The Carmel Market (or Shook HaCarmel, in Hebrew) is both the backbone and the belly of Tel Aviv. It stretches south from busy Allenby Street for about a mile and a half, with narrow alleyways lined on both sides and stalls selling everything from rare spices to vibrant produce to fake Adidas. The vendors are famous for hawking their ways in a loud, intimate, but rather charming fashion. Carmel Market is where chefs and budgeting homemakers shop.

It’s not surprising that this iconic market is a theme of countless walking tours in Tel Aviv. I’ve been on a few myself and highly recommend taking one. (I recommend Delicious Tours for a real, in-depth tour of the market.)

Insider Tip: Among the great local treats to pick up at Carmel Market are halva, medjool dates, olive oil, and spices.

On my last trip to Tel Aviv, however, I went on a tour near the market, but not about it. Instead, the themed guided walk I took part in was called the Disappearing Professions Tour. Focusing on small business shops nearby, we explored the shoe repair store with the old cobbler sitting on a worn chair waiting for customers, the dusty store of a window glazier, and the shop with the rotting old sign signaling the bookbinder.

You might wonder why I signed up for a walking tour that stops at such prosaic places. Would you believe me if I said I thought it was one of the best ways to get to know the city and its history?

1. Another Side Of Tel Aviv

The Disappearing Professions Tour was created by Meital Katz, a former fashion designer, who got the idea after noticing how many of the businesses in her own field were disappearing. “The fabric sellers, the button designer, the whole chain,” she says. 

The clincher was when she walked over to a shoe repair shop in the neighborhood. “The owner was more than 80,” Katz continued. “Once upon a time, these kinds of shops were fixtures of the city. There would be lines outside and many shops like his. But today, he was just sitting outside the shop and had no work. ‘Today, you don’t fix it, you buy new,’ he told me. When you come to a country, you want to experience the culture in a different way; not just museums. I think my tour tells the story of the culture of Israel and the people that made the country, and how we’ve lived here. For many, it’s a journey back to old memories, too.”

Connecting The Past To The Present

“It’s an opportunity, perhaps the last to see their world,” National Geographic wrote about the tour. For me, the tour combined history with a truly authentic experience: Nothing makes me more fulfilled than feeling like a local when I’m traveling. This was the ultimate foray into day-to-day life.

Insider Tip: Tours can be three, four, or four and half hours and private or groups of up to twenty. They can be walking or minibus tours. They are given in English or Hebrew and cost varies but is about 75 dollars. 

2. One Of Tel Aviv’s First Neighborhoods

Along with the Carmel Market neighborhood, Katz takes visitors to the gentrifying neighborhood of Florentin in South Tel Aviv. Named after a Jewish immigrant from Salonika, Florentin was long home to fellow Greek immigrants who worked in exactly these kinds of shops. These artisans, craftsmen, and repair people were once the fabric of the city. 

Over the past 15 years, the cash-strapped creative class, many of them art students, have moved in. Hip bars and cafés now exist alongside the remaining ones. Stops on the tour can include the shops of Avi the iron forger, Zimber the bookbinder, or Shai the furniture restorer. 

A popular stop on the tour is the Gluska tile factory, where hand-painted floor tiles known eponymously as Gluska tiles are manufactured. These tiles are as famous to Tel Aviv’s domestic design as a white picket fence is to suburban America. Some spots are really unique on this tour.

3. An Easily Walkable Mishmash Of Neighborhoods

It’s an easy tour to take part in. Tel Aviv is a compact and walkable city with few steep spots, making multiple neighborhood forays easy physically. That said, its layout is a bit of a mishmash, the result of a city built in a hurry. A guide is almost essential for first-time visitors.

Insider Tip: In Florentin, each neighborhood street has a specialty. Herzl Street is where you can see carpenters’ handmade furniture that draws people from all over the city for quality and cheaper prices. Wolfson Street is known for chandeliers, Matalon Street for household goods, and Kfar Giladi Street for artisan costume jewelry, if you are looking for more luggage-friendly souvenirs.

4. Finding The Last Artisans In Tel Aviv

By taking us to the different artisans and their varied styles of ornamentation, we also saw how Tel Aviv is made up of people from all corners of the Earth. From the Ottoman era to Oriental style to the ‘30s European Modernists, these were the craftspeople and artisans who shaped the city. It wasn’t surprising to learn that one of Tel Aviv’s prominent architectural styles is known as Eclecticism.

Katz can take a tour group to the one person in the country who repairs old bells. Katz finds these artisans in multiple ways: Good old footwork, her own internet research, and as her tour becomes more well known, people reach out to her, either the artisans themselves or more often people who know or know of them. Recently, she learned about a man who is the last to make a certain kind of guitar, for example. She now has about 100 artisans and craftspeople on her list. Of course, the idea is not to gawk at them or treat them as relics, but to hear their stories and their histories.

5. A Growing Phenomenon

Such artisan tours are a budding trend. I’ve heard of them in Paris and Tuscany. And their appeal is reaching beyond the demographic with direct memories of these types of businesses. As the retail focus reverts back to well-crafted, artisan goods, and as we aim to become conscious consumers, the work of craftspeople and dying crafts is being pushed to the forefront.

Katz’s tour operates under the umbrella of BE Tel Aviv Tours, a company that was started by Israeli-American Eviatar Gover, specializing in other great tours, including popular graffiti tours of Tel Aviv or vegan tours of the city. 

Insider Tip: Tel Aviv is one of the vegan capitals of the world. Nearly one in 10 Tel Avivians is vegan with 400 vegan and vegan-friendly restaurants. Some of the best in and around Florentin include Aja and Meshek Barzilay.

I asked Katz about the vendors during her disappearing professions tour. They are old and won’t live forever. Besides sparking nostalgia, did her tour also ignite a resurgence of actual artisans and craftsmen? Did it spur some of the children or grandchildren of the few remaining artisans to keep the family business alive? Or other younger people to learn a trade?

She says that even if they don’t make their careers in these kinds of jobs, many young people are taking them up as a hobby. As trends for sustainability and owning fewer things that are better made and have a sense of purpose continue to grow, perhaps this won’t just be a tour walking backward in time for long.

Where To Stay In Tel Aviv

Jaffa

The ancient port city conjoined with Tel Aviv is one of narrow alleyways, millennia-old buildings, and small galleries and shops. Stay at the well-located Casa Nova Hotel right near St. Peters with grand views of the Mediterranean.

Near The Carmel Market

The Fabric Hotel is a great boutique hotel in a converted fabric-manufacturing facility near shops and restaurants.

Neve Tzedek 

Tel Aviv’s first neighborhood after Jaffa has been revamped into a boho-chic haven of beautiful boutiques and charming restaurants. It borders Florentin. Stay at The Vera, which boasts charming locally furnished rooms and the best breakfast in town.

Related Reading:

• 11 Delicious Foods To Try In Tel Aviv And Where To Find Them
• My 4 Favorite Experiences Visiting Beautiful Tel Aviv
• 9 Things To Know Before Visiting Captivating Tel Aviv

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is one of the world’s seven wonders and has played an integral part in the world’s most significant religions. Like an open-air museum, its pivotal role in world history spans thousands of years. One of the most impactful experiences is meeting the Jordanian people, who are proud of their heritage and want to share it with visitors. Here are eight of my favorite experiences.

I was part of a small group of writers hosted by the Jordan Tourism Board, but all opinions are my own.

1. Umm Qais

Experiencing Local Life With Baraka Destinations

Umm Qais is a village in the northwestern corner of Jordan; it was known as Gadara when it was part of the Roman Empire. It’s famous for its impressive colonnaded streets, vaulted terraces, and ancient theaters. We shared in the lives of residents on three separate tours while in the village.

Ahmad Alomari was our local guide who regaled us with the history and fascinating details of where he grew up and went to school. Before it became a protected archeological site, he used to play among the ruins as a child.

Local beekeeper Yousef Sarah suited us in full gear as he opened the hives and introduced us to the art of sustainable beekeeping. He creates and sells many products from the bees, including ointments, soaps, lotions, and organic, natural honey.

Galsoum Al-Sayyah welcomed us to her home for a sumptuous lunch. Sitting on low-cushioned seating around a center table, Galsoum tempted us with a delectable array of Middle Eastern traditional cuisine. She first started a small business in her home by baking local bread and selling it to visitors. Next came catering to the locals and preparing home-cooked feasts for guests like us. Her hard work has turned Galsoum’s Kitchen into a successful enterprise that helps support her family.

2. Jerash 

Tasting Traditional Foods At Beit Khairat Souf

Jerash was once a thriving Roman city and is one of the world’s most revered and impressive Roman ruins outside of Italy.

The highlight of our day in Jerash was visiting Beit Khairat Souf, a restaurant and community hub nearby. It’s a perfect lunch stop to experience the tastes and traditions of Jordanian culture. 

This tranquil kitchen and garden serve fresh meals with local produce and provide training and jobs for women and girls to financially support themselves through opportunities for economic development in the heart of Souf.

Our table under the shade-covered patio was laden with shared dishes. Mansaf, the traditional Jordanian lamb dish, was the star, and tasty traditional side dishes like baba ghanoush, grape leaves swimming in yogurt, and pita bread accompanied it. Haifa Bani-Mustafa — the program’s founder — joined us, describing the mission to empower women. We couldn’t leave without purchasing handmade creations and food items in the fully stocked shop.

3. Amman 

Appreciating Street Art During An Underground Amman Tour 

Amman is where tradition and modernity meet in the Old City. Jordan’s capital and largest city is a mix of old and modern, spanning several empires. Often called the “White City,” it has been inhabited since Neolithic times.

Through Local Eyes is a tour experience to show people there’s more beyond Amman’s recognized tourist sites. It opened a window into Amman’s often hidden or “underground” artistic expression, providing a new perspective of this ancient city.

Walking through the Jabal al-Weibdeh District, the walls were covered in colorful murals and graffiti. “This is the destination for artists and poets,” founder Anas Amarneh said as he led us down the neighborhood’s hilly streets. Enlightened, we began to understand what forces have shaped this fascinating city and how the young people of Amman will contribute to its future.

4. Feynan Ecolodge

Baking Bread Like A Bedouin In Wadi Feynan 

We had the rare opportunity to experience authentic Bedouin hospitality while learning to bake bread at Feynan Ecolodge.

A self-sustaining lodge built at the mountain’s base along the caravan route from Amman to Mecca, Feynman Ecolodge offers several interactive experiences presenting guests with a unique insight into the lives of one of the remaining Bedouin communities in Jordan.

At the end of a rugged track, we were led to the local community and invited to sit on carpets and cushions in a goat-hair tent. We faced our host, Hussein, who sat cross-legged before us with a bowl of wheat flour and a bottle of water. He showed us the Bedouin way to bake bread in the coals of an open fire. Kneading the sticky mixture until the dough held together, he then formed it into a ball and, after resting a bit, flattened it into a disk. At a small wood fire near the tent opening, Hussein raked the hot embers over to the side, placed the dough on the coals, and covered it with hot ashes to bake.

With the aroma of baking bread wafting through the tent, we were offered hot tea — a Bedouin custom of hospitality. Hussein, with the assistance of a translator, shared the traditions, seasonal tasks, and daily lives of the tribe members in today’s world.

When the bread was ready, we all got a taste. I juggled the hot morsels between my fingers, dipping each delicious bite in savory olive oil. This memory will stay with me for a long time.

Pro Tip: Reach out to Feynan Ecolodge for various activities, including hiking, mountain biking, and local community experiences such as bread-making and cooking classes. 

5. Petra By Night 

The ancient city of Petra is otherworldly at night. Few sites can rival the Nabataean city of Petra carved out of rose-red rock cliffs. 

The Petra By Night show starts with a magical walk from the Siq to the Treasury. More than 2,000 candles illuminate the narrow slot canyon. My first glimpse of the Treasury under the stars took my breath away. 

The anticipation grew with colorful light displays dancing across crevices and rock formations and washing over the Treasury. A B’doul elder told the story of Petra while a Bedouin flutist mesmerized the crowd with melodic strains that seemed full of woe and joy. After the show, I slowly returned through the canyon, the stars twinkling in the night sky, not wanting the evening to end.

Pro Tip: Petra By Night is offered on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Good walking shoes are essential; prepare for rough ground, uneven stones, and slippery surfaces.

6. Wadi Rum 

Bedouin Desert Adventure And Jeep Safari 

Wadi Rum, also known as the Valley of the Moon, is on the western edge of the Arabian Desert. The rippled sand dunes have been inhabited since Prehistoric times. Vast, echoing, and “God-Like” is how Lawrence of Arabia once described Wadi Rum. We stayed in the Sharah Luxury Camp, which arranged our excursions in the desert.

Our Bedouin desert adventure began with a jeep safari to explore valleys and narrow gorges and discover ancient rock inscriptions, stopping often to scramble up the dunes. We ended the evening sitting on the sand, watching a magnificent Jordanian sunset unfold.

Camel Trekking

Often called “Ships of the Desert,” camels have transported people and goods in Wadi Rum for hundreds of years. Mounting our camels before sunrise and following our guide, we set off into the silent desert surroundings, while the peaking Sun slowly illuminated the surrounding peaks. We dismounted while our Bedouin hosts built a fire for tea and graciously shared an ages-old desert experience. At the same time, we marveled at a spectacular desert sunrise. 

Pro Tip: The visitor center provides the main gateway to the protected Wadi Rum area. It has all the facilities, information, and services visitors need, including restaurants and craft shops. All vehicle tours operate out of the center and you can make camel trek arrangements here.

7. The Dead Sea

One cannot leave Jordan without floating in the Dead Sea, the lowest spot on Earth. The salty water is so dense that you’ll stay afloat with ease. Unable to keep my feet under me, I surrendered, relaxed, and enjoyed the experience. After a dip, I slathered on the oozy dark mud from head to toe and let it dry. Then, I reentered the Dead Sea to wash it off. The mineral-rich waters and mud are said to have healing properties, but sadly, I don’t look any younger after my efforts. 

Pro Tip: You can have a mud bath and floating experiences at countless resorts and spas along this legendary waterfront. Don’t shave your legs within 24 hours before you enter the Dead Sea; the water might sting a bit.

8. Wadi Mujib

Canyoneering 

Canyoneering in Wadi Mujib was my favorite activity of the entire trip. The canyon towers above the Mujib River and flows into the Dead Sea. The world’s lowest nature reserve is dubbed the “Grand Canyon of Jordan.”

Visitors trek through the water, wading through the canyon toward a beautiful waterfall. We donned life vests, scrambled over rocks, and laughed out loud with delight, experiencing nature in Jordan in such an extraordinary way.

Pro Tip: Wadi Mujib is located about an hour’s drive southeast of Amman. Limited numbers can enter at a time, so go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid a long wait.

Jordan is a must-see destination with a long and rich history. The ancient architecture, antiquity sites, desert adventures, delicious Jordanian cooking, and the Dead Sea are just a few reasons to visit. Meeting the locals and sharing unique experiences made extraordinary Jordan come alive.

Related Reading:

• The 2022 Bucket List Trip This Flight Attendant Finally Checked Off Her List
• 7 Things I Wish I Knew Before Visiting Jordan
• 7 Reasons To Fall In Love With Spectacular Wadi Rum

I have always loved Turkish food. Fortunately, I live in New York City where Turkish restaurants are plentiful and I have traveled to other cities, like Berlin, where Turkish street food is a late-night staple. But, when invited by Go Türkiye to the country formerly known as Turkey, I was excited to satisfy my Turkish food cravings with the real deal in situ.

My 7-day visit was spent entirely in Istanbul, perfect for a multicultural immersion into Turkish food. With its vast Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman heritage, the city once called Constantinople is a mélange of street treats, Michelin-star recipients and hopefuls, and homestyle dining. Beyond the magic of its mosques, monuments, and hammams, Istanbul is the only city that spans two continents, Europe and Asia, separated by the thin Bosphorus Strait. And, while a modern city in current parlance, Istanbul evidences its 2,500-year history throughout.

The intrepid foodie traveler in me took to this city of contrasts like a bee to lokum, and happily, my thousands of steps balanced out the thousands of calories I ingested on this delicious eating trip.

Here are some of the best foods I ate in Istanbul and where to find them:

1. Lokum 

The delicious candy known as “Turkish Delight” comes in a variety of flavors and consistencies. Jellylike and soft, made with nuts, fruit, and nougat, lokum appears in tempting displays. Merchants will give you a sample if you aren’t sure whether pistachio or fruit is better, and you can ask to have a box vacuum-sealed to take home. You’ll also find mountains of lokum at specialist HazerBaba in both the Spice Bazaar and on Istiklal. For an alternative, try their halva. It’s creamy, soft, and completely different from the dry version you might have had at home.

2. Dondurma

If you’re a fan of TikTok, you might have seen the teasing theatrical presentation of elastic Turkish ice cream that combines entertainment with deliciousness. Dondurma’s consistency is different from customary ice cream or gelato; you can pull it out almost like eating a piece of taffy. On Istiklal Caddesi, the vendors have fun with customers, proffering ice cream in cones and quickly pulling them away, multiple times, in a sort of ice cream dance you’ll want to capture on video. If you’re on the Asian side of the city on Bağdat Avenue, Mado offers a café setting where you can sample the Turkish dessert made chewy with ground-up orchid tubers.

3. Fresh Juices And Drinks

Enticing displays of oranges and pomegranates pop up not just on Istiklal Street but also among the cobblestones of Balat and elsewhere, where a refreshing juice break takes the place of a Coke or maybe even Turkish coffee or tea. More unusual, pickles are an important part of Turkish cuisine, and so is pickle juice. But unlike the alcohol-laced pickleback you might know, made with pickle juice and whiskey, this drink is a pinkish mix of pickle juice and pickled vegetables with a salty, sour overtone. During colder months, sahlep is a popular warm libation of orchid root, milk, sugar, and cinnamon. Think of it as an eggnog you might enjoy at Christmas. It’s available at dedicated stands and at Mado cafés throughout the city.

4. Tea, Coffee, And Sweets 

If cold beverages aren’t your thing, Turkish tea (çay) and coffee are cultural mainstays in Istanbul. Çay is served in small tulip-shaped cups, made with black tea from the northern region of the country. A Turkish coffee experience in Istanbul is just that — an experience. You’ll want to select a traditional “coffee bar” where you can observe the coffee-making process in brass pots, deciding whether you’d like it sweet, medium, or strong. Coffee is served black in a small ceramic cup with a layer of grounds on the bottom. Modern versions of these coffee shops, more akin to Starbucks or Paul, have coffee machines that brew an equally satisfying version of the beans in much less time. 

If you’re in love with the coffee, you can buy a bag of grinds for home preparation from the Spice Bazaar. For the perfect accompaniment, Turkish baklava with pistachios or honey is de rigueur at Gulluoglu Baklavacisi. Suit up with a hair net, gown, and slippers to watch the preparation of the multi-layer pastry, and then visit their family-run café to indulge and buy some to take home if it’s at the end of your trip. (The shelf life is limited and baklava is better eaten when fresh.)

Fun Fact: Did you know that tulips were originally cultivated in Turkey and then exported to the Netherlands? Think about that as you sip tea from your adorable glass.

5. Breakfast 

I don’t usually eat a huge breakfast when I’m home, but in Istanbul, the kahvalti meal is one that you don’t want to miss. You have choices from an expansive buffet, as served at many hotels like the Marmara Pera where I stayed, to the fast-food type which might include pastries or bagel-like creations that may fit better with your style of eating. 

If you opt for the breakfast spread, you’ll enjoy many of my favorite Turkish treats — from cheeses, olives, breads, and fruit to yogurt, tahini, halva, simits (more on that later), and black tea. A truly special experience, the art gallery/restaurant Perispri in the hip Balat quarter features a home-cooked buffet of small breakfast plates from ceramicist-restaurateur Cahide Erel.

