit: Banyan Tree Krabi

3. Banyan Tree Krabi

Krabi

Set on a secluded beach and adjacent to the tropical rainforest of a national park, Banyan Tree Krabi has 72 rooms and suites that all feature private pools. Its location is convenient for trips by boat to pristine Hong Island. Or if you’re feeling adventurous, hike to the top of Dragon Crest Mountain for epic ocean views. The area’s only hydrotherapy facility is found at the resort’s spa; the circuit comprises a steam room, sauna, ice fountain, two plunge pools, and a heated bed, among other relaxing and rejuvenating features.

Stunning sunset at Avani+ Khao Lak Resort on Thailand's southwestern coast
Stunning sunset at Avani+ Khao Lak Resort on Thailand’s southwestern coast
Photo credit: Avani+ Khao Lak Resort

4. Avani+ Khao Lak Resort

Khao Lak

About 60 miles north of the Phuket International Airport, Avani+ Khao Lak Resort is located on the sparkling shores of Thailand’s Andaman Sea. This property has 327 rooms and suites, five dining venues, and four swimming pools. A two-story, staffed kids’ club features age-appropriate play zones and activities for children as young as 4 through the early teen years. There’s also a splash zone and mini slides for young guests.

Active guests appreciate the tricked-out AvaniFit gym with a climbing wall and Thai boxing ring. The AvaniSpa has six treatment rooms in a garden setting for facials and massages, and it offers kids’ services as well.

Light and airy guest room at Cape Kudu Hotel, Koh Yao Noi
Light and airy guest room at Cape Kudu Hotel, Koh Yao Noi
Photo credit: Cape Kudu Hotel, Koh Yao Noi

5. Cape Kudu Hotel, Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi

Koh Yao Noi is in the Andaman Sea between Phuket and Thailand’s Krabi province. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, Cape Kudu Hotel, Koh Yao Noi is a boutique property with 55 light and airy rooms and villas. The hotel has an infinity pool, a small fitness center, and a spa on site. Guests can borrow a bike to cycle around the island, book a snorkel tour or sunset cruise, or take lessons in batik painting, Thai cooking, or Thai boxing (Muay Thai). Previous visitors appreciate the hotel’s low-key vibe, friendly staff, and the property’s stunning views of small islands dotting the blue sea.

Three-bedroom villa with private pool at V Villas Phuket
Three-bedroom villa with private pool at V Villas Phuket
Photo credit: V Villas Phuket

6. V Villas Phuket

Phuket

Thailand’s largest island is home to hundreds of lodging options from budget to luxury. The V Villas Phuket, an elevated seafront luxury resort that opened in 2021, stands out for its panoramic views of the Andaman Sea and exclusive villas immersed in surrounding nature. Each of the private 19 villas has its own pool and the services of a butler.

While the property is set in a hill 125 feet above Ao Yon Bay, guests have access to the beach below, but it requires descending (and then ascending!) a few flights of steps. Your butler can arrange a beachside picnic under an umbrella with a spread of Thai dishes. Evenings bring the perfect opportunity to enjoy cocktails at Akoya Lounge, with 360-degree ocean and night sky views.

oceanfront pool at Rosewood Phuket
Pretty oceanfront pool at Rosewood Phuket
Photo credit: Rosewood Phuket

7. Rosewood Phuket

Phuket

Rosewood Phuket on the southeast side of the island is on a 2,000-foot stretch of beach on exquisite Emerald Bay. Here, the 71 luxury guest rooms set amid natural landscaping are categorized as either pavilions or villas, and all feature private pools and plenty of space — the smallest lodging starts at 1,399 square feet.

The resort offers four dining venues, three swimming pools, and the Rosewood Explorers Kids Club with an indoor play area, an outdoor water playground, and loads of activities that introduce children to Thai culture. Asaya Spa hosts a variety of wellness treatments and services, from meditation and sound therapy to classic Thai massage and sugar scrubs.

Aerial view of SAii Phi Phi Island Village on the Andaman Sea
Aerial view of SAii Phi Phi Island Village on the Andaman Sea
Photo credit: SAii Phi Phi Island Village

8. SAii Phi Phi Island Village

Koh Phi Phi Don

The stunning Phi Phi islands are located in the Andaman Sea and are known for their natural beauty. SAii Phi Phi Island Village sits on the shores of Koh Phi Phi Don, the largest of the archipelago, but still tiny at under 4 square miles. Its accommodations include 189 Thai-style bungalows and 12 hillside pool villas all set amid tropical foliage. Guests can learn about the resort’s efforts to protect the local bamboo sharks and clownfish at the on-site Marine Discovery Centre.

Through the on-property Diving Centre, young guests can get introduced to scuba diving with a “Bubblemaker” course in one of the resort’s swimming pools, while certified divers can head out to the colorful coral reefs with expert dive guides. Other activities include daily yoga and Thai language classes.

Beachfront residences at Aleenta Hua Hin, Thailand
Beachfront residences at Aleenta Hua Hin, Thailand
Photo credit: Aleenta Hua Hin

9. Aleenta Hua Hin Resort & Spa

Hua Hin

On Pak Nam Pran Bay, boutique Aleenta Hua Hin Resort & Spa is a laid-back coastal retreat composed of 25 beachfront suites, residences, and villas. No two TV-free accommodations are the same, and some have alfresco (yet private!) toilets and showers. This area on the Gulf of Thailand is known for its kite surfing, so you might spend your day on the beach watching participants zoom around the bay — or try it yourself with a lesson the resort can arrange. Otherwise, book a treatment at the on-site Ayurah Spa, borrow a bike to cycle along a coastal path, or kick back in the oceanfront infinity pool.

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7 Things I Loved About My First Trip To Thailand https://www.travelawaits.com/2858301/things-to-do-thailand-first-visit/ Sun, 12 Feb 2023 17:36:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2858301 Thai Opener Grand Palace
Peach of Your Thai Guide

After a fabulous first visit to Vietnam in early 2020, my husband and I made it a goal to travel to more Southeast Asian countries with Thailand topping the list. While the pandemic put the kibosh on overseas travel plans for a while, we finagled a 3-week stay in the beautiful country toward the end of 2022.

The focus of our trip together? Rest and relaxation on white-sand beaches after taking in the key sights in the capital city. We started our trip in Bangkok and then spent the bulk of our time on the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan off Thailand’s Southeast Coast.

By no means was this a comprehensive tour of the country; popular Phuket and Chiang Mai were notably absent from our agenda. Still, we scratched the surface, learning a bit about the country’s history and culture while thoroughly enjoying the tropical weather and delicious food (oh, the food!), which left me wanting a return visit to experience more.

Here are seven things I particularly loved about my first trip to Thailand.

Thai Chaweng Beach
We found Chaweng Beach on Koh Samui to be delightfully quiet with a calm bay.
Photo credit: Kara Williams

1. Chaweng Beach

Koh Samui

I’d done my research on Koh Samui, in particular delving into the most recent edition of the detailed and helpful Koh Samui Guide. This island in the Gulf of Thailand is ringed with beaches and I made it a mission to get to as many as possible! We spent time on Lamai Beach, Choeng Mon Beach, and Chaweng Beach, the last being our favorite.

Though Chaweng is Koh Samui’s largest city, and guidebooks warned of crowds, we found the beach here wonderfully quiet — in parts, nearly deserted. Sure, there were some vendors hawking trinkets and the sound of jet ski engines zooming around the bay, but we felt the scene was incredibly relaxing. The water was so warm and calm, it was like swimming in bath water. We were in Thailand in September, just a couple of months after tourism started bouncing back from pandemic shutdowns. Current visitors may find more crowds — and resulting trash left on the beach — as more tourists descend.

Thai coffee canals
A private tour of Bangkok’s canals allowed for authentic experiences, such as purchasing coffee from a vendor on a longtail boat.
Photo credit: Quent Williams

2. Private Tour Of Bangkok

Your Thai Guide

My husband and I aren’t huge fans of group tours, and especially since COVID-19 erupted, we avoid crowds whenever possible. That’s why we opted for a couple of private excursions on our Thailand trip. Sure they cost a bit more than larger group trips, but we found the peace of mind and personalized service worth it.

Your Thai Guide designs customized private tours of Bangkok and beyond. Via an online form, we let the outfitter know what we were interested in doing with a guide, namely touring Bangkok’s famous Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and The Grand Palace. We also loved the idea of taking a boat ride on Bangkok’s historic canals; in the 18th and 19th centuries, a network of narrow waterways was the primary mode of transportation in the city, with most residents living on the water. The company matched us up with a guide who could shepherd us to the sights we wanted to see. 

We embarked on this private tour on our first full day in Bangkok. It was an excellent introduction to the city. Along the way, our guide Peach not only shared relevant information about Bangkok’s history and culture, but she brought us to food stalls, where we dove into all sorts of noodle dishes, satay, and sweet treats she recommended. We didn’t love all of our samples, but we sure appreciated a bilingual local expert ordering some of the typical specialties for us. 

Thai massage prices
Massage storefronts are plentiful in Thailand, and the services are reasonably priced.
Photo credit: Kara Williams

3. Affordable Prices

While we didn’t have a strict budget for our extended stay in Thailand, I always appreciate good value and a great deal. If you want to travel cheaply, Thailand offers multiple ways to do just that. When we visited, one U.S. dollar was worth roughly 36 Thai baht.

Dining

Dining in Thailand can be done quite inexpensively. On touristy Koh San Road in Bangkok, my husband and I ate at a sit-down restaurant and paid only $2.25 each for filling plates of tofu fried rice and pad thai. It’s even cheaper if you buy your rice or noodle dish from a street vendor; then it was about $1.40 a plate. Cold beers were a bit more than $2 a bottle. Even at a restaurant serving western-style breakfasts, we each ordered egg dishes with toast and Thai iced coffees for a total of $17. 

Laundry

Hotels can charge an arm and a leg for laundry service. To save money, we went to neighborhood storefronts, where we had laundry done for just 40 baht a kilogram. That was less than $2 to have half of a tall kitchen bag of clothing washed, dried, and folded.

Massages

A 30-minute foot massage was an inexpensive $4 at streetside day spas around Bangkok. Similarly, massage therapists in shade structures on Koh Samui’s Chaweng Beach offered affordable massages, for example, $8 for a simple “oil massage.” It was $11 if I wanted to upgrade to the coconut oil massage.

Transportation

The hour flight between Bangkok and Koh Samui on Bangkok Airways was a reasonable $110. A 45-minute ride on a clean and efficient ferry between the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan was just $10 each.

Thai and Indian food
Panang and massaman curry dishes served with rice were highlights at Malee Kitchen in Chaweng, Koh Samui.
Photo credit: Kara Williams

4. Delicious Thai Food And International Cuisine

Pork satay, pad thai, panang curry, fried rice, green papaya salad, and mango sticky rice were some of the Thai favorites we ate regularly during our lengthy stay in Thailand. Equally amazing was the Indian food we found at take-out and sit-down restaurants, where we thoroughly enjoyed dishes such as chicken tikka masala, saag paneer, and tofu korma all accompanied by jasmine rice and freshly baked naan. 

Chinese, Japanese, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean specialties were also prevalent — and yummy. When we hankered for something more familiar to our American palates, a trip to Koh Samui’s highly rated The Hungry Wolf, with its delish beef and veggie burgers, was just the ticket. We did not go hungry in Thailand.

Thai Street Market
The Chaweng Night Market caters to locals and visitors with its array of inexpensive food stalls.
Photo credit: Kara Williams

5. Entertaining Night Markets

Street Food And Souvenirs

Also called walking streets or street markets, areas, where dozens of food stalls are set up next to one another, are great places to try all sorts of different items. Servings are generally small and inexpensive — such as $1 for a few dumplings or pieces of sushi. Some night markets — which don’t always take place after the sun goes down — also have booths selling clothing, electronics, souvenirs, and recently legalized marijuana. 

In particular, we were entertained by Khao San Road in Bangkok with its thriving party atmosphere. It comes alive in the evenings with raucous nightclubs and plentiful food stalls. We also loved the Phantip Market with an open-air food court and outdoor stalls on Koh Phangan. We ate here each of the three nights we spent on that island just so we could enjoy the variety of inexpensive, international dishes.

Thai taxi
A typical taxi on Koh Phangan.
Photo credit: Kara Williams

6. Convenient Transportation

Scooter rentals are plentiful in Thailand, but I was too nervous to drive or ride one on the busy boulevards of Bangkok or curvy, narrow island roads. They’re a popular, inexpensive mode of transportation for locals and tourists, but not for me. Similarly, we could have rented a car to get around, but we decided to let resident experts do the job for us. 

In Bangkok, we used the ride-sharing Grab app to ferry us among sightseeing destinations when we explored on our own. Lyft and Uber don’t work in Thailand. On Koh Samui, we were able to hail taxis on the street. Koh Phangan provided the most entertaining mode of transport: trucks that had been retrofitted with benches in the bed and hard tall(ish) covers. We hailed these on the street or had our hotel call one for us, and often found ourselves sharing the benches with others on their way to the same place.

Villa Pool Library
Private pool deck just for villa guests at The Library on Koh Samui.
Photo credit: Kara Williams

7. Affordable Accommodations

Hostels To Villas

Thailand accommodations range from backpacker lodging to urban upscale high-rises to beachfront five-star spa resorts. We weren’t interested in sharing dorm rooms with other travelers, so we bypassed the hostels that go for as low as $6 a night in Bangkok. Instead, we searched for a mix of moderately priced and luxury properties that were still much less expensive than prices we’d pay, for example, for the equivalent city-center hotels in major cities like New York or Paris or beachfront accommodations in French Polynesia or Hawaii.

In Bangkok, we stayed in the high-rise Villa De Khaosan for an incredibly reasonable $40 a night. It’s located around the corner from touristy Khao San Road and within 15 minutes walking distance of The Grand Palace. More expensive was Baan Manali Resort on Koh Phangan, where we paid $74 nightly for a freestanding bungalow surrounded by lush foliage that felt like something out of Gilligan’s Island (I loved it). 

Our splurge was a four-night stay in a Secret Pool Villa at The Library in Chaweng, Koh Samui. Here, for $300 nightly we had a ridiculous 2,400 square feet of space with not only a massive 11-foot-wide bed but our own leafy courtyard and pool. We also had access to a villa-only swimming pool and deck, where we set up camp most afternoons to relax on comfy cushions under umbrellas. A generous breakfast was included in the room rate at this contemporary, book-themed hotel — a fine, fitting end to our delightful stay in Thailand.

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5 Reasons To Visit Japan During Plum Blossom Season https://www.travelawaits.com/2847953/best-things-to-do-japan-during-plum-blossom-season/ Wed, 11 Jan 2023 14:11:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2847953 Osaka Castle from the plum grove in the surrounding park.
Denise Stephens

Cherry blossoms are a symbol of spring, and the season attracts thousands of visitors to Japan each year to see blossoming trees surrounding castles and temples and to walk under masses of pink petals in parks. With all the attention given to cherry blossoms, visitors often don’t know about Japan’s plum blossoms — which are just as beautiful. They are the first sign of spring, flowering earlier than cherry blossoms.

Plum blossoms have a long history in Japan from when they were introduced from China centuries ago. They traditionally symbolize good fortune and were planted around shrines to ward off evil. The plum blossom has been featured in traditional Japanese paintings, and the five round petals of the plum blossom are a popular motif that appears in decorative art.

After their introduction to Japan, different plum varieties developed with flowers ranging from white to deep pink. This range of colors creates spectacular displays in parks and gardens around Japan.

Although the cherry blossom season is better known to international visitors, I enjoyed visiting Japan during the plum blossom season. There are several reasons why the plum blossom season is a rewarding time to visit Japan.

plum orchard at Kitano Tenmangu shrine
The plum orchard at Kitano Tenmangu shrine has blossoms in shades ranging from white to deep pink.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

1. Beat The Crowds

Cherry blossom season can be hectic in the popular tourist destinations of Tokyo and Kyoto, as domestic and international tourists throng prime viewing spots. Plum blossoms flower from mid-February to mid-March, earlier than cherry blossoms which flower from mid-March to mid-April. This means it’s shoulder season in terms of travel costs and crowds. Hotels are at their most expensive during cherry blossom season and get booked out fast. Earlier in spring, you’ll have a greater choice of accommodation at a more reasonable cost and you can enjoy beautiful plum blossoms without being overcrowded.

Pro Tip: The weather is still a bit chilly early in spring and viewing plum blossoms means spending a lot of time outdoors, so be prepared with a warm jacket. The days are generally fine with blue skies at this time of year, but there may be an occasional shower.

2. Fragrant Flowers

The sweet fragrance of plum blossom drifts through plum orchards during blossom season, adding to the pleasure of strolling through the trees. You may even smell the blossoms before you see the trees. Although plum blossoms and cherry blossoms look similar with masses of pink flowers, cherry blossoms lack fragrance.

Some of the larger plum blossom spots have seating areas with tea and snack stands. These are great for a rest break where you can enjoy the fragrance while looking at the blossoms.

Plum bonsai exhibition at Yushima Tenmangu Shrine in Bunkyo City, Tokyo, Japan
Plum bonsai exhibitions are often held during plum blossom season, like this one at Yushima Tenmangu Shrine.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

3. Bonsai

Plum bonsai look so cute with full-sized flowers massed on gnarled branches. The miniaturized trees are only about 15 to 20 inches high and are carefully trained into artistic shapes. This process takes a long time, with some trees hundreds of years old, but it results in some amazingly beautiful bonsai.

I have come across bonsai exhibitions as part of plum blossom festivals at shrines and in parks. If you want to be certain of seeing plum bonsai, another option is to visit the Omiya Bonsai Art Museum near Tokyo. Here you can see displays of seasonal bonsai and learn about the techniques behind this art form.

Pro Tip: The recommended way to view a bonsai is to look at the roots first, then upwards to the trunk, and finally the branches, foliage, and flowers.

4. Seasonal Souvenirs

Every year, stores sell cherry blossom season limited edition items as varied as Pocky candy and Citizen watches. International brands also get into the spirit of the season with Lindt selling cherry blossom chocolate and Starbucks offering themed tumblers and drink flasks, exclusive to their stores in Japan. The limited edition goods are typically available from early spring onwards, so you will get an excellent selection of cherry blossom souvenirs to choose from. Very popular items can sell out fast, meaning it is an advantage to be there earlier in spring.

A selection of limited-edition cherry blossom souvenirs that Denise bought during plum blossom season
A selection of limited-edition cherry blossom souvenirs that Denise bought during plum blossom season
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

5. Early Cherry Blossom

If you’ve always dreamed of seeing cherry blossoms in Japan, you will still be able to see this during plum blossom season. Just as there are many varieties of plum blossom, there are many varieties of cherry blossom too. Some bloom very early in the season, in February — around the same time as plum blossoms.

Early cherry blossoms can be found in many large city parks, such as Shinjuku Gyoen and Ueno Park in Tokyo. Often there will be crowds around the trees, as people take selfies surrounded by cherry blossoms.

Pro Tip: While you can often guess which is the early flowering cherry blossom by the crowds around the trees, look closely at the petals to check whether it’s plum or cherry. Plum blossoms have round petals, while cherry blossom petals are oval with a notch at the tip.

Early flowering cherry blossoms in Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo
Early flowering cherry blossoms in Shinjuku Gyoen, Tokyo
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

Best Places To See Plum Blossom

You can see plum blossoms at many parks and historic buildings throughout Japan, but there are some landmark plum blossom spots that are worth making a special trip to see. Hundreds of plum trees massed together are a spectacular sight during blossom season. Here are some of the best places to see plum blossoms.

Kairakuen

A dusting of pink and white spreads across the park, contrasting with the formal clipped shrubs. Kairakuen has over 3,000 plum trees, and the best view is from Kobuntei, a traditional Japanese house in the center of the garden. It’s worth paying the modest entry fee to climb the stairs to the upper floors and look out over the treetops. The tranquil view takes in the garden and nearby Senba Lake, with the city of Mito in the background.

plum trees at Kairakuen
From Kobuntei, there is a lovely view over the plum trees at Kairakuen.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

While there are many beautiful gardens in Japan, there are three gardens acknowledged as the best landscape gardens in Japan. Kairakuen is one of these, and it’s less than 2 hours by train from Tokyo. The garden has year-round appeal, with wisteria, bamboo, azaleas, and other plants, but it is most famous for its plum trees. With over 100 varieties of plums planted in the garden, the blossom season extends from mid-February to late March.

Pro Tip: Kairakuen’s plum blossom festival runs throughout the blossom season with extra events at the weekends. It features cultural performances, food stalls, and evening illuminations. Plum blossom festivals, or ume matsuri in Japanese, are held in other places throughout Japan and it’s worth looking out for them in your travels.

Plum blossoms at Kitano Tenmangu shrine in Kyoto
Plum blossoms at Kitano Tenmangu shrine in Kyoto
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

Kitano Tenmangu Shrine

Kyoto’s Kitano Tenmangu shrine is an impressive sight, with its historic buildings ornamented with vivid gold and vermilion details. It’s often busy with worshippers who’ve come to pray, clapping their hands and ringing the shrine bells to get the attention of the shrine’s deities. Plum trees are dotted throughout the grounds, adding even more color when they bloom.

Walking to the rear of the shrine brings you to the most spectacular sight. From the top of a hill, you look down onto an orchard of 1,500 plum trees and then follow a path downhill to walk among the trees. There is an entry charge for the orchard which includes green tea and a Japanese sweet, so you can rest in the orchard for a while to enjoy the blossom.

Tenmangu shrines in other cities throughout Japan all feature plum trees, which are traditionally associated with the god Tenjin. Yushima Tenmangu in Tokyo and Dazaifu Tenmangu in Fukuoka are also great spots to visit during plum blossom season.

Kitano Tenmangu's plum orchard includes green tea and a sweet
The entry fee for Kitano Tenmangu’s plum orchard includes green tea and a sweet.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

Pro Tip: On February 25 every year, Kitano Tenmangu holds an event called Baikasai, where local geisha apprentices perform a tea ceremony that the public can attend. Even if you don’t manage to get the highly sought-after tickets, you can see the geisha arriving at the shrine before the ceremony starts at 10 a.m. They are dressed in beautiful kimonos with elaborate plum-themed hair ornaments.

Osaka Castle Park

A traditional white castle framed by pink blossoms is an iconic image of Japan, and Osaka Castle is a well-known cherry blossom spot with its pristine white walls rising above the park. On the other side of the castle, the plum grove lies between the inner and outer moats. More than 1,200 trees start blooming from early spring onwards, creating that iconic image of a castle surrounded by blossoms, but in shades ranging from white to deep pink.

Unlike the cherry blossom garden, entry to the plum grove is free. It’s also possible to visit the museum inside the castle or take a boat trip along the moat, both requiring an entry charge. Osaka Castle Park is easily reached by public transit, with flat paths from Osaka Castle Park Station leading to the plum blossom grove. Refreshments are available in the plum grove during blossom season, so you can buy a snack and sit for a while to enjoy the plum blossoms.

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9 Beautiful Lesser-Known Spots In Asia To Visit In 2023 https://www.travelawaits.com/2838780/best-places-to-travel-asia-2023/ Tue, 03 Jan 2023 17:07:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2838780 island in Thailand
lemaret pierrick / Shutterstock.com

Now that Eastern countries such as Japan are open to tourists again, many travelers are looking for Asian destination inspiration. Below, TravelAwaits writers recommend beautiful, lesser-known, quaint towns to visit this year. Not all are unheard of — one is a tiny nation and another is the capital of Laos — but all are worth considering for 2023.

mosque with round golden roof on the water with an intrically carved boat out front
The Omar Mosque
Photo credit: Carol Colborn

1. Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei

Brunei is a tiny nation on the island of Borneo, but its extensive petroleum and natural gas fields make it the 10th wealthiest country in the world. Its opulent capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, is home to a gigantic mosque, Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque which features 29 golden domes. It was built in the late ’80s/early ’90s for the 29th Sultan of Brunei. Carol Colborn recommends going at night to see the 29 golden domes and four terrazzo minarets light up like a golden flame.

Built for Hassanal Bolkiah’s late father and predecessor, Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque “features a 3.5-million-piece glass mosaic on the gold leaf covering the main dome and a 172-foot minaret, making it one of the tallest buildings in Brunei,” according to Colborn. A replica of a 16th-century sultan’s barge sits in the man-made lagoon that surrounds the mosque. According to The Brunei Times, “The mosque used many of the world’s most elegant materials, including marble from Italy, granite from Shanghai, stained glass and chandeliers weighing four tons and two tons from England, and handmade carpets from Belgium and Saudi Arabia.”

Colborn also recommends visiting Kampong Ayer near Bandar Seri Begawan’s city center. Nicknamed the Venice of the East, Kampong Ayer is made up of upwards of 38 stilt villages that house about 13,000 people. Houses, schools, and mosques standing on stilts above the Brunei River are a sight to behold.

Check out the Sultan’s lavish gifts at the Royal Regalia Museum. His official residence, the Istana, is more than four times the size of the Palace of Versailles. So different from his father’s modest home, it even has its own airport terminal! For your own luxe accommodations, look no further than The Empire Brunei by the sea.

a Chine woman dresses in red carries a red rope with a man
A faux wedding in the center of 14th Century Dangjiang Village in southern China.
Photo credit: Ann Bush

2. Dangjiang, China

Nestled in a quiet farming community near the Yellow River, the beautifully preserved 14th-century village of Dangjiang is a sight to see according to Ann Bush. A minibus and taxi are both economical options for the 20-minute drive north from Hancheng.

More than 125 bleak-gray-rock courtyard buildings dot the mountainside, punctuated by ornate, bright red lanterns, banners, and ribbons that adorn ancient hand-carved wooden doors, a water system, and elaborate statutes.

When Bush visited, she was privy to a faux traditional wedding ceremony. A guide explained the process to tourists as “the place came alive with musicians, dancers, and attendants flowing through the cobblestone streets,” she recalls.

Afterward, she wandered into a courtyard, where she came upon traditional artists hand-painting delicate porcelain flowers. She also saw a building where village elders meet, with an elaborate golden door and furniture.

Japanese hot spring building
Shibu Onsen has 9 hot spring baths, and soaking in these is a popular evening activity.
Photo credit: Denise Stephens

3. Shibu Onsen, Japan

If seeing Japan’s spa-loving snow monkeys isn’t on your bucket list yet, Denise Stephens says it should be! She suggests staying in the charming old hot spring town of Shibu Onsen, which is just a few minutes from Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park. Here, you can watch wild monkeys frolic in the snow during the winter months and soak in their own hot spring pool.

If the hot springs appeal to the primates in your party, relax in Shibu Onsen’s nine hot spring baths. Stephens says local inns provide their guests with yukata, which is a casual kimono, to wear while going from bath to bath.

“In the evening light, it’s easy to imagine yourself back in old-time Japan with all the yukata-clad people strolling along the streets,” Stephens says. She also suggests trying traditional Japanese snacks from one of the old-fashioned shops, or perhaps an onsen egg, soft-boiled in hot spring water.

Japanese macaque cuddling her baby at Jigokudani Monkey Park
Japanese macaque cuddling her baby at Jigokudani Monkey Park
Photo credit: Teresa Louise Otto

4. Yudanaka, Japan

“Even though it’s a short train ride from Nagano, Yudanaka, Japan, is off the beaten path,” Teresa Otto tells us. “The ride is scenic, too,” she says, “with views of traditional homes, tidy orchards, and the majestic Japanese Alps.”

Family-run onsens (inns with hot spring-fed pools) invite guests to relax and unwind. If you can tear yourself away from soaking in these private pools, you’ll find quaint shops, craftsmen’s studios, historic temples, and delicious fresh food served in mom-and-pop restaurants. When you’re strolling through town and need a pick-me-up, you’ll find an outdoor hot spring-fed foot bath near the visitor center.

Japanese macaques enjoy the hot springs, too. Along the wooded trail leading to Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, you’ll see the macaques in their native habitat. The park’s monkeys-only pool attracts macaques of all ages. Macaque moms with babies on their backs, rambunctious teenagers, and tolerant elders all gather to soak and bask in the sun.

cloudy day at the beach
Beautiful Ama Beach
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

5. Zamami Village, Zamami Island, Japan

Joan Sherman calls the little-known Zamami Village on the beautiful tropical island of Zamami the “best-kept secret” of Japan. From Naha, Okinawa, take the high-speed ferry 45 minutes west to the Zamami Village harbor. Rent a car or bike to get around the island.

Enjoy the breathtaking views from the island’s plethora of observatories. Sherman suggests renting snorkeling gear and checking out the two beaches nearby. Furuzamami Beach to the east is more popular than Ama Beach to the west. From January to April, keep an eye out for humpback whales splashing and playing in the warm island waters.

gold monument reaching up to blue sky with white clouds
The golden stupa is the most sacred monument in Laos.
Photo credit: Carol Colborn

6. Vientiane, Laos

Nearly three-quarters of Southeast Asia’s only landlocked country, Laos, is covered in mountains. Its capital, Vientiane, is nestled between mountains and the Mekong River, which separates it from Thailand. Vientiane was the former administrative center during French rule and “highlights the fusion of European and Asian cultures,” according to Carol Colborn. She and her husband visited Vientiane instead of going to Luang Prabang, the popular Laotian cultural capital.

The national symbol of Laos, Pha That Luang, can be found near the center of Vientiane. A remarkable architectural marvel, the golden stupa stands 147.6 feet tall from ground to pinnacle. As impressive as it is historic, it is one of the country’s most sacred monuments. Coborn suggests visiting Vientiane in November for the Boun That Luang Festival, an important Buddhist celebration.

Also located in the city center, the Patuxay Monument is somewhat reminiscent of the Arc de Triomphe. It is dedicated to Laotians who fought to gain independence from France. Another Vientiane landmark, Wat Si Saket houses 6,800 tiny Buddha images and seated Buddhas. Wat Ho Phra Keo was built in 1564 to house the Emerald Buddha. Now the majestic temple is more of a museum, displaying Laos religious art.

Home to over 200 religious statues, a 131-foot-high reclining Buddha, and a climbable giant pumpkin that’s three stories tall, Buddha Park lies about half an hour from the city center.

white lighthouse surrounded by palm trees
The Galle Lighthouse
Photo credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

7. Galle, Sri Lanka

Despite Galle’s population of nearly 100,000 residents, it is often overlooked by tourists who head straight to Sri Lanka’s beaches. But Galle is Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey’s favorite spot on the island.

The fortified old town, Galle Fort, was once part of the sea-bound Silk Route. Its ideal location left it with a checkered colonial past. But Galle’s center is now a tiny time capsule of its Portuguese, Dutch, and British history. Narrow lanes are lined with beautiful merchant houses (many of which have been turned into boutique hotels) and many little jewelry stores which sell the island’s mineral riches set in sparkling trinkets.

“One place not to miss is the lighthouse, where Galle’s kids found a perfect jumping-off point into the cooling Indian Ocean waves,” recommends Lemmin-Woolfrey. “Galle is not just famous for its cricket team,” she says, “but also with yoga devotees, holding several yoga retreats every year.”

Hua Hin's 5-mile-long main beach in soft afternoon light
Hua Hin’s 5-mile-long main beach
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

8. Hua Hin, Thailand

Just a few hours south of Bangkok, Hua Hin is a beautiful Gulf of Thailand beachside community. “For the last century, the Thai Royal family has been suitably smitten by its charms,” says Michael Cullen, who tells us their summer palaces are here. Hua Hin’s laid-back feel, authentic Thai character, choice of long, wide, safe beaches, and excellent year-round weather tick all the boxes. Outdoor lovers have an abundance of choices, such as eight golf courses (including two of Asia’s best), plus three nature-filled national parks within a 30-minute drive.

In-the-know international visitors — mainly snowbirds escaping the frigid winters of Canada, the UK, and northern Europe — have discovered Hua Hin. However, mass tourism has yet to catch on, despite all of Hua Hin’s attractions and the international hotels’ glorious resorts. That will change in late 2023 Cullen warns, when the local airport opens to short-haul international flights. A new direct train service from Bangkok is also coming into service then. By this time next year, this coastal holiday haven in Prachuap Khiri Khan could be Thailand’s newest visitor hot spot.

A view of the water from Prachuap Khiri Khan
A view of the water from Prachuap Khiri Khan
Photo credit: Heather Markel

9. Prachuap Khiri Khan, Thailand

A traveler Heather Markel met in Thailand told her about this fishing village south of Bangkok. With promises of a small-town feel and fewer tourists, Markel hopped the public bus from Bangkok. Shuttle services are also available. “I found myself in a wonderful world,” remarks Markel. “Though it’s a small city, there are areas in the center that make it feel like you’re in a village. You can enjoy a walk through the market or a refreshing meal by the waterfront. I was delighted to find only a handful of other tourists when I went.”

Monkeys have taken over the main temple, Wat Thammikaram Worawihan. They may be cute, but they are wild animals, so be careful! “There’s also a wonderful dusky langur colony near the military base, which has phenomenal beaches to lie on,” says Markel. “This is a place where people still take time out to admire sunrise and sunset and offers both fascinating sites and a taste of what family life is like day to day,” she says.

Related Reading:

  1. 3 Meaningful Travel Experiences I Loved In Northern Thailand
  2. 7 Reasons You’ll Love This Remote Tropical Paradise In Okinawa
  3. 6 Fantastic Underwater Adventures To Experience In The Maldives
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My 9 Favorite Experiences On Thailand’s Stunning Koh Samui Island https://www.travelawaits.com/2844359/best-things-to-do-koh-samui/ Thu, 22 Dec 2022 14:07:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2844359 Koh Samui's glorious beaches and crystal clear waters
Michael Cullen

Koh Samui (koh meaning “island”) embodies a tropical island paradise for the 2 million-plus annual visitors. Situated in the Gulf of Thailand, off the lower east coast of the Thai-Malay peninsula, it is the kingdom’s second most popular island destination. And for good reason. 

It has long sandy beaches, inviting turquoise waters, coconut palm-filled lowlands, densely forested mountains, and that year-round tropical climate. Water sports, jungle adventures, entertainment and shopping for all ages, plus spa and wellness for every budget. Add in the famous Thai hospitality and world-renowned cuisine, and Samui has it all.

With the construction of roads on the island in the 1970s, backpackers started flocking here to hang out in beachside bamboo huts enjoying languid island life. Today, Samui’s tropical beach holiday options cater to all with accommodations from simple to high-end international resorts. Notably, the island has retained a more natural tropical feel due to a long-held requirement that buildings be no higher than the tallest coconut palm.

Koh Samui's relaxed beach vibe
Koh Samui’s relaxed beach vibe
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

1. Beautiful Beaches 

Koh Samui, at 13 miles long and 10 wide, is easy to navigate, with a ring road getting you to most corners. With 20-plus beaches around the island, the east and north coasts host the most popular selection.

Chaweng Beach

Chaweng Beach on the central east coast is Samui’s most famous beach, and at 2.25 miles of fine sand and calm waters, its attraction is understandable. By day, sunbeds, friendly beach vendors, swimming, and water sports like jet skiing abound. As the evening arrives, sun loungers make way for fairy lights and lanterns as the beachfront resorts entice diners. 

Lamai Beach

A short drive south is my favorite, Lamai. A gentle crescent-shaped beach just under 1.5 miles long and easily accessed by beachfront roads. Bring your own beach mats or rent a shaded beach chair or cozy bean bag at beachfront restaurants. Lamai is beach bliss with great swimming and a relaxed holiday feel. In the streets behind the beach are casual boutiques, laid-back bars and cafes, and low-key resorts.

Bo Phut Beach

On the island’s central north coast is the family-friendly Bo Phut beach with its coarse golden sands. Bo Phut is also home to Fisherman’s Village Walking Street Market on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday nights, beachside bars and restaurants, and trendy boutiques. 

Many visitors hire motorbikes and spend their days exploring the island’s lesser-known and glorious beaches. 

Snorkeling at Ang Thong Marine National Park
Snorkeling at Ang Thong Marine National Park
Photo credit: 100 Degrees East

2. Ang Thong National Marine Park

Though snorkeling opportunities are available from some of Samui’s beaches and headlands, Ang Thong National Marines Park is the best option for exploring these tropical waters. Situated 17 miles west of Ko Samui, this marine national park comprises 42 islands. Visitors can experience towering limestone cliffs, thick jungles, white sand beaches, waterfalls, hidden coves, and marine lakes. It’s a 35-square-mile area of rich biodiversity.

Activities to expect when on the highly popular day trips to Ang Thong include snorkeling, hiking, sea kayaking, diving, and simply relaxing.

Pro Tip: With numerous tours on offer, I recommend choosing a long-established, safety-first operator who places guests’ comfort and overall tour experience as their top priority. One such company is 100 Degrees East, and we loved our day at Ang Thong with them. Restricting guest numbers to 12 on their 35-foot twin-engine boats means space and comfort. And with a crew-to-guest ratio of 1:3, the staff’s attention was outstanding, in and out of the water. The quality of equipment, snacks, and lunch provided by the English-speaking crew added to the overall experience.

Ko Samui Boat Charter's classic Thai yachts
Ko Samui Boat Charter’s classic Thai yachts
Photo credit: Ko Samui Boat Charter

3. Koh Samui Boat Charter

A collection of islands newly opened to day visitors is visible from the southern end of Samui. You could negotiate with local fishermen to take you to the islands on his long-tail boat, but I recommend an outing on a classic Thai wooden yacht with Ko Samui Boat Charter.

Snorkel the coral reefs off Koh Taen and savor the onboard chef’s freshly prepared Thai-fusion lunch. Visit Koh Rap and feed the resident deer, relax on a secluded beach, loll in the clean, clear waters, or head to the island’s bar for a cooling beverage. The return journey along Samui’s southern coastline provides lasting memories of this tropical paradise.

Befriending rescued elephants at Samui Elephant Sanctuary
Befriending rescued elephants at Samui Elephant Sanctuary
Photo credit: Samui Elephant Sanctuary

4. Samui Elephant Sanctuary

Elephants have long been part of the Kingdom of Siam’s history, leading kings and armies into battles. To this day, Thai people hold the elephant in the highest reverence. Elephants were used in logging Northern Thailand’s teak forests until logging was banned in 1989. Those elephants were then used for trekking and other tourist-related activities. 

Wild elephants continue to be captured, broken, and used for tourism or breeding programs. However, in recent years trends have changed. Additionally, international visitors have moved away from riding and elephant bathing scenarios, where elephants are chained and there for the visitors’ “entertainment.”

Samui Elephant Sanctuary is where rescued elephants are provided with a chains-free home and can live the remainder of their lives being elephants and released from the need to amuse, entertain, or transport people. Ethical sanctuaries like this allow visitors to observe, feed, and be near the elephants while these aging giants live in peace. 

We loved our afternoon making and feeding nutritious snacks to the herd as we wandered with knowledgeable staff around the sanctuary’s bushland, learning about these rescued animals’ sad backstories. Your tour admission fee goes directly to the feed, upkeep, and medical care for the now-retired elephants. This is humanity in action in the best possible way.

Tamarind Springs Forest Spa
Tamarind Springs Forest Spa blending into its natural environment
Photo credit: Tamarind Springs Forest Spa

5. Tamarind Springs Forest Spa

Thailand’s ancient massage and natural therapy traditions are well known, and most international visitors experience this first-hand when traveling in the Land of Smiles. Pampering options seem endless, from the beach and street-side massage parlors to high-end day spas in the island’s hotels and resorts. 

Tamarind Springs Forest Spa is a must-do when looking for therapeutic pampering. Since opening in 1998, it has achieved international recognition, with some heralding it as one of Asia’s most unique and outstanding destination day spas.

Tucked away on a forested hillside in Lamai, Tamarind Springs is a stunningly beautiful green hideaway. The facilities are integrated into the giant granite rock formations native to the site. For example, steam rooms are built between 20-foot tall rocks that have kissed together at their skyward tips, while walkways and plunge pools also utilize the natural granite formations of the site.

Pro Tip: Try the 4-hour Forest Dreaming package. You spend the first hour and a half drifting between the steam caves and plunge pools, which are interspersed with self-administered organic body scrubs. Then comes your choice of massage (2.5 hours) in one of the open-air forest pavilions. Pampering while surrounded and ensconced in nature? Bliss!

X-Quad Samui ATV Tours
X-Quad Samui ATV Tours
Photo credit: X-Quad Samui ATV Tours

6. X-Quad Samui ATV Tours

Getting atop Samui’s highest hills and close to its jungle vegetation, plus experiencing incredible panoramic island vistas and a visit to a hidden waterfall, is what X-Quad Samui ATV Tours promised, and they delivered. 

With a 1.5-hour beginner’s tour and a 4-hour mountain top tour for experienced Quad bikers, anybody 12 years of age and above can experience the more natural side of Samui’s hinterland, with the adventure of Quad biking as a glorious bonus. 

You can pilot your own vehicle or buddy up as we (Quad bike newbies) did. The hilly trails were on wide dirt roads surrounded by green. Attendants at the front and back kept the group together, allowing for a leisurely pace while two “outriders” scooted alongside overseeing Quad bikers.

We 60-something first-time Quad bikers loved this adventure and thoroughly recommend it to those keen to add some more kicks to their holiday.

Chi Samui Beach Club
Chi Samui Beach Club
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

7. Beach Clubs

Beach clubs are much more than restaurants or beach bars with sunbeds. They differentiate themselves by offering guests the experience of enjoying a beach day while combining luxury, comfort, design, music, good food, delicious cocktails, and excellent service. Here are two Samui beach clubs I can personally recommend.

Chi Samui

On the island’s north, Chi Samui sees itself as Samui’s premier beach bar and restaurant, serving modern, fresh cuisine and hand-crafted cocktails. Its 82-foot saltwater infinity pool with a swim-up bar fronts Bangrak Beach. Spend your day lazing on the beanbags, sunbeds, loveseats, and sunloungers, hang out on the swings, or party into the night with the DJ’s vibe. Their new cannabis-infused experiences may add an extra buzz to your day. Open daily from 10 a.m. till late.

Nikki Beach Club

On Samui’s western shoreline — ideal for stunning sunsets — Nikki Beach Club traces its roots to the original Florida beach club of the same name. Now with beach clubs across the Med, Caribbean, Oman, and Miami, Nikki Beach Clubs have been dubbed the “Sexiest Place on Earth.” Guests at Nikki Beach Club Samui can relax on day beds around the pool and by the beach while sipping signature cocktails and dining on Nikki’s globally inspired menu.

Coco Tam’s nightly fire show
Coco Tam’s nightly fire show
Photo credit: Coco Tam’s

8. Coco Tam’s

A day out and about experiencing Samui’s delights is often made complete with well-crafted cocktails on or near the beach. Sun setting, a balmy tropical night descending, friends or loved ones at your side, and attentive staff keeping the drinks flowing. One beachside bar in Bo Phut’s Fishermans Village has turned sunset drinks into a must-do experience. 

Coco Tam’s extends onto the sand each afternoon with rows of large comfy bean bags and low occasional tables. Mixologists turn out the drinks while cool DJ house beats set the relaxed, linger-longer mood. Sunken into your bean bag, toes in the sand is the ideal way to enjoy your sundowners. Stay (or return after dinner) for the nightly fire show.

Seating at Supattra Thai Dining
Seating at Supattra Thai Dining
Photo credit: Supattra Thai Dining

9. Supattra Thai Dining

Many consider Thai cuisine a favorite, and it is recognized accordingly on the international stage. From street-side vendors, local family-run noodle shops, and beachside eateries to upmarket restaurants, it’s all available on Samui. Add to those options cafes and restaurants specializing in international cuisines from Japan to Europe and beyond. 

Given that depth of offering, it’s challenging to create a list of recommended dining. So instead of plowing into a Samui dining list, I want to highlight one local restaurant that was a happy surprise. 

Supattra Thai Dining is a small, unassuming alfresco restaurant in Bangrak, open evenings only from Tuesday through Saturday. Lady Thai Chef Supattra helms the kitchen and produces an ala carte daily blackboard menu focused on the quality fresh seafood and ingredients she has sourced from trusted local suppliers and markets. Partner Thomas, originally from Austria, looks after the service team and has curated an inventive wine list, including several natural, biodynamic Demeter-certified wines.

What To Order At Supattra Thai Dining

Though seafood is dominant, meats and vegetarian dishes are also available. Regularly available signature dishes include blue crab in yellow southern curry with betel leaves and the Australian free-range lamb with massaman curry sauce. Reservations are essential.

Getting There And When To Visit

Samui is Thailand’s second largest island, and it sits in the lower Gulf of Thailand. Surat Thani, with its rail and bus connections and a major regional airport, is its nearest mainland city. Access to the island is easy, either by a 45-minute direct flight from Bangkok or ferry from the mainland port of Donsak in Surat Thani province. 

Samui’s 31-mile ring road makes navigating the island easy, with car and motorbike rentals available for those wanting independence. Taxis and local transport called Songteaw are readily available in all the main tourist areas, and your hotel concierge will quickly arrange one as needed.

Thanks to its year-round tropical climate, you can visit Samui throughout the year. There are both dry and rainy seasons, although there are usually plenty of hot, perfect sunny days, even during the wetter months. Any rainfall usually comes in heavy showers that clear quickly. 

The best (and most popular) time to visit is between December and March when the weather is most settled (72 to 82 degrees), and ocean water visibility is excellent. April to September are the hottest months, with daily averages ranging from 75 to 91 degrees. October to early December sees the most rain, with daily average temperatures around 80 degrees.

Editor’s Note: Planning your trip? Don’t miss Michael’s 3 Meaningful Travel Experiences I Loved In Northern Thailand.

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Why You’ll Love This Tropical Beach Resort Near Okinawa’s Yanbaru Forest https://www.travelawaits.com/2842836/okuma-private-beach-and-resort-hotel-review/ Wed, 21 Dec 2022 20:02:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2842836 Okuma Private Beach & Resort archway
Joan Sherman

The Okuma Private Beach & Resort is a beautiful luxury resort in the northern part of Okinawa, Japan. It’s nestled between Japan’s largest subtropical forest, the Yanbaru Forest, and the East China Sea.

The word yanbaru means “densely forested mountains” and that’s exactly what they are. The Yanbaru Forest’s trees, mangroves, and mountains are a key habitat for rare species of plants and animals, including the curious Okinawa rail (a bird).

Here’s why this beautiful resort is worth a stay.

Entrance to Okuma Private Beach & Resort
Entrance to Okuma Private Beach & Resort
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

1. Idyllic Setting

Most of northern Okinawa is mountainous and forested. This resort’s unique location in Kunigami-son Kunigami-gun makes it beautiful, private, and peaceful. The beach here is everything a beach should be: turquoise waters, soft sands, and endless views.

Pro Tip: We were there in February, which is the off-season (weather in the 60s and 70s Fahrenheit), and the resort was not busy.

The recycled fish sculpture
The recycled fish sculpture
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

2. Manicured Grounds

The grounds are perfectly manicured with fountains and fragrant floral beds of bougainvillea and hibiscus. Many days, the groundskeepers were bustling with improvements to the landscaping, but it never felt intrusive.

As a nod to ecology, the resort has a beautiful fish sculpture made entirely of recycled items. What was a curious piece of art by day was illuminated at night and dramatic against a paneled “waterfall” of blue lights.

The main pool
The main pool
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

3. Great Amenities

The resort has many amenities for the comfort and relaxation of guests. It boasts four pools: a main pool, a lazy river, a pool for the kiddies, and an activity pool. The chapel on the property reminded us that it’s a popular wedding venue. Two gift shops are available for everything from high-end clothing and gift items to basic travel needs and souvenirs. Although we didn’t try them, the seaside sauna and aromatherapy salon are more options for guests. 

4. Exceptional Staff

If I had to describe the staff using one word, it would be “gracious.” In our experience, English didn’t seem to be a universal language among the staff, but the greatest likelihood of finding someone who spoke English was at the front desk. Regardless of linguistic abilities, everyone from housekeeping to restaurant hostesses and gift shop cashiers had the same unmistakable Japanese graciousness. Most everything can be figured out with a smile and patience.

white and pink building behind tree with no leaves
Grand Cottage lodging
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

5. Grand Cottage Lodging

Our Grand Cottage suite featured beds, a sofa, two chairs, a large screen TV, a spacious bathroom with double sinks, a separate water closet, and a separate shower room with a bathtub. The Panpuri brand bath and spa products were wonderful and pampering. This tier of lodging also included valet parking service and personalized check-in.

Pro Tip: Our suite had outlets that worked with our American appliances, so no power converter was needed here.

pink drink in wine glass with appetizer
Happy Hour in the Shiokaze Lounge
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

6. The Shiokaze Lounge

As part of the Grand Cottage package, free access to the Shiokaze Lounge was a big benefit because it’s the hub of many perks, including a bountiful breakfast buffet and morning-to-evening refreshments.

Breakfast Buffet

The breakfast buffet was abundant with plenty of new foods to try, like lychee, Okinawa sweet potato rolls and jam, acerola juice, and soba noodles, as well as more traditional (to Americans) breakfast foods like made-to-order omelets, sausages, sweet bread, pastries, jams, and fruits. The pineapple, grown locally on the island, was especially fresh and delicious.

Refreshments

From mid-morning until well into the evening, Grand Cottage guests enjoy coffee, teas, bottled water, and a variety of juices. In the afternoon, the offerings include a variety of snacks. In the early evening, the happy hour might feature unique appetizers like octopus, but also cheese and crackers, nuts, caprese salads, and bite-sized desserts.

Pro Tip: At happy hour, try the traditional Japanese liquor called awamori. It sounds innocent enough because it’s made of long-grain indica rice and aged in traditional clay pots, but it packs a powerful punch. 

sign in Japaense
Enjoy a family-style setting at Iju restaurant.
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

7. Dining Variety

The resort has six restaurants (five are open year-round and one is open only in summer). We tried Okame, a tapas place, where we ordered six traditional Japanese tapas to taste some local flavors. The other restaurant we tried was Iju. It was a family-style setting with Japanese foods like udon noodles, ramen, and tempura, as well as some American offerings. Overall, we enjoyed the food in Okinawa as we worked on perfecting our use of chopsticks.

Paddleboarding off Okuma Beach
Paddleboarding off Okuma Beach
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

8. Fun Activities

The resort offers a variety of activities including marine sports, eco-tours, field sports, and craft experiences. As an example, we saw guests enjoying stand-up paddleboarding with an instructor off Okuma Beach.

Pro Tip: Some activities are included and some have an additional fee. Be sure to check the link to discover what you’d like to do and learn if a fee is required.

Since we love to bike, we tried the resort’s free two-hour bike rental and laughed and pedaled our way through a few miles of Okuma beyond the resort.

Pro Tip: Be aware that the bikes are sized for people of shorter stature, and we are hearty Midwesterners who are on the tall side. We adjusted the seats as high as they would go, but we still felt a bit cramped. We didn’t go fast or far, so it was never a matter of safety but comfort.

sunset over water with torch in foreground
Another glorious sunset
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

The Stuff Of Dreams

The Okuma Private Beach & Resort is unforgettable. The idyllic setting, beautiful grounds, accommodations, and extras were amazing stuff. One glorious sunset after another. Those are some of the main reasons why Okuma Private Beach & Resort is worth a stay. Nestled between the Yanbaru Forest and the East China Sea, it’s the stuff of dreams.

Pro Tip: The resort offers a shuttle bus from the southern city of Naha to the resort once a day. Reservations are essential.

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13 Warm Places To Visit In February https://www.travelawaits.com/2482827/warm-places-february/ Wed, 21 Dec 2022 18:13:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/2482827/warm-places-february/ Landscape with Candelaria town on Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain
Balate Dorin / Shutterstock.com

If you’re someone whose hometown is at the mercy of a plummeting thermometer in winter, it might be time to start thinking about where you can steal away for a seasonal thaw or enjoy a getaway during the post-New Year’s winter slump.

The Southern Hemisphere, Southeast Asia, and even many regions of the U.S. have fabulous weather in the winter months, so come that February chill, there is no shortage of warm destinations to escape to. Get ready for beautiful beaches, wine al fresco, hiking, and cultural celebrations. We hope this list of the best warm places to visit in February, which includes February highs and lows, helps when planning your winter vacation.

Fort Lauderdale beach in Florida.
Fort Lauderdale Beach
Photo credit: Mia2you / Shutterstock

1. Fort Lauderdale, Florida

High: 78 Degrees

Low: 62 Degrees

Catering to a mature and sophisticated crowd, Fort Lauderdale is one of the premier destinations in Florida for high-end shopping, elegant cocktails, live music, and, of course, the beach. Water is the way of life in the “Venice of America,” dubbed so as it is built on a system of canal-like waterways. This brings in a luxurious yacht vibe, shiny hotels, and A-list restaurants.

Most of the activity hums around Las Olas Boulevard, which is flanked by high-end shopping and dining. Be sure to brunch at Big City Tavern, a local rite of passage. We hear the banana Nutella French toast is to die for.

Pro Tip: Traveling with kids? Disney World and the rest of Orlando’s theme parks can be reached in just a few hours by car.

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Sunset in the Maldives
Maldivian sunsets are breathtakingly magical.
Photo credit: icemanphotos / Shutterstock.com

2. The Maldives

High: 87 Degrees

Low: 80 Degrees

Peppered with lagoons, luxury resorts, overwater bungalows, and sunsets that set the sky on fire, the Maldives are paradise. The best attractions in the Maldives truly are the A-list hotels, which are among the best in the world. One even has its own splurge-worthy underwater restaurant. But visitors will want to begin in the capital, Malé, which is the best place to see local life. Take in the vibrantly colored houses, the aromatic markets, and the culture at the National Museum.

Diving is an obvious attraction in a nation that is made up mostly of ocean space. Feeling adventurous? Try Hammerhead Point in the Rasdhoo Atoll for some of the best hammerhead diving. Rasdhoo Divers is a local dive shop that arranges tours to see the sharks.

Wailua waterfalls in Kauai, Hawaii.
Wailua Falls in Kauai, Hawaii
Photo credit: MNStudio / Shutterstock.com

3. Kauai, Hawaii

High: 72 Degrees

Low: 54 Degrees

For outdoor adventure in a deliciously warm climate, there are few better destinations than the island of Kauai. Definitely not for resort lubbers, Kauai will dazzle anyone who lives for adventure, from helicoptering through emerald valleys and zip-lining through treetops to hiking to gushing waterfalls and zigzagging around imposing cliffs.

Begin your Kauai adventure by setting the scene with a Blue Hawaiian helicopter tour of the Waimea Canyon. Adventurists can also hike the 11-mile Kalalau Trail for an up-close and personal look at the rugged cliffs.

Pro Tip: Permits are required to hike the full trail. For a lower-impact experience, consider taking a dip at Poipu Beach Park or Kalapaki Beach.

Kauai’s natural environment has remained relatively undisturbed. No town surpasses 10,000 people and no building is taller than a coconut tree, which is mandated by law.

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Lion's Head in Cape Town, South Africa.
Lion’s Head in Cape Town, South Africa
Photo credit: Richard Cavalleri / Shutterstock

4. Cape Town, South Africa

High: 84 Degrees

Low: 63 Degrees

When it comes to picking a winter vacation spot, none may be as perfect as Cape Town, South Africa. The weather is particularly appealing, with hot, sunny days and cooler evenings. The end of the holiday season in Cape Town also means kids are back in school and residents are back at work. It will be decidedly less crowded, and flights will likely be cheaper.

The twinkling city, a congruence of culture and cuisine, creeps up the side of the epic and iconic Table Mountain National Park. Cape Town is also a haven for surfers, hikers, mountain bikers, and more. It’s also a beautiful hodgepodge of cultures that blends the area’s traditional African heritage with its Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Hindu influences.

Just outside the city are two of South Africa’s most prominent wine countries: Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, so if you are something of an oenophile, these will be must-visits on a trip to Cape Town.

Hong Kong's Victoria Harbor at night.
Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbor at night
Photo credit: YIUCHEUNG / Shutterstock.com

5. Hong Kong

High: 66 Degrees

Low: 57 Degrees

Hong Kong is a city that hums with magnetic energy. It’s a true melange of culture and can be an incredibly approachable city for travelers who are first-timers in Asia. February is a wonderful time of year to visit this former British colony, with its dry and mild temperatures.

Hong Kong is a cross-section of traditional and modern, where towering skyscrapers rub elbows with ancient temples. Foodies flock to Hong Kong to sample everything from late-night street food to elegant, Michelin-starred meals. It is also a shopping mecca where you can get everything from night market trinkets to custom-tailored suits and dresses.

Hong Kong is also a wonderful destination for active travelers. Away from the apartment buildings and imposing steel structures is a vast network of mountainous national parks and forests veined with hiking trails that open up to impressive views over the city. In fact, 40 percent of Hong Kong is green space. Two of the best places for Hong Kong visitors are Dragon’s Back and Lion Rock Country Park.

Pro Tip: Review the U.S. State Department’s Travel Advisory for Hong Kong when considering travel to the People’s Republic of China (PRC), including the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR).

Garachico in Tenerife, Spain.
Garachico in Tenerife, Spain
Photo credit: Dziewul / Shutterstock.com

6. Tenerife, Spain

High: 69 Degrees

Low: 58 Degrees

The Canary Islands archipelago is made up of seven volcanic islands, the largest and best-known of which is Tenerife. Tenerife is the jewel in the Canary Islands’ crown, known for its white sandy beaches, beautiful resorts, and a laid-back lifestyle, even by Spanish standards. The cuisine and local wine are outstanding, with fresh seafood, tropical fruits, and the garlicky, peppery mojo sauce that accompanies pretty much everything.

Tenerife is dominated by Mount Teide, a volcano that peaks at more than 12,000 feet (the highest peak on Spanish soil) and is popular for hiking, astronomy tours, and spectacular views between the cable car and the summit. Teide National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most naturally beautiful landmarks in the Canary Islands.

green golf course with water and palm trees in front of mountains at sunset
PGA WEST golf course in La Quinta, Greater Palm Springs, California
Photo credit: Isogood_patrick / Shutterstock.com

7. Greater Palm Springs, California

High: 75 Degrees

Low: 48 Degrees

Vacationing in Palm Springs means enjoying the playground for the glitterati of the 1950s and ’60s. Palm Springs has a retro vibe that coexists nicely with the area’s 21st-century luxuries.

February is a wonderful time to visit Palm Springs because the weather is, in a word, perfect. Think cooler temperatures in the morning and warm and sunny conditions during the day. You won’t have to worry about the blazing summer sun. It’s a prime golf location and a haven for campers, specifically in Joshua Tree National Park. There is also camping at Lake Cahuilla, and other activities like fishing, hiking, and horseback riding. Speaking of hiking, La Quinta Cove has a range of hikes that vary in difficulty, all with stunning views across the landscape.

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St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans, Louisiana.
St. Louis Cathedral in New Orleans
Photo credit: Sean Pavone / Shutterstock.com

8. New Orleans, Louisiana

High: 66 Degrees

Low: 47 Degrees

You don’t have to be in the Mardi Gras mood to have fun in New Orleans in February. (Though if it does interest you, it is February 21 in 2023.)

New Orleans is a foodie favorite year-round, with old-school classics (think oyster po’boys) plus elegant and refined fare at haute restaurants like Herbsaint. It’s a city of music and celebration, from the Mardi Gras festivities to Jazz Fest. It truly is one of the great American cities — with a blend of Caribbean, African, and European influences that’s just about as American as it gets.

Stroll through the historic architecture, take a streetcar through the French Quarter, marvel at the stately homes in the Garden District, and listen to the trumpets wailing into the wee hours along Frenchman Street.

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Santa Maria beach in Los Cabos, Mexico.
Santa Maria Beach in Los Cabos
Photo credit: ChavezEd / Shutterstock.com

9. Los Cabos, Mexico

High: 81 Degrees

Low: 61 Degrees

With so many warm weather places to whisk away to in Mexico, it can be almost impossible to choose! Look to Los Cabos this winter. Not only is it an absolutely stunning place where red rock desert meets deep blue sea, but new hotels are opening there left and right.

A couple of hotels that are worth your consideration are the Hard Rock Los Cabos and Nobu Hotel Los Cabos (a joint venture between famous Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa and actor Robert De Niro). Los Cabos is also developing the eastern side of the Baja Peninsula, known as East Cape, and a Four Seasons was opened there.

Los Cabos is an outdoor paradise. While many of the beaches are not suitable for swimming (because of the strong surf), there is jet-skiing, snorkeling, kitesurfing, diving, hiking, and more. Consider a visit to Cabo Pulmo National Park, a heaven for divers and one of the last few remaining boho beach escapes in this part of Baja California.

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Forsyth Fountain in Savannah, Georgia.
Fountain at Forsyth Park in Savannah
Photo credit: f11photo / Shutterstock.com

10. Savannah, Georgia

High: 64 Degrees

Low: 42 Degrees

Sophisticated Southern charm meets a whole lot of American history in this Southern belle of a city. Georgia was the 13th and final British colony, after all. Picture iconic antebellum mansions, oak trees draped in moss, green space, cuisine, and craft breweries. Shall we go on? Savannah is a stunning city known for its delectable soul food, vibrant arts scene (it’s home to the Savannah College of Art and Design), and eerie past. Many of its historic buildings are said to be haunted.

If you love to shop, Savannah is the place for you, especially if your tastes swing boutique. Many of the boutiques in Savannah are devoted to local products. Visit Satchel, which is SCAD graduate–owned and known for its handmade leather goods.

Get a taste of Savannah in a glass by sampling some of its locally brewed beer. Southbound Brewing Company, Coastal Empire Beer Co., and Moon River Brewing Company are just a few to mention.

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Botanical Building at Balboa Park, San Diego
Botanical Building at Balboa Park, San Diego
Photo credit: June Russell-Chamberlin

11. San Diego, California

High: 66 Degrees

Low: 51 Degrees

Sunny southern California beckons snowbirds with average temps in the 60s. It may be too chilly to take a dip in the Pacific, but San Diego still offers plenty of outdoor activities in February, including fascinating walks and hikes. Stroll around Balboa Park’s 1,200 acres of rolling hills, trails, hidden gardens, museums, international cottages, and — with the blessing of a mild, Mediterranean-like climate — outdoor festivals and performances year round. It is also to some of the most gorgeous gardens in the city, as well as the San Diego Zoo.

Watch the sun go down at Sunset Cliffs National Park, explore Pacific Beach, and have a cocktail at the Hotel del Coronado. Fantastic restaurants and craft breweries delight the palate. Cruise up the coast about 20 minutes to La Jolla to see the view from Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve.

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desert sunset at Desert Botanical Garden
Sunset at Desert Botanical Garden
Photo credit: Adam Rodirguez / Desert Botanical Garden

12. Phoenix, Arizona

High: 72 Degrees

Low: 48 Degrees

Known for year-round sunshine and warm temps, Phoenix is the perfect place to while away winter days. The Valley of the Sun offers stunning Sonoran Desert scenery alongside world-class spas and golf courses. February offers wonderful weather for outdoor activities, a highlight being hiking Camelback Mountain.

There are also plenty of things to see and do that do not involve hiking. Highlights include meandering around the Desert Botanical Garden, dining al fresco, exploring nearby national parks, and visiting unique museums.

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aerial view of Virgin islands
St. Thomas on the U.S. Virgin Islands
Photo credit: Kevin Ruck / Shutterstock.com

13. U.S. Virgin Islands

High: 83 Degrees

Low: 74 Degrees

Looking for a tropical island escape that doesn’t require a passport? This group of Caribbean islands is just the ticket! Known for white-sand beaches, crystal-clear waters, coral barrier reefs, and lush green hills, the U.S. Virgin islands encompass St. Croix, St. John, and St. Thomas, among several lesser islands.

Head to St. Thomas for hustle and bustle, nightlife, and shopping; St. Croix for laidback authentic Caribbean culture; and St. John for unspoiled natural beauty. Stay at a luxury resort on St. Thomas and soak up the winter sun at Magens Bay Beach. Each island offers activities ranging from boat tours, kayaking, snorkeling, and other watersports to shopping and dining. Take in the beautiful views by cable car — or zipline for the more adventurous!

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Ready to book your getaway?

Related Reading:

  1. 9 European Towns That Are Better In The Winter Than The Summer
  2. The Perfect 5-Day Oahu, Hawaii Itinerary For Couples
  3. 8 Things We Learned Finding Our Perfect Snowbird Destination
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7 Reasons You’ll Love This Remote Tropical Paradise In Okinawa https://www.travelawaits.com/2831007/things-to-do-zamami-island/ Thu, 17 Nov 2022 17:31:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2831007 Zamami Island in Okinawa, Japan
aindigo / Shutterstock.com

If a remote tropical paradise appeals to you, Zamami Island is a place you’ll love. It’s located in the East China Sea off the Naha coast of Okinawa, Japan, and is known for its pristine sand beaches, clear waters, great water sports, and whale watching. 

Zamami Island (sometimes called Zamamijima) is the second largest of the four inhabited Kerama Islands. The Kerama Islands, along with the many uninhabited islands around them, make up a Japanese national park called Keramashoto National Park. 

The clear waters around Zamami Island are home to coral reefs which make for great snorkeling and diving. You can take a diving or snorkeling tour to explore these “Kerama blue” waters up close (imagine, waters so blue and clear that they get their own adjective).

Hiking on Zamami Island offers expansive views of golden sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs, and neighboring islands. The island’s observatories (observation towers) make it easy to find great lookout points for incredible views of the water and neighboring islands. Seasonally, in winter (January to April), humpback whales migrate south from the Arctic to this area to swim, play, and breed in the calm and temperate waters.

My husband Dean and I visited Okinawa for three weeks, enjoying time with our military son who was stationed there, trying new foods, and relishing many adventures like river hiking to Ta-Taki Falls and our day trip to Zamami Island. 

Here are seven reasons I think you’ll love this remote tropical paradise as much as we did.

Queen Zamami 3 in Naha Harbor, Japan
Stepping onto Queen Zamami 3 in Tomari Port
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

1. The Queen Zamami 3 High-Speed Ferry

The Queen Zamami 3 is a high-speed ferry to Zamami Island. You can purchase tickets for Queen Zamami 3 at Tomari Port in the Naha Harbor. The ferry had plenty of seating; you might want to grab a seat next to the windows to maximize the views as you pass other Kerama Islands on the 45-minute ride from Naha to Zamami Island.

Pro Tip: Be sure to check the ferry schedule in advance since the ferry operates in the East China Sea where storms may arise quickly.

When you arrive at Zamami Harbor and depart the ferry, you’ll see a picturesque view of a small town called Zamami Village, a variety of boats in the harbor, and ascending hills that take you deeper into the island. 

Zamami Island area map in Japan
A map of the Zamami Island area
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

2. Hike Or Bike The Island

There are many ways to enjoy the island. You can rent a car or rent a bike in Zamami Village if you want to cover the entire island. You could also set out on foot.

The hiking is mainly on (rural) roads. It is hilly but I would say it’s more rolling hills than steep. From the harbor, you have your choice of different ways to hike around the island. If you are feeling ambitious, head northeast from the harbor and hike the entire western half of the island counterclockwise to enjoy three of the islands’ observatories (that’s what we did) and end up at a beautiful beach (always a good place to end up). 

Pro Tip: Depending on the time of year you visit, don’t forget to wear a hat, bring sunscreen, and drink plenty of water.

Takatsuki-Yama Observatory in Okinawa, Japan
The view from the Takatsuki-Yama Observatory
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

3. Takatsuki-Yama Observatory

If you choose to hike the western half of the island, you can start at the Zamami Village Tourist Information Center and walk uphill for about half an hour on rural roads through forests and past flowering bushes to get to the Takatsuki-Yama Observatory. 

This observatory is a great place to look east and south and soak in views of Agonoura Bay and the many smaller islands that dot the view. One look here and it’s obvious where the term “Kerama Blue” comes from and why it is so named.

Inazaki Observatory Deck on Zamami Island, Okinawa, Japan
The view from the Inazaki Observatory Deck
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

4. Inazaki Observatory

Zamami is known for migrating whales (in season) and that becomes abundantly clear at the Inazaki Observatory. Typical of all the observatories, this one features great views, but it also offers signage about the 250 whales that have been individually identified in these waters. 

You can read about three whales who are named and described in detail, like this one: “The Mayor is a guy who loves to sing. Once the Mayor takes a dive, he stays underwater for nearly 30 minutes and spends the whole time singing his songs.” 

Pro Tip: If you’re there when the whales are, be sure to bring binoculars for easier spotting.  

Unajinosachi Observatory in Okinawa, Japan
A view leading up to Unajinosachi Observatory
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

5. Unajinosachi Observatory 

Both the approach and departure from the western Unajinosachi Observatory (my favorite) are as beautiful as the views from it. The rolling path out to the observation tower, along with the striated rock and tropical vegetation, make it an exceptional experience.

In winter, when the whales swim in the waters around Zamami, another popular activity is a whale-watching cruise. At the Unajinosachi Observatory, you might see tour boat employees with binoculars, communicating with a whale-watching boat in the harbor to help them locate whales so the customers on their boat can be assured of whale sighting(s). 

Pro Tip: If you are on the island at dusk, this is the place to be. This observatory is nicknamed “The Sunset Observatory.”

The Marilyn Statue on Zamami Island, Okinawa, Japan
A statue of Marilyn, the dog from a local love story on Zamami Island
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

6. Statue Tribute To A Canine Love Story

Along a path on the western side of the island, a local story comes to life when you see the statue of Marilyn, a dog. 

As the story goes, a couple moved from Zamami to the nearby, smaller Aka Island. Their dog, Shiro, apparently had a girlfriend (Marilyn) back on Zamami and swam almost two miles between islands every day to visit her. The statue is a tribute to this canine love story: Marilyn’s statue faces Aka Island, and a corresponding statue of Shiro on Aka faces Zamami.

Ama Beach in Zamami Island, Okinawa, Japan
Waves breaking onto the sand on Ama Beach
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

7. Beautiful Ama Beach

Ama Beach features a beautiful contrast of the dark black rocks with the “Kerama blue” water. The sand is golden and clean. It’s a great place to relax. This beach is also known for green sea turtles who lay their eggs here in season.

Although we didn’t get to the eastern side of the island, the more popular Furuzamami Beach features shallow waters that are clear and full of fish that live among the coral reef, making it a favorite location for those who like to snorkel. 

If you are there to relax and see the beach, walk the shoreline west from the harbor to Ama Beach and enjoy the clear waters and views. 

If you like the beach but want some activity, you can rent snorkeling or diving gear in the shops at the harbor.  

Pro Tip: I’ve read that the road to Furuzamami Beach is very hilly, so keep that in mind if you go there.

These are some of the reasons to visit Zamami Island, a remote tropical island paradise off the coast of Okinawa. The high-speed ferry minimizes the travel time to the island from Naha, the observatories are unique, you have so many choices of how to enjoy the island, there’s a bit of folklore to be found in the Marilyn statue, and the beaches are beautiful. When you go, I’m sure you’ll find many reasons to love it, too.

Pro Tip: If you have time, eat at Marumiya, located near the harbor. It’s a no-frills place with good food and a pleasant atmosphere. We liked their Japanese fried rice, soup, and fresh-squeezed juices.

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4 Things I Learned About Myself While Volunteering In India https://www.travelawaits.com/2822838/things-i-learned-about-myself-volunteering-in-india/ Sun, 06 Nov 2022 21:02:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2822838 Carol and a woman entrepreneur in India.
Carol Stigger

After a satisfying career as communications director for an international charity, I wanted my retirement to reflect my values and my dreams. For weeks, I explored options, then someone suggested I make an equation: values + dreams = ? I boiled values down to two words: “social justice.” Then dreams: “foreign travel.” Now, I had to solve the equation. My friend suggested I list opportunities that would combine working for social justice and foreign travel. She really should get an award.

I had connections with a community development organization in Nagpur, India. The president said he would welcome my volunteer assistance with programs, translation, and grant writing. Plus, the local college would like for me to teach English classes pro bono. The organization committed to providing a room in its three-story, secure facility, meals, and local transportation. The hostel was on the third floor, the office was on the second floor, and an auditorium and dining hall for conferences and events were on the ground floor. I was expecting to “give back,” but I gained far more than I gave to poor families and students in India.

1. I Won’t ‘Settle’ — No Matter What My Age

I had settled into a relationship that seemed ideal for a 60+ woman. He was secure financially and emotionally. He was kind, intelligent, and loved to travel. My India plans revealed the fatal flaw in our relationship. He would take a luxury rail journey through India, but his only involvement in charity work was writing checks. I chose India over him. Now that I am even older, I would not trade my lifestyle for security, companionship, or convenience. My love for adventure trumps my need for a committed relationship.

Two men celebrating Holi by dousing each other in color. India.
Two people celebrating Holi, India’s most colorful holiday celebrated by dousing friends and strangers with colors.
Photo credit: Carol Stigger

2. Making Do With Less Is Not A Sacrifice

I moved from a three-bedroom ranch in suburban Chicago to a cement block hostel in a small town in India. My hosts proudly introduced me to my room, the only one in the hostel with an ensuite bathroom. It had a two-burner stove with no oven. The walls were cement and the floor was cracked linoleum. My bed was so hard I could butcher a water buffalo on it. I had no TV or Wi-Fi. The shower was not enclosed; it simply rained on the entire room including the toilet. At three drops per minute, the shower was simply decoration. Bucket baths in a warm climate are easy and refreshing.

Soon, that one room became my cozy home. Life was easy. I had none of the homeowner headaches that plagued me in Illinois. I reveled in the simplicity of coffee, toast, and local honey in the morning followed by a one-flight-of-stairs commute to the office. After the workday, I unplugged: no TV, radio, or internet. I read more, walked more, and visited with my new friends. They took me to weddings — both Hindu and Christian — temples, festivals, a tiger preserve, the town’s one coffee shop, and lovely parks for picnics.

I had no car and none of the related hassles. The organization’s driver drove me to work related-sites in the office car. For other trips, I rode on the back of a friend’s motor scooter or took a tuk tuk: a three-wheeled motorized rickshaw.

3. I Can Depend On The Kindness Of Strangers

“It’s love gift,” exclaimed Dolly, refusing to take money for my haircut and eyebrow shaping. Vasanti massaged a clay pot of yogurt into my short hair to make it shiny while Vinta made a henna design on my hand. My little room became a spa that afternoon, and my new look was certainly different.

Colleagues gave me inexpensive earrings and bangles as I had left most of my jewelry at home. They also gave flowers, from leis of marigolds to vases of fragrant blossoms. It was Valentine’s Day several times a week. A co-worker’s “mummy” sent me a plate of samosas and another sent homemade sweets. But the greatest kindness was from a man I had never met and will never see again.

Several American men joined me for lunch one day in the facility’s dining hall. They were attending a conference in the building’s auditorium. When they invited me to accompany them on a visit to a mosque, I said “yes.” At the mosque, the gate opened for the men, then slammed shut in my face. I turned around and saw a crowd gathering. People were smiling and shouting questions in a language I did not understand. I did not feel threatened, but the crowd was overwhelming. I saw no way to return to our car through the street teeming with curious people.

The gate opened and an Iman stepped out. He was tall, had a long, grey beard, and was dressed in white. “Woman,” he said. “Where is your husband?”

I ducked my head and lied, “widow,” wondering if “divorced” would get me stoned.

“Where is your father?” he asked.

“Dead,” I said, looking up. His eyes were kind.

“I will be your father,” he said. He opened the gate, locked it behind me, and escorted me across the marble courtyard to a shady spot on a thick white line. Later, I learned this is the line women must not cross. He placed a metal folding chair right on the line, then brought me a glass of water. He vanished. I waited in comfort and peace for the American men who had abandoned me to the curious crowd. They returned excited about the ancient manuscripts they had seen, oblivious to the white line and its meaning.

4. The Difference Between Me And Indian Women Is A Sari

The main task of the organization I worked with is microcredit, also known as microfinance — giving small loans to people, mostly women, to start small businesses. A tea stand beside the road, a treadle sewing machine, kitchen utensils, and basic ingredients for a bakery are just a few of the microbusinesses these women own and operate. 

Microloans, some as low as $25, enable mothers to feed their children nutritious meals and send them to school. As their businesses grow, a mud floor is replaced with cement, a tar paper shack becomes a one-room house, and an impossible dream, such as giving a daughter a dowry, becomes reality.

I was asked to “say a few words” to a group of 100 entrepreneurs who had gathered for a seminar on good business practices. I was at a loss. What could I possibly say to encourage and inspire women whose life experiences were so different from mine? I stepped to the podium with a paper scrawled with platitudes. I looked at the women. Like me, they wanted the best for their children; like me, they worked hard to provide nutritious food and educate their offspring. The glaring difference was that I wore a dress and they wore saris.

After greeting them, the words came like a gift from the universe. I began, “While men are making war, we women are cooking dal and raising children.” The connection was strong. I could see it in their eyes and smiles. I talked about our importance to our families and the world and sensed I was speaking to women everywhere. Most importantly, I was speaking to myself.

I spent four winters volunteering for that organization. I let acquaintances assume that I did it to escape Chicago winters. My family and friends know my reasons were more deeply rooted.

Read more about volunteer opportunities all around the world:

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10 Incredible Experiences In The Philippines, According To A Local https://www.travelawaits.com/2809992/best-things-to-do-philippines-according-to-a-local/ Tue, 04 Oct 2022 14:03:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2809992 Batad rice terraces in Ifugao Province, Luzon Island
R.M. Nunes / Shutterstock.com

Before I migrated to and retired in the U.S. 20 years ago, I lived in the Philippines from the time I was born, all of 54 years. I really do know this archipelago of 7,641 gorgeous islands by heart. It’s organized into three island groups: Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. The archipelago has the fifth longest coastline in the world behind Canada, Norway, Indonesia, and Russia. How can all these islands be best covered?

Along with its five UNESCO World Heritage Sites, here are my suggestions for the best experiences in The Philippines, separated by its three major groups of islands.

Luzon: The Northern Island Group

Luzon is in the north and is the largest and most populous (ranked 15th in the world by area and fourth by population). It includes six other smaller islands. More than half of the country’s population of an estimated 114 million live here.

Metro Manila on Manila Bay
Metro Manila on Manila Bay
Photo credit: Joseph Oropel / Shutterstock.com

1. Metro Manila

Get a flavor of Metro Manila, the cosmopolitan capital complex of 16 cities and towns. I lived in its three prime cities: Manila, Quezon City, and Makati. Choose to stay in the latter; it’s nearest to the Ninoy Aquino International Airport.

It’s a shopper’s paradise. Global brands, Philippine crafts and designs, cheap Chinese goods, and fakes that are so like the originals (especially in Divisoria) give you the best value for your money. Two of the 10 largest shopping malls in the world are in Manila. It’s also a culinary haven. Think of any cuisine and you can get it in the entire budget range. Filipino food is also fast gaining popularity with native Malay, Chinese, Spanish and American influences. You will also love the nightlife. Being at the top of the world’s call center industry, Metro Manila buzzes with activity all day.

WWII war memorial on Corregidor Island
WWII war memorial on Corregidor Island
Photo credit: PixHound / Shutterstock.com

2. Corregidor Island

One of the first places where I took my husband was Corregidor Island at the mouth of Manila Bay. Only one and a half hours by fast hydrofoil from Metro Manila’s reclaimed area, Americans made it an “impregnable fortress” and played a significant role in the invasion and liberation of the Philippines from Japanese forces in WWII.

It’s the best place to relive the Pacific Front. Skeletons of the Mile-long Barracks (the longest single military barracks in the world housing 8,000 soldiers) and the cross-shaped hospital destroyed by the Japanese despite war treaties remind the visitor of the gruesome five-month battle. The Malinta Tunnel, the headquarters of General MacArthur and the seat of the Philippine government at the time, is now an important museum. Many memorials salute the heroism of the American and Filipino soldiers who fought together.

3. The City Of Vigan In Ilocos Sur

North of Manila in the province of Ilocos Sur is the one place in the country, and even Asia, where the 300 years of Spanish rule remains painted in the 17th-century homes preserved as a Heritage Village, undamaged even by war. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, there is St. Paul’s Cathedral, built in 1641, and the Crisologo Museum, the ancestral home of the town patriarchs, depicting life during the Spanish colonial rule. In fact, kalesas, or horse-drawn carriages, still ferry tourists on the narrow-cobbled roads.

Baroque church of Paoay
Baroque church of Paoay in Vigan
Photo credit: hijodeponggol / Shutterstock.com

4. Baroque Churches Of The Philippines 

A group of churches in the Philippines forms a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Three of them are in Luzon: San Agustin Church in Manila, Santa Maria Church in Bulacan, and Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte just after Vigan. The fourth, Miagao Church, is in the Visayan province of Iloilo.  I have not seen Miagao, but am amazed and proud that we have historic sites comparable to some of those in Europe. In serving as the political backbone of Spanish colonial rule, churches were subject to attacks by local revolts. Thus, Philippine baroque architecture appears like fortresses with large imposing buttresses at the sides. It is also a unique interpretation by Chinese and Filipino craftsmen.

Rice terraces of northern Luzon
Rice terraces of northern Luzon
Photo credit: Nguyen Quang Ngoc Tonkin / Shutterstock.com

5. Rice Terraces Of The Mountain Province

Farther up north in the mountains of northern Luzon, there are five clusters of rice terraces in four municipalities of the Mountain Province. Together they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the most intact of those created by the Ifugaos, a minority ethnic group that has lived in the Philippine Cordillera Mountains for more than two thousand years. They are a sight to behold — especially since they reach a higher altitude and are on steeper slopes than the other rice terraces around the world. Made of stone and mud walls, the elaborate old farming system is still maintained cooperatively by the mountain villagers of today.