When I didn’t feel like stuffing my face early in the day, I stopped for a tea and simit, the Turkish equivalent of a bagel-pretzel. Flatter and covered with sesame seeds, the simit can be filled with cucumbers, meat, cheese, and other items, making it the perfect hands-on breakfast sandwich. Simit stands are ubiquitous in Istanbul or you can choose a dedicated simit shop like Tarihi Galata Simitçisi and watch as they’re individually baked.

Pro Tip: If you enjoy the artwork at Perispri, you can purchase a piece to have shipped home. Unfortunately, the beautiful antiques in the dining area are not for sale.

6. Seafood 

With Istanbul’s proximity to the Mediterranean, Aegean, and Black Seas, wonderful seafood is a given in this bustling city. Along the side streets near Istiklal, you’ll find curious stands selling mussels (midye dolma) stuffed with seasoned rice and served in their shells. It sounds odd to eat mussels while standing up but it was a delicious treat. At the Michelin Bib Gourmand Alaf, Anatolian-style grilled fish was a highlight, adorned with onions and cilantro. The fish was presented in gastro-gourmet fashion on newspaper rather than on plates and paired with high-end Turkish wines like Junus, a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, and merlot from the Aegean. 

If you opt for a cruise on the Bosphorus from Galataport — and you should — there are restaurants nearby that specialize in local seafood like anchovies, sea bass, and red mullet. At the waterfront Ringa Balik in the wealthy Oligark neighborhood, a display greets you to show you the catch of the day. Served along with meze, fish was a healthy choice, particularly after filling up on lokum and baklava.

7. Meze

While on the topic, meze is a way of life in Turkish restaurants. At the variety of sit-down restaurants that I enjoyed, an elaborate spread of small plates kicks off your meal. Made up of traditional Turkish dishes, your appetizers can include variations of Ankara pickles, hummus, aubergine, fava beans, calamari, vegetable salads, and yogurt. For truly chic dining, meze set a beautiful stage for the vast wine selection and the meats from the open grill at Michelin-starred Mürver in the Novotel Istanbul Bosphorus.

Pro Tip: At Çiya Sofrasi, leave room for lamb dumplings and the chef’s sinful pumpkin dessert. Striving to preserve Turkish culture through regional food, the restaurant has been the darling of the media for many years. You can find Chef Dağdeviren in Season 5, episode 2 of Chef’s Table.

8. Meat Snacks

I always search out beef döner when I travel and Istanbul gave me many ways to enjoy it. At Sütiş Kebap Dünyasi, a casual restaurant, and Nişantaşki Başköşe, a more formal eatery, I had thin slices of the rotisserie-cooked meat served to me, tender and flavorful to be eaten along with cacik — Turkey’s version of tzatziki or raita. An alternative to döner, cağ kebap at Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabi was my favorite street snack after visiting the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. The spit-roasted lamb skewers wrapped in lavash bread had the DIY option of adding onions and tomatoes, unlike the döner which is generally served plain. You can also top it with ezme — a traditional Turkish sauce made with tomatoes, peppers, and olive oil.

9. Pide

Pizza lovers, rejoice! Istanbul has something for you, too, and you may never look at pizza in the same light again. Served without tomato sauce on oval-shaped flatbread, Turkish pide is served at pideci — fast-food pizzeria-like restaurants — and even at the airport. Cheese and minced lamb and beef versions are offered spiced with chopped peppers, tomato, and onion.

10. Raki

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Turkey’s national alcoholic spirit, raki. Similar to Greek ouzo but more aromatic and less sugary, the aniseed-based liquor is mixed with chilled water and ice to your preference. Drunk at celebrations or even at a gathering for lunch at a meyhane (tavern) along with a meze spread. As I experienced at Agora Meyhanesi 1890, raki is quite strong. My suggestion is to begin gingerly with a 50/50 raki-water ratio. Find it at cafés throughout the city or, for a treat, visit the sultry Orient Bar in the Pera Palace Hotel — the glamorous 19th-century hostelry where Agatha Christie is said to have written Murder on the Orient Express.

My wonderful guide, Eser Sedef, told me to be sure to look down every turn and walk through every pasaj (passage) that one encounters. “You’ll be surprised at every turn,” she smiled. This was certainly the case on the extensive Istiklal Caddesi pedestrian avenue in the Beyoğlu area, which leads from the Galata Tower to Taksim Square — Istanbul’s version of Shibuya. Along the road are narrow side streets and passages that revealed treasures both culinary and cultural. Combined with the many street-food options here, the restaurants that span two continents offered a non-stop invitation to explore and try new foods. 

Pro Tip: Be careful where you walk, though, as Beyoğlu’s “historic” red trams do travel along the street.

Related Reading:

• The Amazing Historic Hotel That Will Have You Book A Trip To Istanbul
• 13 Reasons To Fall In Love With Beautiful Istanbul, Turkey
• Exploring Istanbul’s Literary Landmarks: 6 Places To Visit

Israel is known for its fresh and flavorful food. Vibrant produce, aromatic spice-led dishes, and vegan fare make up the core of Israel’s culinary canon, but there’s something else the visitor should know about it: The country has an array of utterly delicious baked specialties. (It makes sense when you think of how many Jewish grandmothers there are in the country.)

Little baked goods are called mapas in Hebrew, and you’ll see countless small shops, kiosks, and bakeries — from modern ones to old-school and generational versions selling sweet treats and unusual bread. However, mapas and bread, either savory or sweet, really help tell the story of this country of immigrants from all four corners of the earth.

Here are nine of my favorite baked goods in Israel and the best places to try them. 

1. Boureka

Burekas Penso

The Levinsky Spice Market in southern Tel Aviv is something everyone, not just foodies, should visit because it tells so many stories of people coming to the country. Early 20th-century Greek immigrants, Holocaust survivors, Iranian Jews who immigrated from Tehran to sell Iranian saffron, and generations of family bakers are the kinds of vendors you see along this colorful market street.

In the middle of it all, at Levinsky 46, is Burekas Penso, specializing in bourekas, the flaky, hand-held savory pies filled with potatoes, spinach, salty cheese, and other stuffings that came to Israel by way of Turkish immigrants. The current owner, Yocahi Panso, is a fourth-generation boureka baker who makes them by hand with all the traditional fillings

Pro Tip: Try the traditional potato boureka; grab a table just outside and watch the market mayhem. Fridays are an especially great time to view as people shop before the beginning of the Sabbath. 

2. Jachnun

Jachnun Mul Hayam, Tel Aviv; Jachnun Bar, Jerusalem

Jachnun is a slightly sweet and very rich bread so buttery that it’s almost a pastry. It comes from Israel’s Yemenite Jewish community. The dish is one of many slow-cooked for Shabbat (Sabbath on Saturday mornings). Jachnun is typically prepared the day before and baked in the oven on low heat overnight for a hot dish to eat on the Sabbath day when lighting fires is prohibited. 

The dough is made of flour, white sugar, and water, rolled out thinly, coated liberally with margarine or butter, and then rolled back up. Typically, it’s served with roasted eggs; these are often cooked in the oven along with the bread.

Jachnun’s popularity has spread beyond the Yemenite community and you can now find it all over the country even at roadside stalls and in the grocer’s frozen food aisles. It’s also become a popular brunch staple at restaurants. 

In my opinion, the best (short of someone’s home cooking) can be found at Jachnun Mul Hayam in Tel Aviv and at Jachnun Bar in Jerusalem.

3. Challah

Berman Bakery, Jerusalem

Probably the best-known Jewish baked good, challah is the braided bread loaf, traditionally eaten by Jewish families on Friday nights (the evening of Shabbat). 

A good challah is just the right balance of doughy and fluffy, slightly sweet and golden brown on the outside. It’s often covered with sesame or poppy seeds but can also be plain. Most families can claim at least one great challah maestro among them.

Of course, it’s better to eat this bread hot out of the oven around a crowded table full of family and friends. And nothing beats homemade, but that isn’t a typically available experience for travelers. So it’s good to know you can get very authentic, homemade-tasting challah at the longtime Jerusalem eatery Berman Bakery. Their challah is also known as their signature house bread. You may come for the challah, but a warning: You’ll be tempted by the many other pastries and breads in the shop.

4. Knafeh

Uri Buri Restaurant, Acre; Yaffah Knafeh, Jaffa

Knafeh is a traditional Arab dessert, originating in Nablus. It’s made of a spun pastry called kataifi, which is soaked in a sweet honey-based syrup, mixed with a sweet cheese, and typically topped with chopped pistachio.

Makers of this refined and delicious dessert indulge in a healthy competition for the prize of the best. I’ve had several memorable ones, including at Uri Buri fish restaurant in Acre, the ancient port city in the north. The restaurant is owned by the legendary Uri Jeremiah and it’s a destination restaurant.

Uri Buri’s knafeh is next level but it comes at the end of a meal. When I want to eat knafeh on the go, I like Yaffah Knafeh in Old Jaffa, the conjoined city of Tel Aviv. Yaffah Knafeh is a small cave-like restaurant with a big following thanks to its fantastic knafeh.

5. Rugelach 

Marzipan Bakery At Machne Yehuda Market, Jerusalem

Rugelach is something like Jewish pain au chocolat — a small, rolled crescent filled with chocolate (or alternatively jam or cinnamon). It’s a great little treat to have with a cup of coffee in the afternoon.

You can get some of the country’s best at Marzipan Bakery in the colorful Machne Yehuda Market in Jerusalem. Little wonder that this merchant is one of the market’s most popular. The fantastic smell of hot-out-of-the-oven rugelach draws crowds.

I can rarely resist biting right into one of the warm, buttery, chocolatey, and gooey crescents made with quality ingredients. I always remember to bring wet wipes with me as my shirt is often a casualty.

6. Maamoul Cookies

Spice Market, Nazareth

The ancient Levantine Maamoul cookie has been an important part of religious holidays for Muslims, Christians, and Sephardic — mostly Moroccan — Jews. It ushers in Easter, Eid, and Purim.

Maamoul cookie dough is made with semolina flour and then pressed into special maamoul molds that are typically carved of wood. These molds can be found in predominantly Arab markets such as the bustling market in Nazareth. The mold’s patterns are often representative of the time of year the cookies are being made; for example, Jesus’s crown of thorns at Easter.

The dough is stuffed with dates or walnuts, rosewater or orange blossom water, and the cookies are eaten while they’re soft, crumbly, and buttery.

Pro Tip: Matkonation, a tour group and food blog started by two American expats, does wonderful food tours of the Nazareth market as well as great food photography workshops. 

7. Cheesecake, Poppy Seed Cake, And Orange Cake

The Drisco Hotel, Tel Aviv

One of the great culinary experiences in Israel is the hotel breakfast buffet. These spreads defy imagination and the limits of your morning appetite. Long buffet tables are heaving with fresh fruit, eggs, cheeses, yogurt, fish, dips, olives, salads, pastries, and more. However, most hotels in Israel adhere to kosher food law, so there won’t be any mixing of milk and meat, and no bacon or pork products at all.

These breakfasts are incredible once or twice, but after a while, they can be overwhelming. The Drisco Hotel — located in a very unique neighborhood of Tel Aviv called the American Colony — offers a more elegant and refined version of the breakfast spread.

Highlights are their extraordinary versions of well-known Jewish cakes such as cheesecake, poppy seed cake, and orange cake. (Delicious!) I like to try a little slice of each.

8. Haute Couture Pastries 

High Tea, Jaffa Hotel Jaffa

High tea isn’t a typical Israeli tradition, but it fits perfectly at the Jaffa Hotel, a stunning luxury hotel that was built on the site of a French hospice. It also incorporates an extraordinarily refurbished chapel. That is the setting of one of the most incredible high teas you’ll ever experience, short of Buckingham Palace. 

The tea’s pastries are brought to you by Alon Shabo, Tel Aviv star pastry chef, whose contemporary modernist concoctions are inspired by architecture and design. The beautiful treats are even more beautiful against the backdrop of the chapel’s marble floors, stunning sky-blue vaulted ceilings, and stained-glass windows.

Pro Tip: The hotel’s signature orange scent is an homage to the Jaffa orange, once the backbone of Israel’s export economy. It’s a beautiful fragrance available to purchase as an incense or liquid soap.

9. Kaak Bread 

Abouelafia Bakery, Jaffa

Not far from the Jaffa Hotel is Abouelafia Bakery, one of the most famous bakeries in the country. 

The bakery, owned by the Abouelafia family and dating back to 1879, cooks up rounds of pita sprinkled with zaatar and sesame seeds, baklava, and triangle sesame-puffed “kaak bread” filled with different kinds of cheese. The warm and welcoming staff invite you to try and taste different things. Basically, anything you buy here will be fantastic!

Related Reading:

• 11 Delicious Foods To Try In Tel Aviv And Where To Find Them
• My 4 Favorite Experiences Visiting Beautiful Tel Aviv
• 7 Reasons You Need To Put Israel On Your Travel Bucket List

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is composed of seven emirates, but when people talk of traveling there, the glistening, towering buildings, man-made islands, and the indulgent lifestyles of Dubai and Abu Dhabi tend to dominate the conversation.

Meanwhile, little is known about Ras al Khaimah. The fourth largest and northernmost of the emirates, Ras Al Khaimah, sometimes abbreviated to RAK, is a dream destination for all types of travelers. Blessed with gorgeous coastlines, beautiful beaches, desert plains, and breathtaking landscapes, RAK is a relatively off-the-grid but up-and-coming destination — and a more adventurous one than its more luxury-focused neighbors.

Ras Al Khaimah, which means “headland of the tent,” is positioned between the Arabian Gulf (also called the Persian Gulf) and the Hajar Mountains. Along with 27 miles of glittering coastline, there are dramatic hilltop forts, windswept deserts where Bedouin roam, date farms on the plains, and a coastal district home to fishermen, pearl drivers, and traders. From beach resorts to the heights of the Hajar Mountains, from cultural excursions in the desert to the world’s longest zip line, whether you’re searching for a sumptuous spa hotel for two or an all-inclusive value getaway for the entire family, RAK has something for everyone.

Dhayah Fort

Built in the 16th century, the castle-like structure of Dhayah Fort is made of mud-brick and is the last remaining hill fort in the UAE. Mostly destroyed by the British during the Battle of Ras Al Khaimah in 1809, it has now been restored and sits perched atop a 230-foot mound, a symbol of independence and a window into the old United Arab Emirates. There are 239 sweat-inducing steps to the top, but the breathtaking views of the surrounding date palm plantations, mountains, and the glistening waters of the Arabian Gulf make it worth the effort.

Ras Al Khaimah City

The Ras Al Khaimah City is the largest city, and capital, of the emirate of Ras al Khaimah. The city is divided by a creek into two parts: the old town in the west and Al Nakheel in the east. Picture a city surrounded by rugged mountains and sprawling deserts, laced with mangroves and lined with golden beaches. Venturing away from the beach resorts, there are several shopping malls to visit, an amusement park (best suited for young children), a water park, and a handful of museums, including the National Museum and the Pearl Museum.

The National Museum

The National Museum of Ras Al Khaimah is housed in a 19th-century fort that was home to the ruling family until the 1960s. Here you will find traditional jewelry and clothing, early Islamic weapons, historical documents and manuscripts, and displays of various archaeological finds, including Neolithic and Islamic-era artifacts excavated from local digs. A historical depiction of the British expedition against RAK in 1809 is on display in the Quwasim Room.

Beaches

Spread across 40 miles, Ras Al Khaimah’s coastline is dotted with golden beaches and lapped by the warm waters of the Arabian Gulf. Along the shoreline, you’ll find a number of resorts, most with exclusive access to private stretches of sand. If you want more than swimming and sunbathing, most resorts offer a variety of water sports including parasailing, banana and donut boating, stand-up paddleboarding, and even scuba diving and snorkeling.

We stayed at the Hilton Ras Al Khaimah Beach Resort, a five-star resort built within a private bay, with a mile-long stretch of sandy beach and six swimming pools. With rows of sun loungers lined by palm trees, there’s a range of bars and restaurants close by. If you’re not one for simply chilling out all day, there are also water sports such as sea kayaking available to try out, while kids will love learning how to snorkel in the clear waters and building castles in the white sand.

Pearls

Ras Al Khaimah has a pearl fishing history that dates back thousands of years, and one of the best ways to get an insight into this fascinating industry is to visit the Suwaidi Pearl Farm, located on a floating pontoon offshore of the region’s oldest pearl fishing village, Al Rams. During your visit, you’ll learn the process of pearl diving and have an opportunity to purchase some pearls for yourself, should the fancy take you. If you are fortunate, you’ll have a chance to meet founder Abdulla Al Suwaidi, who opened Suwaidi Pearl Farm in honor of his late grandfather Mohammed, “the last pearl diver” of RAK.

Located in the south of Ras Al Khaimah is Al Jazirah Al Hamra, the only remaining historical pearling village in the Gulf. The town dates from the 16^th century, making it one of the oldest and best-preserved coastal villages in the Emirates. The village was inhabited as recently as 1971 but is now completely abandoned. It was left untouched for years before undergoing restoration works and becoming a tourist attraction and film location for such movies as Brad Pitt’s War Machine and Ryan Reynolds’ 6 Underground. The crumbling (some say haunted) ruins include coral-block houses, fortifications, watchtowers, a school, souk, and a village mosque with a distinguished minaret.

Golf

There are two golf courses to visit in Ras Al Khaimah. The Al Hamra Golf Club curves around four interconnected open-water lagoons, and is regarded by many as the best 18 holes golf course in the emirate. 11 of the 18 holes at Tower Links Golf Club meander around the mangrove reserve, which provides a natural sanctuary for many aquatic and bird species — the course is considered the most natural golf course in the UAE and an unforgettable experience.

The Desert

For many, a trip to the UAE is not complete without a bit of “dune bashing,” an adrenaline-charged jeep safari through the rolling sand dunes, usually ending with a visit to a Bedouin camp for food and entertainment under the desert’s starry skies. Most of the camps offer overnight stays, usually in a traditional Bedouin tent, as well as options to visit for meals or activities such as sand boarding, archery, dune safaris, and quad biking.

Sonara Camp Al Wadi in the Al Wadi nature reserve, home to numerous wildlife species including the Arabian oryx, Arabian gazelles, and the Arabian red fox, offers an award-winning sharing menu as well as entertainment including fire shows, interactive owl and hawk demonstrations, and musical performances on the oud, a pear-shaped, short-neck lute considered in Arabia to be the oldest of musical instruments.

Hajar Mountains

RAK is nowadays probably best known for its beaches and its golf courses, but in the eastern part of the emirate are the Hajar mountains, formed over 70 million years ago and home to Jebel Jais, which at over 6,233 feet is the UAE’s highest peak and marks the border with Oman. The mountains are home to mountain goats, shy mountain foxes, and wild cats, as well as a network of hiking trails. The mountains are also home to a variety of adrenaline activities to get your heart rate really racing.

Jais Sledder

The Jais Sledder is like a rollercoaster, but one in which you control the brakes! You strap into your seat and are winched to the top of the course before hurtling downwards at speeds of up to 25 miles per hour. The speed seems even faster — probably because you are sitting so close to the ground — but if you aren’t too heavy-handed with the brakes, you’ll only take about 8 minutes to cover the mile-long course of hairpin bends.

1484 By Puro

After disembarking from the sledder, we wound our way further up the majestic Hajar mountain range, stopping for lunch at 1484 by Puro, the highest restaurant in the UAE at — yes, you guessed it — 1,484 meters (4,868 feet) above sea level. From the base of the mountain, the 18-mile journey to the top takes about an hour on meandering hairpin roads. There are regular pull-ins so you can stop and admire the views, and the food once you get there is delicious.

Jebel Jais Zip Line

Jebel Jais is also home to the world’s longest zip line. At 1.7 miles long and suspended 5,500 feet in the air, you “fly” at speeds of up to 93 miles per hour above the awe-inspiring scenery of the Jebel Jais mountain range. For a brief moment, you may wonder what has possessed you to attempt the world’s longest zip line (Guinness World Record-certified), but before you’ve had time to think it through, the 3 minutes it takes to hurtle across the vast ravine is done, and you’re slowing down to arrive at the gondola on the other side of the canyon, finished with your ride.