Mayon Volcano on the island of Luzon
Mayon Volcano on the island of Luzon
Photo credit: Puripat Lertpunyaroj / Shutterstock.com

6. Mayon Volcano

The most beautiful volcano in the Philippines is also its most active; it last erupted in 2019. Mayon Volcano, in the province of Albay in the southeastern part of Luzon, is endowed with a symmetric conical shape that makes it “the most perfect volcanic cone in the world.” Sacred in Philippine mythology, it became the Philippines’ first national park. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, its designation as a World Heritage Site is pending.

7. Palawan

I couldn’t wait to show my husband Palawan. The fifth largest island in the archipelago, it juts out such that it has the westernmost point of the country. It has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites and has consistently stayed on lists of “Top 10 Best Islands in the World.” Even the Iwahig Penal Colony, a “Prison without Walls” fascinates visitors and, of course, the world-class beaches and resorts like El Nido and enchanting islands like Coron and those in Honda Bay.

The first of the World Heritage Sites is the Tubbataha Reef, one of the world’s best dive spots just 150 kilometers off Puerto Princesa, the capital. It’s an atoll reef with a very high density of marine life, featuring a 100-m perpendicular wall and two lagoons. The other is the world’s longest (8.2 kilometers) navigable Underground River, only two and a half hours from Puerto Princesa. A short walk through a green forest inhabited by monkeys and monitor lizards will take you to the phenomenon of the river pouring straight into the sea, set amid the lovely limestone karst mountain landscape outside and the stunning formations inside its deep chambers.  

Barracuda Lake on Paradise Island in Palawan
Barracuda Lake on Paradise Island, Palawan
Photo credit: Simon Dannhauer / Shutterstock.com

Visayas: The Central Island Group

Between the northern and southern island groups, the Visayas is composed of nine islands on the Visayan Sea. In the east are Leyte, Samar, and Siquijor; center: Bohol, Negros Oriental, and Cebu; and west: the provinces in the island of Panay and Negros Occidental. Considered the capital of the Visayas, Cebu City has its own international airport.

Boracay Island in western Visayas
Boracay Island in western Visayas
Photo credit: R.M. Nunes / Shutterstock.com

8. Boracay Island Off Panay Province

Boracay is dubbed the “Party Island.” With an area of only 4 square miles, it’s famously known for wide, white powdery sand beaches, relaxation options, and a bustling nightlife. Just off the northwest coast of Panay in the Western Visayas, it is a favorite venue for corporate celebrations and personal vacations. Just like Palawan, it has stayed on the list of the “Top 10 Best Islands in the World.”

9. Bohol

Bohol in the Central Visayas and nearest Cebu should be, too. It includes 75 minor surrounding islands like Panglao, routinely listed as one of the top ten diving locations in the world. Bohol is also proud of its Chocolate Hills, numerous mounds of brown-colored limestone formations, and the Philippine tarsier, the world’s smallest primate.

Mindanao: The Southern Island Group

Mindanao is the second-largest island after Luzon and the seventh-most populous in the world. It’s the country’s major breadbasket, producing eight of the top ten agricultural exports from the Philippines. It includes the Sulu archipelago which looks like a land bridge to Borneo, Indonesia.

For my first marriage, our honeymoon was at a treehouse in the Zamboanga peninsula adjacent to Sulu. I also took my children to Dakak, a beach resort and pearl farm there. Today, however, both of these provinces are Muslim-controlled and are no longer considered tourist-friendly.

Monastery of Transfiguration in Bukidnon
Monastery of Transfiguration in Bukidnon
Photo credit: Rich Jaro D. Giga / Shutterstock.com

10. Bukidnon

The safest place to visit is the province of Bukidnon. When I was the managing director of a software company, I visited our software installation at the Del Monte Corporation facilities in Camp Philips, one of the world’s largest pineapple plantations. I loved the golf course amid the vast pineapple fields and will not forget the taste of pineapple-fed steaks at the country club. Move over, Wagyu!

Occupying a wide plateau in north-central Mindanao, Bukidnon means “highlander” or “mountain dweller.” Bukidnon is the major producer of rice, corn, pineapples, bananas, and sugarcane, making it the fifth richest province in the Philippines. Mount Dulang-Dulang, the second highest mountain in the country, offers many adventures and the Monastery of Transfiguration is the best for quiet retreats.

If you want to experience world-class diving and beaches, land at the Cebu International Airport and visit the Visayan islands. If you want to explore the rich heritage, culture, and history of the Philippines, go to Luzon. If you want to backpack the whole country, there is a roll-on/roll-off integrated network of highways and ferry routes. Wherever you go, you will be treated by the warmth and hospitality of the Filipino people. Everyone in the customer service chain speaks English or Taglish, an understandable blend of Tagalog and English. So, it should be easy. You will not be disappointed and will see that “It’s more fun in the Philippines.”

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8 Incredible Dining Experiences In The Maldives https://www.travelawaits.com/2805697/best-foods-to-try-in-the-maldives/ Thu, 22 Sep 2022 21:27:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2805697 Anantara Kihavah beach dinner
Anantara Kihavah

Asia’s smallest country, both in population and in land size, the Maldives is a tiny island nation that’s 99 percent water and is famous for powdery, white sand beaches flanked by the turquoise Indian Ocean, overwater villas, vibrant tropical greenery, and some great dive spots.

Let’s not forget romantic candlelight dinners, champagne sunsets, and some truly memorable and unique dining experiences. Be it dinner under the ocean in an exquisite underwater restaurant, a private dinner on the beach with your toes in the sand, or perhaps a table for two on the verandah of your overwater bungalow — these are guaranteed to be dining experiences you’ll never forget.

Maldivian reef fish
Maldivian reef fish
Photo credit: LUX* South Ari Atoll

The Food

The Maldivian archipelago is home not only home to a myriad of tropical islands, white sandy beaches, swaying palm trees, and gin-clear waters that teem with marine life – it also offers some of the most delicious cuisine in the region.

Traditional Maldivian cuisine, also known as Dhivehi cuisine, provides a wonderful variety and unique tastes and flavors, a distinct tang made of mild spiciness, delicate sweetness, and an overall exotic taste, and all prepared using cooking techniques that have been passed down through the generations. This is a cuisine of rich traditional flavors, seasoned in ways that blend Sinhalese, Indian, and Arab influences.

The three pillars of traditional Maldivian cuisine are coconut, fish, and starch. Coconuts, called kurumba in Dhivehi, are grown on every island in the Maldives. The island’s thin topsoil is challenging to farm, except for coconut palms, which are cultivated in great numbers and are such a vital part of the culture and cuisine that the coconut palm has been declared the country’s national tree. Coconut is used in a variety of forms in Maldivian cuisine, from grated and shaved to coconut milk and as oil.

In an ocean-bound island nation, it’s not surprising that fish is the star ingredient of the cuisine — with tuna being the king — and is eaten in all kinds of dishes. Rihaakuru, a thick brown paste made from smoked tuna, that has been boiled for many hours, is eaten daily in practically every Maldivian home, often accompanied by rice (which has to be imported), taro, sweet potato, or breadfruit.

Maldivians also have their own version of curry powder or paste, called lonumirus, which derives its unique flavor from the addition of coconut and pandan, to the more traditional curry spices of cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and cumin.

Fresh fruit in the Maldives
Fresh fruit in the Maldives
Photo credit: LUX* South Ari Atoll

The Experiences

1. Local Dishes

When traveling it’s often easy and tempting to stick to the food you know and are comfortable with. My first breakfast in the Maldives was at JOALI Maldives, and the vast array of options left my head spinning. Whilst the eggs Benedict was tempting, and the array of tropical fruit, juices, and smoothies looked enticing, I decided to try a local Maldivian breakfast specialty: mashuni

Maldivian food revolves around fish, particularly smoked tuna and coconut. Mashuni is a dish made of shredded smoked fish with onion and grated coconut. Served with a fresh-baked roshi (a flatbread similar to Indian/Sri Lankan roti or paratha) it made a very tasty breakfast, and I was glad this was my first experience of local food.

Later in my trip, when staying at Anantara Kihavah Villas, we were treated to a special Maldivian “Dining by Design” dinner. White clothed tables on the beach, glittering lanterns and candles; we sat with our toes in the sand and sampled a selection of local dishes. A salad of local lobster poached in spiced coconut milk, a traditional seafood broth called Kiru Garudiya, followed by some spiced lamb chops, sambal-marinated tuna, and finally a traditional desert Kiru Boakibaa made with coconut milk and ground rice and flavored with aromatic lemongrass, cardamom, cinnamon, and rosewater. An amazing culinary experience.

Floating breakfast at Anantara Kihavah
Floating breakfast at Anantara Kihavah
Photo credit: Sarah Kingdom

2. Floating Breakfast

The morning after our beach dinner, I was woken by a gentle knock on the door. My “floating breakfast” was being delivered. If you think breakfast in bed is decadent, then you really need to try a floating breakfast! In case you’re not familiar with the concept, here’s what you need to know – imagine a fully loaded wicker basket, with bakery items, granola, yogurts, jam, honey, marmalade, fresh fruits, eggs (whichever way you fancy), fruit juice, champagne and more — enough food for two people to kick start their day. All this floating on the surface of your private pool, just a few feet above the ocean. Mouth-watering and picturesque at the same time.

SEA, the underwater restaurant at Anantara Kihavah
SEA, the underwater restaurant at Anantara Kihavah
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

3. Underwater Dining

You’d be excused for thinking it would be hard to outdo a floating breakfast — well, how about breakfast underwater? Anantara Kihavah Villas’ underwater SEA restaurant gives you the opportunity to enjoy great food and an incredible underwater experience at the same time. The glass sides of the octagonal dining room allow diners a stunning view of marine life swimming to and fro, so close and so clear that you feel like you could just about touch them! Imagine feasting on lobster eggs Benedict while submerged beneath the Indian Ocean, or sipping champagne in the company of sea turtles — it’s not every day you can say you ate with the fishes!

Underwater wine cellar at Anantara Kihavah
Underwater wine cellar at Anantara Kihavah
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

4. Underwater Wine Tasting

We were to have another fascinating encounter in the world’s first underwater wine cellar and restaurant. This time, an underwater wine tasting with the resort’s knowledgeable and friendly sommelier. Arun talked us through an array of wines, telling us about their history, their profiles, their bouquets, and the way they suited and enhanced various dishes and cuisines. He told us how submerging champagne in the underwater cellar subtly altered the flavors of the wine, and how for every month of submersion the wine aged the equivalent of 5 years.

He also told us about guests who, perhaps coming for a special occasion, can and do request bottles of Dom Pérignon be submerged, usually several months in advance of their arrival. I learned a lot but must confess that it’s rather easy to be distracted when a reef shark, sea turtle, or bunch of eagle rays are swimming past the window!

SKY bar and observatory at Anantara Kihavah
SKY bar and observatory at Anantara Kihavah
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

5. Dining Under The Stars

The rooftop SKY Bar at Anantara Kihavah Villas is a double-story lounge bar with comfortable chairs perfect for stargazing from the open rooftop deck before going indoors to the Maldives’ most powerful overwater observatory for up close star gazing.

The resort’s in-house astronomer and SKY guru guides guests through the maze of stars and constellations, and with little light pollution, guests are rewarded with dramatic views of planets, stars and the moon, all on perfect display. Each session is limited to eight people, and couples can book a special “Honeymoon Stargazing” option that allows honeymooners to name a star after their loved one as an infinite gift.

Soake at Joali Maldives
Soake at Joali Maldives
Photo credit: Joali Maldives

6. Multinational Cuisines

Yes, you’re in the Maldives. But that doesn’t mean you can’t dine like you’re in Italy, Japan, Southeast Asia, or the shores of the Mediterranean. JOALI Maldives is one of the most luxurious resorts in the Maldives, and this luxuriousness is reflected in their dining experiences. 

Soake is the island’s Japanese restaurant. Designed by world-renowned architect Noriyoshi Muramatsu, the restaurant seems to hover above the crystal-clear waters that surround the island, making for an incredible view while enjoying select sakes, sushi, and teppanyaki or kotatsu seating for iron-griddle enthusiasts.

Combine this with the experience of watching white-tipped reef sharks cruising the water below the restaurant, stalking the fish attracted by the underwater lights, and you have the makings of a very memorable meal.

Italian food at Allegria LUX* South Ari Atoll
Italian food at Allegria LUX* South Ari Atoll
Photo credit: LUX* South Ari Atoll

7. Fine Dining With A Paired Menu

Japanese cuisine one night and Italian the next. Fancy some hand-cut marinated Angus beef carpaccio with truffle cream and truffle dressing, paired with some French Champagne? What about golden saffron risotto garnished with gold leaf and washed down with an Australian chardonnay? A four-course dinner with wine pairings selected by the Sommelier at LUX* South Ari Atoll gives you just that!

Allegria restaurant takes you from the Maldives to the Mediterranean. The menu is primarily Italian cuisine — think gnocchi, homemade pasta, fresh seafood, and wood-fired pizzas. For a special treat, Allegria’s wine cellar can be privately booked for small groups, like ours, to dine in the cellar while sampling New World wines.

8. Cooking Course

My culinary journey in the Maldives came full circle when, having eaten traditional Maldivian breakfast on my first morning in this tropical country, I finished my travels at LUX* South Ari Atoll and took part in a cooking course, where we turned out hands to some local dishes.

The enthusiastic chef demonstrated how the selective use of spices enhanced what would otherwise have been very simple dishes. Starting with bis keemiya, somewhat like a samosa, we learned how to fill pastry with tuna, sliced onions, and sautéed, shredded cabbage.

Moving on, we mastered a cabbage and coconut salad before the final course, another traditional dish, Anbu Riha, a unique curry made from smoked tuna cooked with mango, coconut, and fiery hot chilies.

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6 Fantastic Underwater Adventures To Experience In The Maldives https://www.travelawaits.com/2799493/best-underwater-activities-maldives/ Wed, 07 Sep 2022 18:04:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2799493 Scuba diving in the Maldives
Anantara Kihavah

The entire land area of the Maldives is just 115 square miles, sitting in 35,000 square miles of ocean, and with few islands bigger than 300 acres. In other words, the ocean makes up more than 99 percent of the entire country — so if you are planning on holidaying here, you’d better love the water!

The stunning islands of the Maldives are best known as the destination you head to for some serious rest and relaxation. Think sandy beaches, swaying palm trees, lazing in hammocks, indulging in massages and spa treatments, and sipping on fruity cocktails at sunset. But there’s more to offer here! The Maldives is part of an extensive underwater mountain range, with vivid corals around the rims of ancient volcanoes. Known as one of the world’s most desirable destinations for year-round scuba diving and snorkeling, the Maldives is every ocean lover’s dream. The surrounding waters are home to an astounding variety of marine life, with nearly 200 species of hard corals, over 1,100 species of fish, 400 species of mollusks, 350 species of marine crustaceans, and more! In terms of biodiversity, the Maldivian waters are the oceanic version of virgin rainforests.

So come with me and let’s explore the astounding underwater world of the Maldives.

House reef at Anantara Kihavah
House reef at Anantara Kihavah
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

1. Snorkel Your Resort’s House Reef

Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas

Snorkeling in the Maldives is an absolute ‘must do’ activity, it lets you explore the archipelago’s spectacular underwater world, without having to go too deep into the water. If you want to experience the underwater Maldives, but are perhaps not confident enough to go scuba diving, then give snorkeling a go. Many of the Maldives’ resorts have a house reef, located just out from the beach.  You can simply take your fins and mask, and float out into the shallow areas of the sea, often just a few steps from your room, as I did at Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas. You don’t even need to be a strong swimmer. I had a friend with me who wasn’t confident in the water, but still wanted to see as much as possible. We simply got a lifebuoy with a rope attached. When she got tired, she grabbed the ring and took a breather, and when it was time to go back to shore, I towed her as I swam.

Pro Tip: don’t accidentally step on any of the living corals, this ecosystem is very fragile.

Manta rays in the Maldives
Manta rays
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

2. Swim With Manta Rays

Hanifaru Bay

Our speedboat carved a white foam wake in the water as we left Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas, on Kihavah Huravalhi Island, and headed out into the ocean. We were on our way to Hanifaru Bay, a forty-minute boat ride away, to swim with reef manta rays. The Maldives boasts the largest known population of reef manta rays in the world, and Hanifaru Bay is undoubtedly the best place in the Maldives to swim with them.

There’s honestly nothing quite as magical as your first sighting of a manta ray in the ocean. We arrived and donned our mask, snorkel, and fins, dropped over the side of the boat and into the water. For a few minutes we saw nothing, and then out of the corner of my eye, I saw a giant shadow. First one, then two, and then more. Manta rays heading my way, swimming in formation, so close they almost brushed against me as they passed. Manta rays are filter feeders — feeding on tiny organisms like plankton, shrimp, and jellyfish. As they glide through the water, they feed by filtering large volumes of water through their wide open mouths.

Swimming amongst the feeding aggregations of manta rays at Hanifaru Bay is one of the most mind-blowing things I’ve ever done. Reef manta rays are the second largest ray species in the world. Their width usually varies from 9–11 feet, though some very large ones can grow up to 18 feet in width. There are only a handful of places in the world where visitors can get this close to so many manta rays, and snorkel beside them as they feed.

Pro Tip: The manta ray feeding season is from May to November. However, the best time to visit Hanifaru Bay is from late June to October, when the monsoon causes a massive build-up of plankton, drawing hundreds of manta rays and whale sharks into the bay.

Be aware that diving is no longer permitted in the bay. Keep disturbances to a minimum and remember you can only snorkel here. Strict guidelines for visitors have been put in place. Snorkelers must keep a minimum of 9 feet from any animal, and refrain from any approaching, touching, or stroking. Photography is allowed, but without flash.

Whale shark in the Maldives
Whale shark
Photo credit: LUX* South Ari Atoll

3. Meet Whale Sharks

South Ari Atoll Marine Protected Area Or Hanifaru Bay

The Maldives is a hotspot for whale sharks as they are year-round residents here. The whale sharks found in the Maldives are a little smaller than those found elsewhere, though they can still easily measure up to 26 feet long — even though they are harmless, swimming with these creatures is not for the faint-hearted!

South Ari Atoll Marine Protected Area is one of the best places to see these whale sharks, with year-round snorkeling excursions providing excellent sightings. Hanifaru Bay, where we swam with the reef manta rays, is another great option for those traveling to the Maldives during the wet season (May to September/October) as the monsoon ensures massive plankton build-up, drawing in hundreds of whale sharks and manta rays. The narrow end of Hanifaru Bay is known as the world’s largest known feeding station.

Swimming with whale sharks is an experience of a lifetime, and the Maldives is one of the few destinations around the world where, in season, sightings of whale sharks are almost guaranteed. If you have whale sharks on your wish list, then I’d recommend you stay at a resort close to either South Ari Atoll or Hanifaru Bay. Then, a trip out to sea from your resort is an easy activity.

A sea turtle in the Maldives
Sea turtle
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

4. Swim Or Scuba With Sea Turtles

South Ari Atoll Marine Protected Area

The Maldivian archipelago is home to five of the world’s seven species of sea turtles — green, hawksbill, loggerhead, olive ridley, and leatherback. Of these, the two species you are most likely to see are the green and hawksbill turtles; both are listed as endangered.

Snorkeling with sea turtles in their natural habitat is a magical experience, and it’s likely you’ll spot turtles in the waters around your resort. Swimming with turtles is as exciting as it sounds, and it’s not difficult to find yourself close to one or more, as they often appear when you least expect it. Don’t try and keep up with them — if they want to get away from you, they can use their paddle-shaped flippers to propel themselves at speeds of up to 22 miles an hour, and you’ll be hard-pressed to keep up with that!

Scuba diving is another way to get up close to sea turtles. Diving is an incredible way to see an entirely different world, and it’s one of those skills I’d recommend every traveler have in their repertoire. The warm, sparkling water of the Indian Ocean provides the perfect conditions for a thriving underwater world full of marine life, including turtles. The water is very clear and you can expect visibility ranging from 70-130 feet. There’s an incredible sense of peace that washes over you when you’re 10 or 15 feet underwater and a sea turtle comes gliding past, or when you spy one that’s wedged itself under an overhanging shelf of coral to take a nap.

Pro Tip: Most of the large Maldivian resorts have their own PADI-certified dive centers, where you can sign up for dives and courses. It doesn’t matter if you’ve never dived before, there are even classes for newbies! Some resorts have training pools where you can learn the techniques and get comfortable with breathing underwater before you go out to dive. We went out snorkeling and scuba diving from LUX* South Ari Atoll.

Turtle shell historically was a major export in the Maldives. It was traded with Arabia, India, and China. Turtle shell was made into boxes, caskets, bracelets, hair combs, and other ornaments. Turtle products are still being snapped up by buyers around the world. The rise of tourism in the Maldives has seen the slaughter of turtles for their shells, leading to a serious decline in turtle numbers. Tourists should be aware that purchasing jewelry or gifts made from turtle shells is a threat to the turtle population.

A white sand beach in the Maldives
A white sand beach in the Maldives
Photo credit: LUX* South Ari Atoll

5. Dolphin Watching

South Ari Atoll Marine Protected Area

As we headed out from Lux* South Ari Atoll to search for whale sharks, a pod of spinner dolphins surfaced in the swell. Spinner dolphins are the most commonly sighted dolphins here, owing to their predictable daily migrations. They feed offshore every night and every morning travel into the atoll to rest. There are over 20 species of dolphins that call the waters around the Maldives home, so most visitors will come across dolphins at some point or another during their stay. The most common dolphins around the atolls are spinner, spotted, Risso’s, rough-toothed, and striped dolphin. The joy of watching a pod of dolphins playfully propelling themselves out of the water is an unforgettable sight.

While it’s entirely possible to watch dolphins, it’s not that easy to get up close to them. Dolphins are fast, wild creatures, and not terribly interested in mingling with humans. There are no “swimming with dolphins” activities offered at Maldives resorts and the only place you’re likely to be around dolphins is in the open ocean.

Pro Tip: If you are a keen scuba diver or want to spend more time spotting cetaceans, you may like to opt to stay on a liveaboard boat for your vacation. The length of most liveaboard itineraries in the Ari Atoll ranges from 7-12 nights and you are pretty much guaranteed to see a lot of dolphins. Dolphin watching in the Maldives is a year-round activity, but for an even better chance, December to March is generally regarded as the best time.

Underwater restaurant at Anantara Kihavah
Underwater restaurant at Anantara Kihavah
Photo credit: Anantara Kihavah

6. Underwater Dining And Wine Tasting

Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas

If you’re not in the mood for a swim, but you still want to see the amazing underwater world of the Maldives, how about wining and dining under the sea? Breakfast or dinner in the SEA restaurant at Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas is a dining experience like no other. Imagine eating an eggs benedict while a clown fish examines you through the window, or perhaps lobster followed by prime-aged Wagyu beef, while black-tipped reef sharks glide past from the blue depths.

You may be on a tropical island, but that doesn’t mean you need to leave life’s luxuries behind. Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas’ underwater wine cave, within SEA restaurant, features 275 labels from 15 countries, including vintages from Argentina, Australia, the Rhône Valley, and Bordeaux. This is the world’s first underwater wine cellar and one of only a handful of underwater restaurants in the country. The food is fabulous and the wine is delicious, but I must confess, no matter how good the wining and dining, nor how fascinating your dining companion’s conversation is, the sight of an endless stream of colorful fish, a silent sea turtle, or a group of spotted eagle rays swimming past is bound to distract you!

While an overwater villa in the Maldives may well be the highlight of your stay here, the opportunity to go below the water’s surface and into the breathtaking world of amazing creatures, colorful fish, and spectacular coral is unmissable. Take the plunge!

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3 Meaningful Travel Experiences I Loved In Northern Thailand https://www.travelawaits.com/2797667/best-things-to-do-northern-thailand/ Wed, 31 Aug 2022 19:13:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2797667 Valley and sunset views at Phu Chaisai resort
Michael Cullen

How to describe northern Thailand? Let’s start with the rich cultural heritage dating back to the 13th century. Add towering mountains, languid waterfalls, swift-moving rivers, ancient temples, lush green fields, high country tea and coffee plantations, and a distinct cuisine, and you begin to get the picture.

Chiang Mai, the largest city in northern Thailand and the second most visited destination in Thailand, and Chiang Rai, a smaller sibling, are great places to base yourself when exploring this fascinating region.

Hill tribe communities are another aspect of northern Thailand’s story. Descendants of nomadic wanderers from Tibet, China, and Laos — the Lisu, Lahu, Akha, Hmong, Karen, and Mien tribes — have long called the tangled green mountains stretching along the north’s border with neighboring Myanmar (Burma) home. For centuries, they were often treated as outcasts; however, this is changing, and their unique contribution to the region’s story is being acknowledged and celebrated.

Recently I spent four weeks crisscrossing northern Thailand, gaining deeper insights, further complimenting my previous visits to this magnificent region. I prefer “slow travel,” delving into the history, understanding the location, people, and culture, connecting with locals, and making “goodwill deposits” where I can.

This article concentrates on three meaningful experiences and activities that left a stamp on my soul.

The founder of ENP, Lek Chailert
The founder of ENP, Lek Chailert
Photo credit: ENP

1. Volunteering With Rescued Elephants

The 250-acre Elephant Nature Park (ENP) sits in the verdant Mae Taeng Valley just 40 miles north of Chiang Mai. Created in 2003 by the diminutive Saengduean “Lek” Chailert, this sanctuary provides a rest-of-life home for rescued injured, neglected, and elderly Asian elephants. A native of the north, Lek has devoted her life through her Save Elephant Foundation (SEF) to advocating and championing the rights of elephants in Asia, along with all animals in need.

These majestic rescued elephants live in natural herds, going about life — grazing in the paddocks, playing in mud baths, romping in the river, and generally being elephants without any requirement to interact with, entertain, or transport humans.

Pro Tip: Take a day trip or a 2-day, 1-night visit if you’re on a tight schedule, although I recommend the 7-day volunteer stint for a fully immersive experience.

Volunteers helping staff with field work at ENP
Volunteers helping staff with field work at ENP
Photo credit: ENP

Elephant Nature Park 7-Day Volunteer Program Activities

Suitable for adults of all ages, this program starts on Mondays and includes transfers from Chiang Mai. Onsite accommodation in shared same-sex rooms is provided for singles. Families or couples can stay together. The volunteer working day runs from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., with an hour off for lunch. Three meals (tasty vegetarian) per day are provided, and volunteers contribute 12,000 THB (approx. $330 USD) for the week at ENP.

A maximum of 20 volunteers are onsite any week as extra hands to keep the necessary work happening. Food preparation is a big job, with an abundance of mouths to feed, including 118 elephants eating around 10 percent of their body weight daily, plus buffalo and hundreds of dogs and cats.

The volume of watermelons, cucumbers, sugarcane, and bananas delivered into the elephant kitchen is eye-popping.

Other tasks include cleaning elephant enclosures while they are out foraging and paddock maintenance. Some volunteers travel with staff to collect more elephant food from local farmers. Then the rescued dogs and cats need feeding, grooming, and exercising.

After the communal dinner, optional evening activities include Thai language and culture lessons or perhaps a chat with founder Lek. An equally rewarding alternative is sitting riverside chatting with fellow volunteers while listening to the sounds of elephants trumpeting across the balmy night air.

herd of ENP elephants
A herd of elephants at ENP
Photo credit: ENP

Most Memorable Moments

So many moments will stay with me from my rewarding Elephant Nature Park week. A particular highlight was waiting on the Mae Taeng River bank late afternoon as individual elephant herds came downriver to their enclosures for the night. Not a mahout (elephant tender) or other guiding human was involved — just each herd leader, trumpeting her compatriots to hurry along. The elephants were happily and enthusiastically heading home, having learned that some tasty treats would be waiting in their enclosures.

Traditional and organic Thai meals at the Lisu Lodge
Traditional and organic Thai meals at the Lisu Lodge
Photo credit: Lisu Lodge

2. Hill Tribe Village Stay

Northern Thailand offers many opportunities to visit hill tribe communities, get a photo, and maybe buy a trinket. In contrast, places like Lisu Lodge, a community tourism-created venture, allow you to stay within a community for a few days, getting closer to hill tribes’ daily lives. Your stay is without any hardship while knowing that you provide direct employment for individuals and funds from the business are channeled back to the community.

Lisu Lodge sits on the outskirts of a small village, Ban Chang, in the same Mae Taeng district as Elephant Nature Park and a 50-minute drive north of Chiang Mai. The primary residents of the village are the Lisu and Akha hill tribes people, who continue to practice their culture, traditions, and way of life.

Lisu Lodge private guestroom
Lisu Lodge private guestroom
Photo credit: Lisu Lodge

Lodge Accommodation & Meals

The Lodge is four traditional houses set around paddy fields. A total of 20 guests can be accommodated overnight, with most visitors opting for the 2-day, 1-night stay. All guests have their own room and private bathroom. The included delicious dinner and breakfast are enjoyed communally on the expansive covered terrace, providing an opportunity to mix with fellow guests. 

Having arrived and been welcomed to the Lodge, an Akha woman named Bowie took us on a guided tour of the village, providing insights into daily life. She tells us that the village shaman sometimes comes out to meet visitors.

Our exploration of Wat Ton Lung, the local Buddhist temple and its medicinal herbal garden, provided a great insight into the health benefits of herbs I’ve only associated with Thai cooking. The village’s fruit and vegetable gardens and the surrounding rice fields are organic.

Tea leaf picking excursion at the Lisu Lodge
Tea leaf picking excursion at the Lisu Lodge
Photo credit: Lisu Lodge

Local Excursions & Outings

Guests can grab a Lodge bicycle and explore at their own pace or sign up for one of the add-on activities. These include a nature walk with a local guide or lazily drifting down the river on a bamboo raft.

Pro Tip: One must-do excursion is visiting the nearby village-run Araksa Tea Plantation. Take the tour to learn the tea growing process and get hands on picking the fresh leaf tips. Watch how tea leaves are processed according to age-old traditions, view the factory, and sample the organically produced, award-winning teas. Stop for lunch or a snack at their café if time permits.

I loved seeing village life up close, enjoying the freshness of the delicious meals, and the Lodge staff’s friendliness plus, the rice paddies cloaked in the early morning mist. And most of all, I loved the genuineness of the whole experience.

Pro Tip: Visitors can extend beyond the typical 2-day, 1-night stay, and I recommend an extra night. Each excursion is excellent, and you’ll gain more authentic time with your host community.

The Phu Chaisai pool
The Phu Chaisai pool
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

3. Golden Triangle Luxe Eco Lodge Experience

The mountains to the north and west of Chiang Rai — dubbed the Golden Triangle by the CIA — were once known for ranking among the world’s largest opium-producing areas. That situation has turned around since the start of the 21st century, thanks in particular to Thailand’s royal family’s significant efforts.

The region is now renowned for its reforested mountains, colorful hill tribe communities, and high-value, export-quality cash crops like coffee, tea, and macadamia nuts. Mountains rise from 3,500 to 6,550 feet with narrow winding roads and fascinating villages — all well worth your time.

Outdoor dining at Phu Chaisai resort
Outdoor dining at Phu Chaisai resort
Photo credit: Michael Cullen

A Great Base For Exploration

One possible place to base yourself for a few days while exploring the region is Phu Chaisai resort, just under an hour north of Chiang Rai. Perched atop a bamboo-clad mountain with spectacular Mae Salong valley views, Phu Chaisai, which translates as “Mountain of Clear Heart,” is an eco-lodge created by one of Thailand’s leading interior designers, M.L. Sudavdee Kriangkrai.

On land held in her family for many years, Phu Chaisai’s design harmonizes with the forested surrounds and sees split bamboo used as a strong design element. Local hill tribe fabrics add color and texture to the rooms, while the cleansing fresh mountain air reduces the need for air conditioning. Televisions and alarm clocks are absent here.

Phu Chaisai’s overall “less is more” concept provides the opportunity to immerse yourself in the natural rhythm and environment of the far north.

Hike the marked trails on this 800-acre organic estate, visit their oolong tea plantation, or learn local dishes in the cooking school using produce grown in the resort’s gardens. Experience spa treatments incorporating natural aromatic oils created from resort-grown plants. Dine on the restaurant’s authentic northern Thai, Burmese, and Akha regional cuisines, and sip the resort’s organic teas or arabica coffee from the neighboring farm.

I loved the luxury of waking up to the early morning bird song enveloped in the cool morning air, plus dining and enjoying spa treatments knowing all the elements of products served or used were natural and from the hills around me. The resort imbued a sense of peace and relaxation.

Other Things To Do Near Chiang Mai And Chiang Rai

Phu Chaisai is a great base to explore the immediate region if you have your own vehicle. Less than 20 miles from the resort is the must-visit Doi Tung Palace and the spectacular 10-acre temperate-climate Mae Fah Luang Garden.

Learn how the Royal Family, through the Doi Tung development project, positively impacted this region and its Hill Tribe communities at the Hall of Inspiration. Be tempted by their internationally awarded ceramics, textiles, and handicrafts in the boutiques, and enjoy locally grown export quality Doi Tung coffee. 

When To Visit Northern Thailand

When to visit northern Thailand is worth considering. Though the busiest, November through to early February is a great time to visit as daytime temperatures are ideal and nighttime refreshingly cool. March through May is hot and often hazy due to crop burning, so not good for those with respiratory issues. June through October is the rainy season, with heavy downpours followed by sunny skies.

For more Thailand inspiration, consider

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10 Amazing Experiences To Have In The Maldives https://www.travelawaits.com/2795278/things-to-do-in-maldives/ Tue, 23 Aug 2022 16:03:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2795278 A boardwalk of over-the-water bungalows
LUX SOUTH ARI ATOLL

The 1,192 islands in the Republic of the Maldives stretch 500 miles from north to south across the equator, like a string of lustrous pearls in the azure waters in a remote corner of the Indian Ocean. With a total land mass of 115 square miles, this is Asia’s smallest country, both in population and in land area — if all the islands were placed side by side, their total would measure smaller than the city of Athens, Georgia! With an elevation of 4 feet 9 inches above sea level, the Maldives also claims the world’s lowest average elevation. Famed for its powdery, white sand beaches, and high-end resorts with sumptuous overwater bungalows, turquoise lagoons, and some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the world, the Maldives has a reputation for luxury. However, there is more than just luxury to offer here. I have just returned from a fabulous week in this most special of destinations, so read on and I’ll tell you just how many amazing experiences there are to see and do here, both on land and under the sea.

The white sand beaches of the Maldives
The white sand beaches of the Maldives
Photo credit: LUX SOUTH ARI ATOLL

1. Seaplanes

You will arrive in the Maldives at Malé International Airport, which perhaps oddly isn’t actually on the capital island of Malé itself, but rather on the small reclaimed adjacent island of Hulhumalé. Upon landing, you will transfer to the nearby docks, where walking down the overwater ramps to your waiting seaplane is the first of many unique and exciting things about your holiday. Whilst seaplanes are not a cheap way to travel, life is about the journey, and this will likely be one of the most scenic views of your life. You can’t put a price on that!

A seaplane travels three times faster than a boat, making it the ideal way to travel in this archipelago nation. From the minute you take off, the seaplane journey to your resort will be a 30-minute to one-hour flight of jaw-dropping aerial views, picture-perfect islands, luxury overwater villas, powdery sandbars, islands, atolls, reefs, and lagoons. Seaplanes only fly during daylight hours and they will not fly in bad weather.

We flew Trans Maldivian Airways, which currently flies to more than 80 Maldives resorts, carrying over 1,000,000 passengers per year, and Manta Air, the newest domestic airline to service the Maldives.

Pro Tip: There are a few things to know before you board your seaplane. Firstly, there are no toilets on board, and there are no business class seats. There is also no air-conditioning. So, although there will be fans, it can be rather hot inside the aircraft before take-off. Lastly, seaplanes have 15 seats, all very close to one another, and not all are window seats, so keep that in mind when boarding. There is no prior seat allocation.

Luxury overwater bungalow bathroom at Joali Maldives
Luxury overwater bungalow bathroom at ANANTARA KIHAVAH MALDIVES
Photo credit: ANANTARA KIHAVAH MALDIVES

2. Overwater Bungalows

If you’ve ever stared at photos of overwater bungalows and dreamed of visiting one, you’re not alone! Overwater bungalows come with a host of luxurious facilities — glass-bottomed bathrooms, private infinity pools for floating breakfasts, sun decks, overwater hammocks, and outdoor beds for catching a tan without having to leave your room, being lulled to sleep by the sound of waves beneath your bed; all this and stairs leading directly to the ocean where you can snorkel with sea turtles, fish, and occasionally sharks.

What could be dreamier? Relaxation and privacy, all with amazing views. Overwater villas are the epitome of vacation goals.

Scuba diving in the Maldives
Scuba diving is done at a fairly leisurely pace.
Photo credit: ANANTARA KIHAVAH MALDIVES

3. Underwater Encounters

Planning a holiday in the Maldives? Then stunning underwater images of tropical fish and colorful coral have probably already crossed your mind. Diving and snorkeling experiences in the Maldives are some of the best in the world, and the excellent reefs and abundance of marine life make this destination an ocean lover’s dream.

Between the atolls and islands, there are channels connecting the Indian Ocean to the Lagoons. Diving is an incredible way to see this underwater world and there’s a real sense of peace that washes over you when you’re floating 10 feet underwater.

Scuba diving is done at a fairly leisurely pace. You’ll drift in the ocean currents, past ocean walls, festooned with colorful sponges, soft corals, invertebrates, and over cleaning stations where wrasse and shrimp service manta rays. You’ll likely spot eagle rays and Napoleon wrasse, pelagic fishes like trevally or barracuda, probably the occasional whitetip or grey reef sharks, and if you’re really lucky, the rare hammerhead shark.

You don’t have to be scuba qualified to experience the underwater world of the Maldives. Simply don a mask, snorkel, and put on a pair of fins — a whole new world awaits. At JOALI Maldives, we slipped into the water before breakfast from the beach in front of our villa, and found fish and coral awaiting us. At Anantara Kihavah Maldives, we snorkeled the house reef, which teamed with reef fish and colorful coral gardens. Later on, we went out by boat to snorkel with giant manta rays in the protected Hanifaru Bay, the world’s largest manta ray feeding location. From LUX* South Ari Atoll, we snorkeled with sea turtles and eagle rays before going to look, unsuccessfully, for rare whale sharks. They can be found with a bit of luck and some searching, all year round in the Maldives.

Pro Tip: With a tropical climate and warm temperatures year-round, the Maldives can be dived at any time, although August-November is considered the best time to see manta rays and whale sharks.

House Reef at Anantara Kihavah Maldives
House Reef at Anantara Kihavah Maldives
Photo credit: ANANTARA KIHAVAH MALDIVES

4. Coral Farming

Climate change-driven coral bleaching is a major concern in the Maldives. In 1998, more than 90 percent of the coral in the Maldives was killed in a mass bleaching event. In 2016, the phenomenon known as El Niño caused a sustained spike in seawater temperatures, resulting in the mass bleaching of 72 percent of the shallow water corals. While coral populations have been recovering steadily in recent years, the Maldives would improve with a little help. Coral regeneration programs have been implemented at various resorts, and visitors can participate in activities like the “coral farming” workshop we took part in with the resident marine biologist, at LUX* South Ari Atoll. We started with tiny shards of coral that we attached to a metal frame that would ultimately be placed in the resort’s coral nursery, and will hopefully develop into “adults” over time.

A whale shark in the Maldives
A whale shark in the Maldives
Photo credit: LUX SOUTH ARI ATOLL

5. Fishing

After tourism, fishing is the Maldives’ main industry, and almost a third of the country’s workforce is employed in the industry. From catching, to packaging, and exporting. Nutrient-rich waters mean barracuda, swordfish, and giant trevally are regularly spotted. Snapper and groupers are widely caught, but tuna is the fish most commonly caught. Keen anglers can experience the thrill of casting a line in the Maldives and night fishing expeditions are an option, with this usually being aboard traditional dhoni fishing boats with a handline. Fly fishing is also an option. Do note that spearfishing is prohibited.

6. Wildlife

Most of the mammals and reptiles found in the Maldives are found in the water. This is not a safari destination! Whales and dolphins are common, and so are sea turtles (green, hawksbill, and leatherback). There is the occasional sea snake, and even more uncommon, saltwater crocodiles.

The small size and isolation of the Maldives mean that its birdlife is very limited. Only 5 subspecies of birds have been identified as endemic to the Maldives, including my favorite, the White-breasted waterhen. The waterhen is often considered the national bird of the Maldives and it’s regularly seen on the beach or scuttling in and out of overhanging bushes. They are incredibly cute little birds, especially when they have small babies in tow. Like the human tourists, most of the birds you’ll see are migratory visitors from Europe, vagrants, or imported species, and there are around 160 to 180 different species of those!

One of the other few bits of wildlife you are likely to see on your holiday is the fruit bat. Fruit bats, or flying foxes, seem to catch people’s eye in the Maldives, and they are most often seen around dusk, swooping down from the tree tops to sip water from the pool or heading out over the ocean in their nightly quest for food.