Jais Sky Tour

If neither the sled nor the zip line takes your fancy, then the Jais Sky Tour offers a fun, but slightly less daunting option. The experience takes around 2 hours, working its way through a network of six zip lines covering around 3 miles in total, with plenty of birds-eye views of the Hajar’s peaks and valleys from as high as 4,100 feet.

The Highlander 55

Hiking the Jebel Jais mountains is like no other experience in the region. World-class hikers describe the area as one of the most beautiful globally, with its unique landscapes and views across Oman and the UAE over flourishing date farms, down to the mangroves, and to the shores of the Arabian Gulf.

Annually, in November, the Highlander Ras al Khaimah (part of the Highlander Adventure collection, a global series of long-distance hiking events) takes place. There are two options to choose from: the 55-kilometer (34-mile) 3-day Highlander55 or the 30-kilometer (18.5-mile) 2-day Highlander Experience. We chose the 3-day Highlander55 option.

Carrying rucksacks of around 33 pounds — more than a third of which was water — we started at the foot of Jebel Jais, trekking through a dry river bed, past the occasional isolated village, onwards and ever upwards. 10 miles later, we reached our campsite, near the top of Jebel Jais.

Day 2 was even tougher, and we spent it navigating the rocky ridges of the western side of Jebel Jais, looking down over the sea of Oman, and hiking through the mountains on a donkey trail used by the mountain tribes of Ras Al Khaimah, before finally, 8 hours later, reaching our campsite in a dry wadi. My husband was so exhausted he could only stand mutely by as I erected our tent, and once that was done, he stumbled inside, barely moving till morning.

The final day was 8 miles of undulating rocky trails to the finish line and a well-deserved rest at Bear Grylls Explorers Camp (BGEC), an adventure camp nestled in a gorge in the Hajar Mountains. Rooms at BGEC are converted shipping containers with bunk beds and basic amenities, but after 3 days of tough trekking, we thought it was paradise. Whilst the Highlander is not everyone’s idea of a holiday activity, I can highly recommend it to those who are very fit and looking for a challenge.

Forget everything you think you know about the UAE; Ras Al Khaimah is a world away from, and significantly cheaper than, the skyscraper-choked emirates of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Instead, you’ll find an outdoorsy destination with mountains, desert, beaches, and culture thrown into the mix. This hidden gem in the Middle East is just starting to get noticed, so be among the first to discover this emerging destination and see the United Arab Emirates in a whole different light.

With its sprawling beachfront and wide, shady boulevards, Tel Aviv is a stunning city that never sleeps. But the White City offers more than just its good looks — it’s a”foodie-forward” city. Its diversity of fresh, flavorful, and fabulous food has resulted in being voted one of the top destinations for vegan travelers. From street food to top chefs, the cooks and kitchens of this city adopted a fusion of culinary traditions and cooking methods spanning 3,000 years of history all over the globe.

From the pedestrian streets of Carmel Market to the stone paths of Jaffa’s old city, I absolutely fell in love with the delicious dishes and food culture in Tel Aviv. I have listed some of my favorite foods in Tel Aviv, giving you a bit of background on what and how, as well as where to go and try each one.

Tourist Israel was my host for the Tel Aviv Food Tasting Tour of the Carmel Market which contributed to this article. However, all opinions are my own. 

1. Falafel

Hakosem Falafel

Falafel is a fried ball made of chickpeas, spices, and herbs; it is one of Tel Aviv’s most recognized street foods and is considered the national dish of Israel. Crispy and crunchy, it’s most often served in a fresh pita with a salad, pickles, and tahini. It’s one of Israel’s favorite street foods and vegetarian, perfect for everyone.

You can find great Falafel everywhere in Tel Aviv, from street stalls to markets. My favorite was Hakosem Falafel in the heart of Tel Aviv-Yafo. It’s a street food establishment that offers Israeli cuisine with good vibes and a bustling atmosphere.

2. Knafeh 

Yaffa Knafeh 

Knafeh is a fantastic traditional Middle Eastern sweet dessert of syrup-dipped pastry filled with cheese and often pistachios and other treats on top. Near the flea market, I passed Yaffa Knafeh on my bike and noticed a line of people wrapped down the street. I just had to stop and see what the fuss was all about. 

Watching the cooks put the knafeh pans on the hot coals, flip them, add a splash of sweet syrup, and listen to it sizzle — the best. If you eat dinner in Jafffa or are simply out for a stroll, do not pass up Yaffa Knafeh for dessert. Your sweet tooth will thank you.

Pro Tip: Top off the warm knafeh with goat cheese ice cream and chopped pistachios. 

3. Halva

Magic Halvah 

Halva is a confection made from sesame seed paste and sugar with a dense texture and a nutty aroma. It comes in different flavors, such as vanilla and chocolate, and is infused with nuts and other things.

Magic Halvah (Kesem Ha Halva) is a small shop in Levinsky Market offering a variety of halva and is a must-visit. My favorite is topped with pistachios. They will cut a whole slice for you, then you cut it into bite-sized pieces to savor along with coffee or tea.

4. Spices And Herbs 

Pereg Spices

Tel Aviv is famous for hard-to-find eastern spices and herbs. Pereg Spices in Levinsky Market is one of the hidden gems of Tel Aviv, loved by locals and tourists alike who quickly fall in love with its one-of-a-kind atmosphere and a plethora of local and Middle Eastern spices and herb blends, including za’atar. 

In the late 1920s, many working-class immigrants from Greece settled in the Florentin neighborhood in the south of Tel Aviv. Levinsky Market became the throbbing heart of this immigrant neighborhood, a reflection of the cultural melting pot where you could find spices and goods from around the globe.

5. Shakshouka

Dr. Shakshuka

This North African baked egg dish contains tomato, onion, cumin, chili peppers, and spices. It is served sizzling hot with sunny-side-up eggs on top. Traditionally eaten for breakfast, this one-skillet dish is best enjoyed with warm slices of thick bread to mop up all the flavors. It’s an Israeli staple and the ultimate comfort food.

Dr. Shakshuka is a well-known culinary institution in Jaffa. Founded in the ‘90s, this kosher establishment feeds hungry people who love this authentic food.

6. Druze Pita

Carmel Market

The freshly-rolled dough is stretched by spinning it between the hands and flipping it onto a dome-shaped oven on which it cooks. The pita, which is large and thin, browns and bubbles lightly. It’s folded and slathered with Labneh white cheese, za’atar spice, tabouli, and olive oil; rolled up; and sliced into pieces for easy eating. The Druze are a small ethnic minority in Israel, but their bread — and reputation for making it — is renowned.

Carmel Market is Tel Aviv’s largest and most-famous cultural melting pot. It was a popular stop on my food-tasting tour of the Carmel Market. Crowds gathered and watched the cook transform one giant pita after another, waiting for a taste.

This Yemenite flatbread has a touch of tang, similar in texture to Ethiopian injera bread, spotted with holes created by fermentation bubbles. Spongy like a crumpet on one side and smooth like a pancake on the other, it is served with tasty Yemenite sides like baked eggs, fresh tomato, and spicy green chile sauce called “zhug.” I recommend savoring the bread with delicious Yemini stews or soups.

Shaluf and Sons is an authentic Yemini eatery where you can eat on a budget in the Kerem Hateimanim neighborhood, outside the Levinsky Market. Stop for lunch, sit at a communal table, and the staff will assist with recommendations on all the delicious Yemenite delights.

7. Local Cheeses

Beit Kandinof 

Israel’s cuisine is heavily influenced by dairy, which plays a prominent role on most menus throughout the country, especially around the Festival of Shavuot. This delicious, grilled bryndza cheese is a sheep cheese swimming in a savory tomato cream, topped with mixed nuts and green chili oil. 

Beit Kandinof is a combination of an art gallery, bar, and restaurant with a fun atmosphere. Located in the Kandinov House, it was built adjacent to the walls of Old Jaffa and the port walls at the end of the 19th century. This satisfying grilled bryndza cheese was just one course of my favorite meal in Tel Aviv.

8. Hummus

Abu Hassan Restaurant

A plate of hummus is one of Israel’s most iconic dishes. Any rendition of Israel’s most iconic food you find in Tel Aviv will shame the supermarket version in the U.S. The simplicity of the chickpeas with fresh tahini scooped up with warm rounds of pita can’t be beaten.

Abu Hassan is said to serve the best hummus in Israel. This culinary gem is a tiny place with simple kitchen tables and a scarce amount of chairs; the long lines prove something special is done here. 

Pro Tip: You must go before 2 p.m. as they close after the daily batch finishes.

9. Shawarma 

Golda’s Deli

Shawarma is a popular Middle Eastern dish featuring slow-roasted, mouth-watering meats, usually cooked on a revolving spit and shaved for serving. I had a turkey shawarma plate with burnt eggplant, onion in sumac, tomato, parsley, and sauerkraut tahini served with pita at Golda’s Deli in the Jaffa Hotel.

Named after Israel’s first female prime minister, Gold Meir, the deli-style restaurant features Israeli classics, a street-food-inspired menu, and fresh Mediterranean salads from an open kitchen. Dining in the lovely open courtyard of the hotel, choosing just one of the options was hard. I couldn’t resist adding a poppy-seed-covered bagel as big as the plate.

10. Kubbeh

Levinsky Market

Kubbeh is a popular dish in Levantine cuisine and is made of bulgur and minced onions with ground beef, lamb, or goat. Aromatic meat and spices can be fried, baked, or cooked in a broth. Proprietor Avi was surrounded by giant bubbling pots and everything smelled delicious.

Located at Stall 53 in the Levinsky Market, in the southern part of Tel Aviv, it brims with atmosphere and aromas. The Levinsky Market was founded by Greek immigrants in the 1920s, and later, welcomed an influx of Iranian, Persian, and Yemenite immigrants who shared their dishes and customs from home. 

Pro Tip: The market operates daily from Sunday through Thursday and closes early Friday afternoon through Saturday for Shabbat.

11. Kataifi

Carmel Market 

Kataifi is a popular dessert in the Middle East, Turkey, and Greece. The buttery, shredded dough and a mixture of coarsely-chopped nuts are generously soaked in cinnamon-flavored sugar syrup. Much like baklava, I loved the little bird nest shapes filled with pistachios.

This is one of many vendors in Carmel Market that first opened in 1920. I marveled at the sweet treats around every corner. This stall was overflowing with heavenly bites just waiting for passersby to try and take home. 

Pro Tip: Take the Tel Aviv Food Tasting Tour of the Carmel Market with Tourist Israel. The 2-hour tour is an introduction to the market and a delicious tasting opportunity.

When in Dubai, one of the emirates in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) in the Middle East, it’s all about glitz, glamor, incredible skyscrapers such as the Burj Khalifa, and luxury. There is shopping that offers not only the Dubai Mall and Dubai Fountain — the world’s largest mall and fountain in downtown Dubai — but also top designer labels and more Michelin-starred restaurants than you can throw a wooden spoon at. And then there are the amazing, star hotels perfect for a luxury getaway.

You know that feeling, when you walk into a hotel lobby to check-in, and simply stop dead, looking up and all around, your jaw-dropping and neck craning? It’s those types of hotels.

I have been lucky to have spent 6 years in Dubai, and while my days were taken up by work and school runs, I still spent a lot of time in family-friendly Dubai hotels, where you find the best restaurants, meet friends for brunch, or spend the weekend poolside or enjoying sea views. I have, since I left, visited many times, and got to not only visit but also stay in some superb hotels, boutique hotels, and desert resorts. 

Here, I have compiled some that tick many boxes, from completely over the top luxury to elegant and non-intrusive luxury, from those with the best brunches to those with added extras, such as a fun water park like Wild Wadi. Something for everybody, but all at times with an eye-watering price tag.

So, whether you are lucky enough to travel on a luxury budget, are saving up for a special occasion, or just like to look at what is out there and dream, these are for you. Please note that you will see mention of Jumeirah throughout this article and this can either relate to the hotel group, neighborhood, souk Madinat Jumeirah, or Jumeirah Beach.

1. Burj Al Arab Jumeirah

Without a doubt, the Burj Al Arab is Dubai’s most iconic hotel. Sitting on its own small island, the sleek sail-shaped hotel is known for its decadent luxury. Be it that everything that looks like gold, is indeed gold and that the glittering ceiling of the in-house restaurant is the largest Swarovski-crystal-studded ceiling in the world, or that the lobby boasts a 590-foot, or 18-story, tall atrium complete with fountains and aquaria, everything about this hotel is mind-blowing.

You can stay in guest rooms costing just over $1,000 per night, or in the Royal Suite, where you won’t see much change from $20,000. You will, however, be able to enjoy the stunning spa and hammam 490 feet above the surrounding sea, rest your head on one or two of the 17 types of pillows on the pillow menu, get pampered by the butler services, or even visit the on-site turtle hospital.

Pro Tip: You can get a look inside and behind the scenes of this amazing hotel during a guided hotel tour, which allows you to snoop around without spending a fortune.

2. Atlantis, The Palm

Twin of the Atlantis Hotel on Paradise Island in the Bahamas, the Atlantis, The Palm in Dubai is a huge hotel resort at the end of the manmade island called The Palm Jumeirah. In the lobby, an enormous glass sculpture from Dale Chihuly welcomes you. You have countless top restaurants including the lovely Nobu in-house and there is even a luxury shopping mall and a beach club. Most noticeable is the region’s largest aquarium, in which you can go for a dive and swim with sharks. It also has a handful of underwater suites with floor-to-ceiling windows making for a quite unique view. Other rooms and suites either look out over Palm Island or offer an Arabian Gulf view. Or, you could opt to stay in the utterly decadent Grand Atlantis Suite, which comes complete with two marine-themed fountains, five balconies, and views of both the Palm as well as the sea. It offers two bedrooms and around-the-clock butler service on just over 4,600 square feet. It’s a snip at $25,000 a night.

The property now has another addition, the Atlantis The Royal Dubai, which opened in early 2023 in spectacular fashion and is aiming toward the title of best luxury hotel in Dubai.

Pro Tip: Don’t miss out on the Aquaventure water park, reportedly the largest in the world. The steepest of water slides, lazy rivers, and enough fun for the whole family, to go at least twice.

3. Bulgari Resort Dubai

The Bulgari Resort Dubai is proof that luxury can be completely understated, yet omnipresent. The Italian luxury brand Bulgari does not only design desirable jewelry and watches but also has a hand at the elegant layout and interior décor that, together with a superb location and incredible restaurants onsite, will make you not want to leave the resort. Here the design is minimalist and unpretentious, yet luxurious. And it is the little touches that make a stay so memorable: You will receive a woven beach bag personalized with your initials to use — and keep for later.

You can hop into a Tesla car with batwing doors with the driver taking you to the restaurants across the in-resort marina; the balconies, with super-comfortable chairs and lounges, are huge, and you get little chocolates from the in-house chocolatier to sample and take away with you (if they last that long), and the minibar looks like an old-fashioned travel trunk.

Pro Tip: Onsite is a superb Italian restaurant, run by a Michelin-starred chef, and the excellent Yacht Club restaurant, which is perfect for lunch. Don’t miss the truffle pizza for starters — it’s so yummy. 

4. Jumeirah Al Qasr

The Al Qasr, The Castle, is probably my favorite luxury hotel in Dubai, for many reasons. The drive up to the entrance alone takes your breath away, and once you get out of your car by the fountain where golden horses frolic and enter the lobby with its palatial 1001 Arabian Nights arches and enormous flower arrangements, luxury will have swallowed you up. Add the lush garden setting with canals on which you can ride in an abra, a traditional boat, and the lovely beach with views across the iconic Burj Al Arab, the traditional wind-tower design of the villas, and it’s pretty nice. This is where you get a Friday brunch like no other, and this is also where my favorite restaurant in Dubai, Pierchic, is located perched at the end of a pier with stunning views along the coast. 

Pro Tip: This hotel is part of four luxury hotels all nestled within steps from each other, all owned by the Jumeirah group, so you have a plethora of restaurants and facilities to choose from.

5. Palazzo Versace Dubai

After your personal Bentley car has transferred you from the airport to the Palazzo Versace Dubai and you have taken in the typically Versace gold and swirly decor with the emblematic Medusa’s head in evidence everywhere, even in the pool, you will appreciate the different setting for this luxury resort. Instead of along the Arabian Gulf, you’ll find the Palazzo Versace by the Dubai Creek, the manmade inlet of water that winds its way around Dubai, with many an iconic building alongside it, and the Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary, famous for its countless flamingos, practically on the doorstep. Despite its city location, you have three superb pools fringed by palm trees, and cozy cabanas dotted around for privacy. A selection of restaurants, including one by Michelin-starred chef Mansour Memarian, allows you to dine off Versace fine tableware and, should you feel you need more Versace design in your life back home, there is a shop selling sumptuous interior décor. Despite its opulence, this is one of the more affordable luxury hotels in Dubai, with prices starting at around $350 per night.

Pro Tip: If the various pools are not enough, you can get a free VIP pass to the Nikki Beach Resort and Spa, for a day on the beach.

6. Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai

The Mandarin Oriental has a reputation that goes before it, and the Dubai property does not disappoint. Set along a private beach with rooms offering views either of the Arabian Gulf or the stunning Dubai skyline, this property will make you gasp as you walk under lit metal trees in the lobby, all the way down to the beach. You are greeted by staff donning blue Fedora hats and frock coats and navigate the garden across teak walkways and bridges to the cabanas and five outdoor pools. For fitness freaks, there is also a noted Outrace and Technogym with numerous classes on offer as well, from a beach boot camp to boxing and yoga and dancing.

While you choose where to stay in Dubai, consider these things to do:

• The 17 Best Things To Do In Dubai
• Take A Plunge Into The World’s Deepest Swimming Pool, Complete With A Sunken City
• 9 Amazing Things To Do In Dubai

The United Arab Emirates, the UAE, is a country located to the east of the Arabian Peninsula pointing into the Arabian Gulf just north of Oman. It’s a union made up of seven individual emirates, each with their own rulers, but overall governed by the capital Abu Dhabi, the most visited and best known of the emirates internationally is doubtless Dubai.

Having lived in Dubai for 6 years, I have had a chance to visit each of the emirates repeatedly, exploring the sights and attractions. Here are my three favorite things to do in each of the emirates.

Abu Dhabi

The largest emirate with more towns than just the capital city, Abu Dhabi is making a mark as an emirate that takes sustainability seriously, with the low-carbon city Masdar and several nature reserves. It’s also home to world-class branches of the biggest names in museums, such as the Louvre and the Guggenheim, due to be finished in 2025.

1. Louvre Abu Dhabi

My top location in Abu Dhabi is the Jean Nouvel-designed Abu Dhabi Louvre, with not only superb exhibits, historic artifacts, and art, but also a building that would be worth visiting even if it was empty.

2. Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Aim to get to the Grand Mosque just before sunset, and you’ll not only be in place for the haunting call to prayer, but also a play of light that enhances the shimmering white marble of this grand mosque to perfection. Just remember to cover up — ladies need to have covered heads, arms, and legs. Use it as an excuse to buy a stylish abaya.

3. The Empty Quarter

A 30-minute drive from the bustling capital city, you will hit the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world, and — in my mind — the most beautiful place in the Emirates. You can drive all the way to the oasis of Liwa, through endless red sand dunes, or simply head to the luxury Qasr al Sarab hotel for an unforgettable stay.

Dubai

Dubai is a popular layover and transit hub, a party city crammed full of luxury hotels, fabulous shopping — such as in the Dubai Mall, reportedly the largest mall in the world — and top-notch restaurants from around the globe. There are adrenaline-filled experiences and much fun to be had, and choosing just three things to do is difficult.

1. Museum Of The Future

Opened in 2022, the Museum of the Future is not only a gorgeous building (try and head there after dark for some great photographs) but also a superb museum with mind-blowing exhibits. You even have an AI guide and a flying fish, of sorts. Very much themed around sustainability, it will make you gasp, as well as think.

2. Burj Khalifa

Obviously, you cannot miss out on getting to the top of the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa. The views are incredible, highlighting just how close this modern city is to the desert, and offering quite a thrill. And you are steps away from the Dubai Mall and the Dancing Fountain, the world’s largest, making this a place you can spend all day and night.

3. Wild Wadi

It gets hot in the UAE, and there is nothing better than cooling off in a water park. And no, this is not just for children, but it helps if you are young at heart. Rent yourself a cabana and meander along the lazy river in a large rubber ring, even if you forgo the thrilling slides. Wild Wadi is still my favorite, despite the larger Aquaventure at the Atlantis Dubai.

Sharjah

Sharjah is the UAE’s third most populous city and the emirate next to Dubai. It’s known as a cultural emirate filled with libraries, cultural centers, and museums. This is also the only “dry” emirate, with no alcohol served even in the luxury hotels.

1. Museum Of Islamic Civilization

Some 5,000+ artifacts detailing the Islamic civilization make for a stunning display of gorgeous calligraphy, manuscripts, pottery and glass, coins and jewelry, and little artifacts you’d love to display in your own home. All housed in a stunning landmark, this Museum of Islamic Civilisation is worth spending a few hours in.

2. Al Madam Village

Is there anything more fascinating than an abandoned village? Al Madam was only built in the 1970s and abandoned some 10 years after, but it looks like time has forgotten the village. Reasons given were the djinns, ghosts that supposedly haunt the village, or maybe more likely, the lack of infrastructure. The fact is though, that the desert has started to reclaim Al Madam, making it a great spot for interesting photographs.

3. Al Qasba

Al Qasba is one of those destinations within a destination It’s an entire quarter by the waterfront filled with shops, restaurants, a Ferris wheel, galleries, and Instagramable spots. The Maraya Arts Center is worth a visit, always showcasing regional artists’ work. This is a lovely place just to stroll or take a boat trip along the waterways.

Ajman

Ajman, the next emirate along the coast, is practically merging into Sharjah. I have to admit that I first went to Ajman to buy some wine, as the alcohol laws are more relaxed there, and you do not need a permit. But while securing my tipple, I also discovered a lovely emirate with very traditional sights.

1. Al Tallah Camel Racecourse

Camel racing is a traditional pastime in the UAE and the surrounding countries, with often large race courses. Here in Ajman, it is a more sedate affair — but no less exciting. The camel races are fun to watch, especially as the camels are ridden by little robots, making for an unusual spectacle.

2. Dhow Shipbuilding Yard

Ajman has a lovely still busy shipyard where they still build the traditional regional boats, the dhows. Worth sitting nearby and watching the age-old craftsmanship in action.

3. Ajman Museum 

This is a lovely little museum located in a small white fort detailing the history of Ajman. Very different from the modern museums in other emirates, it’s a little gem.

Umm Al Quwain

Even though only the second smallest emirate after Ajman, Umm al Quwain is probably the most overlooked, driven through and passed, but rarely stopped at. More nature than city, this little emirate is great for wildlife lovers.

1. Seneyah Island

Off the coast of Umm al Quwain, the 5-mile-long island used to be settled by the emirates’ residents but is now a haven for gazelles and birds. Among the mangroves and ghaf trees, you will find archaeological sites and a timeless landscape.

2. Vida Beach Resort

Away from the frantic fun in Dubai, you can stay in this lovely beach resort and enjoy the same coastline as Dubai, just much less crowded. This makes a great base for exploring this end of the UAE.

3. Mangrove Beach

This is where the fun is, with water sports galore. In keeping with the sedate emirate, go for a kayak among the mangroves and spot the local birds.

Ras Al Khaimah

Where Dubai offers the city thrills, Ras al Khaimah offers outdoor exhilaration. Look no further for adventure and adrenaline thrills.

1. Mountain Climbing And Hiking

Ras Al Khaimah has the highest peaks in the UAE and plenty of opportunities to go hiking and climbing. But this is a formidable region, so best join a group with guidance.

2. Visit A Pearl Farm

The emirates have a long history of pearl farming, and at Suwaidi Pearls, you can learn more about these precious gems and their link to the UAE.

3. Toboggan Ride

Hiking not enough adrenaline for you? Try a toboggan ride through the mountains. From the highest peak in the UAE, Jebel Jais, you ride down the mountain with fantastic views along the way.

Fujairah

Fujairah is one of my favorite emirates, as it is the only emirate to lie on the coast of the Indian Ocean and also has the Hajar Mountains as a backdrop. History and nature make this well worth exploring.

1. Snoopy Island

Can you resist that name? The island off the coastal resort of Sandy Beach looks like Snoopy lying on top of his doghouse, and offers superb scuba diving, dolphin-watching, and water sports. A boat ride along the stunning coast is an absolute must.

2. Al Bidya Mosque

The oldest mosque in the UAE — a million miles away in looks from the fancy Abu Dhabi one — is a tiny adobe mosque dating to somewhere around the 15^th century and is even on the tentative UNESCO list.

3. Hajar Mountains Wadis

Organize a local driver through our hotel, or hire a car, and go wadi exploring. Having the same rugged countryside as Oman, lying to either side of Fujairah, here you find similar natural wonders.

Pro Tip: The best way to explore all the emirates is by renting a car. The road system is great and the distances easily manageable. Just bring your passport, visa, and International Driving License and you can rent a car from any of the largest airports.

Related Reading:

• 9 Beautiful Natural Wonders To Experience In The Middle East
• 7 Amazing Once-In-A-Lifetime Experiences In Bahrain
• 8 Of The Most Beautiful Places In Abu Dhabi

Considered the Mediterranean capital of cool by the New York Times, Tel Aviv inspires as the best beach city, the best foodie city, the ultimate party city, and the world’s best gay city. Tel Aviv shines with sunny weather almost all year long with stretches of golden sand.

Absorb the atmosphere by walking and exploring the colorful markets and wind your way through the streets of Bauhaus architecture. Fall in love with action-packed Tel Aviv, a city with a major heartbeat.

My trip was hosted by the Israel Ministry of Tourism, but all opinions are my own.

Here are five experiences not to miss on your first trip to Tel Aviv.

1. Ilana Goor Museum

In Jaffa’s ancient port town, artist, designer, and sculptor Ilana Goor founded this seaside museum in her home on a hill in 1995, showcasing her own work and art and treasures she collected on her travels for over 50 years. Originally erected in 1742, the building sits in a stunning oceanfront location once used as an inn for Jewish pilgrims traveling to Jerusalem, an olive oil soap factory, and a synagogue for Libyan Jews.

Today, the popular Ilana Goor Museum boasts interesting rooms filled with curiosities and bold pieces of art everywhere you look. On the top-level floor, stare through the kitchen window where dangling copper pots and ceramic vessels frame your ocean view straight to the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. In the kitchen, witness the original “beehive technique” ceiling constructed in the 18^th century, uncovered due to repairs. The entire museum home is an architectural marvel and only enhances the existing displayed artwork.

Pro Tip: Find Ilana’s “celebrity wall” filled with photos of her with presidents and influential people from all over the world.

2. Carmel Market

Known locally as Shuk HaCarmel, Tel Aviv’s largest and busiest market is like an overdose of scents, sounds, colors, and people from all over the world crammed in a few small streets filled with stalls of fresh meat, fruit, fish, and vegetables. Here we also found knockoff goods, clothing and jewelry, and many prepared food options.

Coffee, History, And Burikas

After ducking into the crammed food market, our tour guide Yuma informed us that Arab men brought coffee to the modern world in the 7^th century as they found the beans and drank from the same cup for hours. We sipped the strong dark concoction without sugar or milk while learning about the Yemenite Jews who first opened markets here, although they were shunned by the existing Jewish people and considered outsiders.  Regardless, the Yemenites continued to play their music daily out on the streets in this Carmel Market area, even though they weren’t embraced by Israeli culture and serious tensions arose over the years.

Weaving out of the packed market crowd, we gobble down burikas in pita stuffed with tomato and egg, sample spinach and cheese Turkish bourekas, sip pomegranate juice, and try raw sweet corn served on a stick. It’s hard not to admire vegetables we have never seen like long tapioca root, Willy Wonka-like cucumbers, and ridiculously long green beans. A happy dancing singing food preparer captures our attention as he makes a phyllo stuffed roll with egg and tomato.

Bauhaus, Bites, And Beer

Looking up from the market, fancy million-dollar apartments now hug this center and are built next to the Bauhaus-style buildings brought by Jewish architects when they were ordered in the 1930s to stop working in Germany. Erasing the pretty and decorative elements after the Great War, the Bauhaus style flourished here from the 1920s to the 1940s, now declared a Heritage Site as the area encompasses the largest concentration of this architectural style.

We sample the chalky Israeli staple halva and popular Arab knafeh, a sweet spun pastry often layered with cheese and made with a sweet sauce and sometimes roses. 

Hummus tantalizes our tongues again and we watch as Iraqis sell their famous fried spicy beef cigars similar to meat sticks. At the Beer Bazaar, we sample Israeli craft beer with over 70 different kinds of local brews while we learn Goldstar and Macabe are the most popular. The tour makes us aware of things we wouldn’t have paid attention to like the original market entrance was once the entrance into the fruit market.

Pro Tip: To get to know the history of the Carmel Market area and sample a wide range of foods, book a tour with Yuma at WorldCity Tel Aviv Food Tours.

3. Jaffa Flea Market

Jaffa is a place that integrates new and old, cheap and expensive — where you can catch a whiff of the olden days while witnessing the modern world and day-to-day life. This ancient city standing on a piece of land jutting into the Mediterranean is an intriguing place to visit with unique sites, historical treasures, boutique shops, and cultural centers. Young talents, artists, celebrities, and families from Jewish, Muslim, and Christian backgrounds all call this piece of land home.

Get lost in the Jaffa Flea Market’s surrounding area where streets explode with colorful kilim rugs, Middle Eastern antiques, and stores stuffed with art, furniture, and every eclectic find one could dream up. Eateries and local designer boutiques abound. It’s fun just to wander around to poke in the clothes stalls, take home second-hand finds, or grab some street food.

Pro Tip: Grab lunch at nearby Shawarma Abouelafia, around since 1879. Order the $15 shawarma and load up on extra fixings like eggplant. Across the street, drool over products like Jerusalem bagels in the window at Abouelafia Bakery.

4. Tel Aviv Promenade

Besides walking around the old Jaffa port and major arteries like trendy Rothschild Boulevard, spend a day cruising down the beach promenade that runs along the sand for almost 9 miles. Go for a jog, bike ride, or just chill on a bench or beach bed as white sails bob on the waves, windsurfers fly across the sea, and surfers catch the ultimate ride. There are an endless array of beach bars, clubs, and cafes to stop for a drink or bite.

Pro Tip: Traffic can be rough at certain hours, so walking is the best way to experience the city — but rideshares work well when you are too tired to walk.

My Favorite Restaurants

Find top-tier chefs in this culinary capital with the city’s dining map expanding around the globe. Many chefs return from travels to combine tastes, flavors, and ingredients from the Middle East, often refining them with French and Italian cooking methods. Restaurants dot Tel Aviv’s streets from north to south but are heavily concentrated around Rothschild Blvd. Many restaurants offer a fixed lunch menu.

The Old Man And The Sea

Dine at legendary The Old Man and the Sea in the Jaffa Port, where an onslaught of pita and various salads and dips arrive complimentary with a main course and homemade lemonade. Order the fish and sit outdoors overlooking the marina.

ARIA

For a fine dining experience, book reservations at ARIA, housed in a historic two-story building. Chef Guy Gamzu prepares eclectic modern dishes with a focus on seasonal and raw ingredients like fresh fish, ceviche, handmade pastas, and an ever-evolving menu. Sample some of our favorite dishes like thin raw fish, Iranian kofta, fattoush salad, cauliflower steak, and Uzbek steamed dumplings filled with lamb, cumin seeds, onion, sheep’s yogurt, and aromatic oils. For more of a nightlife experience, head downstairs to the bar.

Messa

A step into Messa and you might think you are in New York City, with its uber-chic white-on-white décor, long fancy tables, and projected moving lips on the curtains. Here, famed Chef Aviv Moshe brings haute cuisine and inventive dishes created from memories of his childhood, alongside Provençal cooking. Every dish arrives like a piece of art — from tuna sashimi and beef carpaccio to porcini, mascarpone tortellini, and gnocchi with pumpkin.

Pro Tip: Since Tel Aviv is a major city, book reservations in advance to secure a table.

Where To Stay

Carlton Tel Aviv

Beachside Carlton Tel Aviv (“Where the City meets the Sea”) is a stay you surely won’t forget as modern rooms come with expansive ocean views above the sea, a rooftop pool perfect for sunset cocktails, and a beach bungalow bar restaurant where a grand breakfast beachside is the best way to try many new foods. An extraordinary setup boasts cheese spreads, fruit galore, a halva bar, knafeh, raw fish, shakshouka, eggplant, and more.

Atlas Center Chic Hotel

For a boutique hotel experience, the Atlas Hotel brand offers many properties in Tel Aviv and Israel. Atlas’s Center Chic Hotel sits off of the busy fun Dizengoff Circle. Rooms are adorably designed and come with wine and chocolates, complimentary bikes, complimentary happy hour, and a rooftop garden.

Atlas Cinema Hotel

The Atlas Cinema Hotel across the way is like a mini museum filled with old film memorabilia and an old Charlie Chaplin film rolling in the lobby, preserving the location’s history as a movie theater that was built in 1939 in the Bauhaus architectural style.

Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is home to the pyramids and some mind-blowing ancient treasures. A city with a population of around 21 million, which makes it the second largest city area in Africa, it can be daunting at first glance. Smog hangs over the buildings, traffic is deadlocked, the noise can be deafening. Yet there is something about this city on the Nile that had me say “I could live here” on my very first visit.

Be it the mix of ancient and modern history, or be it the presence of the historic Nile river with feluccas sailing by even in the bustling city center. Maybe the thousand minarets (the skinny towers typical of mosques) sticking up from the city, or maybe the many small food carts serving up fresh delights every night alongside the quays of the Nile. There definitely is something very special about Cairo.

Cairo is the starting point for most visitors to Egypt because of the Cairo International Airport, the opportunities for interesting day trips (such as to Memphis, south of Cairo, or north to the Mediterranean) it presents, or the cruises that head up the Nile to Aswan. But the biggest draw for tourists is the nearby Giza pyramid complex, which includes the Great Pyramid of Giza. After all, coming to Egypt without seeing the pyramids is like missing the Eiffel Tower in Paris. But what else is there to do once you have clambered around the pyramids and marveled at the Sphinx? Plenty.

Read on for some great things to see and do while in Cairo.

1. Museum Of Egyptian Antiquities / Grand Egyptian Museum

Let’s start with a bit of an unknown. The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, or Cairo Museum, was once the oldest archeological museum in the Middle East, holding a collection of more than 120,000 artifacts from ancient Egypt. It is in downtown Cairo, a hundred-odd yards from the central Tahrir Square. It’s home to the shimmering Tutankhamun mask, mummies, colossi from ancient temples, golden jewelry, and tiny but perfect objects that once amused a pharaoh. 

Still open at the time of writing, this colossus of a museum on the banks of the Nile is due to be superseded by a brand-new museum near the pyramids, on the outskirts of Cairo: The Grand Egyptian Museum. This museum’s opening has long been delayed, but eventually, all the important artifacts will be housed in the modern complex, while the old museum will undergo restorations and face an uncertain future. Whichever will be open when you reach Cairo, put either on top of your to-do list, as the ancient treasures brought together here are truly unbelievable.

2. National Museum Of Egyptian Civilization

The second new museum added to Cairo’s must-see list is the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, which will go hand in hand with the above museums but will concentrate on the history, and the telling of it, rather than on the individual artifacts. That said, the pharaohs’ mummies were transferred with great pomp and circumstance during the Former Rulers’ Parade in early 2021.

Located in the old part of Cairo and overlooking Ain El Sira Lake, where replicas of pharaonic boats float, the setting is scenic and tranquil, considering the noise of Cairo steps away from there. A stunning modern building, the displays take you through the different eras of Egyptian civilization and don’t just concentrate on the ancient pharaohs, but also include stunning examples of Islamic art and the Middle Eastern and Arab world.

3. Old Coptic Cairo

The winding alleyways of so-called Coptic Cairo, or Old Cairo, are several centuries older than Islamic Cairo and are a delight to get lost in. And get lost you will. There is much to see, starting with the Coptic Museum, showcasing some 15,000 pieces of art, taking you through Coptic as well as Cairo’s history. 

The Saint Virgin Mary’s Coptic Orthodox Church, or Hanging Church, is one of the oldest buildings in Coptic Cairo, and one of the oldest churches in Egypt, dating to the third century A.D. 

Dating to roughly the same age, the Mosque of Amr Ibn El-Aas lies just steps away from the church, showcasing the closeness of the religions in Old Cairo. The mosque is very picturesque with countless colonnaded walkways around a large expanse of marble courtyard.

4. The Khan El Khalili Bazaar

Since the 14th century, the old bazaar in Cairo, the Khan el Khalili (also spelled “Khan al-Khalili” or “Khan al Khalili”), has been drawing crowds. A warren of lanes filled with stalls, not unlike the Istanbul Grand Bazaar, the air is heavy with incense, the light reflected from many shimmering lanterns and mirrors, and anybody loving kitchen wares, be they bowls, pots, coasters other nice and useful items, will have to ask their airline for an extra baggage allowance. The atmosphere is buzzing. Yes, you do get asked where you are from, get stopped at every corner as soon as you dare to slow down, but this is part of the game. Look, haggle, and buy everything you can fit into your suitcase. I certainly did.

Rest for a tea on the terrace of one of the cafes alongside the Al-Hussain Mosque. Preferably around prayer time, watch the Muslim faithful congregate under the enormous umbrellas that give shelter in front of the mosque.

5. Al-Azhar Mosque

There are countless beautiful mosques dotted around Cairo, and during prayer time, the haunting calls to the faithful echo through the streets. One of the most beautiful mosques, though, is the Al-Azhar Mosque in the heart of Islamic Cairo, dating back to A.D. 972. The intricate Arabian architecture is just stunning, the courtyard is huge, and there are many small architectural details to be discovered. 

What makes this mosque even more special, though, is the fact that it is also one of the world’s oldest universities, established in A.D. 988 by Caliph El-Aziz. And those black, flowing gowns you wear when graduating from university? They originated right here and were inspired by the robes the students wore.

6. Salah El-Din Citadel

Salah El-Din Citadel, the Citadel of Saladin, was built around A.D. 1180 by Sultan Al-Nasir Salah al-Din Yusuf ibn Ayyub, better known simply as Salah ad-Din or Saladin, and the citadel became the seat of many rulers that followed him. 

The ancient fort looks across Cairo and is so vast that it houses a mosque and several museums within its sturdy walls. Its walls stretched so far that it once joined the city of Cairo with another old city called Ayyubid, protecting both cities from the Crusaders. But in 1798, Napoleon conquered Cairo and Alexandria and set up camp in the citadel, proving it was no longer invincible. Incidentally, while Napoleon was there, he also reportedly found the Rosetta Stone while digging near the foundations of another fort in the Nile Delta.

7. Saqqara Step Pyramid

Less than 20 miles outside of Cairo, toward the south, lies another pyramid, but one that is very different in design from the pyramids of Giza. The Step Pyramid of Djoser in Saqqara is not only the first known pyramid built by the ancient Egyptians, and thus Egypt’s oldest pyramid, but also Egypt’s oldest known stone structure, dating to around 2600 B.C. 