Anantara Kihavah Maldives' underwater restaurant
Anantara Kihavah Maldives underwater restaurant
Photo credit: ANANTARA KIHAVAH MALDIVES

7. Food

Food was another highlight of the Maldives for me.

Fish has long been a staple ingredient in Maldivian local dishes. In a country where fish is one of the few abundant natural resources, it’s no surprise that the Maldives’ most popular breakfast dish features tuna. Mas huni is made by mixing together chopped tuna, onion, and chilies with grated coconut and lime juice, then served with thin flatbreads known as roshi. Traditional breakfast dishes like this were on the menu at JOALI Maldives.

We had the opportunity to eat breakfast in Anantara Kihavah Maldives’ underwater restaurant, Sea. The octagonal dining room has huge glass sides, allowing diners incredible views of marine life, swimming to and fro, while they eat. It’s rather hard to concentrate on your breakfast when eagle rays and the occasional turtle or shark are drifting past!

Having eaten to our heart’s content, and sampled all kinds of dishes, when we reached Lux* South Ari Atoll we joined a cooking class. There, the chef taught us a few traditional Maldivian dishes. Starting with Hedhikaa, the catch-all word for snacks, we learned to make a traditional samosa before moving on to a cabbage and coconut salad, then a tuna curry (dhon riha) made with coconut milk, fresh tuna, onions, curry leaves, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric, and cumin — delicious.

Joali Maldives' wooden jetty at night
JOALI Maldives wooden jetty at night
Photo credit: JOALI MALDIVES

8. Stargazing

The Maldives seem to have some of the biggest skies in the world. Free from light pollution, each tiny island presents the perfect place to observe the universe. However, nowhere is better prepared than Anantara Kihavah Maldives, where a custom-built observatory boasts a powerful research-grade 16 inch Meade LX200 telescope, for seriously up-close star gazing. Here, you can lie back on a circular daybed and gaze at the stars glittering overhead, while the island’s resident “Sky Guru,” Shameem, teaches you about the constellations before introducing you to the Maldives’ most powerful telescope. Looking through the viewfinder, you can see the pale yellow rings of Saturn, the craters on the moon, the cluster of over 300,000 stars that form the constellation of Hercules, and Omega Centauri, the largest known globular cluster in the Milky Way. A mesmerizing natural light shows a whole new world of wonder.

Joali Maldives' overwater spa
JOALI Maldives overwater spa
Photo credit: JOALI MALDIVES

9. Spas, Hammams, And Relaxation

Found on most resort islands, spas in the Maldives are a haven for tranquility, rejuvenation, and relaxation. Luxury spa facilities offer plentiful signature treatments along with comprehensive ranges of products that provide a lavish pampering experience. Perhaps a deep cleansing, hydrating skin care program, nourishing body exfoliation, or a detoxifying wrap? Indulge in a Balinese or Thai massage like the ones offered in the over-water treatment rooms at Anantara Kihavah Maldives or LUX* South Ari Atoll, or perhaps a visit to the authentic hammam (a Middle Eastern variant of a steam room), like the beautiful marble-clad one at JOALI Maldives. Whichever treatment you decide upon at your resort spa, the experience is sure to revive you, body and mind, and make your holiday in the Maldives even more relaxing.

10. Beaches

If all this activity sounds a little too much for you, don’t fret, there are always beautiful beaches around. It’s a joy to kick off your shoes and walk on Maldivian beaches. The shimmering white sand, the swaying coconut palms, and the turquoise waters all combine to make the Maldives one of the most photogenic destinations in the world and a true holiday paradise.

Where To Stay

With 26 atolls, 1,192 islands, and around 154 resort islands offering all-inclusive stays, where does one start when looking for accommodation?

Joali Maldives overwater villa
JOALI Maldives overwater villa
Photo credit: JOALI MALDIVES

JOALI Maldives

On Muravandhoo Island, 100 miles from the capital Malé, in the Raa Atoll, JOALI’s 73 elegant and stylish beach and water villas, with cathedral ceilings, rose gold finishes, and hard-carved decorative doors, come with private infinity pools, personal butler and valet services, and sumptuous comforts. State-of-the-art lighting creates the perfect mood and remote-controlled curtains open and close at the flick of a switch. The most challenging decision of your day may be whether to wash off the sea, salt, and sand in your emerald green marble shower, or perhaps to use the tropical, outdoor shower replete with bright green bamboo tiles. Meal times offer you a whole lot more options, with four restaurants to choose from, and even an artisanal chocolate and ice-cream store to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Uninterrupted Indian Ocean views of brilliant blue waters and white sand beaches are never more than a short stroll away. JOALI Maldives is island luxury at its best.

Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas

Located on Kihavah Huravalhi, an island in the Baa Atoll, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, housing some of the richest diversity of marine life in the world is Anantara Kihavah Maldives. 78 miles from Malé, most guests arrive at the island via seaplane, gazing down over one aquamarine-ringed island after another en route. You can choose between one of the resort’s 80 overwater bungalows and beach villas, and it’s not an easy choice to make. The secluded beach villas have incredible palatial bathrooms, with water features, a bathing pagoda, and a short stroll to the beach past your own private pool. The overwater bungalows have glass panels on the bathroom floor and a glass-bottomed bath, giving you tantalizing glimpses of the ocean beneath your room. A floating breakfast in your infinity pool is a magical holiday highlight. With six restaurants to choose from, the archipelago’s only underwater wine cellar, and carefully curated “dining by design” experiences, meals are a memorable experience.

Swimming pool at LUX* South Ari Atoll
Swimming pool at LUX* South Ari Atoll
Photo credit: LUX SOUTH ARI ATOLL

LUX* South Ari Atoll

With 2.5 miles of beaches, 193 villas, and a world-class diving center, Lux* South Ari Atoll is on the island of Dhidhoofinolhu. From bike riding along the jetty, to swimming with whale sharks, dining in one of the resort’s eight restaurants, swimming in one of the two pools, or just hanging out in your bungalow on stilts, there’s a lot to do here. This is a good choice for families as there’s plenty to keep kids and teens busy. There’s a huge choice of water sports for the whole family. With the kids occupied, there’s plenty of chances for parents to sneak off to beach yoga or treatment in the spa.

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9 Key Tips For Hiking To Gorgeous Ta-Taki Falls In Okinawa, Japan https://www.travelawaits.com/2790924/tips-for-hiking-ta-taki-falls-okinawa-japan/ Wed, 10 Aug 2022 17:17:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2790924 Ta-Taki Falls on Okinawa
Joan Sherman

If you like to hike, rock climb, swim (or at the very least, get your feet wet), and if you have a good sense of adventure, there’s a great hike waiting for you in Okinawa, Japan.

Okinawa is the largest of the Ryukyu Islands located between the East China and Philippine Seas. We traveled there to spend time with our military son, Mike, who was stationed there. We planned 2 weeks in the Naha (southern) area, and we did this hike during our week in Okuma, in the northern part.

The hike is 3 miles round trip (out and back) in the town of Ogimi, near Kunigami-Gun. It’s an amazing combination of hiking, trekking through the Henan River (yes, you hike in the river), and rock climbing, all within a lush, tropical setting. The payoff is the remote, 50-foot-high Ta-Taki waterfall.

Here are my top tips for hiking to these gorgeous falls.

1. Know The Weather

I hate to start off with such a serious tip, but I must. You can’t get this one wrong.

This hike is amazing, astounding, astonishing, and every other awe-inspiring superlative when the weather is good, but when the weather is not good, this hike is just as equally dangerous, hazardous, and even life-threatening. That’s why weather is the first place to start.

Watch the weather. Know the weather. Be sure. This area is prone to flash flooding when it rains, and you don’t want to mess with that. In September 2020, two Marines shifted from taking this adventurous hike to saving more than a dozen hikers in a flash flood here.

We did this hike in February, and we had a dry day without a drop of rain in sight.

A sign at the beginning of the hike
A sign at the beginning of the hike
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

2. Go Early To Avoid Crowds

It was a Friday, and we got to the parking lot right at 10 a.m. when they opened. We paid a modest fee to the parking lot attendant and parked our car, and we had the place to ourselves.

This sign in the parking lot showed the hiking route — you can river-hike the whole thing, or you can walk the road initially and then get in the river part way downstream (we did the second option). The red-headed character on this sign made it look like a fun little jaunt, but to be honest, I was a bit nervous.

The sign gives the ground rules, and mercifully, they were also translated into English:

  • Stay out of the river when it’s raining. Flash floods can occur.
  • Don’t touch or take home any creatures. [There was no one to ask about this curiosity.]
  • Don’t leave garbage behind.
  • There are homes in the area. Please be respectful and keep the noise down.
  • The town of Ogimi is not liable for any accidents. Thank you for understanding.
The author's son guiding her and her husband on the hike
The author’s son guiding her and her husband on the hike
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

3. Have A Guide

This isn’t a must-have, but it’s a nice-to-have. It’s even nicer if the guide is your beloved military son who was stationed in Japan. He had done the hike before, so we knew we were in good hands.

In the absence of a guide, common sense goes a long way (see remaining tips). Since the route is out and back, you can’t really do it wrong.

The short road hike before reaching the river
The short road hike before reaching the river
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

4. Enjoy The Initial Road Hike (But It Won’t Last)

If you do the road hike to start, this part is harmless. We walked along a narrow, rural road with the Henan River to our right in a very thick, wooded setting. On the left beyond a black fence, we saw a residential area with blooming plants and flowers. Mike was carrying a drawstring bag and Dean was carrying water. I was a free agent, carrying only my camera (Dean always tells me to “travel light” and for once, I was).

There’s another big sign at the entry point into the river. It reiterates the importance of Tip #1 about the weather: “Precaution for high waters in the upper reaches of Henan River during rain. Even when it is not raining in the lower reaches of the river, there may be heavy rain upstream. There are incidents every year where people are left behind due to sudden swelling of the river due to rain. We ask those visitors who are river trekking or partaking of other activities to be well informed of the weather reports.” 

Pro Tip: Since you’ll be hiking in a river, bring a dry bag or plastic bag to keep your phone dry along the way (reception might be weak, anyway). Another packing tip that didn’t apply to us is to bring some heavy-duty bug spray. From what I’ve read, this forested river hike can be buggy.

Jambu shoes
The author’s jambu shoes
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

5. You’ll Be Glad You Wore The Right Clothes And Shoes

And so — into the river we go. The water is low and shallow and rather warm. And it looked completely clear and clean!

Mike had told us to wear bathing suits under our clothes because we would be hiking in a river. We wore wicking clothes that were quick-dry if they got wet. Dean and Mike wore tennis shoes, and I wore my JBU by Jambu shoes (like these) with good treads on the bottom.

I had read online that sometimes the river gets waist deep! It was ankle deep for us — a lovely little hike in the river.

Ropes and vines on the path to Ta-Taki Falls
You’ll be glad there are ropes and vines along the way
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

6. Use The Available Ropes And Vines

Sure, it’s a lovely little hike in the river… until it isn’t. The hike was up and down, in the river (mostly) and out of the river — over and past rocks and roots. It’s a rugged hike. There were ropes and vines in place to help us navigate around the more rugged areas and several cliff-like areas.

Rock climbing along the way to Ta-Taki Falls
Rock climbing along the way to Ta-Taki Falls
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

7. Take Your Time, And Grab A Hand If You Need One

The key to this hike is to take your time and to lean on each other if you need to. Grab a hand to help steady you, if needed. There’s no shame in that! The hike is steep in parts. It’s rugged. It’s amazing.

Dean and Mike in the pool of Ta-Taki Falls
Dean and Mike in the pool of Ta-Taki Falls
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

8. Bring A Snack To Enjoy At The Waterfall

It took us about half an hour from the entry point into the river to get to the waterfall. Dean and Mike went into the water. I guess it was a bit cold! Great father-son bonding, but I passed on that action. I liked hanging out there, taking photos, and listening to the roar of the waterfall echo against all the quiet.

Mike stayed in the water even after Dean got out and just splashed around a bit and enjoyed the break. It was good to see him relaxing and having fun. When he got out of the water, we sat on the rocks and talked and laughed. We drank some water (the day wasn’t hot, but we’ve hiked enough to know the need for water even without thirst) and shared a snack.

Hiking in the Henan River to Ta-Taki Falls
The unforgettable hike in the Henan River to Ta-Taki Falls
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

9. Be Careful On The Hike Out

Depending on fitness and energy level, it’s easy to get sloppy on the hike out. Remember those earlier tips about taking your time and grabbing ropes, vines, and helping hands? It all applies again. We got back to the car safely and chatted about the unique experience.

Pro Tip: You might realize all this river hiking has given you a powerful appetite. It’s almost a crime to be in Okinawa and crave a burger, but if so, Captain Kangaroo Hamburger is the place to stop. Take your pick from a classic burger, or jazz it up with a taco burger, teriyaki chicken burger, or try the fried onion/bacon combo of a Sparky burger. This place draws a crowd, so try to go at an off time.

Shioya Bay in Japan
Shioya Bay
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

Bonus Tip: Stop At Shioya Bay For Incredible Views

About 4 miles north of Ta-Taki Falls, don’t miss the overlook on Shioya Bay, rated one of the top eight views on Okinawa — and it’s easy to see why.

We parked the car and followed the short path at the top of the mountain, past a trellis, to an observation platform. We saw a large sign in Japanese, which we couldn’t read, but it might have said, “Drink in this gorgeous view and be glad to be alive.” Indeed.

The hike through the Henan River to the gorgeous Ta-Taki Falls is another bucket list, memory-making adventure. These kinds of activities always make me grateful for the time, money, and health to travel. It’s such a gift! And it was especially wonderful to see the father-son interaction between my husband and son. I soaked it all in.

When you go to Okinawa, check the weather, and if it’s clear skies ahead and you’re up for it, follow these nine key tips and take this hike through the crystal-clear Henan River to the gorgeous Ta-Taki Falls. You’ll be so glad you did.

Related Reading:

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6 Incredible Dishes To Try When Visiting Okinawa, Japan https://www.travelawaits.com/2778864/best-foods-to-try-okinawa-japan/ Wed, 06 Jul 2022 19:11:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2778864 Snack shop in Okinawa
FS11 / Shutterstock.com

Goya, su-chika, hirarya-chi, shima-rakkyo. These foods sound foreign to my American ears, but part of immersing ourselves in Okinawa, Japan, was trying the local flavors.

Okinawa is the largest of the Ryukyu Islands located between the East China and Philippine seas and almost 1,000 miles south of Tokyo. We traveled to spend time with our military son who was stationed there, and since we were going that far, we planned 2 weeks in the southern (Naha) area and another week north, in Okuma.

We loved our time in Okinawa. It has all the beauty of Hawaii and all the kindness and courtesies of Japan. When we arrived in Okinawa after a long day of travel, we stepped into our first Okinawan taxi, which was impeccably clean. The quaint lace doilies on the headrests showed us this cab was driven by someone who cares about the details. Early on in our trip, when an older gentleman bowed to us in the elevator, we clumsily bowed back. Our son tried to teach us a formal thank you (“arigato gozaimasu”), and I repeatedly attempted to say that second word correctly and get the emphasis just right. I can’t say we ever got the courtesies or phrases down perfectly, but we enjoyed the abundant beauty of the island and the culture and graciousness of its people.

Amid it all, we enjoyed some great flavors. Okinawan chefs meld the best of Japanese, Chinese, Thai, and Western cooking, and the outcome is worth trying. Sushi, tuna rolls, shoyu and miso ramen, fried rice, and curious seaweed garnishes are ubiquitous and delicious, but we also tried foods that were entirely unfamiliar to us. Here are six incredible dishes or foods I’d encourage you to try when you get there.

Sweet potato sweet roll and paste with acerola juice
Sweet potato sweet roll and paste with acerola juice
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

1. Okinawa Sweet Potatoes

It’s easy to “eat your colors” with the help of Okinawa sweet potatoes — they’re purple! Grown in rich volcanic soil, these unique potatoes (also called beni imo) have antioxidants like those found in blueberries. They are dense and drier than the orange ones we know and have a mild taste. At a breakfast buffet, I tried a sweet roll made with sweet potatoes and could see the purple ribbon throughout (convincing myself it was healthy). I spread it with the accompanying purple paste for more sweet potato goodness.

Acerola juice and acerolas
Acerola juice
Photo credit: NIKCOA / Shutterstock.com

2. Acerola Juice

At the same buffet, I poured myself a glass of acerola juice. Acerola is called an untapped superfruit and is believed to be one of the richest natural sources of vitamin C (50-100 times greater than an orange or lemon), antioxidants, and other nutrients. The juice was fruity and sweet, very similar to cherry.

Pro Tip: Thanks to the American military influence on the island, you can find an English menu in many restaurants. In smaller ones with entirely Japanese menus, the use of photos combined with the universal “point and nod” method works just fine.

Lychees
Lychees
Photo credit: Walaiporn Kaewsai / Shutterstock.com

3. Lychees

Lychees are a small, golf-ball-sized fruit with a rough, purplish-red rind. The rind looks tough and uncooperative, but it peels easily with your fingers. The white, juicy fruit inside has the texture of a peeled grape. It does have a large brown seed you’ll have to eat around, but it’s worth it. Lychee is also known for its health benefits of vitamins and antioxidants.

Pro Tip: If you’re a fan of iced tea, I liked the Kirin brand straight (red) tea and milk tea. Find them in any grocery store.

During our last week on the island, we stayed at the wonderful Okuma Private Beach & Resort. This resort has six restaurants that offer a variety of dining experiences. One night, we enjoyed tapas (small portion appetizers) at Okame, their restaurant that promises an authentic Okinawan atmosphere. We ordered six tapas so we could taste a variety of flavors.

Goya radish salad with horseradish dressing
Goya radish salad with horseradish dressing
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

4. Goya Salad

Goya is a bitter melon, but pair it with a Japanese white radish salad and horseradish dressing, and it’s crunchy, zesty, and delicious! Goya is named among the foods that help make Okinawa a “Blue Zone” (five areas in the world with a large concentration of centenarians, age 100+ plus people who’ve grown old without traditional health problems like heart disease, obesity, cancer, or diabetes.)

Pro Tip: Chopsticks are easier to use with large pieces of food, like ramen noodles or this goya salad. (Fried rice was really a challenge!) Etiquette says to eat the entire portion you pick up on your chopsticks in one bite. When not in use, rest your chopsticks on the side of your plate or on a provided chopstick holder. Sticking them vertically into your food is inappropriate because it carries funeral symbolism. We never achieved the expert chopstick skill of our son, but we had fun trying.

Shima-rakkyo served crip-tender
Shima-rakkyo served crip-tender
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

5. Shima-Rakkyo

Shima-rakkyo, or island shallots, are native to Okinawa and are another vegetable thought to contribute to Blue Zone longevity. They have an aroma and flavor like a green onion, and ours were served lightly salted, crisp-tender and flavorful, with dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi) on top. You can also eat them raw or lightly pickled.

Pro Tip: At some point in your culinary journey, try a sip or two of the Okinawan liquor, awamori. It starts with Indica Thai rice soaked in water and is fermented and distilled, and it packs a punch. Tradition says awamori has been made the same way for more than 500 years.

Hirarya-chi, chewy Okinawan pancakes
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

6. Hirarya-Chi

Hiraya-chi is a savory Okinawa-style pancake with chives and green onion. These were served with Worcestershire sauce and mayo. Some might find their rather spongy texture off-putting; I thought the flavor was so good that the texture was secondary. It’s said to be a perfect snack with awamori or a locally brewed Orion beer. Because it’s made with common ingredients, hirarya-chi is also a “go-to” emergency food when the island faces threats of a typhoon.

When you try new things, not everything is a winner. Of the six tapas we tried, three were devoured, and three were eaten “less enthusiastically.” Who knows? You might try these things and like them, but they weren’t our favorites:

  • Asa-soup: A salty seaweed soup, served with rice (liked the rice!).
  • Rafute: Slowly cooked, salted, sweetened pork belly, stewed in soy sauce and fish broth, served with a lemon wedge.
  • Su-chika: Boneless pork ribs, salt-preserved, steamed, and served with rice noodles.

Pro Tip: Tipping is unnecessary in Japan. No need to tip your server, bartender, taxi driver, or anyone else. It seems unusual to us, but it’s perfectly fine in Okinawa.

Bonus: Happy Snacking

Snacks are an important part of a travel food experience. While not all of these are exclusively Japanese, here were some delicious and sometimes surprising snacking options on Okinawa.

Blue Seal Ice Cream in Okinawa
Hand-packed Blue Seal ice cream, an Okinawan classic
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

Blue Seal Ice Cream

Hand-packed Blue Seal ice cream is an Okinawan classic and a “must-do” on the island. I read that salt ice cream is the way to go, so I ordered a scoop of “salt cookie” but hedged my bets and ordered a second scoop of chocolate swirl, too. The salt cookie was okay, but I wasn’t a repeat customer. You’ll have to try it and see what you think.

Kabaya Brand Chocolate-Covered Almonds

These are almonds covered in rich milk chocolate and individually wrapped for an easy “grab-and-go.” Worth every penny… er… yen.

Chicago-style popcorn in Okinawa
Amazing popcorn; it even says so!
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

Chicago-Style Caramel And Cheese Mixed Popcorn

Popcorn is a go-to snack, and the American-influenced mix of caramel and cheddar is a classic combination. I especially enjoyed the “hard sell” of this packaging: “This popcorn is amazing! If you want to eat something good, this is it!”

Okinawa grocery store Kit-Kat bars
Grocery store shelves filled with a variety of Kit-Kat bars
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

Kit-Kat Candy Bars

The everyday, run-of-the-mill grocery store in Okinawa has an abundance of Kit-Kat candy bars. Japan sells some 300 regional and limited-edition flavors! Everything from the unusual but appealing green tea, azuki bean (peanut butter taste), and Sakura (cherry) flavors to more adventurous flavors like wasabi, purple beni imo (sound familiar?), apple vinegar, and vegetable juice! Why this Kit-Kat overload? Apparently, the candy bar moniker sounds an awful lot like the Japanese phrase “Kitto katsu” which means good luck or “surely win,” making it a popular gift for many occasions.

Sunset in Okinawa
The sun sets on another beautiful day of culinary delights in Okinawa.
Photo credit: Joan Sherman

Part of the fun of travel is enjoying food and flavors wherever you are. This was our first visit to Asia, and we (pardon the pun) ate it up. Seeing our beloved son was the highlight of our trip and sharing the foods unique to his home-away-from-home over conversation and laughter was so special and dear to me.

When you go, these six incredible dishes and foods will get you started on a unique Okinawan culinary journey. I encourage you to taste and see, and if you like it, to eat fully and drink deeply of the good things waiting for you in Okinawa.

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7 Fabulous Reasons To Visit The Beautiful Island Of Borneo https://www.travelawaits.com/2750297/best-things-to-do-borneo-island/ Fri, 22 Apr 2022 19:02:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2750297 suspension bridge in the forest of the Ulu Temburong National Park

Borneo — known for its rainforests, orangutans, the famous dive site of Sipadan, and the soaring peak at Mount Kinabalu — is a wonder to visit for the curious traveler. Borneo is the third-largest island in the world and is surrounded by the Java Sea to the south, the Celebes Sea to the east, and the South China Sea to the north. It is made up of four political regions: Sabah and Sarawak, two Malaysian states; Kalimantan, which belongs to Indonesia; and the small sultan state of Brunei.

I have been to Borneo twice, visiting three of its four political regions. What drew me to this exotic island was possibility. Would I see pygmy elephants and orangutans in the wild? Would I connect to a land and culture so different from my own? 

I wasn’t expecting to fall so hard for Borneo, to create unforgettable memories, nor to come away with a solid determination never to use palm oil again.

Kinabatangan River and john boats.
Ryasyanskiy / Shutterstock.com

1. Experience The Natural Wildlife On The Kinabatangan River 

Along the Kinabatangan River, in the Malaysian state of Sabah, is a small swath of protected natural rainforest providing an unforgettable opportunity to see orangutans, pygmy elephants, macaques, proboscis monkeys, and crocodiles in the wild. Ornithologists will be in heaven spotting kingfishers, rhinoceros hornbills, and plenty of other exotic bird species.

Taking a boat ride along the Kinabatangan River is the perfect way to soak up the sights and sounds of the Borneo rainforest. The highlight of both my trips to Borneo was seeing a herd of pygmy elephants, the smallest of the Asian elephants, swimming in the Kinabatangan River and silently watching from the boat as they took mud baths and trumpeted. The boat trips up and down the Kinabatangan River introduced me to new bird species and monkeys that I didn’t know existed. Watching monkeys leap from one bough to another and listening to their chatter never grows old.

I came away from my trips to the Kinabatangan River with a fierce determination to stop purchasing products that contain palm oil. When exploring the Kinabatangan River, sometimes the protected zone is so narrow that you can see the palm tree plantations. Riding the shuttle from Sandakan to the Kinabatangan River, the views are not as expected of the rainforest, instead, you’ll see row upon row of palm trees. This human impact on animal habitat left an indelible mark on me.

Getting To The Kinabatangan River

Fly to Sandakan from Kota Kinabalu. Alternately, take a 7-hour bus trip. A shuttle from your booked accommodation will pick you up in Sandakan for a 2-hour drive to the river.

Where To Stay Near The Kinabatangan River

I stayed at the Nature Lodge Kinabatangan twice. The rooms are simple and the tours are top notch.

Mother orangutan (orang-utan) with funny cute baby in Borneo (Kalimantan) island.
lukaszemanphoto / Shutterstock.com

2. See Orangutans In Borneo

Orangutans, whose name means “forest man,” are only found in the wild on the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. Orangutans are endangered due to the loss of their natural habitat, poachers, and the illegal pet trade.

They should abound in the wild. This land is their natural home where they build nests in soaring trees and the mothers raise their offspring, often staying together for 10 years. But the reality is that most visitors to Borneo will see orangutans in a rehabilitation center.

Sepilok, the orangutan rehabilitation center in Sabah, is situated in a forest reserve where the land is protected. The rehabilitation center, which was started in 1964, protects orangutans in Borneo and teaches young orphans to survive in the wild. Visiting at feeding time is a remarkable experience. The primates swing from the treetops to the feeding station, grab some bananas, and find a spot to sit back and enjoy their meal. Silently watching these creatures interact, feed, and play is unforgettable.

Where To Stay Near Sepilok

At the Sepilok Forest Edge Reserve, return to your paradise in the jungle after a day of seeing orangutans.

Rafflesia, the biggest flower in the world. This species located in Ranau Sabah, Borneo.
Malaysia Anna ART / Shutterstock.com

3. See The World’s Largest Flower In Borneo

Endemic to the rainforests of Borneo and Sumatra, the rafflesia arnoldii lily is a sight to see. Its bloom can grow up to 3 feet across and can weigh up to 15 pounds. This flower is parasitic as it has no visible leaves, roots, or stems and it is the world’s stinkiest flower. It is known as the “corpse flower” as it is pollinated by flies attracted to its emanating aroma of rotting flesh.

We heard through the grapevine at our lodging that there was a rafflesia blooming in Gunung Gading National Park, a conservation zone about 53 miles west of Kuching — Sarawak’s state capital. 

There is no time to waste if you are interested in seeing this unique reddish flower as it only stays in bloom for about 5 days.

Trekking through the heat, back and forth along the rugged jungle trails of Gunung Gading National Park, we finally spied (or smelt) the rafflesia in bloom. What a unique site!

SCUBA divers swimming by a resting sea turtle in the tropical ocean.
Daniel Wilhelm Nilsson / Shutterstock.com

4. Go Diving At Sipadan In Sabah

Situated in the Sulawesi Sea, Sipadan is a world-renowned destination for diving. Personally not a diver, I met plenty of travelers who raved about their dives at Sipadan. There are over 3,000 species of fish, hawksbill and green turtles, barracudas, manta rays, and sharks to be seen. Seeing photos from Sipadan divers is enough to encourage me to get certified to dive.

Starting in December 2020, Sipadan Island is closed to visitors every December to give the coral and marine life a quiet period. 

Pro Tip: It is no longer possible to stay on the island of Sipadan. Divers stay on one of the nearby islands and organize a day trip with one of the dive operators.

View of Ulu Temburong National Park or fathul park.
rui vale sousa / Shutterstock.com

5. Walk The Canopy Walkway In Ulu Temburong National Park, Brunei

The oil-rich sultan state of Brunei has had a no-cut policy in its rainforests since the 1990s. Today, the vast park of Ulu Temburong has a small area (one percent) that can be visited by the public.

Getting to the park involves two exhilarating boat rides through open bays and mangrove forests. One arrives by longboat at the park’s headquarters where you are greeted by a guide who will walk you deep into the virgin rainforest along trails and plankways to reach the canopy walkway. A series of steep stairways leads you to the canopy walkway which hovers at 164 feet over the forest floor. The views over the treetops of the rainforest are incredible.

Pro Tip: If you are afraid of heights, climbing all the stairs up to the top of the walkway is a bit nerve wracking. Even if you opt not to go all the way to the top, the trek through the forest is well worth the trip.

Mount Kinabalu with tropical landscape during morning with homestay.
Mount Kinabalu (Photo Credit: Lano Lan / Shutterstock.com)

6. Visit Kinabalu Park And Mount Kinabalu In Sabah

Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kinabalu Park, is one of the most important biological sites in the world. It is a haven for 4,500 species of flora and fauna. Nature lovers will be in heaven. Mount Kinabalu, the superstar of the park, is the highest mountain in Borneo and Malaysia with an elevation of 13,435 feet. Avid hikers apply well in advance for a permit to hike the peak, a 2-day, one-night climb. Other adventurers may wish to explore Mount Kinabalu using the Via Ferrata, an alternative climbing route.

Kinabalu Park has nine hiking trails of various lengths which can be accessed from the park headquarters. Venture off on your own or with a guide. Bird lovers, bring your binoculars!

Where To Stay Near Kinabalu Park

Sutera Sanctuary Lodges is a great place to come back to and relax after spending a day exploring Kinabalu Park. 

Pointer in Bako National Park, Sarawak, Borneo.
Malaysia Elena Odareeva / Shutterstock.com

7. Hike Bako National Park In Sarawak

When visiting Sarawak, spending a day at Bako National Park is a must. Arrive by boat and arrange with your driver for a pick up time and location. The superstar of Bako National Park, Sarawak’s oldest national park, is the proboscis monkey. Sitting on tree branches, these strange-looking, long-nosed, and round-bellied monkeys found only in Borneo will be watching you! Other wildlife to look for are macaques and silvered leaf monkeys with their wild grey hair framing their faces. Keep your eyes open for a splash of orange in the jungle. Baby silvered leaf monkeys are orange and may be seen clinging to their mother.

Bako National Park has 16 color-coded jungle hiking trails of various lengths and difficulties. There are steep cliffs, small bays, and sandy beaches for exploring. It is here that I had my first swim in the South China Sea.

Getting To Borneo

Decide where you want to start your explorations in Borneo. Daily direct flights from Kuala Lumpur arrive in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the Malaysian province of Sabah; Kuching, the capital of Sarawak; and Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei. There are also some direct flights to Borneo from Singapore.

Pro Tips

Comfortable and sturdy walking shoes are a must for any trip to Borneo. It’s hot and humid here. Make sure to venture out each day with plenty of drinking water. You may want to consider packing a change of clothes in your day pack.

For more adventures in and around Malaysia, check out these stories: 

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7 Unique Places To Dine In Singapore https://www.travelawaits.com/2745904/unique-restaurants-to-try-in-singapore/ Tue, 05 Apr 2022 23:30:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2745904 Aerial view of Singapore business district.
anek.soowannaphoom / Shutterstock.com

We’ve traveled widely and sampled the cuisines of all seven continents. If we were making a list of the best culinary adventures in the world, Singapore would be at the top. With 41 Michelin-starred and 69 Bib Gourmand restaurants and hawker stalls, Singapore has everything you could ask for at every price level, including Chinese, Indian, Malaysian, Korean, Japanese, Australian, French, a variety of western foods, and the uniquely fusion Peranakan cuisine.

You can find all of this in five-star restaurants or in one of the ubiquitous hawker centers found on the island. In addition to the variety of menus, there are many unique places to eat in Singapore — floating in a cable car above Sentosa, in a historic Peranakan museum, or even on the largest tall ship in Asia.

Here are seven unique places to enjoy the culinary arts in Singapore (in no particular order).

Sue & Reggie at Ocean Restaurant with fish in background.
Authers Sue & Reggie (Photo Credit: Reggie Ang Travel For Life Now)

1. Ocean Restaurant

Imagine dining next to the largest aquarium you’ve ever seen. Giant manta rays, hammerhead sharks, and colorful fish swim a few feet away from your table while you dine on an exquisitely cooked meal. That’s what you’ll experience at Ocean Restaurant.

The restaurant is in the Equarius Hotel right next to the S.E.A. Aquarium’s largest observation tank. The wall of windows is mesmerizing — we were watching so much that we forgot to eat. On top of that, Ocean only cooks sustainably harvested fish and meat. The dishes that we had were prepared perfectly — the Australian steak and the barramundi (Asain sea bass) were cooked to perfection. Make sure to leave room for dessert. There is a set menu with additional wine pairings if desired.

Pro Tips

Ocean serves lunch and dinner. Reserve in advance and ask for a table right next to the tank. The restaurant is currently undergoing refurbishment and will reopen soon. 

Equarius Hotel is located in Sentosa. You can arrive via the Sentosa Express from VivoCity and then a shuttle from Michael’s Hotel. Alternatively, you can take a taxi directly to Ocean.

Inside The Intan Museum.
Sue Davies Travel For Life Now

2. The Intan

Peranakan culture is unique to Singapore (as well as to Penang and Malacca). In the 1800s, many men left China to seek their fortunes, migrating through Malaysia to Singapore. On route, some married Malay women and adopted the food and language but not the Muslim religion. What evolved over time is called Peranakan culture. The uniquely and creative blended cuisine is best found in Singapore, Malacca, and Penang.

There is no better way to learn about Peranakan history and food than at The Intan. A tour of the museum with Alvin Yapp is a treasure trove of Peranakan history, artifacts, and culture. Alvin comes from a Peranakan family and is the collector, founder, and curator of the museum. A meal at The Intan will awaken your tastebuds to a new world of spices and aromas.

For the most immersive experience, try the Intan Private Dining Experience (lunch or dinner). Come hungry — it is a seven-course meal, including Ngoh Hiang (meat roll), Otak Otak (a spicy fish cake grilled and wrapped in banana leaf), Ayam Buah Keluak (chicken in a thick tamarind gravy), and Babi Pongteh (pork belly braised in fermented soybean paste). For dessert, you’ll have a chance to try our personal favorite: Chendol — shaved ice with Pandan jelly, coconut milk, and gula melaka (palm sugar). If you prefer lighter fare, the Tea Experience includes a variety of Kuehs (mostly rice flour and coconut-based desserts) as well as tea. 

Pro Tips

You must make an appointment to visit The Intan. Due to Current COVID restrictions, you’ll need to book a private tour to enjoy one of the meals or tea services. The closest MRT to The Intan is the Eunos Station, a 15-minute walk. We recommend taking a taxi instead. There are some lovely Peranakan Houses a few blocks away.

View of Sentosa while cable car dining.
Sue Davies Travel For Life Now

3. Cable Car Sky Dining

We have ridden the cable car from Singapore over to Sentosa many times in the past. Recently, we discovered that you could dine in one of the cable cars while floating along over the city and the bay. The panoramic aerial views are stunning.

Reggie Ang Travel For Life Now

Boarding from Mt. Faber Station, you are escorted to your very own cable car which is prepared by the staff of Arbora restaurant. You get a welcome drink and are then served a four-course dinner bento box style (due to COVID). You have a choice of a Japanese destination-themed, Singapore Flavors, Sky High Bento, or even a Champagne Cabin. We had the Singapore Flavors. The serving was large and the meat and fish flavorful and tender. We were delighted when the doors opened at Mt. Faber after the first-round trip and a lovely ice cream and fruit dessert was served.

Pro Tips

Make sure to reserve in advance. You board at the Faber Peak Station. Alternatively, you can take the MRT to Harbourfront. Board the cable car over at Harbourfront Station to Mt. Faber (the transfer is included in your ticket).

View of the Royal Albatross at sea (taken from the Cable Car).
Reggie Ang Travel For Life Now

4. Royal Albatross

The Royal Albatross is the largest tall ship in Asia. You may have caught a glimpse of it already — it made an appearance as Bruce Wayne’s yacht in the Dark Knight movie.

It is now the setting for the perfect romantic sunset cruise — a 2.5-hour dinner cruise. It comes complete with a pre-sail aperitif and a five- or seven-course meal with wine pairing options. You will experience lovely sea breezes while sailing past the southern islands over Singapore’s calm waters. For the city cruise, the ship sails past Marina Bay and the city skyline.

There are also breakfast cruises for those preferring to enjoy the experience in the morning. You can even book a “pawfect” dog cruise with your four-legged pal.

The Royal Albatross is a very popular spot for weddings and proposals. We hear that many proposals have been made while couples are climbing up the mast!

Pro Tips

Bookings tend to be sold out a month ahead so check out the website for availability. The Royal Albatross is moored next to SEA Aquarium in Sentosa.

Our meal of the Prawns that we caught at ORTO.
Sue Davies Travel For Life Now

5. Prawn Fishing At ORTO

Singaporean friends of ours are regulars at ORTO. While we’d been there for fishing, we’d never tried prawning until recently. It was a blast. The first prawn we caught, we were so excited that we knocked over our chairs. There were a few amused looks from the other prawners. After that, we waited and waited for another bite. We got a bite and it got away. Then we waited for the next. That’s the experience of prawn fishing.

After you’ve fished for a few hours, it’s time to take your catch and cook it. Hopefully you’ll have more than the six prawns we caught. We were lucky, our neighbors were expert prawners and they gave their catch to us, so we had enough for a meal. You can grill the prawns on-site (currently suspended due to COVID) or bring them to the nearby restaurant and have them cook for you.

Pro Tip

ORTO is a short walk from the Khatib MRT. Fish@Bugis is another place for prawning.

View of Chinatown from Dorothy's.
Chinatown (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel For Life Now)

6. Dorothy’s Bar

In the heart of Chinatown, at the junction of Temple and Trengganu Streets, there is a Wizard of Oz-themed bar called Dorothy’s — for friends of Dorothy’s (LGBTQ+). We were exploring Chinatown and taking a break when we spotted a rainbow flag flying from the second story above a plant shop. We decided to check it out and had cocktails from the Wizard along with some appetizers. The drinks are inventive — we had the Oz Pandan Vodka and the Lychee Martini. You can also order a drink called Ruby Slippers or Glinda Gria. It is a great place to watch the crowds in Chinatown.

Opened in 2015 in one of the oldest gay heritage sites, Dorothy’s is a safe place. You can mingle with the locals and find out more about the LGBTQ+ scene in Singapore.

Pro Tip

Dorothy’s is located at 13a Trengganu Street; the nearest MRT is Chinatown. There are other LGBTQ+ bars and cafés in the area.

Marina Bay Sands Night view from Ce La Vi Lounge.
Sue Davies Travel For Life Now

7. Ce La Vi On Top Of Marina Bay Sands

Fancy having a drink with tapas at the rooftop bar 57 floors above sea level? With an expansive view of Marina Bay, central business district, Art Science Museum, and the city of Singapore spread out before you, Marina Bay Sands is a magical experience.

The top floor of the iconic Marina Bay Sands has restaurants, bars, and lounges alongside the world’s most Instagrammed infinity pool. You can purchase a ticket to the observation deck, take a sunrise or sunset yoga class, or stay at the hotel. Our favorite way is to have drinks and food at one of the lounges or restaurants to see the sunset and the city lights. The drinks are very good, and the food is excellent.

Pro Tip

Book your table in advance and make sure to say that you want it to be outside. If the weather is bad (Singapore sometimes has torrential rains), your reservation will need to be rescheduled.

There are more unique places to dine in Singapore that we have not had the chance to experience yet. The Smith Marine Floating Kelong, the Singapore Flyer, and Seok Seng Bicycle Café are at the top of our list for our next trip to Singapore.

Check out all of Sue and Regina’s Singapore content: 

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How To Eat At A Michelin Starred Restaurant For Under $10 In Singapore https://www.travelawaits.com/2737575/tips-for-eating-at-michelin-star-restaurant-in-singapore/ Wed, 09 Mar 2022 00:04:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2737575 Chuan Kee Boneless Braised Duck Bib Gourmand Award

We’ve eaten at many Michelin-starred restaurants all over the world. Dining at one often involves making reservations far in advance, dressing up (any time we are not in shorts counts as dressing up), and making our way into places we don’t ordinarily frequent. The food is usually worth the effort and the expense, though we’ve eaten at a few that did not live up to expectations.

Singapore offers an entirely different experience. Sure, there are very exclusive, expensive, and exquisite restaurant experiences to be had. At the same time, you can eat in a Michelin-starred restaurant or hawker stall for less than $10. 

In addition, there are dozens of places that have been given Bib Gourmand awards for “exceptionally good food at moderate prices.”

You can have an excellent meal at any of the places on this list for under $10.

Tai Hwa Eating House  Bak Chor Mee (Pork Noodles). This is where you can eat a Michelin starred meal for under $10.
Bak Chor Mee (Pork Noodles) (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle

Currently, Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle is the only place in Singapore to eat a Michelin-starred meal for under $10. The specialty here is bak chor mee, or minced pork noodles. Not only is the food good, but it’s also a uniquely Singaporean dish.

Bak chor mee contains noodles, pork, pork liver, dumplings, lard, fried fish sole, minced meat, and meatballs. It’s cooked in a vinegar and chili-based sauce. It’s flavorful and the noodles are perfectly chewy. Each dish is cooked to order. You can order it wet (with soup in the same bowl), or dry (soup on the side).

You’ll know that you’ve arrived at Hill Street when you see the long queue. It is open-air and covered, but there is no air conditioning. If you arrive during peak hours, expect to wait an hour or more.

Hill Street has had a Michelin star since 2016. The owner (Tang Joon Teo) decided not to expand to other locations. There are other members of the family that serve bak chor mee, but the Crawford Street location is the only one with a Michelin star.

Location: Tai Hwa Eating House, Block 466 Crawford Lane #01-12

The original Hawker Chan stall in the Chinatown Complex. This was the cheapest Michelin starred meal in the world from 2016-2019.
The original Hawker Chan Stall (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

Hawker Chan’s Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle

From 2016-2021, Hawker Chan’s held the distinction of the cheapest Michelin one-starred meal in the world — a plate of soya sauce chicken cost $2.50. Unfortunately, Hawker Chan lost its star in 2021.

Located in the Chinatown Complex Food (Hawker) Center, Hawker Chan serves juicy, well-seasoned soya sauce chicken from an original recipe created by Chef Chan Hon Meng. It is served with rice, sliced cucumbers, and peanuts. We also tried the char siu with rice, which is perfectly seasoned and moist. In addition to soya sauce chicken, Hawker Chan serves a few other traditional dishes.

After the Michelin star was awarded, Liao Fan re-branded as Hawker Chan and expanded into a restaurant across the street. There are now four locations in Singapore in addition to the original hawker stall as well as franchises in six countries. Some in Singapore feel that the Michelin star was lost because the expansion has impacted the quality of the original stall.

Expect a long line at the hawker stall in the Chinatown complex. It’s the place where the locals and tourists both eat. It’s crowded, noisy, and full of great hawker stalls. If you need air conditioning, you can try Hawker Chan’s restaurant right across the street.

Original Location: Chinatown Complex Food Centre #02-126. The Hawker Chan restaurant is across the street.

Michelin Bib Gourmand Awardees

The Michelin Bib Gourmand award is given to restaurants that serve high-quality food at reasonable prices. Singapore has 69 restaurants and hawker stalls that have received this designation. We can’t cover all of them, so we have selected eight of our favorites.

J2 Curry Puffs being made.
J2 Curry Puffs (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff

A perennial Bib Gourmand selection, J2 Crispy Curry Puffs serves some of the very best curry puffs in Singapore. The crust is flaky and light, and the insides (curried potatoes, black pepper chicken, or sardines) are well-seasoned. Lee Meng Li was working the stall with his son Malcolm when we stopped by. They only make 500 curry puffs a day and close when they run out.

Location: Amoy Street Food Centre (#01-21)

Hong Kee Beef Noodle

This hawker stall has been in operation in various locations for 60 years. The savory dish contains beef slices, beef balls, and salted vegetables. The sauce is cooked for 24 hours and adds wonderful nuances to the flavoring. You can order the noodles wet (as a soup) or dry. Expect a long line if you arrive during lunch.

Location: Amoy Street Food Centre (#01-42)

Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee Bib Gourmand Award.
Mee Bib (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

Outram Park Char Kway Teow

We love char kway teow and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to sample the wares at Outram Park. We arrived before the lunch rush and still waited 30 minutes. It was worth the wait. The noodles were luscious with plentiful and juicy cockles, bean sprouts, and fried pork lard.

Location: Hong Lim Market and Food Centre (#02-17)

Tai Wah Pork Noodle

Directly facing Outram Park Char Kway Teow, you’ll find another long line for Tai Wah Pork Noodle. Don’t confuse this with the Michelin one-starred Hill Street Tai Hwa. They both serve bak chor mee (minced pork noodles). This one is run by the nephew and the recipe is slightly different. This hawker stall was awarded the Bib Gourmand award. It’s most known for the dry (soup on the side) version. Each dish is cooked to order. We arrived before the lunch rush and waited 50 minutes.

Location: Hong Lim Market and Food Centre (#02-16)

Famous Sungei Road Trishaw Laksa

Laksa is a quintessential Singapore dish, and Famous Sungei Road Trishaw makes one of the best. The spicy curry broth has less coconut milk than some other versions and it has generous helpings of sliced fishcake, dried shrimp, oysters, scallops, and fresh shrimp. It’s not overly spicy. You can also eat mee siam at this stall, another Malaysian-influenced dish.

Location: Hong Lim Market and Food Centre (#02-66)

Chef Kang Noodle House Char Sui and Noodles Bib Gourmand Award.
Char Sui and Noodles Bib (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

Chef Kang Noodle House

Located in Jackson Square, Toa Payoh, Chef Kang serves wonton mee. The springy and chewy noodles are imported from Hong Kong. They are delicious. There are only three dishes on the menu — noodles with char siew and wonton; noodles with abalone, char siew, and wonton; and pork belly char siew. The char siew is the perfect blend of sweet and char.

Location: 11 Lor 3 Toa Payoh, Block B, Jackson Square

Chuan Kee Boneless Braised Duck

The braised duck served at Chuan Kee truly stands out. The serving of duck is generous, and the braising sauce is very tasty, with just the right amount of sauce. The noodles are tender and soft.

Location: Ghim Moh Market and Food Center (#01-04).

Bedok Chwee Kueh

In 2019, Bedok Chwee Kueh is the first chwee kueh stall in Singapore to be awarded the Bib Gourmand award. Chwee kueh is a rice flour patty topped with preserved radish. The bottom is silky smooth while the topping is savory with a slight hint of spice.

Location: The original Stall is at Bedok Interchange Hawker Centre (#01-19). There are other stalls at Clementi 448, Chinatown Centre, Ang Mo Kio Ave 4, and elsewhere.

Pro Tips 

Singapore is famous for its hawker centers — large food courts with dozens of stalls surrounding tables for eating. It’s where the locals eat, and you find the best and most inexpensive food in Singapore. They are generally open-air and covered (with no air conditioning).

For most of the hawker stalls listed above, arrive early (11:15-ish for lunch) or expect to wait in a long line. In addition, many sell out early in the day.

Many stalls in hawker centers are closed on Mondays. Others may be open only at certain times or only a few days a week. You can search online for the most up-to-date information on opening hours/days.

Stalls have numbers on the top right-hand corner. For instance, #02-17 means that the stall is on the second floor, number 17. That’s how to locate a particular stall on this list.

Many of the places that we’ve recommended are not found in touristy areas (except for Chinatown). These hawker centers are where Singaporeans eat and will give you authentic experiences of eating in Singapore.

Singapore is a Disneyland for foodies, and there are many more places we could have included. We’ve had our best meals going to a new hawker center and finding the stall with the longest line. Other times, we’ve gone with a certain stall in mind. Either way, you’ll seldom have a bad meal in Singapore.

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My 16 Favorite Nighttime Activities In Singapore https://www.travelawaits.com/2731732/best-things-to-do-in-singapore-at-night/ Thu, 17 Feb 2022 23:04:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2731732 View of Marina Bay Sands from the Esplanade at Sunset

Singapore is a gorgeous city at night. The sun goes down, the heat and humidity dissipate, and it’s time for strolling. There are tons of interesting things to do in the evenings, lively hawker centers, Michelin-starred restaurants, gardens galore, and beautiful views from the water, the quays, and the air. There is something for everyone to do, see, and experience.

We easily could write a list of 50 things to do, but we’ve narrowed it down to the top 16.

1. Have A Cocktail In The Clouds At Marina Bay Sands

Everyone who has thought about visiting Singapore has seen a photo of Marina Bay Sands Hotel. It is an iconic and engineering marvel with the world’s highest and longest infinity pool. If you are not staying there, stop by for cocktails at sunset and you will be treated to unparalleled views over the bay as the sun sets slowly over the Singapore River.

2. Take A Night Safari

The Singapore Zoo Night Safari is a unique experience for everyone, especially children. Being in the zoo at night means hearing the lions roar and seeing the otters running about. You can take a tram ride, walk the trails around the park, or go early and do both. We recommend making time to see the Creatures of the Night Show.

If you get there early enough, you can take the tram twice — once as the light is fading and again in the dark after the Show.

Supertrees at Night in Gardens by the Bay.
Regina Ang Travel for Life Now

3. Enjoy The Gardens By The Bay And Supertrees Light Show

We love the Supertrees at Gardens By The Bay. The trees are 16-stories-high, vertical gardens, and impressive to view during the day. At night, they are beautifully lit up. There is a short music and light show that we always make time to see. The trees have observation decks and a walkway. 

Pro Tip: You can’t see the light show from the observation deck but there are plenty of places to view the trees in the park.

4. Watch The Marina Bay Sands Spectra Show

The Spectra Show at Marina Bay Sands is a wonderful experience. The fountains, lights, and music show is choreographed beautifully. If you watch from the lower level, you feel the mist from the fountains (and may get your camera wet). It’s our favorite place to watch. Get there early for the best spot.

5. Appreciate The Views From The Esplanade

An evening stroll along the Esplanade is a magical experience with the best views of the iconic Marina Bay Sands and the Art Science Museum. You can also see the Merlion from a distance. If you are lucky, there will be a free outdoor concert in the amphitheater. Check out the performances — some free, others not — at Theaters on the Bay.

Chong Fah Cheong's chang kuda sculpture at night, Singapore Botanic Gardens.
Chong Fah Cheong’s chang kuda sculpture at night (Photo Credit: Regina Ang Travel For Life Now)

6. Revel In The Botanic Gardens

Most people go to the Botanic Gardens during the day. A little-known fact is that the gardens are open until midnight. Bring a picnic dinner and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. The fragrance of the garden is particularly enticing at night.

7. Spend Time In Little India

Fancy Indian food? Singapore has some of the best (outside of India, of course). Go to one of the restaurants in Little India for dinner and then top it off with a shopping trip to Mustafa Centre — an iconic Singapore experience. Mustafa’s is open 24 hours a day and it could take that long to peruse all that it has. Stop by the supermarket on the second level to stock up on Indian and other Asian spices.

Walking around Haji Lane.
Sue Davies Travel for Life Now

8. Shop In The Boutiques On Haji Lane In The Kampong Glam

Kampong Glam is the home of the Sultan Mosque. It is a beautiful mosque and the center of the Muslim community in Singapore. Stop by to admire and take some photos. A few short blocks away, you’ll find Haji Lane, one of the hippest areas of the city. Bars, restaurants, boutiques, and some amazing street art. It’s a great place for cocktails and strolling.

Authors Sue and Reggie Cable Car Dining.
Regina Ang Travel for Life Now

9. Dine Over The City In A Cable Car

For an entirely unique experience, have dinner in a cable car while riding over Singapore. You’ll see Mount Faber, Sentosa, Keppel Bay, and more from 100 meters in the air. The three-course meal complete with champagne or sake is almost as good as the view. Cable Car Sky Dining is a unique way to enjoy an evening as the sun starts to set.

West Coast Park, over the water, at sunset.
Sue Davies Travel for Life Now

10. Catch The Sunset At West Coast Park

West Coast Park is a sprawling 50-hectare park located at the southern part of the island. The park faces the south harbor and is very peaceful, quiet, and serene. You will find many joggers, families with kids, or dogs enjoying an evening run or stroll. Given its location on the island, it is one of the better places to watch the setting sun as it descends in the distance. Shipping is one of the most important industries in Singapore — you’ll see some of the container ships docked in the harbor.

Bumboat tour of the Singapore River
Bumboat tour of the Singapore River (Photo Credit: Regina Ang Travel for Life Now)

11. See The City From The Singapore River

Give yourself a different perspective of Singapore from the river by taking an evening bumboat ride. Feel the evening breezes from the river and see the skyline light up as you cruise the Singapore River, passing by Clarke and Boat quays, and Marina Bay Sands. You will also learn about the history of the Singapore River and its contribution to trade in the 18th century.

12. Take In The Atmosphere At CHIJMES

CHIJMES, known previously as the Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus Middle Education School started life as a Catholic Convent back in the 18th century. Town Convent, as it was called, was founded in 1854 by an order of French nuns. Today, parts of the building are designated as a national monument. Now, it’s a full of cafés and restaurants. You can lounge on the “mini” lawn, play games, and enjoy the atmosphere. During Christmas and the Holidays, there is a lovely light show on the interior buildings.

Chinatown at Night. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple.
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

13. See And Sense Chinatown At Night

Chinatown after dark is a different experience than during the day. Restored shophouses are transformed into bars, bistros, and speakeasies. This is the place to go to for a late supper — especially if you have been out partying and hungry at 1 a.m. This is also the area to find LGBTQ+ nightlife.

Look up, sometimes the bars are housed in the upper levels of a shop house and may not be obvious from street level. We stumbled upon a gay bar, Dorothy’s, when we caught sight of the flying rainbow flag hanging over the 2nd floor balcony above a plant shop.

14. Walk The Lights Along Orchard Road

If you are in Singapore during Christmas, take a walk along Orchard Road to see the annual

Christmas light-up. There is a different theme each year. In 2022, it was Christmas in Bloom. In addition to getting some shopping done, you’ll see thousands of strings of lights (estimated to be over 42 miles long) along Orchard Road. Starting in mid-November, the lights are usually lit for about 7 weeks. 

Sue Davies Travel for Life Now

15. Enjoy A Romantic Dinner And A Stroll Along Clarke Quay

Located at the mouth of the Singapore River, Clarke Quay (pronounced “key”) served prominently in the 18th century as a loading quay with warehouses serving the bustling trade activity. Today, these charming shophouses are historically conserved and converted into restaurants, with tables spilling out onto the sidewalk for an alfresco dining experience.

The evening breeze cools you while you enjoy Singapore famous dishes like chili crab, washed down with Tiger beer, a home-grown brew. If you’re in the mood for international cuisines — Mexican, Japanese, Italian, Spanish, and Greek — you’ll find it here as well.

There are plenty of other activities in the Quay. If you are an adrenaline junkie, try the Slingshot or the Extreme Swing over the Singapore River. If yoga’s more your thing, take an evening outdoor yoga class in the Quay.

16. Take In The View From The Swissotel — The Stamford

Unable to get a reservation at any of the bars and restaurants up on the rooftop of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel? The next best alternative is to get a drink at the SKAI Bar up on the 70th floor of Swissotel — The Stamford. The hotel is one of the tallest in Singapore with amazing views of the harbor and financial district.

Pro Tips

The Asian Civilization Museum and the National Gallery are both located within walking distance of Clarke Quay. Plan to spend a few leisurely hours looking at current exhibits and then take a water taxi or cruise around the Singapore River before ending up along the Quay for dinner.

You can combine the Supertrees show, and the Marina Bay Sands show in the same evening. They are walking distance apart and a crowd usually walks from one to the other. Check the timing as it may change. 

Check the schedule for the Marina Bay Sand Spectra Show before you go — the show has been on hiatus due to COVID-19.

There is so much more to do at night in Singapore — the Skyline Luge and Wings of Time Show at Sentosa, the Singapore Flyer, roller skating, axe throwing, prawn fishing, evening bike tours, and much, much more. Our advice — get out and explore. You’ll be rewarded with fantastic experiences.

For more unique experiences in Singapore and around Asia, check out these stories:

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The Unique Neighborhoods Perfect For An Overnight Stay When Visiting Beijing https://www.travelawaits.com/2731981/beijing-hutong-neighborhood-overnight-stay/ Thu, 17 Feb 2022 22:05:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2731981 landscape of hutong beijing

The hutongs, pronounced more like “hoh’tong” in Mandarin, are narrow lanes and alleys hemmed by one or two-story residences called siheyuan, which in turn surround a courtyard on four sides. If you were to look at a hutong area from above, you’d find many of them – but certainly not all of them – exhibiting a quite symmetrical, boxy layout with two outer sides of the siheyuans forming a hutong lane, while behind, and away from view, there would be private courtyards. 

Tourists walking at Yandan (Pipe) hutong an ancient street.
Ancient Hutong, Yudan (Pipe) (Photo Credit: Katoosha / Shutterstock.com)

Hutongs, which were first established in the Yuan Dynasty (A.D. 1279 to 1368), were found in many northern Chinese cities, but they are most commonly associated with Beijing. They represent the residential neighborhoods of old Beijing, and even if the general layout may be similar to temple complexes even parts of the Imperial Forbidden City, the hutongs were for commoners rather than royal residents. That said, the siheyuans differed enormously in size according to income and location, with the higher-ranking people living to the east and west of the Imperial Palace and in closer proximity.

Sadly, in the mid-1900s, many hutong neighborhoods were demolished to make way for progress, the widening of streets, and the building of more modern residences. 

Each hutong has a name, often given for a nearby sight or landmark, or famous names, even food or animals, and has its own identity. Even if not listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a large number of them now enjoy protection and are often being reinvented as artist quarters with many galleries found in the ancient complexes. There are plenty of them around to discover, with figures suggesting that in the Qing Dynasty, there were some 2,077 hutongs; in 1944 there were even more, with numbers reported of around 3,200 hutongs; while in 2007, a mere 1,500-odd hutongs remained. Still, there are plenty to see.

With hutongs being individual lanes, it is at times difficult to recommend which ones to see, but here, for the sake of ease, I will mostly talk about neighborhoods made up of a larger number of hutongs.

Main entrance gate and axis North-South to Olympic Park, Jingshan Park, Beijing, China
Historic Jungsha Park and North-South Olympic Park (Photo Credit: gyn9037 / Shutterstock.com)

Stay In A Historic Setting

When traveling to countries where the culture is distinctly different from what I am used to, I love staying in historic hotels and areas to get a better feeling of where I am. Wake up in a 5-star hotel of a worldwide chain, and you could be pretty much anywhere in the world, but wake up in a typical and historic hotel, and the plumbing may be slightly different, but you certainly know you are not in Kansas anymore (to paraphrase Dorothy).

I stayed in the Jingshan Garden Hotel, a renovated siheyuan in a Sanyanjing hutong just off Jingshan Garden Park and steps away from the Forbidden City. The initial approach was somewhat fraught, considering my taxi could not get into the hutong lane, and I was not traveling light. But that is the joy of hutongs; the lane was not only narrow but full of day-to-day bits and pieces from the residents, from garbage bins to chickens and rabbits in cages. When I finally arrived at the entrance, I thought this was a tiny little place, but once in the courtyard and seeing the buildings surrounding it, I appreciated the wonder of its privacy and thought about how lovely it must be to live there with the extended family – a little idyll in a buzzing city.

My hotel was lovely, and while it was only three stars, it had an en suite bathroom, looked out across the rooftops toward the Forbidden City, had a small restaurant and bar, and the staff was wonderful when it came to helping me organize tours and book drivers.

For a perfect Beijing stay, I cannot recommend any hotel more than a tiny hutong hotel, and especially the Jingshan Garden Hotel, as it is one of the more authentic ones. 

Beijing Hot Pot.
Beijing Hot Pot (Photo Credit: YANG YIDONG / Shutterstock.com)

Eat Traditionally

When it comes to typically Chinese, or typically Beijing delicacies, we have probably all heard of Peking duck and dumplings, and maybe even the warming Mongolian hotpot. But there are so many variations in between, so much food that is more likely being eaten for breakfast or for dinner, that this is an entire science to itself. In the hutong alleys, you are more likely to come across small cafes and stalls that serve typical food than in any of the more modern parts of Beijing. Even then, it is good to have some help. 

One enjoyable way to find new food is by taking a breakfast walking tour, on which you eat your way through the hutong’s best breakfast stalls with your guide at hand to explain everything. For dinner, you simply have to try roast Peking duck, and the Liqun Roast Duck restaurant in a hutong is very authentic and lacks the flashiness of some of the larger chain restaurants. You might want to get your hotel concierge to talk through the directions with your driver, as it is a little hidden away.

Tourists riding the traditional rickshaw in old Hutongs
Traditional Rickshaw (Photo Credit: Kraft_Stoff / Shutterstock.com)

Have Fun Exploring

The hutongs can be explored in three ways: on foot, by bicycle, and the most fun way: by rickshaw. Ideally, you can combine walking and rickshaw riding. Go by rickshaw first to get your bearings, then walk back and explore in a bit more detail. But note that there are regular scams with rickshaw drivers demanding more than the agreed price, so make sure that you agree on a price and the currency, depending on the length of the tour, the price in yuan should be between 150-250. Yuan, not dollars! If you are staying at the Jingshan Garden Hotel, then the Baocaho Hutong is within walking distance and has the added attractions of the Drum and Bell Towers, built in the 1200s, to announce time to the neighborhood. There will be rickshaw drivers hanging around the towers waiting for customers.

Look Behind The Scenes

What the hutongs provide most is a unique look behind the scenes of “normal” old Beijing away from the Imperial courts. Here you can still find out what made old Beijing tick, how common people lived and still live in the neighborhoods, often with habits quite unchanged over the centuries. While walking around will give you some idea, it is the specialized tours with local guides that will offer you the most insights into strange hobbies such as cricket fighting, which has thrilled Beijingers for millennia. Just to assure you, this is not a blood sport. Reportedly, the crickets do not die or get hurt. Instead, they are tiny trained fighters, as you would find out on this tour. Alternatively, if you are not into cricket sports (pun intended), then maybe something arty? This day tour teaches you all about the art of paper cutting and painting the inside of snuff bottles, both highly skilled crafts which have been practiced locally for a long time. All through the day, your guide will let you into the secrets of life in the hutongs, and you will leave with a whole new appreciation of the other side of Beijing and its day-to-day history.

View of various choice of China made souvenir display on shelves at Beijing Wangfujing Night Market.
Beijing Wangfujing Night Market (Photo Credit: TY Lim / Shutterstock.com)

Get Ahold Of Some Art

You will find art everywhere in the hutongs, including local arts and crafts, silk paintings, watercolors, and more. In the hutongs between the quite touristy Nanluoguxiang market and the Wudaoying hutong, I bought a couple of beautiful little paintings of the hutongs, which are taking pride of place in my living room. A lot of the stuff sold in the souvenir shops is mass-produced, but you will come across plenty of small studios where you see the artists at work, and they are all very pleased to have you take a look and hopefully make a sale. Unfortunately, I can not remember the name of the little shop I visited, but you will find plenty when strolling through the narrow lanes.

Pro Tip: This might be too much information for you, but I always check out the availability of public toilets when I am out and about exploring. In the hutongs, you might just come up short. In the old days, many hundreds of residents would have shared the same bathroom, and though modern plumbing is much more advanced, you are best on the lookout for any western-style café along the way to pop in for a brief interlude, because what you might find, or indeed not find, in the hutongs, may not leave you terribly enthusiastic.

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7 Reasons To Use The 72-Hour Transit Visa On Arrival In Beijing https://www.travelawaits.com/2727821/72-hour-transit-visa-in-beijing-china/ Wed, 16 Feb 2022 18:31:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2727821 Beijing, China cityscape

China had been on my to-visit list for years and years. But somehow the opportunity to visit never arrived. When one day my husband told me he was going to have to go to Beijing for business, I vowed to come along. Only, it turned out, I could not get a visa. Why? Because I was a German national living in France, and to apply for a visa I had to apply in the same country my passport was from. Somehow, my husband’s company managed to get him a visa, despite being an Englishman in France, on business grounds. But even though they tried to help me with mine, it simply did not happen.

Utterly distraught at the missed opportunity, I started looking into how I could get to China without having to go to Germany as well, and I came across the 72-hour transit visa. Luckily, I had also always wanted to go to Hong Kong, which, despite officially being part of China, is for the transit visa classed as a foreign destination. In the end, sometime after the business trip, we booked flights to Hong Kong via Beijing, and within minutes of arriving at Beijing Daxing International Airport had secured a stamp in our passports allowing us to spend 72 hours in Beijing before moving on to Hong Kong. Not enough time to see all of China, but enough time to look around Beijing and get a taste for future visits. Visas permitting.

Here are some good reasons why this 72-hour transit visa might just be useful to you as well.

1. It Is Quick And Easy

Unless you hold a passport from Singapore, Brunei, or Japan, you will need a visa if you wish to stay for longer than 72 hours (or, in some cities, 144 hours — see below) in China. But the application for a 30-day tourist visa presents you with many hoops to jump through, from having to provide the embassy with photographs, proof of residency, copies of your flight tickets and hotel bookings, an invitation letter, travel record, health declaration, as well as declarations as to potential business interests, say if you are a freelance writer, for example. The paperwork is endless, the questions personal, and the process can be lengthy. And all of this obviously depends also on what kind of passport you hold and which country you reside in and arrive from.

If you are an expat like I am, it is practically impossible to obtain a Chinese visa in a country that is not your own, and U.S. citizens born in a number of countries, such as Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Nigeria, and others, have some additional processes to go through.

But with the Transit Visa, you arrive, show your onward ticket that states that you are flying out within an allotted time from arrival in Beijing, and two minutes later you’re in and on your way to ancient sights such as the Forbidden City or the Great Wall. This is true at the time of writing for citizens of 53 countries, including the EU, Great Britain, the U.S., and Canada, among others.

The main problem with the transit visa is that you cannot buy round-trip tickets as you need to fly into another destination via China, but this also offers the opportunity to see two places instead of one.

Pro Tip: Your first visa-free hour starts at midnight on the day of your arrival. So, if you arrive at 7 a.m. local time in Beijing, your visa-free time officially begins at midnight that day, meaning you would lose seven hours. Book your flights accordingly.

Aerial view of shanghai (Photo Credit: fuyu liu / Shutterstock.com)

2. You Might Even Get To Stay Longer

Whereas Beijing only had a 72-hour transit visa on arrival when I traveled, there are other cities within China, such as Shanghai and Jiangsu, where this option has been extended to 144 hours, or six days. It seems that now Beijing has the option of a 144-hour visa as well, reportedly giving you three transit visa options: 24-hours, three days, and six days, which is even better news.

Visitors enjoy the sunset at Seminyak (Kuta) Bali - Indonesia
Seminyak (Kuta) Bali – Indonesia (Photo Credit: Setiono Joko Purwanto / Shutterstock.com)

3. It Is Perfect For A Stopover

Clearly flying all the way somewhere only to get three days in China is extreme, but if you are heading on vacation somewhere in Asia, the transit visa allows you the perfect opportunity for a stopover to break up the journey, which is always a good idea to stave off jetlag and let your soul catch up to your body along the way. You can turn one vacation into two this way, adding some Chinese history to your beach vacay in Bali, maybe?

Red Handle Rubber Stamper and Expatriate text.
bangoland / Shutterstock.com

4. An Option For Expatriates

If you are an expatriate living in another country from that of your passport, then the transit visa is by far the easiest option. Of course, if you happen to be visiting back home and are staying long enough for the visa process to go through, go for it, but if you are living somewhere completely different from your country of birth, getting a Chinese visa can be hard, if not impossible. So, instead, transit through Beijing (or another participating Chinese city) without having to experience the upset of a rejected visa application.

Ice building. Harbin International Ice and Snow Festival. Located in Harbin, Heilongjiang, China.
Harbin International Ice and Snow Festival, Heilongjiang, China (Photo Credit: aphotostory / Shutterstock.com)

5. Perfect For A Long Weekend

If you are coming from the U.S. or Canada, China for the weekend might be a little too far away, but many of us are dotted around the globe, and this vast country may well be in reach for a long weekend. And, be it Beijing, whose main historic sights are eminently doable in three days, or say, Harbin, whose Ice Festival is fabulous to see, but whose extreme temperatures you might only be willing to cope with for a couple of days, there are many places in China that are perfect for a brief weekend break.

Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics opening ceremony.
Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics (Photo Credit: Asatur Yesayants / Shutterstock.com)

6. An Option For Special Events

China is such a large country with some truly exciting cities, and in larger ones like Beijing and Shanghai, there are always some interesting events going on, such as the 2022 Winter Olympics for example. A transit visa is perfect for a brief visit because, chances are, the event you have tickets for will be over quicker than your visa application would come through anyway.

Or, if instead of sightseeing in Beijing, you are entertaining the idea of maybe taking the grandchildren to Shanghai Disney Resort for a change of scenery, then a transit visa is by far the fastest and easiest option.

7. Exploring China Bit By Bit

Like many countries with an incredible number of historic sights to explore (Egypt comes to mind), spending too much time in one stretch discovering, learning, and soaking up sights and information can be utterly exhausting, and often you forget what you’ve seen at the beginning of the trip by the time you are halfway through. Instead, if you live close enough to easily manage the flight times, why not explore China bit by bit on transit visas only? This is what I intend to do, taking advantage of the 144-hour visas as well. A bit of Beijing here, some Shanghai there, and maybe always on the way somewhere else, when I am practically flying past anyway.

A Final Word: Not just in Beijing’s vast airport but in other airports, too, having a transit visa might speed up your immigration process. There is a separate lane set aside for 24-hour, 72-hour, and 144-hour transit visas, and, if like me, you are the only one that day wanting a transit visa on arrival, you’ll sail through immigration, leaving the others queuing.

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12 Things I Wish I Knew Before Traveling To Beijing https://www.travelawaits.com/2730505/things-to-know-before-traveling-to-beijing/ Mon, 14 Feb 2022 22:33:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2730505 Beijing, China at the Imperial City north gate.

Visiting China can be an adjustment for visitors that are unfamiliar with the culture, and it is always good to be prepared before traveling. Visiting its capital, Beijing, is no exception.

Yes, Beijing has a lot of wonderful sights to see and foods to try, but it can be quite the culture shock. Here are some of my tips on anything from smog to carrying cash, toilet trouble, and table manners. 

Close up of a Chinese Visa for travel in China background.
i viewfinder / Shutterstock.com

1. Visa Applications Can Be Challenging

Unless you hold a passport from Singapore, Brunei, or Japan, you will need a visa if you wish to stay for longer than 72 hours in China. It can be time consuming and at times very difficult to get hold of a visa. So as soon as you know that you want to go to China, start applying for a visa. 

If your country of residence is the same as your nationality, i.e., the country that issued your passport, then you should be able to get a 30-day tourist visa without too many delays. American travelers can find exact visa requirements on the U.S. Department of State website.

If, however, you are an expatriate, it is very difficult to get hold of a visa because you need to apply in the same country your passport is from. I had this problem in France, holding a German passport. The embassy expected me to go back to Germany to apply for the visa.

2. Download a VPN Before You Leave Home

Once you have your visa, download a VPN (virtual private network) on your phone if you are planning to use the internet or go on social media. Make sure you do it in your country before you leave, because once you are in China, it’s too late. The VPN hides your device’s IP address, allowing you to search on your phone, use apps, or post a selfie on Facebook. That said, even if you manage to get onto Facebook, please be careful what you post. Any criticism of the politics of China, or anything even slightly negative, can get you into trouble.

Note that many VPNs are banned in China. Before going abroad, do your research on quality VPNs that are approved in China.

Close-up view of man using Apple Pay paying for public transport.
LightField Studios / Shutterstock.com

3. Cash Is King

The Chinese currency is the renminbi, which means “people’s money,” but the renminbi is better known as the yuan. One yuan or renminbi is divided into 100 fen, or 10 jiao. Confused yet? 

The most important thing to remember is to carry cash, and preferably small notes, as things within China are inexpensive, be they rickshaw rides, items from the corner shop or the food stalls — basically anything except for admittance fees because these are inflated for the tourists. Credit cards and things like Apple Pay are more and more accepted, especially in larger stores and restaurants and on the metro, but as soon as you head into more traditional areas, you are better off with cash. But you don’t have to tip in restaurants: Not only is it not expected, at times it is even frowned upon. However, in Western-style hotels and restaurants catering to tourists, you may tip, as the staff will have gotten used to it.

4. Toilet Trouble

Public toilets provide quite the culture shock for first-time visitors to Beijing. In my experience, most were a simple hole in the ground, often without handles to steady yourself. Toilet paper, soap, and hand towels were also a rare commodity. I learned to carry hand sanitizer — a doddle in these days of the COVID pandemic — and tissues wherever I went. And after a couple of awkward moments, I was sure to lock the door when I went in. 

5. Always Carry ID

Make sure you always carry ID because police may stop you at any time — in the street, at tourist sights, or in your hotel — and ask for identification. It is law in China for citizens and visitors alike to be able to produce ID when asked by police. Often you also get asked to show ID at the entry to sights when buying tickets. 

I’m reluctant to carry my passport around when traveling in case I lose it. I carry a copy, either paper or a photo on my phone. I also tend to carry an old driver’s license, or other photo ID which clearly shows my picture and name, and leave my passport in the hotel safe.  

the Forbidden City in Beijing China, on a foggy day.
Forbidden City (Photo Credit: ttpang / Shutterstock.com)

6. Be Prepared For Smog

Beijing is a huge city, full of cars and buses which do not necessarily meet Western emission standards. Throughout 2019, Beijing had just two months when the air quality was classified as “moderate.” The worst months for smog are the winter months, but that said, I first visited in winter and had the best weather I could have imagined, with clear, fresh air. To be safe, though, travel with a mask. But make sure the smog mask is rated N95 or higher, meaning it removes 95 percent of particular matter 0.3 microns in size or bigger.

7. Mind The Scams

Like in all large cities where tourists are aplenty, there are people who would like to scam them out of some money. The most common scam, with signs warning you at sites such as the Forbidden City, is the so-called Tea Scam. A young local will approach you, asking if you would mind practicing English with them. They will take you to a tea shop where, when it comes to paying the bill, the amount is in the hundreds of dollars, and if you complain, you find yourself surrounded by their not-quite-so-friendly friends.

The rickshaw scam runs along the same lines as most foreign non-metered taxi scams — you end up not paying the price you agreed to because suddenly your driver cannot understand a thing anymore. Instead, ask your tour guide or concierge in the hotel to help you or take a metered taxi.

8. Slurping And Spitting

In China, slurping and smacking your lips when eating is not only socially acceptable but in fact polite, showing the hostess or chef that the food is truly enjoyable. You might want to try and join in when eating noodles!

As for spitting in the street, while that sort of behavior is not necessarily deemed polite, it is widely accepted and pretty much the norm. So instead of getting upset or angry, just make sure to watch where you step. I swear my feet were aimed at deliberately by some guy spitting in Beijing, someone who clearly did not like foreign tourists.

Beijing city landscape
Beijing (Photo Credit: HelloRF Zcool / Shutterstock.com)

9. Things Get Lost In Translation

Language is a huge barrier in China, with English not widely spoken. That said, with Beijing being a multinational and cosmopolitan city, you will find some English speakers in most larger restaurants and hotels, and tour guides are conversant in numerous languages. But step away from any Westernized or touristy area and you are on your own. It can even be difficult to get back to your hotel, so I have started to always carry the business card or a note from my accommodation with the name, address, and directions in the local language to show to taxi drivers when I get lost. At least you’ll get home.

As for eating out, some would argue it’s better not to know what you have in front of you anyway, but many restaurants in touristy areas have menus with images, which are often better than the translations — which, together with public signs dotted around the country, can provide some hilarious but not necessarily useful translations.  

Beijing Subway. People are walking. Located in Beijing Subway, Beijing, China.
aphotostory / Shutterstock.com

10. Braving The Subway

It took a while before I was brave enough to head down into the subway station to see if I could get around by public transport, and I wish I had tried it sooner. I had expected to get completely lost because I could not read the signs; instead I found that the subway had English translations, making things so much easier. Even the machines to get your 3-yuan, plastic entry card for a single inner-city trip, seemed much less scary than anticipated.

The Great Wall of China
The Great Wall of China (Photo Credit: Izmael / Shutterstock.com)

11. The History Can Be Overwhelming

I knew that China would be full of history, and I knew the Great Wall of China was once rumored to be the only man-made object visible from space. Even if that is not actually true, the sheer magnitude of the historic sights here took me aback somewhat. Standing on the Great Wall, seeing only a tiny fraction of the 13,000-mile-long wall, built more than 2,000 years ago, nearly overwhelmed me. 

Packing too much into a day can not only be physically but also mentally exhausting, so spread the important monuments out a little, if you have time, and add a bit of lighter fun in between. A market, a walk through the Hutongs, or a bit of shopping gives the brain a chance to digest each morsel, one at a time.

Peking Duck.
vsl / Shutterstock.com

12. Taste The Duck

At first, I balked at the thought of eating a fried duck. But this is the specialty in Beijing, and when in Rome, as they say… and you know what? The crispy skin dipped in sugar (yes, really) is one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted. As travelers, it is good at times to jump over your own shadow and try different things. You might just really love them.

Related Reading:

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Why You Must Visit Singapore’s Beautiful Botanic Gardens Twice https://www.travelawaits.com/2730632/best-things-to-see-singapore-botanic-garden/ Thu, 10 Feb 2022 16:12:05 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2730632 Changeable lizard at the Singapore Botanic Gardens

We have been traveling together to Singapore for the past 20 years to see family and spend time with friends, avoid winter weather, and travel to other places in Asia. During this time, we’ve been everywhere in Singapore (Regina grew up there), and there is a short list of things that we do every time we are in Singapore. The Singapore Botanic Gardens tops the list, closely followed by Gardens by the Bay and the Super Trees at night.

Established in 1859, the Gardens is the country’s first UNESCO Heritage site. It is the only tropical botanic garden on the UNESCO list. Our favorite place is the Orchid Garden. For families and children, we recommend the Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden — the first children’s garden in Asia.

Most people only think about going to the Gardens during the day, but it is also open at night. A nighttime stroll will give you a whole different feel for the Gardens.

There is so much to do and see, it is impossible to experience it all in one trip. We recommend multiple visits — different times of the day or year, daytime and evening, or even to take a tour or a group exercise class.

Best Things To Do At The Singapore Botanic Gardens During The Day

Most people spend only a few hours at the Gardens, but you will need most of the day if you want to see more of the park. Here are some of the top stops to make on your journey.

Golden shower arches in the Singapore Botanic Gardens' National Orchid Garden.
Golden shower arches in the Singapore Botanic Gardens’ National Orchid Garden (Photo Credit: Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now)

Enjoy The National Orchid Garden (Tyersall Entrance)

If you are a fan of orchids, the National Orchid Garden is top of the list. It’s the largest tropical orchid garden in the world with more than 1,000 orchid species and 2,000 hybrids on display. Most first-time visitors spend most of their time in the Orchid Garden.

Orchid in the National Orchid Garden in the Singapore Botanic Garden.
Orchid in the National Orchid Garden (Photo Credit: Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now)

In the VIP Orchid Garden, you find hybrid orchids named after dignitaries from around the world. In the Tan Hoon Siang Mist House, you’ll find award-winning hybrids. For an in-depth experience, spend some time in the Tropical Montane Orchidetum.

Sometimes we just wander and enjoy the beautiful orchids in no specific order. Allow at least 2 hours for this garden.

Admire The Clock Tower

Most people walk right past the Clock Tower on the way to the National Orchid Garden. It’s worth stopping for a moment to admire. It was commissioned by Lady McNeice. She donated more than 20,000 bromeliads to the Gardens.

Visit The Swans At Swan Lake (Tanglin Entrance)

When you enter the main gate at Tanglin, a short walk will lead you to Swan Lake. A pair of mute swans live on the lake so keep your eye out. Created in 1866, it is a favorite for young and old. There is a pavilion and places to sit along the perimeter of the lake.

Bonsai Garden in Singapore Botanic Garden.
Bonsai Garden (Photo Credit: Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now)

Delight In The Bonsai And Sundial Gardens (Tanglin Entrance)

The Sundial and Bonsai gardens are near Swan Lake. The Sundial Garden is a classical garden and is very tranquil.

Adjacent to the Sundial Garden is the Bonsai Garden, home to about 50 Bonsai specimens. We love viewing these delicately shaped trees.

Explore The Healing And Fragrant Gardens (Nassim Entrance)

With over 400 varieties, the healing garden is a great place to learn about medicinal plants. Themes of the garden include plants that heal the head, the respiratory system, and reproductive systems.

If you love butterflies, you’ll find them in the Fragrant Gardens as they are attracted by the flowers and the scents. It’s a wonderful olfactory experience for all.

Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now

Play In The Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden (Bukit Timah Entrance)

The Children’s Garden is large (4 hectares) and chock full of activities for children up to 14 years old. There are forest main parts of the garden: forest, farm, orchard, and trails.