Standing in the middle of the desert in a ruined but still intriguing complex of other associated buildings, I first spotted this pyramid from the plane, coming in to land at Cairo International Airport. The complex is named after King Netjeryknet of the third dynasty, better known as Djoser, meaning Sacred or Holy One. He basically wanted a unique mortuary complex.

8. Cairo’s Necropolis

While the pyramids are the pharaohs’ necropolis, the more mortal peoples’ necropolis is right in the heart of Cairo: a vast cemetery filled with ancient graves dating back to the seventh century. But here, the necropolis is not merely a city of the dead, but very much of the living. Having turned into a settlement for the poorest of Cairo’s inhabitants, some of which have lived here all their lives, the necropolis today is a cross between a historic site and a slum. It is a fascinating outing to view the old mausoleums and tombs that survived the centuries, and you can go on a guided tour to learn more about the past while assessing the current situation for the residents of the necropolis.

9. Historic Hotels

As soon as the tombs of Egypt’s pharaohs were discovered in the late 19th century, tourism became a staple income for Egyptians, with travelers from around the world flocking to Cairo and beyond to experience what people then called The Orient. From Florence Nightingale to Agatha Christie, they all came, and they all wanted to stay somewhere stylish and comfortable.

Mena House

Many of the hotels that sprung up to cater to visitors are still going strong today. They make for great, historic stays. The most famous is probably the Mena House in Giza, with views across the pyramids. You have views from the old part, which is currently being restored, but also the more modern addition. It is a fabulous place to sit on your balcony and have the gigantic pyramids at the bottom of the garden.

Cairo Palace

For another great location, stay at the Cairo Palace, right by the Nile. The interior and the gardens are superb and offer an oasis away from the hectic city outside the front entrance.

Pro Tips: Cairo is easily and safely explored by metro, a much faster alternative to the taxis that get stuck in traffic all too often. 

Also, don’t forget, Cairo is a modern, bustling metropolis, with non-ancient sights, such as the Opera House or the Cairo Tower, well worth checking out if you have the time.

Twenty-twenty-two was my year for checking off bucket list items! I was finally able to take the 3-week tour my family and I had booked for early 2020: Egypt and Jordan. I had always wanted to see the pyramids, and I was so excited to finally visit in July of this year.

Egypt

After traveling for almost 2 days, we arrived in Cairo. It was nighttime and difficult to see anything out of the tour bus windows. We went to sleep immediately after arriving at our hotel, Steigenberger Cairo Pyramids. In the morning, I woke up, walked to the sliding doors, and pulled back the curtains. There was a pyramid, staring at me In all its morning sun glory! My heart pounded and I ran out to the balcony! It was like a rush! I was finally here, and my first view was of the pyramids! It was truly amazing, and I was awestruck.

Later that day we toured them and had our requisite photo taken with a camel. We dined that night in a rooftop restaurant overlooking Cairo while women baked pita bread in front of us. It was a dream. 

After the pyramids, I found myself thinking I had seen everything that I had wanted to see all my life. But then we took a 5-day Nile cruise. It was incredible! We stopped at each temple on the way. Each pharaoh built his own temple, and they were situated on the water. We would stop at each one, disembark, and go visit with our own tour guide. Some we saw during the day and some were lit in the evening. All of them were incredible and truly put the pyramids to shame. It was truly the trip of a lifetime!

Editor’s Note: Considering a Nile River cruise? Don’t miss Ulrike Lemmin-Woolfrey’s Everything You Need To Know Before Embarking On A Nile River Cruise.

Jordan

Jordan was so much like Israel: Desert and beautiful with brown houses and hotels built into the

sides of the mountains. Great civilian poverty together with rich ancient wealth. We stayed in The Old Village Resort overlooking the city by Petra. Eager for the next day, we all stood outside and marveled at the twinkling lights, feeling incredibly lucky to be there. 

Petra was wonderous and well worth the travel. We felt like we were in the Indiana Jones movies walking through the caverns on dusty paths, twisting and winding for a long time until bam! There was the Treasury! The infamous carved building you remember from the movie. You are not allowed inside, but you can scramble up the opposite side of the mountain and take photos. 

Our Jordanian tour guide informed us that it was built from the top of the mountain, down the cliff, like rappelling off the side of a mountain. The artists were hoisted and sat in swings for hours as they carved. It was a marvel and testimony to man to be able to envision and consummate that building. 

The city of Petra continued further, and our guide told us of The Monastery, which was built 950 feet high, the furthest building in Petra. We walked through the old city, which is now only inhabited during the day by vendors, who sell souvenirs, food, and water. We ran into other people from our tour and someone said, “Hey let’s try to walk to the top of the Monastery.” Eight of us started off. Not many endeavor to accomplish this rough, hard hike so high. The path was so narrow and switched back and forth. Some tourists paid for a donkey to ride up to the top. This was scary as the path was very precarious. One slip and you would fall very, very far down the mountain, with no hope of surviving. 

Incredibly, there were vendors with little shops set up along the terraced side of the mountain! We could purchase water (remember this was July!) and keep walking. We lost only one member of our group, who had to stop hiking and wait for us under a vendor’s cool tarp. We continued up the mountain, stopping to catch our breath several times. The last vendor encouraged us, “You’re almost there.” We turned the corner and stopped. We looked and saw a restaurant far away. We all looked at each other. We really climbed all this way for this?

We walked toward the restaurant, and behold! Immediately to our right around another corner was the magnificent, huge façade of an ancient building with many intricate columns and moldings. This was several times the importance and size of the Treasury. We whooped and hollered that we made it that far, congratulating ourselves and taking photos. It was quite the accomplishment! If you ever get a chance to go, make time and bring good shoes so you can climb to the Monastery!

Dead Sea

The last great bucket list item on our trip was a dip in the Dead Sea. We drove there and had a day pass($60 USD) at the Holiday Inn Dead Sea Resort. They have a private beach on the Dead Sea. It was really cool because we could swim in their pool afterward. A day pass is the way to go because you cannot spend more than 10 minutes in the Dead Sea as the salt content is so high. 

When we arrived, I could not wait to jump in the water. In deference to their Muslim culture, I had brought a modest swimsuit and I waded out. The water was not cool but it was not hot, either. I laid on my back and could not believe my own buoyancy! You really do float. I had brought my book to show that I could float and read without treading water. This was the end of our 3-week tour with E.F. Tours and our group of tourists had bonded so much, we played in that water like it was a pool party!

Pro Tip: Many people ask if I felt safe during my tour, and I would resoundingly say YES! There is a certain safety in a group tour. I would recommend a tour group because the cultures in these locations are so different from ours. Our tour leader stayed with us and became a friend to all. She lived there and guided us confidently. She was interesting and helpful. To me, this part of the world is so foreign and mysterious. I would encourage you to visit.

Want more bucket list trip inspiration? See all our bucket list content here.

Most of the Middle East is desert. Sounds boring, but a desert does not mean a monotonous landscape, instead, the desert here is very varied. There is, for example, the world’s largest sand desert, the Rub al Khali, or “Empty Quarter,” which stretches across Yemen and Saudi Arabia, touches Oman and the United Arab Emirates, and reaches into Qatar. Then, there are rocky deserts all across places like Saudi Arabia. They make for wondrous natural and historical sights, such as Hegra, the sister city of Petra in Jordan, both part of the Nabataean Kingdom. There are imposing mountain ranges, such as the Hajar Mountains in Oman, and the simple stretches of flat, rocky desert across all of the countries.

Of the countries mentioned, Lebanon is by far the greenest with its famous cedar trees. But, generally, desert scenery is pronounced in the Middle East and it makes for some truly stunning sights.

Having lived in Oman, the UAE, and Qatar, and visited all the others, here are my personal favorite natural wonders — in no particular order — to search out in the Middle East.

1. The Empty Quarter

United Arab Emirates (UAE)

I remember driving inland from Abu Dhabi, the capital of the UAE, toward the oasis of Liwa. On the car’s GPS monitor, at first there was a road, then nothing. All around, there were endless, beautiful red-hued sand dunes, smoothly undulating to the horizon. If you’ve never seen a sand desert without people, touristy camel rides, or anything as far as the eye can see, this is a sight to behold. It’s pure magic. The Rub al Khali offers 251,000 square miles of sand dunes, dotted with the occasional oasis, and once made for a formidable place to live for the now mostly sedentary Bedouin tribes that used to call this place home. To get a feel for the Empty Quarter, but with a touch of luxury as a reward, drive from Abu Dhabi to the Qasr al Sarab Resort by Anantara. The resort’s name translates to “Palace of the Mirage,” and it truly feels like that.

Pro Tip: Read Across the Empty Quarter by Wilfred Thesiger, an insightful account of the desert and its people.

2. The Dead Sea

Jordan

The Dead Sea’s fame has spread across its borders, which include Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank. What looks like a mirage in the desert, the green water is indeed so salty that you cannot swim or dive but instead float awkwardly on the top. Known for its high mineral content, bathing is supposed to be healthy, but only advised if you have no cuts or open wounds — it stings like crazy.

Pro Tip: There is a lot to see in the area, so it’s best to stay overnight and combine your salty dip with a visit to Wadi Rum or Petra on a tour from Amman.

3. The Arch

Saudi Arabia

In the middle of what feels like nowhere — but is in fact a short drive outside the palm oasis of AlUla, Saudi Arabia — lie some eerie rock formations that can be rather hard to find if you don’t know where to look. I must have driven up and down the track for more than an hour before I found the little turn-off, or recognized it for what it was. But once I arrived at the Arch, also called Rainbow Rock, it was a wonderful sight. There’s not only its delicate shape, but when you look closer, you see layers of pebbles in its foundations, eroded over millennia.

Pro Tip: There are tours to allow you to find Arch Rock a little easier, or you can download the precise locations of this and another great sight, Elephant Rock, on your phone.  

4. Bimmah Sinkhole

Oman

Oman is a country blessed with so many great natural sights, from the Indian Ocean coast to the endless desert, from the imposing Hajar Mountains to the incredible wadis. For nature lovers, this is a haven. But one sight that stood out for me was the huge hole in the ground filled with turquoise water — the Bimmah Sinkhole, a 1.5-hour drive outside of Muscat along the highway to Sur. According to local legend, the hole was created by a falling star, although the name suggests otherwise. Close to the coast, the sinkhole is fed by both freshwater and is also connected to the ocean underground. For a swim, you will need to head down a set of steps with good handrails.

Pro Tip: Going on a guided tour from Muscat not only takes in the sinkhole but also the lovely Wadi Shab.

5. Socotra Island

Yemen

For a disclaimer straight away: I have not visited this island personally, despite having previously traveled to Yemen. Alas, the political situation, as well as the remoteness of the island, still makes this a dream to be fulfilled. But as natural wonders in the Middle East go, it does not get better than Socotra Island. In fact, this archipelago located between Yemen and Somalia has been listed as a UNESCO-recognized natural wonder because of its unique plant and animal life. More than 30 percent of the listed 800-plus plant species and 90 percent of its reptiles are unique to the islands. The best-known trees here are the small baobabs and the truly amazing dragon’s blood trees, named for their red resin used in dyes. 

Pro Tip: It is possible to visit, they even have a visitors’ website, but it is so off the beaten path that it takes a little bit of determination. See you there?

6. Jeita Grotto

Lebanon

As I mentioned, Lebanon sticks out a little in this collection of Middle Eastern countries because it is relatively green and the desert is less dominant. But like a few of the other countries, it does have mountains; and where there are mountains, there are often caves. One of the best sights to explore in Lebanon is the Jeita Grotto, just 13 miles from Beirut. The cave system is a little touristy, but amazing to visit, nevertheless. A lake, stalagmites, stalactites, and even a cable car, make for a fine day out at a quite unusual natural wonder in the region.

Pro Tip: After visiting, why not head on to the lovely Wadi El Salib, a popular hiking area in the mountains with a stream and plenty of greenery?

7. The Inland Sea

Qatar

The eastern stretch of the Empty Quarter runs its course in Qatar, but not without first forming a UNESCO-listed natural sight that is breathtakingly beautiful. An inlet of the Persian Gulf creates the veritable Inland Sea, with turquoise waters hemmed by white, smooth sand dunes. In winter, the migrating flamingos add a pop of pink. An easy drive from the capital of Doha roughly an hour away, this is a weekend hotspot for locals and expats. Here, you can go dune-bashing up and down the sand dunes, have barbecue picnics on the beach, go scuba-diving, and do some swimming.

Pro Tip: You can visit for a few hours, spend a night watching the sunset and sunrise, camp in the desert overnight, or base yourself in the nearby Sealine Resort. The options are endless with Inland Sea Tours.

8. The Tree Of Life

Bahrain

On the main island of Bahrain, there is plenty to see and do — from exploring the modern capital of Manama and seeking out ancient tombs, to marveling at the causeway heading to Saudi Arabia and participating in plenty of water sports. But at the southeastern end of the island, things thin out, roads get fewer, buildings become sparse, and the rocky, flat desert takes over. But in the middle stands a tree, with its branches spread to the ground and plenty of leaves thriving on it. It is called the Tree of Life because there does not seem to be a recognizable source of water feeding it. There are no other trees nearby, and yet, the tree is reportedly some 400 years old and still going strong. It is a sight to behold just for its determination to be a tree in the desert.

Pro Tip: You can easily drive here from Manama, or go on a tour. For a small island nation, there is a surprising amount to see here.

9. Jebel Akhdar

Oman

High up in the Hajar Mountains, the weather is milder, much cooler than along the coast. Many locals take up residence over summer in the mountains, and farmers grow roses and pomegranates. Jebel Akhdar, appropriately translated as “Green Mountain,” is one of the must-see places in Muscat. Experience Oman’s Grand Canyon, which offers amazing hikes, several abandoned villages, and those beautiful farms that bring color and a subtle floral aroma to the region.

Pro Tip: You can visit on a day trip from Muscat. A much better idea, however, would be to book yourself into the rather swanky Anantara Jebel Al Akhdar Resort, which allows you to either get active, explore the neighborhood with a guide, or simply sample the roses and pomegranates grown locally in the spa.

We were in our mid-60s and had yet to take our dream trip to Israel. Even our daughter had been there twice already! We had conflicting feelings about this trip. Were we too old? Would we be able to get around to the sites we wanted to see? Was it safe to go? Finally, how could we craft a tour that would accommodate my husband’s Stage 4 (but stable) cancer diagnosis? After much research, we decided to create our own tour using a private guide. The following paragraphs explain the steps we took and the benefits of hiring a private guide.

1. Personalizes Your Itinerary

We looked at so many different “set” tours but couldn’t find one that covered all of the areas we wanted to see — geographically and culturally. Our family didn’t want to see just Jewish sites; we were interested in the Roman ruins on the northwest coast, the Western Wall in Jerusalem, and the possibility of snorkeling in Eilat at the southernmost tip of Israel — and we wanted to see Petra in Jordan.

To begin planning, I reviewed travel websites and talked to friends and relatives who had visited Israel and used private guides. This research helped me develop a “long list” of places we might want to see. Then, I broke this list down to geographical areas, thinking we’d need at least two days in each area. This helped with estimating the overall trip length. Plus, I wanted to build in a rest day every third day or so. This didn’t mean we actually rested, but it gave us the leeway to relax in our hotel — or to take a leisurely tour on our own.

So, I had a lengthy list of places we wanted to see, but it was not an itinerary that took into account real life in Israel. We needed a professional to convert our list into a dream vacation. Enter Shalom Israel Tours. In business for 20 years, they came highly recommended by friends and relatives who had used their private guide service. The company offers tours for just about any interest, but they specialize in crafting private tours. This was what we were looking for!

I’m not ashamed to say that I gathered up all my assorted ideas and sent them to Shalom Israel Tours. I asked if they could sort it into a 12-day itinerary, including hotels, transportation, transfers, and anything else we might need to arrange this trip — and find us a guide who would best meet our needs. We made our own air travel reservations but coordinated with the company so that we had airport transfers.

2. Focuses On Safety And Flexibility

In visiting disparate places, we were concerned about two things: safety and building in enough flexibility for rest periods. On our own, we were likely to either go places that were unsafe or not go anywhere for fear of compromising our safety. A private guide seemed to be the best solution.

Daniel Gutman, our guide, carried a gun and was visibly on alert when we were out and about in crowded areas. A licensed tour guide born in the U.S., Daniel currently has his own tour company, Israel With Daniel. He was aware of the current “hot” areas and could tell us whether we should visit them. One such area was the Temple Mount. Although we would have liked to see this — and could do this on our own, as tourists — Daniel advised against it because of heightened tensions. We took his advice.

We trusted Daniel to be sure we were safe and secure, but we took other steps before we even started our trip. We regularly checked the U.S. Embassy in Israel’s website for traveler warnings, checked to see which hospitals had the expertise we might need and could communicate in English, and bought travel insurance.

Pro Tip: In the interest of security and safety, it’s best to check with your guide about the current status of crossing into Jordan and getting back to Israel. There have been numerous complaints by tourists about the interviews at both ends of the connecting bridge. Here’s one thing we learned from personal (painful) experience: Take a close look at your passport photo. Does it look a lot like you look now? If not, you’ll be interviewed closely in Israel and in Jordan.

3. Makes Efficient Use Of Time

Shortly after receiving my hodgepodge of notes and ideas, Shalom Israel Tours came back with an itinerary. They had covered most of the sites we wanted to see — and even added a site or two that were worth visiting because we’d be in the vicinity. This was no easy task, as we wanted to see sites all over Israel and in Jordan. They provided an efficient schedule that allowed us to see more but retained rest days.

Our trip started with an airport transfer to the Hotel Dan Panorama in Tel Aviv. After a day at leisure (translation: catch up from jet lag), Daniel met us at the hotel and drove us to Israel’s northwest coast, where we toured the Roman Ruins in Caesarea, Acco Crusader Halls, and Appolonia National Park.

The next day we transferred by private car to Jerusalem. After spending the rest of the day at leisure, we tucked into bed at the Dan Panorama Jerusalem.

Daniel met us at the hotel the following morning and took us on a tour of the Old City Jewish Quarter, the Western Wall, Via Dolorosa and the Stations of the Cross, and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

The next day, we visited important sites around Jerusalem, including Gethsemane, Mount of Olives, and Dormition Abbey. Then we had another day “at leisure,” during which we took our own tour of Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust Remembrance Center. The following day, we headed to the Judean Desert, where we visited Masada, the Dead Sea, and Ahava’s Cosmetics Factory (we love their lotion!).

Finally, on Day 9, we started a 3-day group tour to Eilat in southern Israel and Petra in Jordan. Why a group tour? Our private guide could not provide this service for us, as he couldn’t cross into Jordan.

Home base was the Dan Panorama in Eilat. We toured the Red Sea Underwater Observatory but had to cancel plans to snorkel because the water was too cold.

Here’s where it pays to be flexible! Our 3-day tour “down south” was to include a trip to Petra. The rains in Petra (and the possibility of flooding) made it unsafe for us to travel there. The tour folks gave us a couple of alternatives, and we chose to see Wadi Rum by jeep. All I can say is “Wow!” The red rock formations were otherworldly, and we really enjoyed talking to our Bedouin Jeep driver and learning about his life. This was an amazing “detour”!

The next day we toured Ben Gurion’s home at Sde Boker and the Air Force Museum at Be’er Sheva. Finally, we headed back to Tel Aviv, spent the night, and were driven to the airport to catch our flight home.

4. Helps You Understand Local Culture

Having professionals plan the itinerary — and a private guide to bring it to life — was invaluable. In addition, we made friends with the concierge at Dan Panorama Jerusalem, and she had wonderful ideas that only a local can offer.

Within the walls of the Old City, it’s a particularly good idea to have a private guide. A local guide can steer you safely through the melange of cultures to the best restaurants, shops, and historic areas. We loved the Via Dolorosa, a beautiful gift shop (where spent more than we planned!), and learning how the different cultures lived together.

5. Shares History

Sure, you can look up all the facts online and do a self-guided tour. However, a private tour is about more than facts. A local private guide knows the stories behind the facts, the history that makes your visit meaningful.