Children will enjoy whizzing on the flying fox, getting lost in the maze, making it across the suspension bridge, and spotting different trees and plants. A family of otters lives in this area — if you’re lucky you’ll catch sight of them. There are also workshops for children. It is closed on Mondays.

Spot Animals At The Eco Gardens And Eco-Lake (Bukit Timah Entrance)

Eco-Lake is just on the other side of the Children’s Garden. It’s a great place for spotting animals. Surrounding the lake is the Ethnobotany Garden where you can learn about the traditional uses of medicinal plants and herbs. Nearby you will also find the bougainvillea and bamboo collections and a foliage garden.

Chang kuda sculpture by Chong Fah Cheong in the Singapore Botanic Gardens.
Chang kuda sculpture by Chong Fah Cheong in the Singapore Botanic Gardens (Photo Credit: Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now)

Go On A Sculpture Hunt

There are 40 sculptures throughout the Gardens, including murals, gates, and fountains. Some are harder to find. Do a sculpture hunt as you walk or look them up online and plan your route.

Heritage tree at the Singapore Botanic Garden.
Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now

Look Up At The Heritage Trees

As you wander the grounds, you’ll see enormous trees. Called heritage trees, many of these pre-date the establishment of the Gardens in 1859, making them more than 160 years old. There are panels near most of them telling of their history.

Best Things To Do At The Singapore Botanic Gardens At Night

Visiting the Gardens at night can be a magical time. The air is fragrant. The rainforests still, and the only sounds you hear may be the birds settling in for the night. Pathways are lit but it can be helpful to have a flashlight as well.

Chong Fah Cheong's chang kuda sculpture at night, Singapore Botanic Gardens.
Chong Fah Cheong’s chang kuda sculpture at night (Photo Credit: Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now)

Take A Romantic Evening Stroll

The Gardens is perfect for a romantic evening stroll. Calm and peaceful. The Gardens are wonderful in the evening. Walk past Swan Lake, sit on a bench, or bring a picnic dinner.

Visit The Fragrant Garden

Beautifully lit at night, many of the plants in the Fragrant Garden emit lovely scents only in the evening. You’ll have a different experience as there are fewer visitors, it’s peaceful, and (hopefully) it’ll be less hot and humid.

Look For Nighttime Creatures

Swans, otters, monitor lizards, roosters, dragonflies, turtles, and more can be found in the park. Many of them are more active (and more easily spotted) in the early evening. Last time we were there, we saw a very large (seven-foot-long) monitor lizard stroll along the path.

Christmas trees at the Singapore Botanic Garden.
Regina Ang / Travel For Life Now

View The Christmas Trees

During the Christmas season, companies and organizations pay to decorate trees that are featured throughout the Gardens. Funds raised go to charity. Last year’s theme was conservation, and there were many interesting trees with recycled materials (CD discs, hard hats, and more). You can see the trees during the day, but we prefer nighttime when they are lit. The clock tower area is especially beautiful.

Pro Tips

Entering The Gardens

The Botanic Gardens is easily reachable by MRT (Singapore’s subway) or bus. It is located about 5 minutes away from Orchard Road by taxi or public transport. There are five entrances to the Gardens.

Tanglin Gate is the main entrance nearest to Swan Lake and the bonsai garden. It is the oldest part of the Gardens and dates to 1859. Tyersall Gate is closest to the National Orchid Garden and best for those driving as there is a parking lot. The Nassim entrance will bring you to the Healing and Fragrance gardens. If you enter by the Bukit Timah Gate, you will be closest to the Children’s Garden and to the Botanic Gardens MRT station.

The fifth entrance, Gallop (a new addition), is not easily accessible by mass transit.

There are visitor services counters at the Bukit Timah Gate, Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden, the National Orchid Garden, and the Green Pavilion at the Tanglin Gate. Pick up a map at these counters — they are helpful to orientate yourself as the park is huge.

While it is free to enter the Gardens, there is a fee to visit the National Orchid Garden. There is a discounted fee for seniors. The National Orchid Garden is only open from 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. The rest of the Gardens is free and open from 5 a.m. to 12 midnight daily.

When To Visit, What To Bring, And Where To Eat

The best time to visit the Gardens is either early in the morning or later in the day or early evening when the temperature is more comfortable.

Bring insect repellent (especially at night), sunscreen, a hat, water, and good walking shoes. Most of the paths are paved. Many people bring picnic lunches.

Bathrooms are located throughout the gardens. There are vending machines with cold drinks, shaded shelters, and benches sprinkled around the gardens.

There are a few dining options within the gardens. Fusion Spoon located at the Tanglin Gate is good for casual dining along with Bees Knees at the Garage near the Cluny Park Gate. Halia Restaurant is located near the National Orchid Garden. Little Spot Café is just outside of the Children’s Garden.

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My 10 Favorite Historic Sites Everyone Must See Near Beijing https://www.travelawaits.com/2730326/best-historic-sites-to-see-in-beijing/ Thu, 10 Feb 2022 14:09:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2730326 Great Wall of China at the Jinshanling section

Beijing is large enough with plenty of sights to keep you busy for a few days, but there are some superb historic spots outside of the city, a few hours’ drive away at most, that ought not to be missed when in Beijing, and are even worth adding a couple of days or more to your itinerary.

The most important is of course the Great Wall of China, for which I have included three separate entries on this list for reasons you will discover; and there are museums, tombs, and simply beautiful landscapes, all within easy reach by train, bus, or private car from the city. All are also available as part of organized tours with a guide, which is very useful in China, not least because of the language barrier many of us face.

I am adding rough distances and ways to get to each site, so you can plan ahead, but there are a few destinations that can be seen together on a full day out. Where that is possible, I will mention it. So, here is my list — happy planning!

The Great Wall of China. Badaling Section of the Great Wall, located in Beijing, China.
aphotostory / Shutterstock.com

1. Badaling Section Of The Great Wall

The Badaling section of the Great Wall is the most popular, with 70 percent of visitors coming to this section because it is probably one of the highest and widest, and as such is rather impressive. At 45 miles northwest of Beijing, it is within easy reach from the city center. You can get there by bullet train from Beijing North Railway Station/Qinghe Railway Station to Badaling Great Wall Railway Station. It takes a mere 30 minutes. Once there, you can either take a cable car up to the wall or walk, and then you can explore some relatively flat sections of the wall, though much of the ground is steep. You’ll find plenty of restaurants — even a KFC — by the entrance, plus shops and villages that cater to the influx of visitors, which can easily reach the cap of 65,000 per day, walking along the 4.7-mile-long section.

Pro Tip: If you are taking a tour to Badaling, most of the time, you will stop at the Ming Tombs along the way. The Ming Tombs is a site where 14 of 16 emperors of the Ming Dynasty (1368 A.D. to 1644 A.D.) are buried.

Great Wall of China in Summer (Mutianyu section near Beijing)
Hung Chung Chih / Shutterstock.com

2. Mutianyu Section Of The Great Wall

Also 45 miles from Beijing, to the north, lies the lesser-visited and more comfortable-to-walk Mutianyu section. Surrounded by beautiful mountains with a cable car to the main entry point and fewer restaurants and souvenir shops, this is a more authentic section with fewer crowds. There is no direct train, nor is there a direct bus, but it is a comfortable hour’s drive if you go with a private guide.

Pro Tip: There is a toboggan ride down once you are finished exploring — perfect for a bit of a thrill.

Great Wall of China at the jinshanling section,sunset landscape.
ABCDstock / Shutterstock.com

3. Jinshanling Section Of The Great Wall

Some 87 miles northeast of Beijing, this is a little further away than the first two options — and even less crowded. It not only offers you a longer drive through the mountainous terrain, which is interesting to look at, but also another option, and a slightly different experience. This section hosts a marathon race each April and is great for serious hikers, with plenty of trails nearby.

Pro Tip: Sadly, it is not possible to walk between the sections I’ve recommended as the entire length of the wall is not in good condition, but there are stretches where you can hike across several sections with an experienced guide. 

4. Shilinxia Scenic Area

Shilinxia means Gorge of the Stone Forest, and this area is named after a deep gorge surrounded by sharp, rugged mountains, a landscape that is otherworldly and quite magical. To get the best view of the four-mile-long gorge some 50 miles outside of Beijing, go to Pinggu, where they built an amazing circular glass viewing platform that is not for the faint-hearted. You will have seen the pictures, I am sure. But, once you have convinced yourself that it is indeed made from strong glass, the views are worth the slightly panicky feeling. You can take a couple of connecting buses from Tiananmen Square or go on an escorted tour.

Pro Tip: This is also a region of good ski resorts, should you come during winter.

5. Longqingxia Gorge

This gorge, just as impressive as the Shilinxia Scenic Area, but 50 miles to the north of Beijing, does not have a viewing platform made from glass, but instead, in winter, an ice sculpture and lantern festival, which is stunning. But even in the summer, the landscape is breathtaking. To get there take the train from Beijing North Railway Station to Yanqing Railway Station, and from there, Bus No. 875 to the gorge, or take a guided tour, which will also usually involve an excursion to the Badaling Section of the Great Wall as well. 

Pro Tip: This is such a beautiful spot where you can easily spend a day. A must-do is going on a boat ride down the gorge, during which you can simply marvel at the scenery.

Roof of ornate pavilion in Fragrant Hills, China
Ornate pavilion in Fragrant Hills, China (Photo Credit: oksana.perkins / Shutterstock.com)

6. Fragrant Hills

Isn’t that a fabulous name? This forested area sprinkled with temples is at its best in fall when the coloring of the maple trees is awe-inspiring. The park is not on one level and ascent can be quite steep at times, but there is a cable car to the main peak, taking some of the sting out of it. From the peak, on a clear day, you will be able to spot Beijing’s skyscrapers on the horizon.

You can get there by subway line 10 to Bagou Station, transfer onto the Western Suburban Line to Xiangshan Station, and from there it is a 10-minute walk to the main ticket office. If you are lucky enough to visit in fall, then try and get there for sunrise, with the rising sun making the red leaves shine even more spectacularly. It’s an early start, but worth it.

Pro Tip: Only 5.5 miles from the Summer Palace, this is a perfect combination of nature and historic sights.

Imperial Summer Palace in Beijing, China.
Lukiyanova Natalia frenta / Shutterstock.com

7. Summer Palace

A must-see in my mind, the Summer Palace is a stunning former residence and imperial garden of the Qing Dynasty, which preceded the Ming Dynasty of Forbidden City fame. With sprawling gardens, plenty of temples, and even a superb luxury hotel on the grounds, this is a perfect place to linger. I especially love the 2,360-foot-long canopied and ornately decorated Long Corridor walkway, where members of the Imperial court went for strolls, looking out across the large lake that was excavated to add to the scenic setting.

Pro Tip: There is a fabulous souvenir shop in the gardens, so allow some space in your baggage for a few trinkets.

Statue of Peking Man at Zhoukoudian Peking Man Site, Beijing, China.
Takashi Images / Shutterstock.com

8. Peking Man Museum

When Peking Man’s tooth was found in the 1920s it caused a sensation, and this site is a must for all those interested in the history of mankind. There is a state-of-the-art museum exhibiting the most important finds and allowing you to place Peking Man (a hominid skeleton scientists estimate is some 400,000 years old) in our evolution. The actual site where Peking Man’s remains were found is about a 10-minute walk to the cave and requires an additional ticket purchase. The Zhoukoudian suburb is not easily reached by public transport as the subway does not extend quite that far, but there are plenty of private tours.

Pro Tip: The way there often takes in the pretty Marco Polo Bridge (also known as Lugou Bridge), the 11-arch granite bridge first mentioned in Marco Polo’s travel diary back in the 13th century. More recently the Marco Polo Bridge became known for the Marco Polo Bridge Incident, which brought about the second China-Japan War in 1937. Please note that since the river was diverted, now you often only find grass under the bridge.

Western Zhaoling, Eastern Qing Tombs (Beihai, China) UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Takashi Images / Shutterstock.com

9. Eastern Or Western Qing Tombs

These are two different complexes of imperial tombs of the Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1912), situated at opposing ends of Beijing. The Western Qing Tombs lie roughly 33 miles west, while the Eastern Qing Tombs lie 84 miles to the east. Which one to choose? Well, the Western Qing Tombs, which were opened in 1730, feature the most complete preserved ancient royal mausoleums in China and are “home” to 80 people, including several emperors. The Eastern Qing Tombs are some of the best-preserved and largest tomb complexes and include the fabulously named Dongdongling tomb of the Empress dowager Cixi. Both are part of the same UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Pro Tip: Both complexes are stunning and are set against equally impressive mountainous landscapes, so your decision is only a question of how much time you can spare. 

Tanzhe temple near Beijing, China.
Schlafwagenschaffner / Shutterstock.com

10. Tanzhe Temple

The Tanzhe Temple, or Temple of the Pool and Zhe Tree, is Beijing’s oldest, with a history of some 1,700 years. It is also one of Beijing’s largest temples. A beautiful Buddhist complex, it is perfect for photographers as you have not only colorful temples and worshippers but also monks and ginkgo trees waiting to be snapped. At 18 miles outside of Beijing’s center, you can easily get there on Subway line 1 to Pingguoyuan Station, then change to Bus 931 to Tanzhe Temple.

Pro Tip: The complex is famous for its tall cypress and pine trees, as well as the ginkgo trees, but should you come in mid-April, then the magnolia trees are in bloom. Not only does it get really picturesque but also a little busier than normal.

For more on Beijing, consider

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From Ancient To Modern: 11 Best Sights To See In Beijing https://www.travelawaits.com/2726541/things-to-do-in-beijing/ Mon, 07 Feb 2022 14:13:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2726541 Great Wall in the snow

Beijing, or Peking, is the capital of the People’s Republic of China. The vast, sprawling city of more than 21 million inhabitants, is a city that combines ancient history with super modern life. Seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites nestle in and around the city, while state-of-the-art skyscrapers reach dizzy heights in the Central Business District. The city that has accommodated leaders of a world power today, as well as hundreds of years back, is a constantly growing metropolis.

Yet, step out from the modern metro or turn an unexpected corner, and you see sights that have not changed for centuries, or even millennia, with traditional ways of life going hand in hand with modern stresses.

There is much to see and explore, but Beijing is also surprisingly manageable, whether you go on an organized tour with a guide, or take your chances in the metro by yourself, which is not as scary as it might sound. Either way, prepare for your mind to be blown by amazing wonders, historic facts, and sights not to be seen anywhere else.

While this list does not mention all the sights, these are my personal favorites in and around Beijing and come highly recommended. 

The frozen moat of the Forbidden City.
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

1. The Forbidden City

Forbidden City has housed 24 emperors over the years, starting back in the early 1400s, when it became the residence of Emperor Yongle of the Ming Dynasty and his family. The vast complex covers 7.75 million square feet, making it not only the largest imperial palace in the world, but with its 980 buildings and more than 8,500 rooms, also a formidable challenge to visitors trying to see even a fraction of it. Especially as some 40 percent of it is still out of bounds to them. Even if you were to move right in, you’d probably miss some hidden corners. I spent a few hours there, but eventually admitted defeat, with my head swimming from seeing too many dragons, turtles, and rich architectural details. What life must have been like in those days. Amazing.

Tiananmen Square.
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

2. Tiananmen Square

You literally can’t miss Tiananmen Square as it lies by the entrance to the Forbidden City. Back in the 1600s, there stood the Great Ming Gate on this vast square, which today is hemmed by the Great Hall of the People, the National Museum of China, the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, and said entrance to the Forbidden City. It leaves a bad aftertaste because of the political tragedy that took place here in 1989, but it is the place where visitors are likely to meet up with their tour guides, and its sheer size is worth a look.

Great Wall of China
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

3. The Great Wall

Strictly speaking not in Beijing, but an easy drive outside the city limits, the Great Wall of China is nevertheless considered a sight under Beijing’s umbrella. Some of the closest sections of the wall are a mere 45 miles from Beijing, so easily doable within half of a day. I had opted to visit the Mutianyu section for three reasons: It is one of the closest sections to Beijing, and I was under time restraints; it is one of the lesser visited, so fewer tourists; and also, it is one of the gentler sections, easier on the knees. Some sections, including the most popular section called Badaling, are practically vertical and, while interesting, I did not want to go mountain climbing, and rather preferred to walk comfortably as far as I could. Covering several lookout posts and fortified sections, this part meanders along the ridge of a mountain, with either ends stretching into the distance and beyond. I believe my mouth hung open throughout the visit, my mind blown by the incredible sight.

The marble boat at the Summer Palace.
The Marble Boat (Photo Credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey)

4. The Summer Palace

I do believe the locals refer to the Summer Palace also as the Winter Palace, which confuses things a little, but despite traveling there in winter, I officially went to see the Summer Palace. Whatever the name, it is a stunning palace and imperial garden of the Qing Dynasty, which preceded the Ming Dynasty of Forbidden City fame. My favorite part was the 2,360-foot-long canopied and ornately decorated Long Corridor walkway, which allowed the richly dressed members of the imperial court to stroll along regardless of the weather, looking out across the large lake that was excavated to add to the scenic setting. The dug-up soil of the lake formed Longevity Hill next to the path.

Temple of Heaven, the landmark of beijing, china.
Richie Chan / Shutterstock.com

5. The Temple Of Heaven

An architectural feat, laid out according to a precise method, and depicting the belief that Heaven was round while the Earth was square, this vast temple complex is not only a place of worship but also a site of statesmanship. The emperor visited twice a year, seated on a 40-foot-long sedan chair carried by 10 men, accompanied by horse chariots and elephants to pray for things like good harvests for his people. For those who understand architecture, this is a sight to be seen, as many of its constructions were ahead of their time, when it was constructed in the 1400s.

Jingshan Park,panorama above on capital of China - Beijing city.
V_E / Shutterstock.com

6. Jingshan Park

Jingshan Park might be one of the “lesser” parks in Beijing, but a little gem. On the opposite side of the Forbidden City, from Tiananmen Square, the hill in the middle of the park is the result of the excavations of the Forbidden City moat. As such, the park is a perfect place to climb after seeing the former Imperial Palace, for an overall grand view of the vast site. It is also a great place to watch Beijing life as it happens: The park is filled with families taking their kids there for a little bit of history, a walk in the green surroundings, and a few candies and balloons. The little temple at the top is lovely, and overall, it is a more manageable park than some, and the one with the best views.

The hutongs in Beijing, China.
ynm_yn / Shutterstock.com

7. The Hutongs

Built during the Yuan Dynasty in the late 1200s–early 1300s, the Hutongs are narrow lanes with single-story residences, in a square street layout, and all with hidden courtyards behind them. A time-wrap worthy neighborhood that is still viable in the middle of Beijing, the Hutongs allow a great insight into what life was like for those not residing in vast Imperial complexes. You can take a rickshaw through the tiny lanes and stop at the many small art galleries in some of the buildings.

8. Lama Temple

The colorful Lama Temple, also known as Yonghe Temple, is a baby when it comes to historic sights in Beijing, dating to as recent as 1745. Still, it is a beautiful temple complex, the most sacred Tibetan temple outside of Tibet, and a working monastery. There are several halls to see, with the fifth one housing an enormous 60-foot-tall statue of the Maitreya Buddha, dressed in imperial yellow satin, and reportedly carved from one solid piece of Tibetan sandalwood.

Snacks at the Food Market.
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

9. Wangfujing Food Market

This nighttime market with food stalls all along Donghuamen Street, within easy walking distance of the Forbidden City, is an assault on the senses. As you approach, it starts with sweet treats and candy floss, and then the savory stalls with live cooking take over. Anything from fat grubs, scorpions, lizards, insects, and even seahorses are being roasted on sticks and sold. Not for the faint-hearted, there are crowds of locals enjoying a snack as well as tourists daring each other on. Me? I chickened out, literally. The Satay chicken skewers are very nice. Just along from the market, you have the neon-lit, glittering, and loud shopping area of Dongdansan; a few hundred yards, yet a million miles away from the ancient Forbidden City. This is modern Beijing, and it is worth seeing as well.

Beijing National Stadium, also known as the Bird's Nest, Beijing, China.
testing / Shutterstock.com

10. Beijing National Stadium

The Beijing National Stadium was built for the 2008 Summer Olympics by architects Jacques Herzog, Pierre de Meuron, Li Xinggang, and contemporary artist Ai Weiwei, which might explain its hyper modern take on an old Chinese favorite: the bird’s nest. It is a spectacular construction, and beautifully lit up at night, all set in the Olympic Park which can be explored via a self-guided walking tour. The stadium is set to also host the opening and closing ceremonies for the 2022 Winter Olympics. 

The Art District.
Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

11. 798 Art Zone

This is an entire quarter of the city given over to art. A former industrial space covering more than 5 million square feet of a former military factory complex is crammed full with galleries, art studios, shops, ateliers, cafes and restaurants. It’s dotted with sculptures on every corner — all set among large former warehouses and industrial spaces linked by tiny alleys and amazing reinvented spaces. If this was in London, it would not look out of place at all, and it rounds up the contrast between ancient and historic Beijing, and young and innovative Beijing, very well.

Pro Tip: While I am a fan of “going it alone” when traveling, in China, I hired a local guide to show me around — the same woman for several sights and outings. Not only do you learn more about the history of the sights, but also about the lives of the local people, many of whom do not speak English and thus have limited contact.

If you’re thinking about a trip to Asia, check out these articles:

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How We Retired In Our Mid-50s In The Most Expensive Cities In The World https://www.travelawaits.com/2729153/how-we-retired-in-our-mid-50s-in-new-york-city-and-singapore/ Sat, 05 Feb 2022 17:28:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2729153 NYC from aerial view

It was a late Sunday afternoon in October. The weather was perfect — sunny, a hint of fall in the air with the leaves beginning to turn colors. We sat on our deck at our weekend home with friends. They were chilling. Our “chill” was rapidly dissipating. We were beginning to think about the workweek. Both of us had high-pressure jobs and we weren’t looking forward to Monday.

Our friends, on the other hand, were already retired. “Why don’t you just retire?” they asked.

We don’t have enough money to retire, we responded.

Then they said something that set us on a new course. “You’ll never think you have enough money to retire.”

Three months later we retired in our mid-50s while living in the New York City area (sixth most expensive city to live in the world) and Singapore (tied with Paris as the second most expensive city in the world). Our retirement plan was to split our time between the two cities. While we are well off, neither of us worked on Wall Street (we weren’t making millions) and we didn’t come from wealthy families. We had planned to retire in our mid-60s, with Medicare (health insurance) and social security supplemented by our retirement savings.

Since we moved the timeline 10+ years earlier, the picture was different. No social security. No Medicare. Less savings. And too young to access our retirement income without penalties.

Sue & Reggie Hiking during Winter
Sue and Reggie Hiking (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

Questions And Worries

We had a million questions and worries. Can we afford it? Will we run out of money? What will we do with our time? How much do we have to cut our expenses? How do we get health insurance? Do we need to move somewhere less expensive? Do we have to sell our properties? How do we manage our investments? What if it doesn’t work — we spend too much money or are unhappy?

We’d been saving and planning for retirement for decades, but this was a quality-of-life decision, not purely a financial one. 

Here are 14 things we learned along our journey.

1. Deciding What Is Most Important

Many people focus on the dollars and cents when deciding to retire. That is an important consideration. But not the only one. Quality of life matters. Creating the life that you want to live may mean balancing both.

Regina Ang & Traditional Breakfast in Singapore.
Regina Ang eats traditional breakfast in Singapore (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

2. Start Planning Early

We started planning more seriously in our early 40s. We were already saving as much as we could, but we wanted to save more. We maximized our income by finding new (higher paying) jobs and paying down mortgages. We also sold our apartment in our favorite neighborhood in the Village and moved to Jersey City (one subway stop from New York City). This move enabled us to invest the earnings from the apartment sale. We still miss living in the Village, but we were able to get an apartment twice as large for a third of the expense. 

In our early 50s, we began discussing spending more time in Singapore. Reggie is a citizen and lived there until her late 20s. We have many family members and friends there. It is home for us as much as New York is home for us. 

Reggie had purchased an apartment there many years ago to help support her parents. We now stay in the apartment when we are in Singapore and rent it out when we are not there. As a result, we are able to live in one of the local areas, which has the important benefit of being less expensive than the expat and tourist areas.

Many overseas retirement articles assume that you’ll be staying in the expat areas. It’s important to research the neighborhood possibilities as a way to decrease expenses. Plus, you’ll have the local experience.

3. Prioritizing Expenses

When we retired, we cut our expense budget by 50 percent. That probably sounds drastic, but while we were working, we lived on one salary and saved the other. It’s still been an adjustment to live on less when we were used to spending very freely. It caused some fights in the first year as we learned to adjust. The good news is that we no longer have dry cleaning and business attire expenses.

4. Reducing Debt

Being in debt while planning on retirement can add to your stress levels. We never had credit card debt. If you do, evaluate how much credit card balances, mortgage, and other loan payments you are carrying. Can you eliminate these, and if not, can you reduce them? Credit card payments and a high mortgage can make it very difficult to retire early.

If you rather not carry any debt even with a low-interest mortgage, then pay it off and sleep better at night.

Skyline of NYC
New York City skyline (Photo Credit: Sue Davies Travel for Life Now)

5. Deciphering Healthcare

Healthcare is the biggest challenge for early retirees in the U.S., and one that we research extensively. We now live in Jersey City (as we said earlier, a short subway ride away from NYC). Our doctors are all in New York. The affordable healthcare plans available to us in New Jersey do not cover NYC doctors. For some folks, these plans will work. Do your research well ahead of time so you know that this option works for you.

We had another alternative in our back pocket. Adjunct Professors at New York University (NYU) are eligible for healthcare (for a fee) from the university. Sue started teaching classes at NYU 15 years ago. She loves teaching, but it was a difficult balancing act while she was working 60+ hours a week at her full-time job. We knew that it might come in handy if we did retire early, so we persevered. Sue now teaches a few classes a year when we are not traveling and loves her students.

As for Singapore, healthcare is subsidized there and much less expensive than in the U.S. When in Singapore, we purchase travel insurance with medical coverage and evacuation/repatriation riders. We do a lot of regional travel from Singapore, so it is important for both us to have travel insurance.

Exchange Place, Jersey City, New Jersey skyline.
Jersey City skyline (Photo Credit: Sean Pavone / Shutterstock.com)

6. Creating Passive Or Additional Income Streams

As we noted earlier, we wanted to invest the proceeds from selling our Manhattan apartment. Some of this was invested, but we also bought a small rental apartment in Jersey City. This provides passive income. During COVID, we decided to do some nonprofit and fundraising consulting since we could not travel and wanted to do some renovations. There are many other ways to earn income doing something you love while retired. We will continue to do that because it’s fun and rewarding. It’s so much easier to consult when you are not dependent on the income.

7. Deciding Who Should Manage Your Investments

Retiring early is a double whammy — you forgo 10+ years of savings while you are using your investments to live on.

We managed our own investments until recently, when we decided that we needed expert advice relative to withdrawals and planning. We shopped around for a financial planner that we trusted a few years before we retired.

We went to see our financial planner after the October conversation to ask him to run the numbers with an earlier retirement date. When we arrived back for the follow-up meeting, we informed him we’d already decided. This was before he presented his report. Luckily, the numbers supported our decision.

Aerial view of blue sky with puffy clouds at Marina Bay Singapore city skyline.
Singapore skyline (Photo Credit: MEzairi / Shutterstock.com)

8. You Don’t Need To Move… Unless You Want To

Every day, we read about someone who has retired early and moved to someplace warmer or cheaper — Florida, Portugal, elsewhere. And that works for some people. We wanted to live in the NYC area and Singapore for our retirement (we got the warmer message but not the cheaper one).

If you go the moving route, make sure to research and plan for it. It can be disorienting to make that big of a change right off the bat. 

9. Yes, You Can Break The Rules

Conventional wisdom is to not make big purchases or drastic decisions in the first year of retirement. That’s good advice.

We didn’t follow it.

Our dream lake house came up for sale a few months after we retired. We’d been waiting for a few years for the house, and we bought it immediately. It was a good decision, as it became our home base during COVID. We still have the Jersey City apartment for when we need to be in NYC, and the apartment in Singapore. At some point, we plan to sell one of the New Jersey properties.

Author's Regina Ang and Sue Davies getting Ready to play pickleball.
Regina Ang and Sue Davies play pickleball (Photo Credit: Regina Ang Travel for Life Now)

10. Retiring Internationally As An LGBTQ Couple

Our plan is to spend 4–5 months in Singapore and 7–8 months in the U.S. We would spend even more time in SIngapore if we could.

In the U.S., we are married, and in Singapore we are not. Singapore does not recognized gay marriage. It also does not have a retirement visa. Tourists are generally only granted continuous stays in Singapore for 90 days. It is also difficult for green card holders to be out of the U.S. for more than 6 months. We have to juggle all of this in our planning.

At one point, we researched retiring in a third country that would put us both on equal standing but decided against this because New York and SIngapore are our homes. We will eventually have to choose between the two places, but we are putting that off until we are in our 70s.

11. You Can Only Prepare For So Much

You can only anticipate so much. Life throws curveballs — COVID, health issues, inflation. Preparing and planning, like practicing a sport, allow you the space to improvise and make new decisions when something unexpected happens.

12. Do It Socially

As we retired, our differing visions of budgeting and spending time came to light. We had some disagreements and some learning experiences in the first years. Allow some space for that process. For a couple or a family, communication is so important. Take time to talk through how it is going — not just the finances, but the living.

If you are retiring as a single person, find others to talk to about how your retirement is going. Join groups (virtual or in person). Find new activities. Don’t do it alone.

Mah Jongg game in Singapore.
Mah Jongg – Mahjong (Photo Credit: Regina Ang Travel for Life Now)

13. Remember, It Is About Quality Of Life

In terms of quality of life, retiring early has been a home run for us.

We have a leisurely breakfast and start our day at the pace that works for us. Then we exercise, go for a walk, or kayak on the lake. We now have new hobbies like pickleball, Mah Jongg (spelled mahjong in Singapore), gardening, and glass blowing. There are new friends to visit with and volunteer activities that we didn’t have time to do while working. 

We are glad to have laid the groundwork much earlier in our lives, and grateful that we were able to adjust the plan to be able to retire in our mid-50s.

For more stories and words of advice like these, peruse our Inspire and retirement categories.

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12 Unique And Tasty Foods To Try In Beijing https://www.travelawaits.com/2728662/unique-foods-to-try-beijing/ Sat, 05 Feb 2022 01:05:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2728662 Dumplings with a sizzled layer, prized for their crispiness and crunch.

Beijing is truly the beating heart of China. While Shanghai might be bigger population-wise, it’s Beijing that’s been the center of Chinese government and culture for thousands of years. That fact is evident in the city’s museums, architecture, and of course, in its food!

From fine dining to street snacks, Beijing’s cuisine scene is as varied and complex as the city itself, with many influences and flavors. When I visited the city, my hotel was right down the street from Wangfujing Street. It’s known as the place to grab traditional foods, and trust me, I dove right in! Here are a dozen unique and tasty foods you might want to try if a visit to China’s capital is on your itinerary.

Peking duck, a dish from Beijing, China.
vsl / Shutterstock.com

1. Roasted Duck

Traditionally oven-roasted, Chinese duck is widely considered the official dish of Beijing. It’s been served here for centuries, presented whole and then served and sliced for diners tableside. This duck dish is known for its delicious thin and crispy skin, which is enjoyed first as an appetizer, dipped in a sweet bean sauce. When the bird’s meat is carved, it’s rolled into pancakes or crepes filled with cucumbers or green onions and eaten by hand.

Eating this dish — in Beijing where it originated — is an experience in itself. If you’re headed to the Chinese capital, make sure you have traditional duck at least once during your trip. It’s simply a must-not-miss.

Dumplings in Beijing, China.
Dumplings are everywhere in Beijing, from streets stalls to fine restaurants. They come in all shapes, sizes, styles, and fillings… but one thing’s for certain: They are all delicious! (Photo Credit: Erika Ebsworth-Gould)

2. Dumplings

Steamed, fried, sizzled … I love dumplings no matter how they’re prepared, and I honestly lost count of how many I ingested while in Beijing. They were all delicious. Some you’ll eat with your hands, others you’ll cut with chopsticks and eat — take a cue from the folks around you on that. They are filled with every savory bit you can think of — meats, fish veggies, egg, and even tofu — and if you’re enjoying them at a restaurant, you’ll have different sauces in which to dip them. If you’re lucky enough to have a guide or friends in Beijing, let them order an assortment for you. That’s what I did, and I had zero regrets.

3. Bao

Bao is rather like a cross between a small sandwich and a dumpling, filled and steamed. The difference is in the dough — it’s fluffy, spongy, and a bit sweet. These round buns are a great grab-and-go option for picnics or sightseeing sustenance. My favorites were stuffed with pork belly, little pockets of deliciousness that powered me through an extremely busy afternoon in Beijing.

4. Zha Jiang Mian

Well, of course you’re also going to have noodles while in Beijing, but perhaps the most popular noodle dish is the delish zha jiang mian, or fried sauce noodles. Check your diet at the door, as this recipe includes ground pork caramelized with ground bean sauce, sweet bean sauce, a bit of hoisin, and its own fat. Once that gets a deep, rich gorgeous brown, it’s tossed and pan-fried with wide noodles and topped with crunchy, slivered vegetables. It’s Chinese comfort food at its finest and is another must-sample while in Beijing.

Rou jia mo, the "Chinese hamburger," served in Beijing.
Fanfo / Shutterstock.com

5. Rou Jia Mo

Known as the “Chinese hamburger,” rou jia mo is a common street snack sold in Beijing. Its fillings and taste can vary from vendor to vendor, but this beloved tidbit usually consists of seasoned, spiced pork belly stuffed into a bread roll that reminded me a bit of an English muffin. You might also find simmered vegetables including onions, peppers, or carrots in the mix. Pick up two or three for a filling on-the-go meal; they’re perfect for a sightseeing lunch break!

6. Congee

Most of us think of rice porridge or pudding as a sweet treat, flavored with cinnamon, honey, or brown sugar. But in Beijing, rice porridge — or congee — is a savory dish, which was certainly a surprise the first time I tried it! In China, the carefully stewed and simmered rice is served with spicy bits including pickles, dried fish, shellfish, fermented bean curd, or sausage. While it’s still a comfort food, expect a decidedly different flavor when you’re in Beijing. Congee has long been considered a super-food in China, and indeed, it’s nourished generations of people for thousands of years. Give it a try!

Fried and skewered scorpions in Beijing, China.
Fried and skewered scorpions (Photo Credit: Erika Ebsworth-Gould)

7. Insect Skewers

I’m a fairly adventurous eater, willing to at least try nearly everything, especially when I’m traveling. But I drew the line — and held it — when it came to one of the odder dishes I saw on Wangfujing Street. I’m talking about fried insects on skewers. Various stalls sold them, and many people (I suspect mostly tourists) took great delight in snapping selfies while gobbling down whole locusts, crickets, scorpions, snakes, and even seahorses. While they were interesting to look at, I was perfectly content passing on this particular culinary custom. There were so many other delicious options to consider on Wangfujing; skipping the Fear Factor dining option was fine by me.

8. Lotus Root

Several times during my visit to Beijing, I was served a strange — white root? pod? fruit? — with a pleasant crunch and mild taste, rather like a water chestnut or jicama. It was round, cut into thin slices, and had a handful of holes in the middle, almost as if a piece of Swiss cheese had run into a potato. I noticed it in salads, soups, and even stir-fry. It was like nothing I’d ever eaten before, or since. When I asked, I was told it was lotus root. The lotus is a sacred flower in Asian culture, and its root as it turns out is quite nutritious. Although more of a supporting, accent player than a main dish, seek it out in Beijing. You won’t be sorry.

Tanghulu, sugar-glazed fruit skewers, in Beijing, China.
Sugar-glazed fruit skewers are a popular dessert for Beijing kids. Of course, I had to try one for myself! (Photo Credit: Erika Ebsworth-Gould)

9. Tanghulu

You’ll see spiky, shellacked fruit skewers all over Beijing — from stands and stalls to street vendor carts. This old-fashioned dessert is tanghulu, or “Chinese toffee apple.” Assorted fruits are first skewered like a kebab, then dipped in liquid sugar and allowed to dry. The result is a crunchy treat that your dentist would *not* approve of! Tanghulu are especially popular with children in Beijing, so of course, I couldn’t resist trying one. I chose tanghulu with Chinese hawthorn, which had a tart, delicious taste. You’ll also see them made with kiwi, cherries, oranges, pineapples, strawberries, and even tomatoes. 

Pro Tip: There is no easy or elegant way to eat tanghulu, so just dive in and crunch away! And ideally, brush that sugar off your teeth as soon as possible after snacking.

10. Glutinous Rice Balls

A bit chewy and a bit sweet, glutinous rice balls are a traditional snack. They are especially enjoyed during the Lantern Festival, the annual event that marks the end of Chinese New Year celebrations. These little bites are often filled with red bean cream, sesame paste, or nut butters, giving them a mochi-type taste and texture. People in China believe eating these will bring both happiness and luck in the new year. They were delicious, so I’m inclined to agree!

11. Green Tea Desserts

Of course, green tea was on my shopping list for bring-home gifts. You’ll find tea shops all over the city; tea tastings are as popular here as wine tastings are in the Napa Valley. Each spot sources from its own growers, and you’ll be amazed by the different tastes and aromas of the leaves that make their way into each cup. Many of these shops also offer a variety of green tea-flavored desserts. Look for biscuits, cakes, and tortes … they are all incredible! My absolute favorite: a jasmine green team soft-serve ice cream. It was floral, earthy, creamy, and just a bit sweet, the perfect refresher after a day of adventures … and shopping.

Candy shop in Beijing, China.
Beijing has many candy shops, filled to the brim with sweet treats. They’re great gifts for your favorite sweet tooth back home. (Photo Credit: Erika Ebsworth-Gould)

12. Mystery Sweets

This is the part of the article where I admit that I cannot read Mandarin. Granted, this made some purchases in Beijing a bit difficult… but it was also part of the fun. There are sweet shops all over the city, featuring barrels and bins brimming with all sorts of treats. I bought handfuls of “mystery” wrapped candy and treats to bring home to family and friends, and it was an adventure each time we tried one. From green tea biscuits and dried hawthorn reminiscent of a fruit roll-up to sesame candies filled with sweet red bean curd, we had a lot of fun sampling our haul for weeks after I returned from Beijing. An assortment of treats would also make a great take-home gift for a foodie friend.

Pro Tip: When dining out as well as eating on the go in Beijing, keep an eye on the busiest stands, cafes, and restaurants. If it’s packed with locals, you can be sure of some terrific eats. Also, make sure you bring a sense of adventure, and be prepared to push your palate. There were times when my limited Mandarin prevented me from knowing exactly what I was eating, but it was always delicious. One more thing to keep in mind: This isn’t the Chinese food you might be used to back home, and that’s a good thing!

Related Reading:

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My 8 Favorite Reasons To Visit Beijing In The Winter https://www.travelawaits.com/2728218/things-to-do-in-beijing-during-winter/ Fri, 04 Feb 2022 00:16:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2728218 Frozen moat at the Forbidden City in Beijing.

This article might be a little biased, as I am a winter person. I love snow and ice, and much prefer it to hot summer days when you cannot take enough clothes off and are constantly overheating. Give me a warm jacket and a sprinkling of snow, and I am happy. I also love to travel in winter because more often than not, there are fewer crowds, and you get to see sights without hundreds of other people milling about.

Loving Beijing in winter might well have to do with my first visit occurring during that time and the first impression the city made on me was a favorable one, with frozen lakes and that sprinkling of snow which makes everything look so much cleaner and prettier. The winter months are supposed to be the ones to avoid in Beijing because of the smog, but when I went, the skies were blue, the air fresh, and smog levels at an all-time low. Lucky, I know, but it added to the superb first impression.

Maybe I can convince you that Beijing is a great place to visit in winter, too. Here are my top reasons for recommending it:

Great Wall of China in the snow. Beijing.
su jp / Shutterstock.com

1. The Great Wall Gets A Sprinkling Of Snow

As first impressions go, seeing the Great Wall stretch into the distance, along the uppermost ridge of snow-sprinkled mountains, at incredible angles, getting smaller and smaller toward the horizon, this is one that I will never forget. A wall itself is an incredible feat of engineering and workmanship, but seeing it all not solidly covered in snow, but with details highlighted by a dustling of snow, is simply magical. It made the walking a tiny bit more treacherous, I admit, but as long as you wear ankle-high shoes with a good profile, as you should anyway on the Great Wall — because this is not straightforward walking in any weather — you will be just fine.

Pro Tip: As soon as you walk a few 100 yards, you’ll want to keep going along the wall, I bet you. Maybe not the entire 13,000-odd miles it stretches, but some. If you are a serious hiker, you can join treks along the wall, organized by the Great Wall Adventure Club, ranging from 1 day to several days long.