6. Shows You Little Known Spots Within Popular Sites

In the hubbub of many of Israel’s important sites, there are things you won’t notice. A private guide can point out what you might normally miss. And they can point you in the right direction when you have time on your own.

Want to explore local shawarma, halva, and other specialty foods? Are you a history buff who wants to know more about the Roman ruins at Acco or the Mount of Olives? How about finding the best shops for Judaica? Your guide can provide the answers!

7. Helps Build Confidence In Planning Future Trips

Here’s the best part about planning a privately-guided trip. All the steps you take apply to just about any place you go. Just substitute your new destination and start researching. Be sure to check with friends and relatives and read reviews closely to find the best (for you) private guide. They are the framework upon which a glorious trip is based.

Ready to plan your trip to Israel? A private guide is the way to go. You’ll see just what you want, feel safe, and have the flexibility to make last-minute changes. Plus, with the right match, you’ll make a knowledgeable friend whose company you really enjoy!

See these TravelAwaits articles for more ideas:

• Our 12 Favorite Places We Visited In Israel
• 9 Experiences To Savor In Enchanting Tel Aviv
• 17 Incredible Experiences We Loved While Visiting Jerusalem

When my husband and I traveled to Jordan, we thought we were prepared to delve into a country and culture completely new to us. However, the realization that no amount of research can hold a candle to actually being there quickly set in. From our delightful interactions with the people we met to our unforgettable adventures, we took great joy in the discovery process.

I’m sharing what we learned in the hope our experiences will encourage you to journey to Jordan with confidence and a sense of wonder.

Pro Tip: The best times to visit Jordan are in the spring and fall. Outside the holy month of Ramadan is a good time.

A considerable portion of our Jordan experience was generously hosted by the Jordan Tourism Board. However, all opinions are entirely my own.

1. Jordan Is Safe

Despite its location in a volatile part of the world, At no time did we feel unsafe anywhere in Jordan. Yes, Jordan shares borders with Syria and Iraq, but it also shares borders with friendlier neighbors like Israel and Saudi Arabia.

Think of Jordan as a good family living on the edge of a rough neighborhood. Jordan’s military and security forces work hard to ensure violence doesn’t spill over its borders. Security is a priority, and although the presence of law enforcement is unobtrusive, it’s definitely there.

2. Jordan Requires A Visa And You’ll Want A Jordan Pass

Gaining entry to Jordan isn’t difficult. However, if you want to stretch your Jordanian dinars (JDs) a lot farther, consider pre-purchasing a Jordan Pass, which includes your required visa and admission to many of the country’s attractions.

How To Get Your Jordan Pass

Purchase your Jordan Pass from a secure website in advance of your trip. The pass will then be emailed to you. Print it out, and make sure to bring it with you.

Each Jordan pass includes free entry to over 40 attractions and free downloadable digital brochures. If you download your Jordan Pass before entering the country and stay at least three nights and four days, your tourist entry visa fees will be waived.

Pro Tip: You will need time to explore Jordan’s wealth of history, culture, and stunning scenery. We spent an entire week and it wasn’t nearly enough.

3. Jordan Is A Feast For The Senses

Jordan consists of many complex layers. You can do your research and come away with what amounts to a view through someone else’s window. To truly experience Jordan, you have to walk through its welcoming door with your senses leading the way.

The Sights

Jordan’s landscapes are varied and breathtaking. It is a country with endless square miles of sand. It also has bustling cities, rolling hills, fertile fields, rugged mountains, rivers, and the Dead Sea. Photographers and outdoor enthusiasts will find numerous opportunities to enjoy Jordan’s magnificent scenery.

The Sounds

On our first morning in Amman, we took a walk to familiarize ourselves with our surroundings. Traffic noise and birdsong punctuated the city soundscape. What stopped me in my tracks was the call to prayer resonating throughout the city from a transmitter at Amman’s main mosque. The disembodied voice filling the air was so hauntingly beautiful in its reverence, I had to let it envelop me.

The Smells

Soft, subtle fragrances wafted from shops selling spices. Baking bread beckoned us from bakeries while the smell of fried falafel switched on the hunger pangs to the point where resistance was futile.

The Tastes

Jordanian cuisine was a treat for the taste buds. Freshly prepared salads of all varieties, eggplant, pita, hummus, falafel, and other Middle Eastern delights wooed us with distinct flavors, textures, and that special something that makes it all uniquely Jordanian. Confections consisting of seeds, nuts, dates, figs, honey, and sometimes herbs made us realize chocolate isn’t all that big a deal.

From handcrafted clothing and jewelry in markets to ancient carved stone at UNESCO World Heritage sites, let your fingers be a gateway to Jordan’s artistic, cultural, and historic treasures. Oh, and when your fingers are acquainting you with the texture of a camel’s hide, keep away from its head, or you may end up with a face full of camel spit.

4. Jordanians Are Friendly And Charming

My husband and I had met people from Jordan here in the U.S. and found them interesting and personable, but we didn’t have any idea what to expect from Jordanians on their turf. So, the first time one of many strangers said, “Welcome” in a voice that sounded like he meant it, we were dumbfounded.

During our visit, we encountered Jordanians who were kind, generous, interested in our well-being, and delightfully chatty. Of all of Jordan’s many treasures, its people are the most valuable.

Pro Tip: We learned from a friendly cab driver that although free speech is alive and well in Jordan, there is one important caveat. You can criticize the government to your heart’s content, but insulting the king or members of the royal family could get you arrested or even land you in jail.

5. Jordan Is Rich In Not-To-Be-Missed Wonders

My husband and I spent every day of our remarkable Jordan visit drinking in some of the most stunningly beautiful, historically fascinating, and mind-boggling venues in the world. There was far more than we could experience in a week, but we did manage to do the most spectacular sites justice.

The only downside was that all the sites we visited were impossible for someone in a wheelchair or with mobility challenges to navigate. For all the wonders Jordan has to offer, most are accessible only to those who are ambulatory.

Amman Citadel

Perched upon the highest hill in Amman, this site displays structures and artifacts from the Roman, Byzantine, and Muslim periods. A guide isn’t necessary, but we hired one and didn’t regret it.

Jerash

This Roman city was discovered 70 years ago beneath a sandy-covered plain. We spent hours wandering through this incredible outdoor museum gaping at the ruins of ancient structures and marveling at them, surprised that they were there at all.

Madaba 

This town is host to some of the most stunning mosaics in the world. If you only have time to see one mosaic, make it the magnificent Byzantine map which includes ancient Jerusalem, located on the floor of the Greek Orthodox Church.

Petra

One of Jordan’s most famous archeological sites, it is the sight everyone comes to see, and for good reason. We spent three days absorbed in Petra’s breathtaking beauty and historical wonders. We had a superb guide with us the entire time and I recommend you hire one as well. A professional guide will give you insights and information you won’t find on the internet or in guidebooks.

Wadi Rum

We spent the last night of our Jordan visit in a Bedouin camp. The three traditional and delicious meals we enjoyed were just what the doctor ordered after two treks into the desert, bouncing around in the back of a pickup truck, and gazing at extraordinary rock formations and a magnificent sunset.

Pro Tip: Public transportation options are limited, so to get the most out of your time in Jordan, you will need to rent a car.

6. Carefully Research Your Accommodations

When researching accommodations, we were in a somewhat unique position because of my guide dog. For our first two nights in Amman, we found an Airbnb room in the apartment of a woman from France who taught at the international school and loved dogs.

On our first day, we walked to the offices of the Jordan Tourism Board to see if someone could recommend a service dog-friendly accommodation near Petra. We left with a hotel reservation located within walking distance from Petra’s main gate and the services of a phenomenal guide for the three days we would be at the site.

7. Jordan Is A Muslim Country

The national religion of Jordan is Islam, and you will see it practiced openly everywhere you go. You will hear the call to prayer five times a day. You will see men prostrated on prayer rugs in public places. You will see some fully covered women, many wearing hijabs, and others with no head covering at all. You will find many businesses closed on Friday, Islam’s holy day. If all this seems strange, remember what you see is entirely normal for the people of Jordan.

How To Be A Respectful Tourist

Although the majority of Jordanians are deeply religious, they are not hostile to non-Muslims. We found people we met happy to answer questions about their beliefs, and we learned a lot.

A Little Consideration Goes A Long Way

The first time we saw several men near the entrance of a building engaged in prayer, we weren’t sure what to do. So, we walked quietly past them and continued on our way. We got it right, the next time we encountered a similar scene, we felt comfortable knowing the correct thing to do.

Use Common Sense In How You Dress

Modesty in dress is important in Jordan, especially for women. This doesn’t mean you have to be covered from head to toe, but leave the tank tops, mini skirts, and short shorts at home. Also, pack a head scarf and a shawl to cover bare arms when visiting a mosque.

Pro Tip: Remember you are a guest. The Jordanian people are deeply committed to religious and family values. They welcome those who want to share their country’s diverse beauty and rich history. Show respect and interest in them and their culture, and your enjoyment of Jordan will increase tenfold.

Qatar is a small nation on the Arabian Peninsula; it’s nestled on the Persian Gulf and borders Saudi Arabia. It’s a very wealthy country that is a growing tourist destination. In fact, Qatar is set to become the first Arab nation to host the FIFA World Cup in November of 2022.

If you’re planning a vacation to the middle eastern country, be sure to dedicate at least a day to its pretty and modern capital of Qatar, Doha. Here’s what to see and do while you’re there.

1. Take A City Tour

Those who just have a long layover at Hamad International Airport can take advantage of a great option offered by hometown hero Qatar Airways. With a 6-hour layover, Qatar Airways offers a city tour option, including one with a private chauffeur. Highlights from the area can be enjoyed in that amount of time, so even short-term visitors can experience the city of Doha. Be sure to check out this option if it fits in your travel plans.

For those with more time to spend in the city, there are numerous private tour options available. Additionally, Airbnb’s Doha City Tour is highly rated and lasts 4 hours. You can even combine your city tour with a Dhow boat cruise!

Starting with a city tour can help you get acclimated to the area, see the highlights, and decide where to explore further. It’s always the first thing I do when I visit a new place.

2. Museum Of Islamic Art

Widely considered one of the most striking buildings in Qatar, the Museum of Islamic Art should be on everyone’s Doha itinerary. It was designed by the world-renowned Chinese-American architect I. M. Pei. Architecture buffs might recognize some of Pei’s other designs, like the glass pyramids at the Louvre in Paris, Washington D.C.’s East Building at the National Gallery of Art, and the Contemporary Art Museum of Luxembourg, among many others. The collection includes ceramics, metalwork, glass, textiles, manuscripts, and more spanning 1,400 years of history and multiple continents.

Admission costs about $14. This attraction is conveniently open seven days a week and also includes a gift shop, cafe, library, and park with outdoor sculptures.

History buffs should check out the artifacts and natural history exhibits at the National Museum of Qatar.

3. The Pearl

One of the Middle East’s largest real-estate developments, The Pearl-Qatar is situated on an artificial island in Doha’s West Bay Lagoon district. Its name refers to Qatar’s past as a pearl exporter; the area rests on a former pearl-diving hot spot.

With a mix of residential and commercial properties, the Pearl is very pedestrian-friendly and boasts an extensive system of canals. Publicly accessible spaces like squares and plazas make it an ideal gathering area.

Be sure to find the stunning replica of Venice’s Rialto Bridge in this area for a unique photo op. Give yourself time to discover the vibrant architecture of this district and enjoy the gorgeous Persian Gulf views.

4. Katara Cultural Village

Katara is a cultural village on the eastern coast of Doha, located between the West Bay financial district and The Pearl’s half-moon high-rises. Here, you can explore gorgeous mosques, a Greek-style amphitheater, and art galleries, as well as shops and eateries. There’s also a public beach here.

5. Doha Corniche

With its breathtaking water views, Doha Corniche is a 4-mile promenade is a popular spot to explore some of Doha’s landmarks by foot. It’s also conveniently located adjacent to the Museum of Islamic Art, which makes it a great option for right before or after your museum visit.

The Corniche hugs the shore of Doha Bay, and while it’s pretty all day long, it really impresses at sunset. A visit here would make the perfect end to your day of sightseeing in the Qatari capital.

6. Best Restaurants In Doha

Doha’s diverse dining scene will satisfy even the pickiest of eaters.

Those who want more traditional fare should look out for the national dish, machbus, a combo of meat, rice, and veggies; be aware that this item is sometimes called machboos or kabsa as well. Additionally, Qatar offers great seafood due to its coastal access. Other popular foods include dates, saloona (a spicy, veggie-forward broth), and luqaimat (a divine dessert choice). Many area restaurants offer these Qatari options, so just keep an eye out for them around the city.

A noteworthy dining spot is the modern Chinese restaurant Hakkasan, which has a great cocktail list and is a fine-dining favorite. Other upscale options are Nobu at the Four Seasons and Three Sixty at The Torch, with its famous panoramic views. My personal favorite was the midrange, European-inspired Market by Jean-Georges, which is run by a three-star Michelin chef and resides in the W Doha Hotel.

Those seeking more affordable options should check out the food court at the Villaggio Mall; there, you can expect to pay $10 or less for a great meal.

7. Shopping In Doha

With both traditional markets and upscale malls, the shopping scene in Doha does not disappoint.

Souq Waqif

My absolute favorite part of my trip to the area was roaming around the Souq Waqif. (Souq means “market.”) Located in the city center, this area has been the heart of Doha for years and offers spices, handicrafts, and textiles. The area is also home to an art center, boutique hotels, and tons of restaurant options. Be sure to set aside time to wander the twisting streets, exploring the sights and sounds of the souq.

Villaggio Mall

Like many Arabian tourist spots, Doha has numerous upscale shopping malls that are destinations in and of themselves. One of the most unique is the Villaggio Mall, which features an ice rink and indoor canals with gondolas. This shopping center in West Doha is home to luxe retailers like Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton as well as numerous specialty stores featuring footwear, cosmetics, and more.

The Pearl

The aforementioned Pearl development also boasts plenty of shops, and even the airport is a well-known shopping destination.

8. Luxury Accommodations

Those looking to splurge will be more than pleased with the upscale accommodation offerings in Doha. I enjoyed my stay at the Warwick Doha, a five-star retreat complete with spa, onsite eateries, and a stunning rooftop swimming pool. There’s also a Ritz-Carlton in the city that includes a marina and the Middle East’s largest chandelier.

Visitors looking for a midrange accommodation will delight in the centrally located Marriott. Another spot with a great central location is the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotel. This property is within walking distance of the Pearl, the Museum of Islamic Art, and La Corniche, and it sits in the heart of the main souq.

Travelers who like more space to spread out should consider one of the hundreds of Airbnbs available for rent; Vrbo offers a handful of additional rental options as well.

What To Know Before You Go

With its perennially warm and sunny weather, Doha is a great place to visit at most times of the year. But the summertime, with its high heat and very little rainfall, is not the best time. However, those on a budget might consider a summer getaway, since hotel rates are lower then than during peak season.

Please be aware that Qatar is a majority Muslim nation, so public drunkenness will not be tolerated. Keep your beverage consumption to a reasonable amount. Additionally, to be culturally sensitive, female travelers may choose to cover their hair with a pashmina or shawl, but this is not required, or even expected by most locals. Generally, shoulders and legs should also be covered.

There’s so much to see and do in the Qatari capital. From its luxe shopping experiences to its world-class museums and markets, Doha won’t disappoint the traveler in search of adventure.

Related Reading:

• 9 Amazing Restaurants To Experience In Doha, Qatar
• 7 Amazing Experiences Not To Miss In Qatar
• Everything You Need To Know About Visiting Qatar

The first time I went to Lebanon was by pure chance. I was working for an airline and had booked a staff ticket to Syria. Getting to the airport, I was bumped off the flight to Syria, but the check-in staff put me on the next flight to Beirut, leaving at roughly the same time, instead. So, I found myself in Lebanon, without accommodation, no clue as to where to go, and had to work fast to make my long weekend worthwhile.

Although I am not one for surprises and still haven’t managed to make it to Damascus, this turned out to be a great turn of events that allowed me to discover a country I fell in love with and visited again — on purpose.

Lebanon, in my mind, offers the perfect mix of Mediterranean culture, Arabian traditions, and French flair blended together with a dash of Ottoman and Roman history. Stretched along the Mediterranean coast, where beaches invite you to swim, mountains that call you to go skiing, and cities that lure you to fabulous restaurants and party venues, Lebanon is a wonderful place to experience.

1. Exploring Lebanon’s Multi-Layered History 

Beirut

Lebanon’s capital is showing the ravages countless wars and conflicts have left behind, but a bit like a phoenix, Beirut keeps rising again and again, reworking old scars, fashioning them into new sights. Start at Place d’ Etoile or Nijmeh Square and look around.

Within steps, you’ll find the pretty Saint George Greek Orthodox Church, a Catholic cathedral, the impressive Roman Forum, the Lebanese Parliament, and a little further on, the grand Mohammed Al Amir Mosque, all connected by countless small restaurants and shops. This is the place to come after dark for dinner, as the entire neighborhood comes alive at night.

After a visit to the National Museum and maybe the Sursock Museum — located in a stunning, old villa — during the day, walk along the coastal road, the Corniche to the Pigeon Rocks, which is the symbol of Beirut. Head back through Hamra, along Rue Hamra, to marvel at the old, and sadly often utterly dilapidated, yet achingly beautiful villas.

Later, catch a walking tour that takes you through various neighborhoods, discussing the history, the current problems, and the prospects of change viewed from a local perspective. It can be a little disturbing, but very interesting, and you cannot separate the beautiful Beirut from the problematic Beirut.

Pro Tip: Check into Hotel Albergo, one of the many stunning houses dotted around Beirut, this one renovated into a beautiful, luxurious, and friendly hotel, with a superb roof terrace and (chilly) pool with views. Not cheap, but so worth it.

2. Finding Cats And A Lebanese Legend

Byblos

Byblos, also known as Jbeil, lies some 20 miles north of Beirut and is my favorite spot in Lebanon. It’s home to a sturdy castle, a picture-perfect souk, and a charming fishing harbor where in the morning when the small fishing boats come in, the pier is alive with cats, all waiting for — and receiving — their share of the day’s catch. There is an old town center, and one of my favorite houses ever, the Othman El-Houssami house; it’s simple, but in a perfect location. I would move in tomorrow if only they’d let me.

Despite much history to see, the best thing to do in Byblos is to settle down at Pepe’s Fishing Club with views across the little harbor. Pepe, originally from Mexico, was a legend in the swinging ’60s, playing the party lothario and soon gaining a reputation as one of the most famous playboys in the Middle East. He played host to many celebrities, including heavyweights such as Marlon Brando, and was in his late ’80s when I first met him. Alas, now only the legend and his quirky restaurant remain.

Pro Tip: Stay at the slightly retro Byblos sur Mer hotel, which has the best location: right by the sea.

3. Experiencing Music And History In Spectacular Settings

Baalbek

Baalbek, located in the northern Bekaa Valley close to the Syrian border, has not only the most impressive Roman ruins in Lebanon, but some which push other famous Roman sites right into second place. The most impressive sight is the Temple of Jupiter. Even though only six of the original 54 columns remain, it is an awe-inspiring example of Roman architecture. The scale is simply mind-blowing. And it does not stand alone, but sits on a site filled with ruins that are well worth the nearly 2-hour drive from Beirut. The locals put the ruins to spectacular use during the Baalbeck International Festival, when concerts are given at the very site.

Pro Tip: I stayed in the historic Palmyra Hotel, once a grand old hotel, now somewhat dilapidated. If it still stands, you will need to book yourself into it, for its history and old-world (faded) glamor alone. It is just opposite the temple.

4. Seeing The Cedars Of God

Qadisha Valley

On the way to Baalbek, you drive past the famous cedars of Lebanon, their national tree immortalized on the flag. A small, forested park remains of what must have once been an amazing sight when these gorgeous trees covered the entire region.