2. Walk For Hours

I like exploring places on foot, rather than hopping into taxis or metros. When you are walking, you notice the small things, the kids playing in a side street, the little café on the corner, or an interesting doorway that might need further investigation. But in summer, Beijing can get very hot, up to around 88 degrees Fahrenheit. And, as with all huge cities, that can be stifling and make sightseeing and walking around mightily uncomfortable. Whereas in winter, you can wrap up warm, and put comfortable shoes on, rather than sandals that might look cute but are not ideal for walking. Yes, in the early morning when I got up at 6 a.m. to head to the Great Wall, it was 14 degree Fahrenheit, and absolutely freezing. But in the daytime, temperatures rarely go below 41 degrees Fahrenheit, which, when wearing the right clothes, is perfect for clambering along the Great Wall without breaking a sweat.

Pro Tip: To give some structure to your walks within this huge city, why not download some self-guided itineraries, taking you sightseeing in various neighborhoods of the city?

The Marble Boat at the Summer Palace in Beijing, China.
The Marble Boat at the Summer Palace (Photo Credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey)

3. Wonders At The Summer Palace

At the Summer Palace, appropriately also sometimes called the Winter Palace by the locals, the beautiful man-made Kunming Lake is frozen in winter and looks stunning. The amazing royal boat made entirely from marble being stuck in the ice is just wonderful. But there is another wonder to behold: A few days on either side of the winter solstice, the beautiful 17-hole bridge is lit up at sunset. Not only does the bridge glow in the sunlight, but the setting sun shines through all 17 holes, showing off the ancient knowledge of astronomy and architecture at its best. It results in the 17 arches glowing red and looking stunning.

Pro Tip: For an extra special treat, why not stay in the Summer Palace? Inside the grounds lies the luxurious Aman Summer Palace Hotel and you will be sleeping in guest rooms that have welcomed the emperor’s guests some hundreds of years ago; slightly updated, but very much in keeping with the palace’s history.

4. The Frozen Moat Of The Forbidden City

I know, one frozen bit of water looks pretty much the same as the next, but the frozen moat around the Forbidden City utterly enchanted me. This is not a simple moat, like the ones you find in fortified castles in Europe, but quite wide, and it makes the beautiful ancient Imperial City look even more special. Sometimes, it is not frozen solid, but has chunks of ice floating on it, often with a duck perching on it for good measure and an even better photo op.

Pro Tip: Interested in what life must have been like in an important family’s court? Read The Story of the Stone, or The Dream of the Red Chamber, five volumes, by Cao Xueqin, written around 1760. At times, it is a bit hard going with all the names of the people involved, but it offers an incredible insight into life in the times of Imperial China.

Snacks at a food market in Beijing, China.
Photo Credit: Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey

5. Enjoy The Local Food

There is nothing quite like comfort food when it comes to beating chilly temperatures outside. Beijing is famous for its mutton hot pot, which is said to date back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368). This is not simply a stew, but more like a fondue, where you place your thin slices of mutton into a boiling hot soup to cook and then enjoy the warm dish. Personally, I find the xiaolongbao, or soup dumplings, perfect for winter. These little dumplings are filled with tender meat, and, more importantly, a hot broth. Not easy to eat, but so warming and gorgeous, that it is worthwhile persisting.

Pro Tip: These broth dumplings are fiendishly difficult to make, but you can start off by learning some more basic dumpling skills with a cooking class.

6. See The Ice Lanterns

Part of Beijing, if some 50 miles outside the inner city, Longqing Gorge is the site for an ice sculpture competition held every winter, with amazing displays. From twinkle lights hung from trees and cliffs, to 300 groups of lanterns, and hundreds of ice carving sculptures, this is quite the sight. This year, 2022, the exhibition will be themed around the Beijing Winter Olympics.

Pro Tip: Rather than taking the local train, you can opt for a tour that also includes a warming hot pot dinner when you get there.

Nanshan Ski Village in Beijing, China.
Nanshan Ski Village (Photo Credit: Carlos Huang / Shutterstock.com)

7. Go Skiing Or Ice Skating

And while we are on the Winter Olympics, I bet you didn’t know that Beijing has several world class ski resorts; I sure didn’t. So, once you are sick of sightseeing and too much history, you can enjoy numerous winter sports right on the outskirts of Beijing. From skiing to snowboarding, and all sorts of snowy fun in between, the Chinese, fired on by the Winter Olympics, have taken to winter sports like ducks to oyster sauce.

Closer to the city, Beijing is dotted with frozen over lakes, and people are welcome to go ice skating on them, with skate rentals available as well. Be it Houhai Lake, Shichahai, or indeed the lovely Kunming Lake at the Summer Palace with its spectacular backdrop, all are open to ice skaters for a bit of exercise and excitement.

Pro Tip: Want to see a Beijing ski resort up close and have a go? There are packages that pick you up in Beijing, take you to the Great Wall along the way, and after a night’s stay and some hours’ worth of skiing, it will drop you back off in Beijing.

8. Warm Up To Art Inside

Fed up with being cold? And maybe want something a little more contemporary after all this ancient history? Beijing has so many museums which are worth seeing, but they often tend to get passed by in favor of the ancient historic sites. Winter is a great time to explore some modern art within the warmth. Some superb museums to visit are the Center for Contemporary Art or the National Art Museum of China, soon to be replaced by the new Jean Nouvel-designed site in the Olympic Park, which will give the 100,000+ strong Chinese collection as well as the collection of foreign artists in a larger space, featuring Picasso and Dali. There is also the Three Shadows Photography Art Center designed by contemporary artist Ai Weiwei, who also worked on the Beijing Bird’s Nest Stadium in the Olympic Park.

Pro Tip: In fact, there is so much art and architecture in and around Beijing, that you can join an entire day-long tour through Beijing, stopping at all the most important sites, but hopping from warm car into warm museum. Perfect for a winter’s day.

If you’re planning a trip to China, check out our coverage:

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8 Moving Experiences I Had Returning To Vietnam After Serving In The War https://www.travelawaits.com/2725395/moving-experiences-in-vietnam-after-serving-in-the-war/ Sun, 23 Jan 2022 20:08:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2725395

This old soldier explored the northern part of Vietnam on a return trip in 1992. Then, I took a train to the southern part of the country, where I’d flown combat missions during the Vietnam War. I visited Huế City, where I once departed for combat missions, and took a seat on a peace monument where I’d sat as a young aviator 20 years prior. I drove to the site of my old base, then went by boat to the tomb of an ancient Vietnamese emperor. I took a once dangerous highway out to Khe Sanh, one of the most highly-contested battle sites of the war. Then, it was on to Da Nang, Marble Mountain, and Hoi An before reluctantly heading home. Old soldiers may fade away, but before we do, we should revisit our past.

Perfume River in Huế, Vietnam.
Perfume River in Huế, Vietnam (Photo Credit: Byron Edgington)

1. Huế, The Ancient Imperial Capital Of Vietnam

After 3 days exploring Hanoi and the surrounding area, I took an overnight train south to Huế City, a trip that lasted 14 hours. My guide Nhat and I arrived at the Huế depot at 8 a.m., and checked into the hotel near the Perfume River. When I’d flown over Huế during my combat tour, the old imperial capital of Vietnam had been reduced by the decay of neglect, and the decimation of war. As I rode through the beautiful old city in a cab, I was heartened to see a remarkable recovery of the ancient, storied home of Vietnam’s Đàng Trong and Nguyễn Dynasties that ruled from 1738 to 1945. 

Pro Tip: For train travel south from Hanoi to Huế City, take the main terminal at 120 Le Duan Street in west central Hanoi. There are 8 trains per night, costing approximately $16 per seat, or $40 for a sleeper. The trip to Huế is about 14 hours.

Byron back at Peace Monument in 1992.
Byron back at Peace Monument in 1992 (Photo Credit: Byron Edgington)

2. Perfume River Peace Monument 

The photo at the top of this article and the photo above were taken 20 years apart. The first in 1970, when I was a 21-year-old Army helicopter pilot. In the second photo, I’m a 41-year old tourist. The Monuments in Huế are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and this one, along the Perfume River, is directly across from the old citadel where ancient royalty lived. Looking across the river, I couldn’t help recalling the many flying missions I was assigned that originated inside the walls of the old citadel. On my return visit, the site is once more a place of reverence and remembrance. 

3. I Revisit My Old Base

The cab driver left Huế and headed southwest. We drove 20 minutes, and entered an area filled with old tombs. As we crept along, memories flickered in my head, and vague recollections filled in the blanks. This was the site of my old Army base. Called Camp Eagle when I flew from there during the war, the place had been returned to its old use as a cemetery, mostly for royalty. The buildings, sandbags, roads, and power poles the American military had erected there were long gone, either discarded, or sold off for whatever scrap value the metal could bring. Nhat told me that even the thin common wire that was once buried to connect every army unit on the mile-long base had been ripped up and sold. 

Then, as we drove further on, in an instant, the view clarified for me as I sensed a strong connection to my past. I asked the driver to stop: I’d found it, the exact location of my old company site. The HQ building would have been there; revetments for the helicopters there; the officer’s club just over there. I envisioned where everything had been, the maintenance building, motor pool, and where my hooch once sat. The structures were gone. Walls torn down, their wood floors and tin roofs carted off, and the sacred tombs once more prevalent. My year-long tour in the war rushed through my head, and then quickly brought me back to that empty plot. 

Nhat was waiting for my reminiscence to end so we could move on. Born exactly 9 months after I left Vietnam, Nhat and I had joked about the timing of his birth. I assured him I’d never met his mother, and in our easy conversation I knew that the young man viewed Vietnam much differently than I did. It was his country, a place where he’d grown up. I’d grown up there in a much different way, and my connection to Vietnam will always be fraught. Despite my mixed feelings about the outcome of the war, I was gratified to see that the Vietnamese had reclaimed their country.

Tomb of Emperor Minh Mang in Huế, Vietnam.
Steve Barze / Shutterstock.com

4. Tomb Of Emperor Minh Mang

Nhat and I boarded a small boat in Huế, and headed 10 kilometers (6.21 miles) down the Perfume River to visit the tomb of Minh Mang, one of the emperors of Vietnam during the Nguyen Dynasty. Minh Mang governed southern and central Vietnam from 1820 until his death in 1841. The tomb and surrounding grounds are exquisitely preserved, despite years of neglect during the war. Walking the grounds, I looked upward wondering how many times I’d flown over this spot, with no interest in the significance it held for the Vietnamese. 

5. The Road To Khe Sanh

A highlight of my return trip was the drive to Khe Sanh. On Highway QL-9, our driver took me past a number of places I remembered flying to and over: the site of an old firebase named Vandergrift; the so-called Rock Pile, where I earned the Distinguished Flying Cross after a dangerous rescue flight; Khe Sanh base and airstrip; and Co Roc Mountain, across the Laotian border a few miles away. Standing where the old airstrip was, as far as I could see, were coffee beans ripening in the misty sunshine of Khe Sanh. The site is now one of Vietnam’s largest coffee plantations. Since my visit, a museum has been built, and Khe Sanh hosts thousands of tourists each year to one of the war’s most heavily contested battle sites. There again, it was gratifying to see the reclamation of that once war-torn country.

Nearby, we visited a small Hmong village, where those rural mountain people live simple lives, foraging and getting by on the bounty of the land. Like everywhere I went in Vietnam, children gathered around offering soda, trinkets, crudely crafted “war relics,” and rice packets begging for money in their minimal English. With Nhat looking on, I visited the kids, knowing their future is, if not bountiful by American standards, at least free from conflict.

Author with Hmong children at the Laos–Vietnam border; Nhat is in the background.
Author with Hmong children at the Laos–Vietnam border; Nhat is in the background (Photo Credit: Byron Edgington)

6. Da Nang And Marble Mountain

Leaving Huế behind, Nhat, our driver, and I headed south on QL-1, the road that was once called the “Street Without Joy,” then across the Hai Van Pass, and into Da Nang. The now bustling city was once a leading entry and takeoff point for American GIs as Army and Marine troops filtered through Da Nang to duty stations north or south of it. Today, Da Nang is a leading entry point for tourists flying in from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. Nearby Marble Mountain is a former US Marine Corps base, and the location of several quality hotels fronting beaches that are unsurpassed for beauty and enjoyment.

Inside a former field hospital atop Marble Mountain.
Inside a former field hospital atop Marble Mountain (Photo Credit: Byron Edgington)

The “Marble Mountain” itself is, as the name suggests, laden with actual marble. Nhat and I scaled its slippery slope, and discovered a cavern at the top of the peak. Nhat explained that, during the war, the cave was the site of a field hospital for wounded North Vietnamese and Viet Cong soldiers. In the picture, I’m enjoying a visit with Vietnamese troops in the cave where their fathers might once have been treated for battle wounds.

7. Hoi An: A Hidden Treasure

Down the coast from Da Nang is the little village of Hoi An, one of the prettier, and least visited sites in Vietnam. We drove there in the afternoon, explored the beautiful hamlet, its signature canals, and varied architecture — from wooden houses to ubiquitous French-influenced structures and its Vietnamese so-called tube houses. Hoi An’s Japanese Bridge may be one of the most photographed structures in Vietnam. A covered bridge, it opened for use in 1593! We ate a wonderful meal at an outdoor café, and returned to the hotel near Marble Mountain by 9 p.m. Hoi An is a hidden treasure, not to be missed.

8. Leaving Vietnam The Second Time

The first time I left Vietnam, on March 17, 1971, I cheered along with my colleagues aboard the World Airways flight from Cam Ranh Bay. On what we called the “Freedom Bird” that day, I couldn’t wait to get out of Vietnam.

When I left Hanoi in September of ‘92 aboard the Air Vietnam flight — bound for Kuala Lumpur and then home to the States — I felt an entirely different emotion. Vietnam will always have two meanings for me: the war, and a 2-week visit there that meant closure. For Vietnam veterans reading this, I encourage a return visit if you’re able. On my visit, the poisonous past had been buried, and the Vietnamese people treated me like another tourist from outside, welcoming me to their beautiful, exotic, and well-tended country.

For more on visiting Vietnam, consider reading: 

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What It Was Like Returning To Vietnam After Serving In The War https://www.travelawaits.com/2720839/returning-to-vietnam-after-serving-in-the-war/ Sun, 09 Jan 2022 22:08:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2720839 With sons of former enemies in Vietnam

It was the strangest vision I’d ever had. The airplane stopped at the gate, I looked out the window and saw the sign, in English, it read, “Welcome to Hanoi International Airport.” Never in my wildest imaginings did I think I’d ever see that sign. On my first tour of Vietnam, I flew an Army helicopter, carrying troops to engage the enemy. Landing anywhere near Hanoi would have been unthinkable. Now, I was safely seated in an airplane, at Noi Bai Airport in Hanoi, about to begin my second tour as a tour-ist. Surreal doesn’t quite say it.

Byron and his helicopter crew on the Khe Sanh Airstrip January 1971
Byron and his helicopter crew on the Khe Sanh Airstrip January 1971 (Photo Credit: Byron Edgington)

Welcome To Hanoi

In July 1970, I turned 21 in Vietnam, halfway through my year of flying combat missions. I returned to Vietnam in September 1992 for a different kind of tour, not flying this time, but sightseeing, and getting to know the Vietnamese people. 

Mark Twain once wrote, “Travel is fatal to bigotry, prejudice, and narrow-mindedness.” My time in combat in Vietnam changed my life; my return as a tourist/veteran changed me yet again. And, despite the poisonous history between our countries, the Vietnamese accepted me in their midst with open arms. For two weeks I traveled across Vietnam — no longer a war but a country — reveling in its recovery, and absorbing the gracious acceptance of its people.

I Meet My Interpreter/Guide

My guide, a young fellow named Nhat (Nyut), met me at the arrivals gate holding his company-crafted sign with my name spelled correctly, which doesn’t happen often. This simple fact helped erase a misconception for me. While stationed in Vietnam as a soldier, I’d seen local Vietnamese only in a subservient capacity. Filling various roles for the U.S. military, they were assigned jobs such as hooch maid, PX clerk, trash removal, etc. They appeared to be simple, poorly-educated peasants. Nhat explained that, in fact, 95 percent of the Vietnamese are literate, compared to a rate of roughly 90 percent in the U.S. at that time. 

A Hotel In Hanoi

As we headed into downtown Hanoi, I was impressed with the city’s layout and infrastructure, much of it owing to French influence. One thing I noticed was that drivers considered traffic signals mere suggestions, and they loved the sound of their car horns. “Honking is a common courtesy,” Nhat said.

We arrived at the hotel, a modest three stories near Hoàn Kiếm Lake. This is the 30-acre lake in the middle of Hanoi that Navy pilot John McCain parachuted into after his SkyHawk was shot down in October of ‘67. It would not be my first brush with war-related images and artifacts. Nhat told me that the Vietnamese don’t refer to the “Vietnam War;” they call it The American War, to distinguish it from several conflicts they’ve encountered across a thousand years of their embattled history.

The Rice Bowl Of Asia

One reason Vietnam has been contested is its fecundity. The southern half of the country has been called the rice bowl of Asia. In most areas of what was once South Vietnam, rice can be harvested three times a year. The northern half of the country is less fertile. Indeed, one of the rationales for reunification, according to Nhat, was that the north could barely feed itself. 

Seeing a prominent military presence in Hanoi, 30 years after hostilities ended, I asked why? Nhat’s answer was cryptic, and instructive: “We have a very big neighbor,” he said, referring to China, just 40 miles away.

We Explored Vietnam’s Capital City

After a rest at the hotel, I met Nhat, and together we motorbiked — him driving, me riding — to explore Hanoi. First stop was a simple restaurant, where we enjoyed traditional Vietnamese spring rolls, and a cold 33 Beer. Total cost for the two of us at that time, about $4.00. Then it was off to explore the area.

If anyone doubts the industrious nature of the Vietnamese, a walk around Hoàn Kiếm Lake will dispel that. People offered street food, sold arts and crafts, and hand-made clothing items. Some were refilling ballpoint pen inserts and selling them! 

Puppetry Is A Cultural Touchstone 

Near Hoàn Kiếm Lake we visited a must-see cultural touchstone. Thang Long Water Puppet Theater is a small venue with big significance for the Vietnamese. The 1-hour show featured several sketches, as puppets recreated the history of this small southeast Asian nation. For more about Hoàn Kiếm Lake and its significance to the Vietnamese, see Wendy Lee’s TravelAwaits article from August 2020

Pro Tips: Thang Long Water Puppet Theater is located at 57B Đinh Tiên Hoàng St. Book early in the day, as shows sell out. Current ticket prices, according to the website, are 100,000 VND (Dong), or about $4.50.

The Tomb Of Ho Chi Minh.
Efired / Shutterstock.com

The Tomb Of Ho Chi Minh

Ho Chi Minh is called the George Washington of Vietnam, and reverence for him endures long after his death in 1969. Nhat and I headed to Central Hanoi to visit the tomb of this venerated leader. The mausoleum looks across Ba Dinh Square, where Ho declared Vietnam’s independence from France on September 2, 1945. In his speech that day, Ho said, “All men are born equal: the Creator has given us inviolable rights, life, liberty, and happiness!,” words that should sound familiar to every American.

We entered a queue, two abreast, waiting to enter the massive tomb. The experience was martial, almost magisterial. Soldiers in formal uniform checked our attire, warned that no pictures were allowed, marched us to the entrance, and ushered us inside. 

And there was the great man lying in state, encased under glass, withered hands across his chest, wispy beard poking from his chin. I shuffled past Ho Chi Minh, 5 feet away, as North Vietnamese soldiers, former enemies, watched my every move. Unnerving perhaps, fascinating certainly, an experience I’ll never forget, absolutely. 

Pro Tips: Located at 8 Hung Vuong Street, admission is free. Expect long lines at various times. Take an umbrella, as it may be hot or rainy. No shorts and no cameras are allowed. Ho’s body travels to Russia yearly, usually in October, for stabilization, so check before visiting.

Entryway, Hoa Lo Prison, the former Hanoi Hilton.
Byron Edgington

The Vietnam Military History Museum

Adjacent to Ba Dinh Square, the military museum is a repository of items from both the American war, including pieces that could very well be from John McCain’s SkyHawk, and from the Vietnamese success at Dien Bien Phu, the 1954 battle that drove French forces out of Vietnam. At the front gate of the museum sits a famous battle tank. The heavy machine is the very one that crashed through another gate, this one at the Presidential Palace in Saigon, now Ho Chi Minh City, on April 19, 1975, ending the American presence in Vietnam.

Returning to the hotel, Nhat and I entered Hai Ba Trung Street, part of the “French Quarter” of Hanoi. We stopped by an arch reading Maison Centrale, or Central House. Behind the arch once sat the infamous Hỏa Lò Prison. In Vietnamese, the name means “furnace.” To American POWs, it meant the Hanoi Hilton. The prison structure has been razed, but the arch remains. The property is now the site of another hotel, the Somerset Grand.

Pro Tips: At Dien Bien Phu Street, adjacent to Ba Dinh Square, the museum holds many artifacts from various Vietnamese military efforts. The Hanoi Hilton is located at No. 49 Hai Ba Trung Street.

Ha Long Bay

Ha Long, “Descending Dragon” in Vietnamese, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With 600 square miles, containing 775 small islets, Ha Long Bay is ideal for boat tours. Ha Long Bay figures prominently in Vietnamese history as the site of a crucial naval battle.

Pro Tip: Two hours by car from Hanoi, with numerous small hotels, the best way to see Ha Long is to book a cruise from either Hanoi or Hai Phong.

Cúc Phương National Park

Nhat and I traveled 2 hours by car southeast of Hanoi to visit Cúc Phương National Park. The park holds human artifacts dating back 12,000 years. Cúc Phương covers 100 square miles (62,000 acres), where dozens of species of birds, mammals, reptiles, and fish are protected. Cúc Phương is an excellent place to hike and bird. With our guide, Nhat and I explored caves that were once occupied by ancient inhabitants. 

Pro Tip: The best time to visit the park is the dry season, November–February.

Author and Mr. Loan, former adversaries meet.
Byron Edgington

Former Enemies Meet

Nearby, I met Mr. Loan, my former adversary, a retired member of the North Vietnamese Army. Sharing war stories, we realized that we’d been stationed close to each other during that conflict. It filled me with wonder knowing that Loan may have watched me fly over him during my time in his country. He agreed to pose with me for a picture, and I felt a bit of closure. I hope he did as well.

Seeing Hanoi was one of those travel experiences that touched me more than I’d expected it might. I saw no battle damage, only the appearance of prosperity. I sensed no animosity; people greeted me warmly. I didn’t expect to wish I had a few more days there, but I did. It was time to head south to what was once called South Vietnam. The second part of my trip would dredge up vivid memories of flying over that beautiful country 20 years prior.

For more to do in Vietnam:

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How A Meeting 40 Years Ago Still Inspires My Travels Today https://www.travelawaits.com/2712476/how-a-meeting-40-years-ago-still-inspires-my-travels-today/ Wed, 08 Dec 2021 16:17:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2712476 Shree Swaminarayan Temple in Pune

I still have a friend from my travels to India 40 years ago. We spoke recently. He’s in Germany; I’m in New York. We spoke about how “derring-do” it was to travel to India and sit at the feet of a holy man, a guru, all those years ago. Our chat left me reminiscing on how amazing and how special that travel experience was and how much I learned.

The adventure started in leafy North London, where I’m originally from. One night I was walking when I saw a large Victorian house with a sign outside. “Quaesitor,” it read, and underneath, it explained that the term meant searcher.

"Sannyasin (1976)"
Sannyasin (1976) (Photo Credit: Elizabeth Green)

Courses, Meditation, Massage: Everyone Welcome

I went inside to discover people dressed all in orange wearing brown beads around their necks. At the bottom of the beads was a picture of an Indian man with grey hair and beard. I found out later this was the guru, Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh, now known as Osho. These were his disciples, and everyone in attendance intended to head to India, soon to sit at his feet and learn how to surrender.

I like to join in, so I started attending these meetings. The meditations were led by Poonam, an older English woman, robed in orange.

I met new people, learned new things, and then one day, Poonam asked me if I would take her 10-year-old daughter Soma to see her father, Teertha, at the ashram in Pune, India.

“Yes, of course,” I said.

“Well, you’d better get something orange to wear.”

This is how my India journey began. I was to become a sannyasin, a follower of the guru. 

I set out on this trip with joy and slight trepidation, but not fear. I decided to leave my fear behind and grasp the adventure of going to an ashram to meditate and discover myself.

Making My Way To India

Soma and I traveled to Bombay as it was then called. The journey was long and not uneventful. She screamed through the airport; no one blinked. It was long before the days when not even a bottle of water was allowed through the airport. So a screaming child, screaming for her mother, caused not a ripple.

This was the longest trip I had ever undertaken, and I knew no one in India. It was and still is a 10-hour journey with a significant time difference: 5 hours ahead of London, 10 hours ahead of New York. Should you choose to go to India today, there are far more travel choices than there were when I visited in the ’70s. My advice: Be comfortable. It’s a long flight.

I recommend Etihad and Air India. We flew Singapore Airlines and enjoyed good service and attentive flight staff, but that was a long time ago.

We arrived to the heat. I had packed light with my one orange dress — it was not even a color I liked, but never mind.

"Cleaning break"
Cleaning break (Photo Credit: Elizabeth Green)

The Ashram Experience (And Beyond)

On arrival at the ashram, Soma ran into her father’s arms and I was alone in India. They had arranged accommodation for me, so I laid my weary head down, ready for Guru Purnima, a day when Indians would arrive from across the whole country to fete their guru.

India was panoramic and spectacular and hot. Drinking water constantly was a must.

Me? I did the full ashram experience. I took on work in the ashram and was given cleaning to do. Bhagwan gave his followers Indian names: I became Ma Deva Veena — divine musical instrument of the master.  Little by little, I confided in my new best friend at the ashram.

“Damn, Vasudha! I don’t do cleaning at home in England.”

“Yes, but it’s not cleaning they’re interested in here. Treat it like a meditation. Look inside while you’re doing it. It’s something to do while you’re cleaning your mind.”

I thought, “Thank you, Vasudha. Sounds very wise.”

Vasudha is Italian, feisty, and creative. I was invited to her house on the river, and we took a boat and sailed down the river before dinner.

“Vasudha, what are these black fruit on the trees?”

“Veena, they’re bats.” I shuddered. This was so far from my old life. I loved it.

I love people. I’m curious and questioning, and so are the Indian people I met. One time, on a train going to Goa, where I ventured to experience the beautiful beaches, I told some fellow passengers I was English. They asked, “Do you know my cousin in Birmingham?” As if!

Different culture, different people, so many new traditions. Many were poor yet happy to greet us.

Funnily enough, although Indian food is very popular in the UK, the food in India is far less spicy. Once you’ve eaten Indian food in India, nothing will ever taste as good again.

"Ecstasy with the Guru"
Ecstasy with the Guru (Photo Credit: Elizabeth Green)

A Message From The Guru

All those years ago, I sat at the guru’s feet and asked him why could I not meet “the one, my soulmate?”

Rajneesh said that unconsciously I did not really want to fall in love, so I chose people with whom my love could never be fulfilled. If they became available, I would drop the idea of pursuing them.

Something about this resonated, so I stayed around the ashram doing his meditations. Some involved dancing nataraj, chaotic breathing, and dynamic meditation. These are all explained online. If you’re curious, just Google Osho Meditations.

Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh, also known as Osho
Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh (Photo Credit: Elizabeth Green)

‘A Miracle Is A Change In Perception From Fear To Love’

I like to travel with a purpose: In this case, it was to achieve and learn something. I found like-minded people also came to seek out inner peace and understanding. This was exciting and exhilarating whilst also strange, new, and unknown. It turned out to have a life-long effect. My trip to India began my journey of self-love.

Adele, the singer, declared the other day that her new relationship is the first in her life built from self-love as its foundation. This is magnificent and not always easy.

Interestingly, 40 years ago, the guru told me to take this road whilst surrendering. In the late ’70s, I sat at his feet and looked into his eyes, which were full of love. Rajneesh died in 1990, but his words, his teachings, and his wisdom live on at the OSHO International Meditation Resort in Pune. It’s not the same as in the days when I sat at his feet, but these kinds of journeys and experiences are nevertheless worthwhile. Today, there is a guesthouse, robes for rent, a pool, beautiful gardens, and meditation offerings.

There are Osho meditation centers worldwide from London, my place of birth, to New York, where I have now lived for 12+ years. There’s also the Emmy Award-winning Netflix series Wild Wild Country, which explores the guru’s “utopia gon awry” in Oregon.

If You Want To Go To India

In addition to investing in a comfortable route on a good airline, know that vaccinations are necessary and beware of the drinking water. (I got hepatitis A. Thankfully, I recovered completely taking ayurvedic medication and following a special fat-free diet for my liver.) Do your homework first, and it will be a wonderful trip.

Want to go to India? Consider all our India content here, and get your travel inspiration fix with our Inspire content.

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9 Things To Know Before Visiting Nepal https://www.travelawaits.com/2698068/things-to-know-before-visiting-nepal/ Wed, 06 Oct 2021 20:11:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2698068 The Himalayas of Nepal

Nepal is a tiny, landlocked country surrounded by two giant neighbors, China and India. When it comes to adventure travel, Nepal is one of the best destinations in the world, with challenging trekking routes, breathtaking glaciers, and picturesque valleys. But even if you have no desire to spend a single day in hiking boots, there is so much to see and do in this unique country. But there are definitely some things worth knowing before you visit.

1. Where Is Nepal? 

Nepal, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia, lying along the southern slopes of the Himalayas, with the Tibet Autonomous Region of China to the north, and India to the south, east, and west.

International arrivals at Tribhuvan Airport, Nepal
Tribhuvan Airport (Arkadij Schell / Shutterstock.com)

2. How Do I Get There And What About A Visa?

Most visitors fly into Tribhuvan International Airport, in Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu. Only a small number of international airlines fly to Nepal, and they fill up fast, so if traveling over peak periods, book flights well in advance.

If entering by land, there are numerous border crossings between India, in the south of Nepal, and these can be navigated fairly easily, especially when organized through tour agencies.

Getting a visa for Nepal is easy. You can get your visa on arrival if flying or if entering by road (for most nationalities). A 15-day visa costs $25, a 30-day visa costs $40, and a 90-day visa costs $100.

A bus in the village of Ghatchhina, Nepal
Dzianis_Rakhuba / Shutterstock.com

3. Getting Around

Buses are the main form of public transport. Local buses run pretty much everywhere and will stop for anyone, but I’m going to say that while incredibly cheap, I don’t recommend them. Tourist buses are the most common way to get between cities and are more comfortable and less crowded than the local busses, but journeys can be long and arduous. Roads are shocking, traffic is appalling, buses stop frequently for meals/tea breaks, and a breakdown or flat tire is almost guaranteed. It once took me 7 hours to travel the 124 miles from Kathmandu to Pokhara!

Flying is the transport of choice for many visitors, and it’s definitely the fastest way to travel. When faced with the choice between a cramped 24-hour bus ride, or $100 for an internal flight, I know which one I’d choose! Bear in mind flights are weather dependent and are often canceled at the last minute.

A hotel in Pokhara, Nepal
A hotel in Pokhara, Nepal (Yurii Borysov / Shutterstock.com)

4. Where To Stay

Accommodation is varied and plentiful. Nepal is no stranger to tourists, and no matter where you go, you’ll find a place to rest your head. The greatest variety of options can be found in the most popular tourist spots of Kathmandu, Pokhara, and Chitwan, with everything from luxurious 5-star accommodations to basic guesthouses. Prices vary substantially from region to region, but for the most part, accommodations are remarkably affordable. A teahouse on a trek can cost as little as a few dollars a night, while a safari lodge in Chitwan could set you back $250 a night.

Trekking in the Himalayas of Nepal
Sarah Kingdom

5. Trekking

Eight of the world’s 10 highest peaks are in Nepal, as well as countless trekking routes. If you want to trek you’ll need to organize a “Trekkers Information Management System” card, and for more remote treks you’ll need a special permit. If you’re booked on a group trek, which I recommend, the tour operator should organize this on your behalf. Some interesting, unfrequented treks include the Manaslu Circuit, the Gokyo-Cho-La Pass, the Tsum Valley, the Kanchenjunga Trail, the Rolwaling Trail, and the Nar Phu Valley.

When you think of Nepal and trekking, Mt. Everest probably springs to mind, and if that’s the case, you can read more about that here. But trekking isn’t the only way to see Mt. Everest. Travelers can take a one-hour round trip flight from Kathmandu to see Mt. Everest from the air; a fantastic trip for photographers, as the airlines only sell window seats, ensuring everyone gets a great view.

Pashupatinath Temple (Photo Credit: Nepal Photography)

6. Nepal Is Much More Than Mountains

Nepal might be famous for its mountains, but there are plenty of other amazing things to do that don’t include trekking. Nepal’s bustling capital, Kathmandu, is a historic city where three ancient kingdoms meet. Highlights through the Kathmandu Valley include the Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and Patan Durbar squares (formerly royal kingdoms), the ancient Swayambhunath, and Boudhanath Buddhist stupas, as well as Pashupatinath Hindu temple. Outside of the Kathmandu Valley, Lumbini is the birthplace of Buddha, Pokhara is a vibrant and picturesque city known for Phewa Lake, and there are several safari parks like the national parks of Chitwan and Bardia, where you can see wildlife or go paragliding and bungee jumping

A decorated entrance at Bhaktapur Durbar Square
A decorated entrance at Bhaktapur Durbar Square (Catalin Lazar / Shutterstock.com)

7. Language, Religion, And Customs

Language

Nepali is an Indo-Aryan language, similar to Hindi spoken in India (Indian travelers should understand enough to get around). English is a secondary language spoken mostly in large cities like Kathmandu. Outside Kathmandu, English is spoken less, but getting around is still manageable. Simply smile and say Namaste, which is a traditional Hindu greeting meaning, essentially, “the divine spirit with me, bows to the divine spirit within you” or “my soul recognizes your soul.” You’ll say Namaste to everyone, and everyone will say it to you, but unlike at the end of your yoga class back home, here it’s used for pretty much everything — a greeting, goodbye, and even “pardon me, you’re in my way.” When saying Namaste, you hold your hands as if in prayer. Another good word to know is “thank you,” dhanyavad, pronounced: dahn-ya-vahd.

Religion

About 80 percent of Nepal’s residents are Hindu, 10 percent are Buddhist, and the rest are a mixed bag. The major religious festivals are a cross-pollination of both Hinduism and Buddhism. You’ll see as many Hindu symbols and temples around Nepal as you will statues and devotions to the Buddha.

Some Dos & Don’ts

If you want to be respectful in Nepal, there are a few golden rules: Don’t touch people on the head (the most sacred part of the body), don’t point with your finger (use a flat hand or your chin), don’t eat or pass food with your left hand (considered dirty and unhygienic), show respect by using both hands to give or receiving something (including money), remove your shoes before entering a temple or monastery, and always walk around a stupa clockwise.

Momos (Photo Credit: Nepal Photography)

8. Food And Drink

Nepalese cuisine is absolutely delicious, and it’s possible to have a filling and delicious meal for a few dollars. My favorites are momos, Nepal’s version of dumplings, made with curry spices, ground meats, veggies, or cheese, and served steamed or fried.

If you’re craving a taste of home, the restaurants in Thamel cater to travelers, and you’ll find plenty of familiar meals catering to western taste buds.

I love street food, but Nepalese street food has been known to cause stomach issues in some travelers! I’d advise you to stick to well-maintained and busy restaurants or, better still, take a reputable street food tour! Try Backstreet Academy’s Secret Street Food Tour to visit some of Kathmandu’s local haunts. 

Tap water is not filtered or purified in Nepal. It’s best to buy bottled water.  Avoid fresh fruit juices on the streets, and any fruits and veggies washed in tap water. Perhaps have bottled water to brush your teeth.

Toilets in the village of Annapurna, Nepal
Toilets in the village of Annapurna, Nepal (Krzysztof Skalny / Shutterstock.com)

9. Toilets!

While westernized hotels and restaurants, and most tourist attractions have western toilets, you’ll find most local establishments and public restrooms have squat toilets. If you are used to sitting on a “porcelain throne” at home, squatting over a hole in the ground can be a little off-putting at first. But squat toilets are common throughout this part of the world, so the sooner you get used to it, the better.  Carry a packet of tissue and hand sanitizer.

Some Bonus Tips:

Avoid Fake Tourist Guides

Keep an eye out for overly-friendly locals at popular tourist spots, who may approach you and begin “sharing’ the history of the site.” Often these are unofficial touts, and once finished with your “tour,” they’ll demand money for their time. If someone approaches you and starts a lecture, politely cut them off and ask how much their tour will cost, if they’re reluctant to give a specific price or say “pay me what you think it’s worth,” walk away.

Don’t Buy Knives

The famous “kukri” curved knife is still part of the Nepalese army’s weapons, and it’s almost 15 inches long. While you may be keen to buy one to show off to friends at home, it’s risky. Exporting a knife from Nepal usually isn’t a problem, but that may be a different story when your flight lands at home.

Eating “Buff”

You’ll see “buff” as an item in many Nepali restaurants, it means buffalo. Cows are sacred for Hindus and most refrain from eating them, eating buffalo instead.

Prayer Wheels And Prayer Flags

Prayer Wheels: These large, cylindrical objects are found in front of Buddhist temples and are inscribed with mantras, which are supposed to help balance your karma when you spin them.

Prayer Flags: When walking around temples or in the mountains, you will see strings of multicolored flags waving in the breeze. They are called lung ta (wind horse) and are traditional Tibetan prayer flags. The flags always have five colors: blue, white, red, green, and yellow, which represent the five elements, and are inscribed with Buddhist prayers.

You’ll find prayer flags for sale in many shops, so take home some for your loved ones. Just don’t let them touch the ground, it’s disrespectful.

Don’t Talk Politics

Nepal had a decades-long, brutal civil war in the mid-’90s, was a monarchy until 2008, and is still a relatively new republic. Keep this in mind and avoid bringing up uncomfortable political topics when conversing with locals.

The 2015 Earthquake’s Effects On Nepal’s UNESCO Sites

In 2015, Nepal suffered a devastating earthquake which the country is still recovering from. The country is rebuilding, and everywhere you look you’ll find construction.

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13 Amazing Experiences In And Near Kathmandu, Nepal https://www.travelawaits.com/2696988/kathmandu-nepal-things-to-do/ Thu, 16 Sep 2021 21:08:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2696988 Boudhanath in Kathmandu, Nepal

Magical and mythical in equal measure, the very name Kathmandu evokes images of ancient temples, rising amongst the jagged, snowy peaks of the Himalayas. Nepal’s crowded, colorful and chaotic capital city fills the Kathmandu Valley, in the heart of the country. This energetic and bustling city is usually the first point of call for international visitors to the country and is everything you imagined and more.

I’m going to give you my suggestions for an unforgettable visit to this wonderful city, both in the city itself and a few highly recommended places a short drive away.

Do note that in 2015, an earthquake devastated some of Kathmandu’s historic sites, and reconstruction is ongoing.

In Kathmandu

Street in Thamel; Kathmandu, Nepal
Sarah Kingdom

1. Thamel

Thamel is Kathmandu’s tourist district and the beating heart of Kathmandu’s traveler scene. While it is hardly typical of the rest of Nepal, this crowded and frenetic spot still manages to retain an Old World feel, with its rows of prayer flags and trundling bicycle rickshaws. Trekking and rafting companies, hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars, and souvenir shops are all jam-packed together in its narrow streets. The shops overflowing with brightly colored clothing, jewelry, paintings, carvings, bronze statues, music, and books, (shopkeepers here can be ruthless so feel free to bargain to get a good price!)

Thamel is both a destination in itself and a gateway to the city’s treasures and within walking distance of many of Kathmandu’s main sights.

Pashupatinath Temple; Kathmandu, Nepal
Sarah Kingdom

2. Pashupatinath

Pilgrims, devotees, and a motley collection of painted sadhus (Hindu ascetics) flock to Pashupatinath Temple, the oldest and holiest Hindu temple in the city, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of the sadhus are friendly and happy to be photographed for a small fee, and in return, they’ll give you a blessing. Pashupatinath is a sprawling mix of more than 500 temples, shrines, pagodas, and ashrams. While it is revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike, the main temple is off-limits to anyone who’s not Hindu. Non-Hindus are welcome to wander the rest of the vast grounds. The temple is on the banks of the Bagmati River and this is where many Hindu Nepalis are cremated. Visitors get an uncensored (and at times confronting) perspective of life, death, and reincarnation from the open-air cremation of bodies on the funeral pyres that line the river bank.

Pro Tips: Visit in the morning between 7 and 10 a.m. to see the cremations, or visit in the evening from 6 p.m. to see the aarti (worship with fire).

It should go without saying, but when visiting Pashupatinath, respect the privacy of mourners. Photographing funerals and funeral pyres is ethically dubious, so think twice about whether you really need that photo.