Today, only a couple of dozen trees still linger, fiercely protected and dedicated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the surroundings have been turned into a bit of a tourist hotspot with souvenir stands and restaurants lining the street, but a walk through the cedar forest is still a must, and very enjoyable.

Pro Tip: Should you find yourself here in winter, head to the nearby ski slopes for a rather unique experience.

5. Wandering The Traditional Souk

Tripoli

Tripoli is Lebanon’s second city and is located roughly 50 miles north of Beirut. A small and eminently walkable city, there is history at every corner — from the gigantic Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles, a crusader fortress dating to the 11^th century, and the Madrasa Al Qarawiyyin attached to the Grand Mosque, dating to the 13^th century, to leftovers from Phoenician, Ottoman, and Roman occupations. You stumble across something noteworthy at every turn.

My personal favorite bit is the rabbit warren that is the old medieval souk. There are countless alleyways, tiny lanes, and undercover passages that all link up and are filled with stores and stalls that sell you everything you can possibly imagine and then some. Most souks specialize in selling a certain something, such as the Perfumers’ Souk, the Carpet Souk, and the Spice Souk. The clues are generally in the name.

But in between are all the other little stores that allow you to meander, get lost, get found, stop and shop, meander a little more, and repeat for hours, ending up carrying all sorts of new acquisitions.

Pro Tip: Lebanese food is one of my all-time favorite cuisines, and there are plenty of little cheap eateries across the city. For a rather spectacular setting on a large scale, head to Shater Hassan Palace by the sea, where you can eat until you pop.

6. Taking In Views From The Top

Harissa

As you drive from Beirut to Byblos with the Mediterranean on your left and the mountains on your right, you will soon see a rather large statue of the Virgin Mary standing on a mountain top looking out over Jounieh Bay. Our Lady of Lebanon is 28 feet tall, was built in 1904, and guards the Shrine to Our Lady of Lebanon, a Brutalist-style cathedral and holy pilgrimage site visited by both Christians and Muslims.

The mountainside below the shrine is busy with people walking through the park area up to the top, but — much easier — you can take the Teleferique, the cable car, to the top, which allows you stunning views of all sides en route. Once at the top, you can wind your way up higher along Our Lady’s pedestal for even better views.

Pro Tip: Don’t forget to have a little look around the seaside below. There is one good seafood restaurant after the next.

7. Marveling At The Jeita Grotto

Jeita

Jeita Grotto is the largest cave in the Middle East, and, together with the Baatara Waterfall, showcases Lebanon’s natural wonder. In fact, here you get two for the price of one: There are two caves, an upper and a lower cave system connected by a tunnel system. You can reach the absolutely stunning upper cave system by cable car, and enter into a wonderland of stalactites, stalagmites, waterfalls, and grottos, and, in the lower system, which is flooded, a turquoise lagoon, explorable by boat.

While the upper part is truly, truly amazing, the lower part, where you travel around by miniature train — mostly because of the distances involved in this roughly 4-mile-long system — turns into a bit of a tourist circus, with train, boats, a zoo, and various other “attractions” mostly aimed at keeping kids happy. Still, the caves are a natural wonder that should not be missed.

Pro Tip: You can in fact catch the last two points on my list in one simple day trip from Beirut, with the lovely Baatara Waterfall thrown in as well, as they lie quite close to each other, just a few miles outside the capital.

Jerusalem. It had been on our list to visit for so many years. The history. The culture. The origins of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. Thinking about the people who walked the steps in the old city thousands of years ago filled us with wonder.

In more recent times, the conflict between the Palestinians and the Israelis has given us pause. We always wanted to do this trip in a way that would respect the issues, cultures, and history. We took a dual narrative tour with Mejdi Tours. We had two guides — one Palestinian and one Jewish — and were able to delve deeply into the issues and challenges.

Jerusalem is one of those places that everyone should visit at least once in their lifetime. Most people come for the highlights, and we will be listing many of them below. We also spent two additional days soaking in the atmosphere, walking the streets, exploring the old city, and experiencing life in Jerusalem.

Inside The Old City

When we arrived in East Jerusalem, we immediately saw the walls of the city. It took our breaths away. We had to go there immediately to experience it. There is so much to do in the Old City.

1. Experience The Western Wall (Wailing Wall)

The Western Wall is considered by religious Jews to be the original site of King Solomon’s Holy Temple (destroyed by the Romans in 70 C.E.). It was later rebuilt by King Herod and subsequently destroyed again. Today, what is left is the retaining wall that borders the western side of Temple Mount.

As you gaze upon the wall, you will see hundreds of Jewish men and women, fervently rocking and praying. Many insert notes into the cracks of the stones. The men and women are separated by a partition. You may even catch a bar mitzvah ceremony if you come on a Thursday.

Pro Tip: Modest dress is required. There are loaner scarves to cover your shoulders and knees if you should come unprepared. If you arrive at the wrong time, there will be a very long line to get through the metal detectors.

2. Descend Underneath To The Western Wall Tunnels

We were very lucky to book a tour of the tunnels underneath the Western Wall with Kotel Tours. In the mid-19th century, British archaeologists discovered tunnels and arches that supported a bridge leading from the city to Temple Mount. The wall extends several feet below the current ground level. You can touch some of the original limestone used to build the temple in 19 B.C. on the tour.

Pro Tip: The tunnels are only accessible on a guided tour.

3. Admire The Beautiful Temple Mount 

The Dome Of The Rock And Aqsa Mosque

Designated as a UNESCO Heritage site, Temple Mount is the most hotly contested religious site in the world. It is sometimes closed due to unrest.

The Dome of the Rock, the Western Wall, and the Al Aqsa Mosque are all part of the Temple Mount. The iconic golden Dome covering the Islamic shrine can be seen from almost every rooftop in East Jerusalem. The shrine marks that spot where Muhammad ascended to heaven. It was built over the area of the older Jewish temples.

The Al-Aqsa Mosque sits at the other end of the Dome on Temple Mount. Like the temples and shrine, the mosque was destroyed and rebuilt over five historical periods.

Pro Tips: Only Muslims are allowed to go inside the Dome and the Mosque. Others can walk around the outside. Make sure to dress appropriately.

4. Follow The Route Of The Via Dolorosa

Religious pilgrims come to Jerusalem to walk the Via Dolorosa, tracing the steps that were thought to have been taken by Jesus carrying his cross as he was led to be crucified. There are 14 Stations of the Cross, with the first located just after you enter at Lion’s Gate.

Pro Tip: Go early in the morning as many worshippers converge upon this walk, making it hard to navigate the stations due to the narrow and sometimes steep walkways. Follow the medallions that mark the stations along the way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

5. Take A Moment At The Church Of The Holy Sepulchre

Located in the Christian Quarter of the old city, the church is said to have been built on the site where Jesus was crucified, laid to rest, and then rose from the dead. The last four stations of the cross are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Pro Tip: Arrive early or you may encounter long lines of people waiting to enter.

6. Walk The Walls At The Tower Of David Museum

Near the Jaffa Gate is the Tower of David. We had fun climbing up onto the ramparts and exploring the ancient citadel. The walls circling what was the Old City back in the 16th century were restored by Suleiman the Ottoman. There is a light show in the evening.

7. Have Tea In The Arab Quarter

We loved wandering the maze that house the souks (markets) in the Arab Quarter. There are dozens of Palestinian shops specializing in spices, nuts, candies, clothes, and even household items. If tea is not your preferred beverage, try the popular pomegranate juice. Have lunch at one of local places for the best Palestinian kebabs and falafel in Israel. Have a cup of tea and maybe even try a sheesha smoke pipe (sometimes called hookah).

Pro Tip: If you are in Jerusalem on a Saturday, most of the city will be closed to observe the Jewish Sabbath. The Arab quarter, while closed on Friday afternoon, is open on Saturday.

8. Walk Through The Jewish Quarter

Like the Arab quarter, the small and hilly Jewish Quarter has synagogues (Hurva), cafes, restaurants, and museums. We enjoyed visiting the Hurva Synagogue and learning about its history. As we were wandering, we stumbled upon King David’s Tomb and the Cenacle, which some people believe was the location of the Last Supper.

9. Take A Step Back Into Roman History At The Cardo

Experience Roman history in the Cardo, the main thoroughfare used during the Roman time. It runs from the Damascus Gate to the Zion Gate. You won’t miss the Roman columns and the mosaics depicting scenes from the Byzantine period.

10. Visit The Armenian Quarter

Located in the southwestern quadrant of the old city, you will find the Armenian Quarter, established in the fourth century A.D. Dotted with Armenian restaurants, monasteries, and churches, it is the smallest quarter.

11. Shop In The Christian Quarter

Situated in the northwestern corner of the old city, the Christian quarter is built around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Wander and browse for antiques in the shops and stop for ceramic souvenirs.

Sites Just Outside of The Old City

12. Wade Through Hezekiah’s Tunnel In The City Of David

The City of David is an archaeological site just outside the Old City walls. Explore King Hezekiah Tunnel, which is still carrying water (bring a bathing suit and water shoes — the tunnel has knee-deep water).

Pro Tip: You can opt to explore Warren’s Shaft, which was a dry tunnel, instead. This is what we did.

13. Take Time To See The Mount of Olives

The Mount of Olives is an important location for Christians and Jews. According to the New Testament, Jesus ascended to heaven from the Mount of Olives. It has one of the best views overlooking the Old City.

14. Garden Of Gethsemane

Located near the entrance of The Lions’ Gate, the Garden of Gethsemane is said to be the place where Jesus was arrested before his crucifixion. While there, stop by the Church of All Nations. The tomb of the Virgin Mary is across the street.

Sites in Other Parts of Jerusalem (Outside Of East Jerusalem)

15. Pay Tribute To The Holocaust At Yad Vashem

Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust Remembrance Center, is a memorial to all who were lost in the Holocaust. It is impossible to understand Israel without letting in the horror of Hitler’s attempt to exterminate the Jews. The Children’s Memorial made us weep. The museum is staggering and a deeply emotional experience. Make sure to spend some time acknowledging the Righteous Among the Nations — people who risked their lives to save Jews.

Pro Tip: Leave some quiet time for processing after Yad Vashem.

16. Israel Museum

The Dead Sea Scrolls are housed at the Israel Museum in the Shrine of the Book, a unique white dome that was specially built as a repository for the Dead Sea Scrolls. There is a model of Old Jerusalem as well as a sculpture garden and art galleries.

17. Go To The Mahane Yehuda Market Twice

A busy working market during the day, this is a place you can go for typical Israeli food. In the evenings, it is very lively. When the market stalls are closed for Shabbat and the gates are down, you will find portraits of men and women, Jewish and Palestinian, young and old adorning the lowered gates.

More Tips For Visiting Jerusalem

Much of the city shuts down after sundown for Shabbat, including all public transport. Palestinian businesses are closed on Friday evenings but open on Saturdays.

There are many steps that go up and down the ancient limestone paved roads of Old Jerusalem. We recommend wearing good supportive walking shoes.

Explore the local restaurants inside the city walls and you will be rewarded with wonderful meals and experiences. Make sure to bring cash — many of the shops do not take credit cards.

If you take a tour, you’ll see many of the highlights. Leave some time after your tour to explore on your own, get lost, and become enchanted by Jerusalem.

For more inspiration, consider

• 15 Key Tips For Visiting The Bahai Gardens In Haifa, Israel
• Our 12 Favorite Places We Visited In Israel

Some places can be built up so much in your mind before you go that they don’t meet your expectations. Not so with Israel. There is something that will excite everyone from any religious background and any kind of interest — food, culture, history, nature, arts, architecture, or any other interest you might have.

Israel has been on our travel list for many years. Originally, we planned on renting a car and driving through the whole country. It’s about the size of New Jersey. We even had the whole trip planned out 3 years ago, but one of us (Sue) ended up having an opportunity to go to Antarctica instead.

This time around, we decided that going with a tour group would be a better idea. As we started our research, we came across an interview with the owner of Mejdi Tours — a company that specializes in dual narrative experiences. Seeing Israel from the perspectives of both the Israelis and Palestinians was important to us.

During our 2 weeks in Israel, we went to Jerusalem, Akko, Haifa, the Golan Heights, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Galilee and Tiberias, Caesarea Maritima, Ramallah, Masada, the Dead Sea, and Tel Aviv. We could write extensively about all these places, but we will try to narrow this down to the top 12 highlights.

1. Jerusalem

Marvel At Views Of Old Jerusalem

If we could only go to one place in Israel, it would be Jerusalem. We spent 6 nights in Jerusalem just 100 meters from the gates of the Old City. From our hotel room in East Jerusalem, we could see the sun setting over the Old City and the Dome of the Rock.

We wandered the streets (Arab, Jewish, Armenian, Christian Quarters) and the Via Dolorosa and saw the splendor of the Temple Mount. The views of Old Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives took our breath away. We had the opportunity to see the Western (Wailing) Wall from the top and through the tunnels underneath.

A visit to Yad Vashem is a must-do in Jerusalem if you want to understand some of the history and forces that led to the creation of Israel. It has been a place that we wanted to spend time at not only to pay tribute to the lives lost but also to acknowledge the Righteous Among the Nations who risk their lives to save Jews. The Children’s Memorial at Yad Vashem had us in tears. There is much more to do in Jerusalem — the Israeli Museum, Yehuda Mahane Market, the City of David, food tours, and many other things.

Pro Tip

If you only have a short amount of time in Israel, you can base yourself in Jerusalem and take day trips to Bethlehem, Masada, and Tel Aviv.

2. Bethlehem

Go To The Birthplace Of Jesus

Situated in the West Bank and in Palestinian territory, Bethlehem is the biblical birthplace of Jesus. The grotto where Jesus is believed to have been born is inside the 6th-century Church of Nativity. Many people go to Bethlehem to see the murals on the separation wall (it encloses the occupied territory where Palestinians live) and Banksy’s Walled Off Hotel and Museum.

Seeing both is important for understanding the conflict and the experience of Palestinians. In addition, we went to the Aida Refugee Camp with our Palestinian guide (which can only be done with a guide).

3. Masada

Wander Among The Ruins

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Masada is historically important both for ancient Jewish history and modern Zionism. An ancient fortification and palace built during Herodian times, Masada has breathtaking views of the desert and was the site of a famous resistance in A.D. 73 against the Romans.

Pro Tip

You can either hike up the mountain or take a cable car. Go early in the morning if you want to hike.

3. The Dead Sea

Float In The Salty Waters

Floating in the Dead Sea is a unique experience. It is bordered by Jordan to the east and Israel to the west (the name West Bank comes from its location on the West Bank of the Jordan River, which is a tributary of the Dead Sea). The Jordan River is important to many Christian pilgrims.

4. Akko

Walk The Crusaders’ Footsteps

Akko, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the oldest port cities in the world. Built by the Crusaders, it is filled with tunnels, citadels, mosques, and Turkish baths — all influenced by the Romans, Ottomans, Mamelukes, Byzantines, and the British. Take time to lose yourself in the maze that is the souk. We did not have time to see the Bahai Gardens in Akko and regret it.

Pro Tip

It is very easy to catch the train from Tel Aviv or Haifa to Akko. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the old city from the station. Make sure to get a map at the visitors center — you will need it. 

5. Haifa

Experience The Beautiful Bahai Gardens

Just an hour’s train ride from Tel Aviv, Haifa is an underappreciated stop in Israel. Home to the exquisite Bahai Gardens, Haifa also has the Stella Maris Monastery with the grotto of Elijah. You can also eat and shop at the German Colony at the foot of Mount Carmel. Near the train station is a wonderful mural of a peace train by the Broken Fingaz Crew, one of the most well-known street art collectives in Israel.

6. Caesarea Maritima

Admire King Herod’s Palace And More

Located halfway between Tel Aviv and Haifa, the port city of Caesarea Maritima was an engineering marvel built by King Herod on the Mediterranean coast. Today, it is a national archaeological park that is well-excavated and preserved. You will see the amphitheater, remains of a hippodrome, frescoes, pillars, an aqueduct, King Herod’s palace, and a museum.

Pro Tip

You may want to join a tour or rent a car and drive yourself as it is not easy to get to Caesarea by public transport. 

7. The Sea Of Galilee (Or Lake Tiberias)

Visit Nearby Mount Beatitudes

The Sea of Galilee, also known as Lake Tiberias, is the second-lowest lake in the world. It is an important stop for Christian pilgrims to Israel. Nearby Mount Beatitudes is the site where Jesus was believed to have delivered the sermon on the mount. The Tomb of Maimonides, an important Jewish philosopher, and scholar in the Middle Ages, is in Tiberias.

8. Nazareth

See Basilica Of The Annunciation

Of religious significance to the Christians, the Basilica of the Annunciation is believed to be where the angel Gabriel appeared to the Virgin Mary and delivered the news of the birth of Jesus Christ. You will also find Joseph’s carpentry workshop in what is today St. Joseph’s Church located behind the basilica.

9. Ramallah

Visit Yasser Arafat’s Tomb Museum

Located just 10 miles from Jerusalem, Ramallah is the de facto administrative capital of the Palestinian National Authority. We went to the Yasser Arafat Museum and Tomb in Ramallah. Largely occupied by Muslim Palestinians, this Central West Bank city is also the cultural capital with cafes and bars. We took a food tour with a local Palestinian blogger and sampled warm pitas, freshly made falafels, and wonderful kebabs and spices.

11. Tel Aviv

Enjoy The Culture

To be honest, since we are more interested in ancient history than modern, Tel Aviv was not the top city for us in Israel. That said, if you love modern skyscrapers, beautiful white sand beaches, and eclectic neighborhoods, Tel Aviv is the place to go. The city has more than 4,000 Bauhaus buildings, resulting in its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In addition, there are many historical sites related to the founding of Israel in Tel Aviv. We recommended going to Rothschild Boulevard and the Itzhak Rabin Memorial. At the memorial, you’ll have the opportunity to see a video about his assassination.

The Carmel Market is a lively place to eat and shop. If you love street art like us, go to the top level of the old Tel Aviv Bus Station to see murals by local artists. The Neve Zedek neighborhood is great for lunch and people-watching. In addition, there is a thriving LGBTQ community. Make sure to stop at Otello — they serve one of the best gelatos in Tel Aviv.

12. Jaffa

Find The Clock Tower

Meeting at the Clock Tower is the thing to do when visiting the Old City of Jaffa (in Tel Aviv). Wander the area and then head towards the beach. You will enjoy the Mediterranean ocean breezes as you climb to the top of Abrasha Park. Poke around the antique stores, craft shops, and the flea market. Duck into St. Peter’s Church for a cool respite.

Pro Tips

• Decide whether you want to travel on your own in Israel or join a tour group. There are advantages to both.
• Trains are very efficient in Israel. The Rav-Kav card and phone app allow you to board all trains and buses.
• The express train from the airport to Tel Aviv or Jerusalem is cheap and fast. Sundays Mornings are the first day of the work week and trains are crowded.
• Israeli businesses, government offices, and public transport shut down for the sabbath from sundown Friday until Saturday late afternoon.
• Israel has Gett, not Uber.
• Masada, the Dead Sea, and Caesarea are hot and sunny. Good walking shoes, sunscreen, hats, and water are essential.

The Bahai Gardens in Haifa are a unique experience in Israel. Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, the Gardens are one of the holiest sites for people who practice the Bahai religion. While it is a religious destination for the Bahai faithful, its tranquility and geometric beauty are breathtaking for anyone who visits.

The Gardens are comprised of 19 terraces built into the steep hill of Mount Carmel. These gardens surround the Shrine of the Báb (Siyyid ʻAlí-Muhammad of Shiraz), the founder, or herald, of the Bahai faith. He was executed in Iran in 1850 and his remains were secretly brought from Iran and placed in the Bahai Gardens.