Boudhanath (Boudha Stupa); Kathmandu, Nepal
Zzvet / Shutterstock.com

3. Boudhanath (Boudha Stupa)

With its golden spire glimmering in the sunlight, Boudhanath dominates the Kathmandu skyline and is within easy walking distance of Pashupatinath (about 20 minutes). This is the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal, and an important center for Tibetan Buddhism and culture, as well as being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The stupa is surrounded by striking religious artwork and statues, as well as monasteries and shrines, and brightly colored flags flutter overhead. Early mornings and evenings are the best times to visit when prayers are offered and tour groups are absent, and as the sun sets, the Tibetan community comes out to circumambulate the stupa, accompanied by the gentle chanting and spinning of prayer wheels. While often very crowded and noisy, Boudhanath stupa is definitely worth visiting and will leave you with an enduring image of Nepal. Rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake, this is one of Nepal’s most unmissable attractions.

Durban Square; Kathmandu, Nepal
Sarah Kingdom

4. Kathmandu Durbar Square (Basantapur)

At the heart of Kathmandu, Durbar Square is a vibrant public square that was once the royal residence of the Kathmandu kingdom. The square has one of the highest concentrations of well-preserved ancient buildings in the world and makes for a stunning open-air museum. Although the square was damaged during the 2015 earthquake, there is still an array of architectural gems to see, including the Hanuman Dhoka, Kathmandu’s royal palace, once the seat of power for the kingdom. The Hanuman, Dancing Shiva, and Narsingha statues are well worth seeing, and there are lots of excellent stone carvings and important images on display. In addition to this, the square boasts a number of fantastic museums which look at the history of the palace and the kings who resided there. Sadly, some of the buildings collapsed in the 2015 earthquake, but the beauty of the square remains with its astounding palaces, courtyards, and temples.

No Kathmandu itinerary is complete without visiting the Durbar Squares. Yes, that’s plural! There are actually three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley. The majority of travelers only visit Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, a few minutes’ walk from the Thamel area, but there are in fact, two more, one at Patan and one at Bhaktapur; both deserve a visit, and we will chat about them a little further down this list.

Prayer wheels at Swayambhunath; Kathmandu, Nepal
Prayer wheels at Swayambhunath (Sarah Kingdom)

5. Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)

Founded at the beginning of the 5th century, Swayambhunath Temple is the oldest shrine complex in the Kathmandu Valley and one of its most popular tourist attractions. Situated to the west of Kathmandu, at the top of a winding staircase comprising 365 steps, Swayambhunath has one of the city’s best panoramic views. The first thing you’ll notice here, even before you start on the stairs, is the monkeys. There are hundreds of them and are believed to be holy. The complex, which contains multiple shrines and a stupa, is considered holy to both Buddhists and Hindus.

Pro Tips: If you’re interested in gaining insight into the religious aspect of the temple you can take a tour led by a resident monk.

From the top, you can admire panoramic views of Kathmandu when it’s clear; though Kathmandu unfortunately is very often covered in haze and smog.

Patan (Lalitpur); Kathmandu, Nepal
Cortyn / Shutterstock.com

6. Patan (Lalitpur)

Patan was once a separate kingdom from Kathmandu, with its own kings, culture, and traditions. Now it’s essentially the southern part of Kathmandu city. With its strong Newari (the historical inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley) culture, exquisite temples, and vibrant handicrafts, this is a favorite day trip in Kathmandu. Patan’s Krishna Temple is one of Kathmandu’s finest temples, and unlike most in Nepal, which are usually made from carved wood and brick, Krishna is made of finely crafted stone and stands in the middle of Patan Durbar Square and is a definite highlight of a visit here.

Swapna Bagaicha (Garden of Dreams); Kathmandu, Nepal
nabin sainju / Shutterstock.com

7. Swapna Bagaicha (Garden Of Dreams)

The beautifully restored Gardens of Dreams were created in the 1920s as private gardens, but are now open to the public and provide a peaceful contrast to the busy streets outside. Hidden away within a palace complex, the Edwardian-style garden features many exquisite fountains, pavilions, and pergolas. Located a stone’s throw away from Thamel, this idyllic garden is an ocean of tranquillity.

Food for sale at the Asan Market; Kathmandu, Nepal
Milosz Maslanka / Shutterstock.com

8. Asan Market 

The Asan Market area is one of Kathmandu’s most ancient sections. It has sat at the crossroads of trade routes through the Himalayas for centuries and is still a busy, thriving, and culturally fascinating part of the central city. When traveling, I love to visit the local markets. As one of the most popular markets in Kathmandu, you can shop for just about anything. My favorite shops are those selling spices, as I love to cook and this is the perfect souvenir to bring home.

Freak Street sign; Kathmandu, Nepal
PiercarloAbate / Shutterstock.com

9. Freak Street (Jhochhen Tole)

Freak Street got its English name from the “freakish” looking hippies who hung around here in the 1960s and ’70s when Kathmandu was a popular stop on the “hippie trail.” Only a short walk from Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, this legendary place is now just a shadow of its past, but travelers do still come to check it out.

A Short Distance From Kathmandu

Bhaktapur near Kathmandu, Nepal
Hakat / Shutterstock.com

10. Bhaktapur

Half an hour drive from Kathmandu is Bhaktapur, the seat of power in medieval Kathmandu times. Bhaktapur is known as Nepal’s best-preserved city. The 2015 earthquake claimed many historic buildings, but the one-time flourishing kingdom is still packed with Old World charm. Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and heart of the city is well worth a visit.

Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park; Nepal
3523studio / Shutterstock.com

11. Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park

Shivapuri National Park, 20 miles from Kathmandu, in the north of the Kathmandu Valley, is a great place to come for a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of town or to embark on a longer trek. There are numerous hiking and mountain bike trails through the park, and on a clear day, you can see snow-capped mountains to the north.

Nagi Gompa, a Tibetan Buddhist convent located in the Shivapuri National Park, is home to more than 100 nuns, something rare in a region that predominantly has monasteries for men. Visitors are welcome, and many travelers stop here while hiking in the park.

Dakshinkali Temple near Kathmandu, Nepal
Ishor gurung / Shutterstock.com

12. Dakshinkali Temple

Dakshinkali Temple, 14 miles south of central Kathmandu, tucked away amid the mountains and forests on the edge of the Kathmandu Valley, is a sacred Hindu temple and an important Hindu pilgrimage site. Dakshinkali Temple isn’t for the faint-hearted though; twice a week priests sacrifice male goats and roosters to the bloodthirsty goddess Kali.

Statue of Vishnu at Budhanilkantha, Nepal
Vizz Pix Art / Shutterstock.com

13. Budhanilkantha

On the northern edge of the Kathmandu Valley, 20 minutes from town, Budhanilkantha is a small town famous for the Budhanilkantha Temple. A 16-foot reclining Vishnu stone statue lies in the temple grounds, surrounded by water and stone snakes. It’s the largest stone statue in Nepal and is unusual because the god is lying down.

A Few Bonus Tips

Getting Around Kathmandu

The easiest way to get around short distances is by hiring a bicycle rickshaw. You can also hire a taxi or rent a motorbike. Make sure to negotiate fares prior to your journey.

Safety

Kathmandu is busy and dirty, but it’s also pretty safe, with relatively low crime rates and little crime directed towards travelers. If you take reasonable precautions, (i.e., don’t walk alone after dark in quiet areas), there’s no need to feel unsafe.

Culture And Customs

Kathmandu is a primarily Hindu city, with a sizable Buddhist minority. Most Nepalis dress conservatively, especially older people. It’s best to err on the side of modesty and be culturally respectful, especially when visiting religious sites.

Best Time To Visit

The best time to go to Kathmandu is October–November. During the summer monsoon season (May–September) your plans are likely to get rained out! The second best time to visit is February–May when winter is over but the rains have not yet begun.

There is something about Kathmandu that makes this a truly captivating place, filled with amazing things to do. From the moment I first arrived In Kathmandu it was love at first sight, and hopefully, armed with my suggestions, you will feel the same way, too!

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How To Travel To The Maldives https://www.travelawaits.com/2468649/how-to-visit-the-maldives/ Wed, 15 Sep 2021 16:02:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/2468649/how-to-visit-the-maldives/

Among vacationers, the Maldives are considered legendary; with ivory-white beaches, spectacular sunsets, and crystal-blue waters, the country offers some of the most breathtaking views on earth. Luxury resorts are scattered across the remote islands, offering visitors a once-in-a-lifetime experience. If you’ve ever wanted to spend a few days on your own private island, this is the vacation destination for you.

Relax on pristine beaches. Watch dolphins sporting around the bow of a chartered sailboat. Ready to try snorkeling? The Maldives offers some of the greatest dives in the world.

Whether you prefer restorative pampering or world-class adventure, you’ll find what you’re looking for in the Maldives. Here are a few things you should know while you’re planning your dream vacation.

Where Are The Maldives?

The Maldives are located in the Arabian Sea, about 430 miles southwest of Sri Lanka. It’s made up of 1,200 islands and sandbanks, including many man-made islands — only about 200 of which are inhabited year-round.

Aerial view of a seaplane approaching island in the Maldives
Sven Hansche / Shutterstock.com

How To Get To The Maldives

Because the Maldives are fairly isolated from major landmasses, you won’t be able to fly to any of the islands directly from the United States. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean that you’ll need to plan carefully for the best possible experience.

Traveling By Air

Almost every great vacation starts with a decent flight. And while the lack of direct flights from the U.S. to the Maldives guarantees a certain level of tropical-paradise seclusion, it also means you’ll have to make at least one connection before you can relax on the beach.

U.S. travelers will have to make a connection in Europe, Asia, or the Middle East before heading to Velana International Airport, which sits on the island of Hulhulé, in the North Malé Atoll. From there, it’s just a quick ferry ride to the capital island of Malé. There’s even a bridge — the Sinamalé — that can take you via car from the airport to your resort.

Budget-minded travelers might find the best fares by flying into Colombo, Sri Lanka. The flight from Colombo to Malé takes less than two hours and often beats prices from more distant airports.

However you get to Velana International Airport, if you booked a stay at a resort, a representative will probably meet you on arrival and escort you the rest of the way. That’s what we call five-star service!

All that said, the last thing you want to worry about when planning your vacation is a complicated series of flights. Talk to your travel agent or look for a travel package that includes airfare. Why worry about the details when you can dream about the feeling of sand between your toes?

Ferry on the water by the port of Male in the Maldives
Photoestetica / Shutterstock.com

Traveling The Islands By Boat

Remember that the Maldives consists of more than 1,000 islands, both inhabited and not. That means it’s an ideal nation to explore by sea.

If you’re staying in a resort on Malé, talk to the staff about chartering a dhoni, the island nation’s traditional sailboats. You might pay a pretty penny — something between $400 and $800 per day, according to Lonely Planet — but it’s the most exciting way to see islands both remote and closer to your home-away-from-home.

A cheaper option is to take a series of ferries from one island to the next. Note that the national network of ferries is known for changing departure times and even canceling trips without much notice, so this method of travel is best for those with a relaxed schedule.

Ferries tend to travel only between islands that remain inhabited all year round. To reach the uninhabited islands, you’ll have to hire a speedboat. Lonely Planet puts speedboat travel from Malé to distant islands at anywhere from $80 to $450 — but this may be your best bet if you’re looking for a private island experience.

Traveling By Cruise Ship

If you’ve got the time, a cruise to the Maldives can be a life-changing experience. Only a few major cruise lines visit Malé, and most itineraries take a few weeks to get to the island; you’ll likely spend a week or more on the ocean. Princess Cruises’ Singapore to Cape Town trip, for instance, lasts for an entire month and visits 10 ports of call including Malé.

Most cruises will visit other countries in the Indian Ocean, and if you travel to explore other cultures, that’s an appealing prospect. That said, for other travelers, a cruise is decidedly not the true Maldivian vacation experience. If you can get to Malé via another method and want to take to the Maldivian waters for a shorter amount of time, consider local cruises like those offered by MV Yasawa Princess.

Colorful sunset over ocean on Maldives
S.Borisov / Shutterstock.com

When Is the Best Time To Visit The Maldives?

The Maldives has a warm climate all year, but it has a rainy season, which typically lasts from May to October. If you’re traveling on a budget — and we should note that the Maldives are fairly expensive, even under the best circumstances — you could book your visit during that stretch and hope to get lucky. The rainfall usually only lasts for a few hours, and if you’re heading out for snorkeling or scuba diving, you’ll see a greater variety of wildlife during monsoon season.

With that said, if you’re hoping for a picture-perfect vacation with clear, sunny skies, you’ll want to schedule your trip sometime between November and April.

Because the Maldives is an Islamic nation, some travelers avoid booking trips during the month of Ramadan, which usually starts sometime in May or June (it’s based on the Islamic calendar, so the exact dates change from year to year). If you’re staying at a resort, your trip will be mostly unaffected, but if you’re planning on hanging out with the locals, know that almost all restaurants will be closed until sunset during the celebration.

Maldives resort water villas
icemanphotos / Shutterstock.com

What Is There To Do In The Maldives?

As we mentioned, visiting the Maldives is expensive — period. The experience is well worth the money, but to make the most of your trip, you’ll want to plan your excursions carefully. You’ll definitely want a resort as your home base — the country’s restrictive laws don’t apply to the resort islands, and that’s where you’ll find the best beaches.

Living The Resort Life

Most travelers spend the entirety of their Maldivian vacations at resorts, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. If you’re the type of vacationer who likes to kick back and enjoy the view, don’t bother packing your itinerary with day trips; the Maldives are a perfect place to lay back and relax.

Remember: It’s easy to spend a ton of money very quickly. Some resorts charge upward of $5 for a single bottle of water, so try to find an all-inclusive package. If you drink, make sure that alcohol is included with your reservation (or be prepared to pay much higher prices than what you’d find in the States).

Hawksbill Turtle - Eretmochelys imbricata floats under water.
Andrey Armyagov / Shutterstock.com

Snorkeling And Scuba Diving

The islands are surrounded by gorgeous coral reefs with abundant sea life, and most resorts in the Maldives offer snorkeling excursions. Scuba diving is also available at some resorts; the Laamu Atoll, for instance, offers scuba courses for divers of all experience levels. Book early to ensure your spot, especially if you’re vacationing during the peak tourist season (November through April).

One important note: Maldivian drinking water doesn’t have the electrolyte content Americans are accustomed to, since it’s demineralized during the desalination process. If you’re embarking on a physical excursion, you’ll want to bring along a few rehydration salt packets, available at the airport pharmacy and at some resorts.

View of private buildings, Male, Maldives.
gg-foto / Shutterstock.com

Exploring Malé

Most travelers head to the Maldives to enjoy the beaches, but the country’s capital offers a unique cultural experience that certainly justifies a visit. Head to Malé and visit the Old Friday Mosque, the nation’s oldest house of worship. Built in 1658, it’s open to non-Muslims, and it’s a fascinating building for architecture buffs. Malé’s National Museum has a number of interesting cultural exhibits, although many of the museum’s pre-Islamic artifacts were destroyed during the 2012 protests.

After you’ve explored the city, enjoy a meal at the Salt Café, located in the Malé market district. With fresh seafood and a variety of Western-influenced dishes, it’s a great place to relax while planning your next adventure.

Things To Keep In Mind

When visiting any of the inhabited islands of the Maldives, remember to respect the local laws and customs. That means no alcohol, no public displays of affection, and conservative clothing; bathing suits, for instance, are strictly off-limits. That can be something of a culture shock for some travelers, especially since these rules don’t apply on resort islands — so plan accordingly.

Also, while the Maldives has relaxed visa regulations (you can stay for 30 days without a visa), understand that the country’s constitution is based on a strict interpretation of Islamic law. When packing, don’t bring any alcohol, and be prepared for a thorough bag search. You’ll be able to find alcohol at most of the nation’s resorts, albeit with a hefty markup.

The Maldives also bans any sort of “indecent” photography, and customs agents might confiscate materials that seem fairly tame by U.S. standards (for instance, swimsuit photos or romance novels). On your way out of the Maldives, you won’t be able to bring seashells, coral, or sand, so if you’re bringing home souvenirs, keep that in mind.

Planning a trip to the Maldives isn’t necessarily easy, but it’s worth the effort. Evaluate resorts carefully, paying close attention to the cost of food and drinks, and you’ll be able to experience the ultimate island vacation while keeping your budget (somewhat) in check.

Most visitors find that, whatever they spend, it ends up being worth it for the memories. After all, you can’t put a price on paradise.

Related Reading:

  1. Meet The Muraka, A Two-Story Villa Set 16 Feet Beneath The Ocean’s Surface
  2. This Beach In The Maldives Actually Glows In The Dark
  3. 7 Places Where You Can Stay In An Overwater Bungalow
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9 Things To Know Before Visiting Tibet https://www.travelawaits.com/2692312/things-to-know-before-visiting-tibet/ Wed, 08 Sep 2021 23:15:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2692312 Yamdrock Lake

Monks, monasteries, and mountains. Tibet is one of the most unique places you will ever visit. Known as the “Roof of the World,” the “Third Pole,” or the “Land of Snows,” Tibet is one of the most intriguing and mysterious places in the world. This massive, land is home to Buddhist Monasteries, historical sites, vast snow-capped Himalayan Mountains, hairy yaks, beautiful landscapes, and wonderful people.

Planning a trip to Tibet can be a little daunting, given its remote location and political situation, not to mention the permits you need and the stringent government travel requirements. But with a few tips and hints for planning and traveling in Tibet, you can make the trip to the Roof of the World one of the most amazing journeys of your life.

Road from Tibet to Nepal with Himalayan mountains in the background.
Road from Tibet to Nepal (Photo Credit: Laurie Wiseberg)

1. Where Is Tibet?

A lot of people seem to confuse Tibet with Nepal, perhaps because both are Himalayan countries, they share a border and share the summit of Mount Everest. On a map, Tibet is in the heart of Asia between mainland China and India. The vast, high-altitude Tibetan plateau borders Nepal, Bhutan, Burma, mainland China and Xinjiang (East Turkestan).

2. Is Tibet Open To Tourists, And Can I Enter With A Chinese Visa?

Tibet is generally open to foreign travelers except in February and March each year. To enter what China calls the Tibet Autonomous Region, you will need both a Chinese visa and a special Tibet permit. Tibet travel permits are issued by the Chinese government, but only through a certified Tibet travel agency.

3. Can I Travel Independently In Tibet?

Like it or not, the short answer is no, you cannot travel in Tibet on your own (unless you are a Chinese or Hong Kong national). You must be part of a pre-arranged tour and you must travel with a certified Tibet travel agency representative. You will have to book a tour with a Tibetan travel agency, that will then arrange all your travel inside Tibet, including permits, accommodation, entry to attractions, in fact pretty much everything, making it much easier to plan your trip. The good news is that your “organized tour” can actually be a private tour — just you, or you and your choice of traveling companions.  

Local transportation in Lhasa.
Local transportation in Lhasa, Tibet (Photo Credit: Laurie Wiseberg)

4. Is It Safe To Travel In Tibet?

Tibetans are a friendly people, and major crime is not common. Tibet is a safe place, probably safer than many other countries around the world. A few minor incidents do occur, such as pickpockets and minor thefts, and you can find a few scams, which are generally easy to avoid. But bearing in mind that you will always be accompanied by your guide, there’s not much that can go wrong, even solo female travelers can feel safe in Tibet.

5. Will I Get Altitude Sickness?

With an average elevation of 14,750 feet, altitude sickness is a common complaint when traveling to Tibet, though it normally passes in a day or two. The main symptoms of altitude sickness include headaches, nausea, dizziness, vomiting, lack of appetite, and insomnia. The good news is that there are basic steps you can take to prevent altitude sickness from ruining your trip. I’d recommend resting for a couple of days when you arrive in Lhasa, allowing your body to adapt and also asking your doctor if you are a candidate for Diamox, (the most effective medication for altitude sickness).

Buddhist prayer flags in Tibet.
Buddhist prayer flags in Tibet (Photo Credit: Sarah Kingdom)

6. When Is The Best Time To Visit Tibet?

The main season for travel to Tibet is from April to October when the weather is at its best for trekking, sightseeing, and generally traveling around. Given its location on a high plateau, Tibet experiences low temperatures and frost most of the year. Summer is the only time when temperatures get to around 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. As a bonus, oxygen content is higher in the summer, making it easier to acclimatize. Spring and fall are also good times, if you’re looking to beat the summer crowds, but expect chilly nighttime temps. Winter is characterized by freezing temperatures.

It’s important to take into account that entry permits are not given to foreigners from February to March (this is the time of some sensitive anniversaries, particularly the 2008 rebellion that caused all these travel restrictions in the first place). I’d also suggest avoiding Chinese national holidays during the first weeks of May and October when Chinese tourists swarm Tibet.

7. How Can I Get To Tibet?

The most common way to get to Lhasa, Tibet, is by train or airplane. Flights depart daily from several cities in mainland China, as well as from Kathmandu in Nepal. Trains run regularly from several major cities in China. The best way to travel to Tibet, and adjust to the altitude, is to take the train from Xining to Lhasa. It’s a 21-hour-long trip, but it’s a scenic journey on the world’s highest railway.

For those starting in Nepal, you can fly or travel overland with your guide and driver. Traveling overland can put you at a higher risk of getting altitude sickness, so flying tends to be the better option. Bear in mind, if coming from Nepal you will have a different and stricter kind of visa, a “Tibet Group Visa,” that does not allow travel onward into mainland China.

Exterior of the Potala Palace in Lhasa with many tourists walking and observing its large scale.
Potala Palace (Photo Credit: Sarah Kingdom)

8. What Are The Best Places To Visit In Tibet?

Tibet has so much to see, from its magnificent natural scenery to its mysterious religious culture. You won’t be able to see everything on your first trip, so let me point you in the direction of some of the unmissable places you should have on your itinerary.

Pilgrim prostrating himself in Lhasa.
Laurie Wiseberg

Tibet’s capital city of Lhasa is one of the most fascinating cities in the world. This is a city in a time warp, stuck between the modern world and ancient traditions. The city revolves around Barkhor Square, at the center of which is the Jokhang Monastery, Tibet’s most sacred temple. It is here you will see pilgrims murmuring prayers as they complete their journeys of devotion, prostrating themselves in front of the temple or circling around it in a clockwise direction.

There is nothing quite like seeing the golden-roofed Potala Palace, the former residence of the Dalai Lama, rising above the city center. This is the largest and most complete ancient palace building complex in Tibet, containing 13 stories and 1,000 rooms. Building commenced in the 7th century, and reconstruction was undertaken by the 5th Dalai Lama in 1645. This is a holy place for Tibetan Buddhists and attracts thousands of visitors and pilgrims annually.

Monk debating at Sera Monastery.
Monk at Sera Monastery (Photo Credit: Laurie Wiseberg)

You should also visit the “Three Great Tibetan Monasteries,” Drepung, Sera, and Ganden, which lie on the outskirts of Lhasa. Drepung is a complex of many temples and prayer halls, while Sera is famous for daily (3 p.m.) traditional debates among the monks. Ganden, at an altitude of 12,000 feet on Wangbori Mountain makes for a great hike (though you can drive). You are quite likely to see vultures, the sacred birds of Tibet, on a visit here.

Yak and Herdsman at Yamdrok Lake.
Yak and herdsman at Yamdrok Lake (Photo Credit: Sarah Kingdom)

Yamdrok Lake is a freshwater lake about 60 miles south of Lhasa. The lake is regarded as one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. This beautiful lake is over 44 miles long and looks a little like a coiling scorpion. It’s a main stop along the route from Lhasa and Nepal, and you can usually find local Tibetans waiting here with their yaks and mastiffs, offering tourists an opportunity for a particularly scenic selfie.

Tashilhunpo Monastery, on Mt. Nyima near Shigatse, Tibet’s second-largest city, is definitely worth a visit. Covering an area of 37 acres, the monastery has 57 halls, 3,600 rooms and can hold 2,000 worshipers.

Mt Everest covered in snow.
Laurie Wiseberg

Mt Everest, the highest mountain in the world, straddles the Nepal and Tibet border, and it’s easily accessible from the Tibetan side. Private vehicles are no longer allowed at Everest Base Camp (EBC) on the Tibetan side, instead, there is an eco-bus service. Similarly, camping is no longer permitted at the former base camp, instead, travelers can stay in a tented camp near the Rongbuk Monastery, which at over 17,000 feet above sea level, is the highest monastery in the world. Hikers can choose to trek the route from Tingri to EBC, a distance of 43 miles over four days.

Scenery of Mount Kailash.
HelloRF Zcool / Shutterstock.com

Mount Kailash, in Tibet’s far west, is a sacred mountain, recognized as the “center of the world” by Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism, Bon, and Jainism followers. The mountain attracts a continuous stream of pilgrims, both Hindus from nearby India, and Buddhists, who come here to perform a Kora, the ritual circumnavigation of the mountain. Pilgrims believe they can erase the sins from a previous life by doing one Kora, avoid the pain of reincarnation by doing additional Koras, and can turn into a Buddha by doing 100 Koras. Aside from any religious significance, Mt. Kailash is worth a visit. Situated at the southern foot of Mt. Kailash, Lake Manasarovar, a sacred freshwater lake, is another pilgrimage destination, revered both in India and Tibet. 

9. What Kind Of Food Do They Eat In Tibet? 

Tibetan food and drink, like the country’s culture and religion, has its own unique character. The most common dishes reflect what plants and animals are able to survive at an average altitude of 16,000 feet. The daily diet of most Tibetans includes tsampa, butter tea, yak meat, and mutton.

The traditional staple food of Tibet is tsampa, a flour made of roasted highland barley and Tibetans eat it three times a day. Tibetans consume copious amounts of tea, both salted butter tea, and sweet milk tea, they also eat a lot of yak-related meat and dairy products. Yak meat is quite lean, mild, and beef-like and not as weird as it may sound. It’s a common misconception that Tibetans are vegetarians, but yak, beef, mutton, and goat are all consumed. Fish, though, are not popular or common.  

Pilgrims at the Jokang Temple, Lhasa.
Sarah Kingdom

Tibet has so much to see and do, from stunning mountain landscapes to fascinating religion, culture, and customs. You could find yourself in a prayer hall full of chanting monks, experiencing an unforgettable mountain trek, or perhaps making the epic Tibet – Nepal overland journey, along some of the world’s wildest roads. The experiences are limitless.

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Everything You Need To Know Before Making The Trek To Everest Base Camp https://www.travelawaits.com/2690104/things-to-know-before-the-trek-to-everest-base-camp/ Tue, 31 Aug 2021 15:12:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2690104 Mount Everest seen from below.

Mount Everest. Two words that conjure up dreams of adventure, excitement, and achievement. To actually reach the summit of Mount Everest, on the crest of the Great Himalayas of southern Asia, is a legendary feat that demands huge sacrifices. Everest Base Camp (EBC), at 18,300 feet, is no walk in the park, but it does offer an achievable goal for people with a good level of fitness and determination, and who want a glimpse of the world’s highest peak. The trek to EBC is among the most dramatic and picturesque in the Himalayas. The scenery is spectacular, the trails of a high standard, the accommodation a cultural experience, and interactions with the local Sherpa people will make this a truly memorable trip.

The route to Base Camp is often referred to as “the steps to heaven.” At every bend, the trail provides another incredible photo opportunity, with beautiful forests, dramatic rugged mountains, alpine lakes, glacial moraines, interesting Sherpa villages, and, depending on the season, valleys filled with the gorgeous pink blossomed rhododendrons. For active adventurers who are not afraid to break a sweat, the trek to Everest Base Camp opens a window to the top of the world.

I am going to address some of the frequently asked questions about trekking to Everest Base Camp and give you a few tips to help you really enjoy the journey.

How Long Does It Take? 

It takes between 11 and 14 days for an Everest Base Camp round trip. Most people will do it in 12 days: 8 days to hike from Lukla (where you fly from Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu) to Everest Base Camp and then 4 days to trek back to Lukla. You could shorten the journey by hiring a helicopter to fly you back from base camp, but this adds considerable expense to your trip, and as the return trek is all downhill, all the hard work is done and you can really appreciate the scenery.

Trekkers and Mount Everest.
White Magic Adventure Travel

How Far Will You Walk? 

The entire trek is an 80-mile round trip. This is the distance from Lukla to Everest Base Camp and back to Lukla.

Probably the more important question actually, is how much altitude will you be gaining? Lukla is at 9,383 feet above sea level and Everest Base Camp is 17,600 feet. That’s a pretty substantial increase in elevation. The closer you get to Everest Base Camp, the more challenging the trek becomes. Once you get up beyond 14,000 feet, you are breathing only 50 percent of the oxygen at sea level, so walking on flat ground starts to feel surprisingly difficult and even small hills start to feel more like mountains!

When Is The Best Time To Go? 

There are two main seasons to trek to EBC: in the fall (October/November) and in spring (April/May).

The climbing season for those attempting to summit Mt. Everest is April/May, but the better season for the trek is during fall since this is when skies are clearest and the scenery magnificent.

Should You Book A Guide, A Trekking Company, Or Do It Alone?

While it is not compulsory to have a guide to trek to Everest Base Camp, and the trail itself is well marked, I believe a local guide will enrich your experience, even if you’re an experienced trekker.

Hiring a guide will cost you around $30 a day. When hiring a local guide, you are providing much-needed employment and also giving yourself the opportunity to learn about the local culture. Many people also hire a porter for about $20 a day. Your porter will carry the bulk of your luggage, leaving you with just a day pack (and a much easier journey).

Alternatively, using a trekking company has the advantage of having everything pre-arranged for you, including flights, accommodation, transfers, meals, guides, porters, insurance, etc. Another advantage of booking with a trekking company is that the guide will have been trained to spot signs of altitude sickness and will be carrying oxygen. I’d recommend White Magic Adventure Travel.

How Fit Do You Need To Be? 

Most days, you will be hiking between 5 and 8 miles, a very doable distance. There are no “technical” sections on the hike, this is just a graded hiking trail. No rock scrambling, no rock climbing, no special skills needed. But bear in mind, it’s not the distance of the daily hikes that makes the trek a challenge, it’s the elevation. Having a good level of fitness will make the whole trip much easier and much more enjoyable. As a rule of thumb, I’d suggest you should be able to easily walk 10 miles a day, several days in a row while wearing a backpack.

Trekkers who reached Mount Everest Base Camp.
White Magic Adventure Travel

How Do You Stay Healthy?

My biggest piece of advice here is to go vegetarian. If you see meat on a menu during your trek, be aware that all meat is carried up by porters from below Lukla, due to the no-killing policy in Sagarmatha National Park. That means by the time you’re eating it, it’s old and probably not that fresh! Another food-related tip is to avoid the yak cheese, it doesn’t seem to sit well in most western tummies! Do bring along some snacks though, because the food can get monotonous!

Secondly, take your time. “Slow and steady” is the key. Altitude sickness can affect anybody, even the super fit. Watch out for signs of altitude sickness, like pounding headaches, dizziness, sleeplessness, loss of appetite, and breathlessness. I’d recommend that before your trip, you get the prescription medication such as Diamox, which helps prevent altitude sickness, but if symptoms persist, turn around and descend.

Stay alert. The trail is relatively wide and well marked but can be treacherous in places. Listen for the bells of oncoming animals, and stand on the inner side of the trail as they pass, so you can’t be knocked off! Also stand aside for porters, who often run along the trails; this is a sign of respect, but also helps prevent traffic jams.

Finally, drink bottled/treated water and forgo alcohol, it dehydrates you, making you more susceptible to altitude sickness. Bathroom facilities can be pretty dire, so some hand sanitizer can be worth its weight in gold. Lastly, cover up — the sun is harsh at high altitudes. Use a good sunscreen and wear a hat, long-sleeve shirts, and pants.

What About Altitude Sickness? 

You may already know to expect shortness of breath and fatigue when trekking at high altitudes. It may still come as a surprise though to discover just how draining hiking at elevation can be. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself out of breath just rolling over in your sleeping bag some nights!

Altitude sickness can start to occur at elevations over 7,900 feet; though most people need to be at much higher altitudes before they really start feeling symptoms. Symptoms of altitude sickness include shortness of breath, headache, nausea, vomiting, and dizziness. Altitude sickness can be a life-threatening condition that, in severe cases, can lead to cerebral edema, pulmonary edema, and even death. The best treatment for altitude sickness is to descend immediately to a lower altitude.

I am not trying to alarm you or scare you off. While you can expect to feel at least some effects of altitude, the eight-day trek to Everest Base Camp is designed to give you enough time to acclimatize.

Landing at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla.
Landing at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla (Photo Credit: White Magic Adventure Travel)

What Is It Like To Fly To Lukla?

The Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla is found on the list of “The world’s most dangerous airports.” The geography of the airport’s location, combined with often adverse weather conditions and a very short runway, make flying in and out of Lukla a nerve-wracking experience. So come mentally prepared.

How Much Time Do You Need In Nepal?

If the only thing you want to do in Nepal is to trek to Everest Base Camp, you need the number of days for the trek and two days in Kathmandu on either side of the trek, to get over any jet lag and explore the city. So if you plan to do a 12-day trek, then you will need a minimum of 16 days in Nepal.

Bonus Tips

  • Accommodations are in basic trekking lodges, known as teahouses, run by Sherpa families. Each lodge has a central communal area with a large stove to provide heat. Bedrooms are unheated and generally have two beds, with mattresses, pillows, and a blanket. You should bring a sleeping bag and I’d recommend a pillowcase. Access to electricity points for charging devices costs extra. Wi-Fi is available in some locations, but connections are generally poor.
  • EBC trek is a very popular route and you will encounter many other trekkers and groups on the trail and at the teahouses and at times it can feel crowded.
  • If you are travelling with a United States passport you will require a visa for Nepal, this can be purchased on arrival.

Aside from breathtaking scenery, the trek to Everest Base Camp gives travelers the chance to experience local culture and hospitality. You will have the opportunity to visit Buddhist monasteries and shrines (stupas), you will traverse metal bridges strung over deep canyons, you will pass strings of colorful prayer flags, and in the evening, you will enjoy hot Nepali food and delicious chai (tea) around the teahouse fire. To crown it all, you will feel the incredible personal sense of achievement of having trekked one of the world’s most unforgettable hikes.

 

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Retiring In Vietnam: 8 Things To Know About Healthcare https://www.travelawaits.com/2684805/retiring-in-vietnam-healthcare/ Fri, 30 Jul 2021 17:09:00 +0000 https://www.travelawaits.com/?p=2684805 Hoi An, Vietnam

If you’re thinking of relocating to Vietnam, you’re not alone. The country is hugely popular with travelers, and for good reason. The cost of living is low, the expat community is strong, and new residents can choose from vibrant cities, pretty seaside towns, and quiet countryside communities.

Those who relocate will undoubtedly be attracted by Vietnam’s fast-growing economy (in the second quarter of 2021 alone, it rose by 6.6 percent). And when it comes to healthcare, Vietnam has a lot to brag about. For instance, according to the World Health Organization, over 97 percent of Vietnamese children are immunized, one of the highest rates in the world. Additionally, life expectancy rates are steadily improving and the country’s healthcare system is making great strides. However, there is still significant room for improvement. If you’re planning to relocate, you’ll want to keep the following points in mind.

Vietnam Is Moving Towards Universal Healthcare

Vietnam is moving towards a system of universal healthcare. Under the country’s Master Plan for Universal Coverage, Vietnam’s moving steadily towards having 100 percent of the population covered by health insurance. In 2019, nearly 88 percent of the population was covered. Additionally, under this plan, out-of-pocket patient costs will eventually be slashed in half. Supporting all these developments is an ambitious project to modernize electronic health records.

There’s Plenty Of Room For Improvement

But despite this progress, Vietnam’s healthcare system still struggles by many measures. At present, it ranks 160th out of 191 countries on the World Health Organization’s list of the most efficient healthcare systems. The Lancet is more optimistic, awarding Vietnam’s healthcare system 60 points out of 100.

Public hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Public hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam: April 2014 (Photo Credit: xuanhuongho / Shutterstock.com)

Standards Vary At Public Facilities 

Expats and visitors in Vietnam can use public facilities like hospitals and clinics. However, since they’re not covered by the national health insurance program, they have to pay upfront for their visits. 

It’s hard to say what to expect at a public healthcare facility because so much depends on location. In major cities like Hanoi, public hospitals are usually modern and maintain acceptable standards of care. However, in rural areas, clinics struggle to receive adequate funding. As such, only the most basic of care is available. 

Public facilities – both urban and rural – struggle with cramped conditions and a lack of up-to-date diagnostic equipment. Sometimes an influx of patients means that hospitals and clinics are crowded to a dangerous level. At its worst level, admitted patients may be forced to share hospital beds. Tragically, in 2014, an outbreak of measles that killed more than 120 children was linked to bed-sharing in a crowded pediatric ward. 

In general, those using public facilities should anticipate long waits, a total lack of privacy and comfortable amenities, and possible communication problems unless they’re fluent in Vietnamese.

The private American International Hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
The private American International Hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam: November 2020 (Photo Credit: huntergol hp / Shutterstock.com)

With the exception of those circumstances in which public facilities are the only available option, most expats and travelers in Vietnam opt for care in private facilities. While they’re often too costly for local residents, most expats find that private services are quite affordable compared to prices in other countries. In general, private patients can expect to see clean, comfortable facilities, a reasonable standard of privacy (though private rooms aren’t always available), multilingual staff, and modern diagnostic equipment. 

However, it’s important to realize that “private care” means different things in different countries. In many countries, private hospitals offer luxurious patient rooms, a huge roster of specialists and technicians, and state-of-the-art care. For the most part, this won’t be your experience in Vietnam. However, you can be confident that your wait times will be shorter, your communication experience will be less frustrating, and your surroundings will be more comfortable than they would be in a public setting. 

Two Hmong Hilltribe women with traditional fabric dress carry basket near terraced paddy rice fields and walk on the footpath road to their mountain village in Sapa, Vietnam.
Photo Credit: Blanscape / Shutterstock.com

The Rural-Urban Divide Is Problematic

Like many countries, there is a serious division in the standards of care between rural Vietnam and urban Vietnam. Rural healthcare facilities are limited and, where they do exist, they’re very basic, as this article demonstrates. As such, patients who can manage to visit cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City do so in order to take advantage of the superior care at the urban hospitals. However, these hospitals were built to serve a local population and, with the rural influx, they easily exceed their capacity. Urban hospitals then lobby for more resources and funding, which leaves the rural centers receiving less. It’s a frustrating cycle for everyone involved.

Pharmacies Both Help And Hinder

Many pharmacists in Vietnam speak English or French (especially in cities) and can be a valuable resource when treating minor maladies. If you’re bothered by something relatively simple, like a cold or bug bites, you can usually bypass going to a medical clinic and instead ask the pharmacist for a recommendation. However, it’s worth noting that prescription medication in Vietnam could well be expired or even counterfeit. Inspect packaging seals and dates carefully and ask your prescribing doctor or consulate for a recommendation to a reliable pharmacy. 

Female travelers will be happy to hear that large pharmacies, especially those in cities, are usually well-stocked with products like menstruation supplies and birth control. This article has some helpful information from female expats about health-related topics, from finding condoms (best to pay extra for international brands) to visiting the gynecologist (happily, an efficient and comfortable experience).

Costs Are Low

Vietnam’s healthcare costs are considerably lower than most other countries. In public facilities, it can cost as little as a few dollars to see a doctor. (And for local residents, the government subsidizes 80 percent of hospital fees for those below the poverty line. Working-class farmers and fishers also qualify for a 30 percent subsidy.)

Even private facilities are affordable, with many visits for minor maladies ringing in at less than $100. However, whether you’re going private or public, you can expect to pay upfront for your care. You’ll be given receipts and paperwork to submit to your insurance company for reimbursement. As you can imagine, this can be a chaotic experience if you’re in the middle of a medical emergency! One way to help prepare for such an eventuality is to chat with some new expat friends once you get settled in. Ask them about their experiences in going to the doctor for both emergency and non-emergency care. Inquire about what it was like for them and if there is anything they wish they knew in advance about how the local hospital operates, especially when it comes to payments. 

There’s A Secret Payment System You Should Know About

You might be wondering how doctors and nurses manage to get by when hospital fees are so low. The answer is “appreciation envelopes”. Appreciation envelopes are a long-standing practice in Vietnam to provide cash gifts to doctors and nurses to demonstrate appreciation for their services. The amounts (anywhere from $5 to $25) sound small, but they’re significant expenses for many Vietnamese residents. While the practice of giving appreciation envelopes is essentially voluntary, the donations are basically bribes to expedite care, to receive quicker referrals to specialists, and so forth. As such, there have been campaigns to stop the envelope system but until the overall healthcare system improves, the need to grease palms will continue.

As an expat or traveler making occasional medical visits, you won’t be expected to know about the appreciation envelopes. At least, not at first. But long term residents who make multiple visits (especially in public facilities) might feel a subtle pressure to contribute. This is another good question to pose to your local expat circle of friends. What is the culture at the local clinic or hospital and when are you expected to give? The more you know in advance, the more comfortable you will feel about navigating this tricky practice.

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