The concept of the Bahai Gardens was to create tranquility around the religious buildings and to insulate the Gardens from the noise and activity of Haifa. They are laid out in a sacred and spiritual manner, as well as a unique and functional pattern. Manicured hedges and lawns, fountains, and beautiful flowers delight at every turn. There are different themed Gardens, and the use of sunlight, shade, and water are evident throughout.

1. Make Time To Go Into The Gardens

Many tour groups that stop in Haifa on the way to Galilee or Nazareth only stop for travelers to take photos of the iconic views from outside of the Gardens. These views are stunning but to truly experience them, you need to spend some time inside. Having peace and tranquility in the midst of the hustle and bustle of travel can give you a new perspective. We arrived a day early so that we could walk through and experience the Gardens.

2. Book A Tour In Advance

The best way to see the Gardens and learn more about them is to take a free, 60-minute guided tour. On the tour, you will walk through several levels of the terraces. If the Shrine of the Báb is open, you can closely approach it and take photos. We couldn’t book a tour at the last minute and had to do a self-guided walk through several terraces. You’ll need to book a tour well in advance of your trip. The Gardens and Shrine are closed for religious observances and other activities throughout the year.

3. Taking A Self-Guided Tour

If you are unable to book a tour, all is not lost. You can do a self-guided tour like us, but you will only be able to enter at three specific terraces: the very top (the balcony located on Yefe Nof Street), in the middle (the main entrance on Hatzionut Avenue), and at the bottom (German Colony Plaza at HaGefen Street). It was a lovely experience to walk through some of the terraces and to see the geometric and beautiful gardens at our own pace. You’ll be able to see the Shrine from a distance, but you won’t be able to take a very good photo of it. The gardens are free to enter.

4. Start From The Top Balcony For A Self-Guided Tour

The Gardens have about 600 steps from top to bottom. There are three main entrances positioned at different vertical levels of these terraces: the balcony, the main entrance, and the German Colony Plaza (lowest level).

We started at the balcony (top) and worked our way down as we were staying in a hotel nearby. If you’re staying in central Haifa, you’ll probably start from the German Colony. We would recommend taking the bus or a car to the balcony and working your way down.

People on a self-guided tour are allowed to explore only the Gardens within a few levels of the gates. You will not be allowed to walk down the terraces all the way from the balcony to the bottom level. If you enter the gardens on the balcony, you must exit only through the same gate that you entered. There is a security checkpoint for your bags at every entrance.

5. Be Prepared To Walk — A Lot

There is a lot of walking involved in seeing the Bahai Gardens. It is worth the effort, although, good walking shoes are a must. The peace, tranquility, and geometric shapes of the Gardens are unlike many other gardens that you’ve seen. We did not see many places to sit down during our walk.

6. Inquire About An Accessible Tour

With 600 steps, paved flagstones, and graveled paths, the vertical Gardens are not easily accessible. There is an accessible tour for people with mobility issues and other needs. We were told that there are limited viewing opportunities from an accessible terrace. Book well in advance to secure tickets for this tour.

7. Make Sure To Dress Modestly

The Gardens are a holy site. Make sure to cover your shoulders and knees as a sign of respect. You’ll also need to bring sunscreen, a hat, and water, especially if you are visiting in the late spring or summer when it is very hot.

8. Different Times Give Different Views

We recommend visiting the Gardens at different times of the day. On the balcony, you’ll have excellent views of the Bay of Haifa, and on a clear day, you can see all the way to Akko (Acre). We loved standing on the balcony, looking down at the beautiful, terraced Gardens below us. Dusk is also a spectacular time to see the Gardens enshrouded in the golden evening glow of the sun setting for the day.

9. Book A Hotel On HaNassi Boulevard

We stayed at the Haifa Bay View Hotel only steps from the top balcony entrance of the Bahai Gardens. We were able to see the iconic top view of the Gardens every day. We started our own self-guided tour by taking the top balcony entrance. We were able to walk part-way into the Gardens to view and take photos.

10. If You Have Limited Time, Start At The Main Gate

We also walked down the hill and entered the Gardens at the main gate on Hatzionut Avenue. It was about a 20-minute walk from the balcony level. At this entrance, there is much of the Bahai Gardens to view, as well as bathroom facilities. If you are short on time, the middle terrace is a priority if you want to walk through the Gardens. The top and bottom entrances are more for the iconic views and photos.

11. Make Sure To Catch The View From The Germany Colony

After exploring the main entrance (middle terrace near the Spiritual Shrine and Dome), we returned to the gate and proceeded to walk down the hill to the German Colony Plaza entrance. It was about another 20-minute walk. The Germany Colony Plaza has a breathtaking view up to the Shrine. This location is at the bottom of Mount Carmel. You can stay in that area for morning and evening views of the Gardens.

12. Take A Break In The Local Sculpture Garden

Between the balcony entrance and main entrance is a small garden with sculptures by Ursula Malbin. We recommend stopping there for a short break if you are doing a self-guided tour. There are benches for sitting and some sculptures to admire. The entrance to the sculpture garden can be easily missed if you are not specifically looking out for it while walking downhill.

13. Consider Taking The Bus Between Terraces

If you are doing a self-guided tour, you may want to take a bus down to Ben Gurion Boulevard instead of walking as we did. While the walk downhill is on a concrete pavement, it is long and winding, and on a hot day, can take quite a bit to navigate. There are public bus stops near the entry gates.

14. Download The Moovit App

We recommend downloading the Moovit app for the local buses, trains, and subway. It is a very efficient way to get around Israel and helpful for navigating Haifa since the city was built on a hill. It is also wise to purchase the Rav-Kav card — the Israeli transportation card — when in Israel as an easy way to get around using public transport.

15. Take A Walk Along Louis Promenade

One of the best views from the top of Mount Carmel is the overlook at Louis Promenade. From our hotel, we would walk along the Louis Promenade and sit in the shade of the Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art before meandering to the gate at the balcony entrance of the Bahai Gardens.

We really enjoyed our visit to the Bahai Gardens. They are one of the most spectacular and unique creations. And if symmetry and color appeal to your aesthetic senses, you will especially enjoy the Gardens even more.

Check out our most recent Israel content, including:

• Why Breakfast Is Key When Visiting Israel, And My 4 Favorite Places To Indulge
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• Why It Was Important We Visited This One Place In Israel

When visiting Israel, Ira and I look forward to starting our day with hearty, nutrient-dense breakfasts that are customarily included in the price of a guest room. These onsite restaurants are a morning mecca for foodies.

Larger hotels and resorts offer elaborate buffets showcasing an assortment of bakery goods, dairy products, fish, egg entrees like shakshuka, Israeli specialty items, a variety of salads made from local produce, and halva, a Middle Eastern specialty with a fudge-like consistency often made from sesame and sugar.

Labels in both English and Hebrew often identify the items and sometimes single out gluten-free, sugar-free, vegan, and vegetarian options. After traveling throughout the world, we rarely have experienced anything that comes close to the complexity of an Israeli buffet breakfast.

Lunch Is Secondary To An Engaging Itinerary

Since our private tours always maximize our time to experience a cross section of attractions in multiple regions throughout Israel, our daily itineraries usually have minimal time for a lunch or snack break.

Consuming a multi-course, healthy breakfast is the easiest way to meet the demands of these hectic travel days. Israeli guides sometimes stop for samples of local foods or small snacks. These reenergizing nosh breaks are welcome. However, our preference is to sample a cross section of breakfast foods rather than worrying about where we are going to stop for lunch.

Jewish Sabbath Restrictions

When traveling in Israel, visitors need to be aware that restaurants observing the Jewish laws pertaining to the Sabbath will have limited food service from sunset on Friday to sunset on Saturday. In these restaurants, it will be possible to order coffee or tea, but a cappuccino will have to wait.

Food ordered during this time will be prepared prior to the start of the Sabbath and kept warm until the items are served. While hotel restaurants will remain open with limited service, many restaurants close during the Sabbath.

To gain an appreciation for what you can sample, I will share what Ira and I experienced during our partially hosted Israel My Way tour, which included stays at the Mamilla Hotel in Jerusalem, Mitzpe Hayamim in the Galilee, The Norman in Tel Aviv, and the Beresheet in the Mitzpe Ramon. The three larger hotels offer a comprehensive buffet, while the boutique hotel had a tailored menu with traditional breakfast service. All opinions are my own.

1. Mamilla Hotel

In Jerusalem’s conveniently located Mamilla Hotel, the breakfast buffet is in the Ballroom on the lower level of the hotel. Oshri Zafrani, the head chef, relies on his decades of cooking experience in the Israel Defense Forces and in restaurants and bakeries throughout Israel to create the morning buffet experience.

When asked about the buffet, he stated “The main goal is to give variety to our hotel guests. This way, every diner will have no difficulties choosing food.” As we walked from station to station, we saw examples of how the restaurant accommodates common allergies and food trends. Vegans and vegetarians will likewise not be disappointed.

What To Eat At The Ballroom Restaurant Buffet

I requested a well-done version of the restaurant’s shakshuka. Their adaptation of this popular regional dish is served in individual pans that include poached eggs in a tomato sauce made with ripe tomatoes cooked with roasted peppers and generous amounts of fresh garlic. I paired this Middle Eastern favorite with an individual portion of vegetarian quiche.

Even though I rarely eat cheese, I couldn’t resist sampling some of the local cheeses which are specially made for the hotel at boutique dairies. However, most of my remaining selections came from the fresh vegetable sections. Noteworthy options included the roasted seasonal vegetables, beet salad with citrus slices, and a root salad tossed with an Asian vinaigrette.

When asked to single out the buffet’s most popular dishes, Chef Zafrani mentioned quiches, shakshuka, made-to-order omelets, Israeli salads, Belgian waffles, cheesecake, and breakfast pastries. Ira and I deviated slightly from our daily diet by tasting some of the whole grain breads that were baked at nearby bakeries, as well as a handful of breakfast pastries made in-house with several different flours.

We also took a few bites of the overly sweet jachnun, a Yemenite-Israeli dish traditionally eaten on Saturday morning. Unlike other dishes that are baked for a relatively short period, this food is baked throughout the night in a low-temperature oven. Chef Zafrani shared the ingredients — water, flour, butter, salt, sugar, and honey. After our first day, we often indulged in one of our favorite Israeli treats, halva.

2. Mitzpe Hayamim

When we traveled north to the Galilee, we stayed several nights at the Mitzpe Hayamim, a luxury resort with walking paths and gardens along with views of the Sea of Galilee and the adjacent countryside. With an onsite dairy and organic farm, Ira and I were assured to get the freshest farm-to-table ingredients.

The waitstaff told us that the dairy products — from milk to hard cheese — came from the resort’s farm and that the menu adapted to the seasonal vegetables grown and harvested onsite. With a shorter growing season and lifespan, the fruits are often made into jams or sauces. Whatever is not produced onsite is locally sourced.

Ronen Woldman’s domestic cooking experience, along with his experience at international restaurants run by Michelin star winners Alain Ducasse and Gordon Ramsay, prepared him to successfully take on the role of executive chef at this incredible hotel.

After returning home, Chef Woldman hopes that Mitzpe Hayamim guests “will remember the wonderful freshness of the resort’s cuisine. We pride ourselves in using fresh products — no cans, sauces, colorings, etc.”

What To Try At The Mitzpe Hayamim Restaurant Buffet

Ira and I were both attracted to a delicious herb omelet that was baked in an open oven, a local tradition. While corresponding with Chef Woldman, I learned that the secret to this tasty omelet was the generous amounts of cream whipped into the eggs. Had I known this fact, I may not have indulged. Trying to adhere to a particular diet while selecting items at a buffet is not always possible. In retrospect, I should have asked more questions before making selections.

We also tasted Mitzpe Hayamim’s version of shakshuka as well as items found on their rotating msabbaha station. These entrees were made of legumes, usually chickpeas, lentils, or lima beans. After the beans are thoroughly cooked, they are hand ground with a mortal and pestle. Generous amounts of lemon juice, garlic, and tahini are subsequently added.

3. The Norman

In Tel Aviv, our stay at The Norman offered a boutique hotel experience in the heart of the city. For breakfast, we dined at the shaded outdoor terrace where we selected items from a limited menu. Eight a-la-carte entrees — ranging from a bowl of granola with berries and yogurt to eggs Benedict — are available for breakfast.

What To Order From The Breakfast Menu At The Norman

The a-la-Norman is the best choice for guests who want a more filling start to the day. For a set price, guests are served a bread basket filled with a slice of sourdough bread, a Parker bun, a butter croissant, and an herb pastry along with a choice of scrambled eggs, poached eggs, a custom omelet, or three versions of shakshuka.

This selection comes with a cheese plate, an assortment of roasted peppers, some olives, a portion of quinoa tabbouleh, and a cherry tomato salad. A choice of hot and cold beverages is also included.

While a simple breakfast menu cannot compare to the multitude of foods presented in a buffet, there is a considerable value associated with being served quality foods on a lovely outdoor patio.

4. Beresheet Resort

To fully appreciate the magnitude of the Makhtesh Ramon in the Negev Desert, the world’s largest erosion crater, we stayed at the Beresheet Resort in Mitzpe Ramon. The onsite Rosemarine Restaurant offered the largest presentation during this trip, and like our experiences at the Mamilla Hotel and Mitzpe Hayamim, we had the option to sit inside or outside.

At the end caps of long countertops, bread baskets are filled with an assortment of items, prepared elsewhere and then later baked onsite.  All the pastries and sweets are made in the hotel while the halva is provided by an outside purveyor. As we scoped out the buffet, it was challenging to narrow down our choices because there was an abundance of hot and cold dishes made with seasonal produce, dairy products, and fish.

What To Taste At The Rosemarine Restaurant Buffet

Fresh vegetables and an assortment of cheeses were combined in several enticing salads. Top choices included the Capreza salad and the roasted peppers with feta cheese salad. Our love for fish was fulfilled with the home pickled gravlox and smoked fish. We paired the fish with challah, a traditional braided egg bread baked for the Jewish Sabbath and holidays. 

While we both ordered customized vegetarian omelets on Friday morning, the restrictions of the Jewish Sabbath prevented us from selecting any made-to-order entrees the next day. Our breakfast finale included tiny samples of the unique sweet potato quiche made with caramelized onions, a potpourri of items from the large vegan dessert counter, and a small slice of kanafeh, a traditional Middle Eastern dessert. 

Pro Tip

Since it will be hard to resist returning for additional helpings, pace yourself so you aren’t late for your tour. If you have diet restrictions, don’t be shy. Whenever possible, ask questions about the ingredients. Restaurants that are certified kosher will either serve meat or dairy dishes and will not have pork or shellfish on the menu.

With an abundance of natural beauty, the Mediterranean coastline, and a bounty of cultural riches, Israel offers an exciting bucket list of things to explore in a country that lives and breathes history. Israel is a land of contrasts from meaningful holy sites and the bustling city of Tel Aviv to deep-rooted archaeological sites in the desert and skyscrapers reaching great heights. It is tradition and the past; it is the future. 

I had an opportunity to visit Israel as a guest of the Israel Ministry of Tourism, but all opinions are my own.

1. Explore Jerusalem, The ‘City Of Gold’

The holy city of Jerusalem beckons with the Western Wall, beautiful churches, and historic mosques, meaningful to three world religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. This 3,000-year-old city seamlessly blends the ancient with the contemporary, creating an awe-inspiring travel experience.

The focal point of Jerusalem is the Western Wall, the last remnant of the Second Temple, which was destroyed in 70 A.D. and attracts worshippers from around the globe. They come to meditate at this sacred site and place notes with their deepest prayers into the cracks between the stones. When the notes fill the wall, they are collected and buried according to Jewish law.

The tunnels beneath the Western Wall continue to be excavated, peeling away layers and layers of history. If you’ve visited the tunnels before, go again because something new is always being discovered. Take a tour and listen to an archeologist share Jerusalem’s rich past. Then go further underground and be amazed by the cisterns, large stone arches, and artifacts that tell the story of ancient times.

Beyond imagination is a new synagogue built under the Temple Mount, within the Western Wall tunnels complex, that took 12 years and $50 million to build. Replete with a stunning metal ark that holds the Torah Scrolls, the synagogue is a joy to behold. Recently reopened, the synagogue is available for sunrise prayer at 6 a.m. and other services.

Another fascinating venue is the new virtual reality tour of the Second Temple at the Western Wall Plaza. I donned special goggles and all of a sudden, I was taken back 2,000 years with a 360-degree perspective of the temple as it stood, filled with worshippers. “Wow” is right.

Near the Old City stands the Tower of David, also called the Jerusalem Citadel. This ancient fortress is also a museum, currently being renovated with new ramps and elevators for greater accessibility. They are also adding impactful new exhibits about the city’s multi-faceted history. We took the Ramparts Walk around the walls and were rewarded with breathtaking views of the Old City. Interesting to me were the narrow openings which allowed arrows to be shot.

At night, the Tower of David screens a spectacular sound and light show against the backdrop of the ancient structure. Powerful images, original music, and video take viewers on a remarkable journey through Jewish history.

Dine At Andalusia

Kikar Hamusica (Music Square) is a lively place to see and be seen. We dined at Andalusia, a kosher tapas restaurant in a delightful setting. The menu combines traditional Spanish cuisine with modern Israeli tastes. I devoured the potato crisps, artichoke salad, and vegetarian paella.

Pro Tip: Dress modestly with your shoulders covered while in Israel out of respect to the religious sites you will visit.

2. Visit Tel Aviv, A Vibrant, Bustling City With Exquisite Beaches 

Tel Aviv is new in comparison to Jerusalem. Established in 1909, it’s called the “White City” for its substantial number of beautiful Bauhaus/International-style buildings. Constructed in the 1930s by a group of German architects fleeing persecution, these buildings remain classic hotels and apartments. Admire them as you stroll through the tree-lined Rothschild Boulevard, along with coffee kiosks and chess tables. With 8 miles of gorgeous beach along the Mediterranean, look for new luxury hotels springing up like The David Kempinski and Oriental Mandarin.

Plan to visit ANU, the newly remodeled Museum of the Jewish People and now the largest Jewish museum in the world. Discover exhibits of Jewish identity and pop culture, and learn about Jewish communities throughout history. My favorite exhibits were their collection of 21 synagogue models from around the world, highlighting Jewish life; and Heroes – Trailblazers of the Jewish People. Stand in awe of the menorah from the destroyed Great Synagogue in Warsaw, returned to Israel after the Holocaust by a non-Jew who hid it for safekeeping.

The nearby Old Port of Jaffa boasts a much longer history dating back to ancient times. Today, you’ll see small fishing vessels going out to sea and reeling in fresh fish for the local restaurants. Take a walk around the port to get a real sense of history. Visit the lively Flea Market area for unique arts and crafts. I brought home really cool, lemon-smelling soaps in the shape of a hamsa.

With so much new construction going on, the joke in Israel is that the national bird is the crane. But the truth is, Tel Aviv and areas north are a bird-watching paradise with many tours available to watch the migration in spring and fall.

Dine At PUAA In Jaffa

This fabulous restaurant in the Flea Market offers an eclectic array of Mediterranean cuisine in a homey, retro atmosphere. We dined outside, starting with fried cauliflower, which was outstanding, followed by pumpkin dumplings, rich and savory.

3. Shop In Unique Open-Air Fruit And Crafts Markets

Israel is known for its colorful open-air markets, most notably the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv and Machne Yehuda in Jerusalem. Here, you can shop for Israeli foods, candies, spices, art, jewelry, and more. The Carmel Market opened in 1920 and is one of the most popular places to visit in Tel Aviv. Machne Yehuda is considered the heart of Jerusalem for its authentic flavors and aromas. Sample a variety of fresh fruits and candy. Warning: One taste will have you wanting more. Be on the lookout for halva. It’s made from sesame seeds and mixed with sugar or honey to create a delectable treat. You will see slabs of halva stacked up high with added toppings of pistachios, cranberries, poppy seeds, and other nuts. There is nothing quite like it. Other delicacies include olives, hummus, and dried fruits.

4. Float In The Dead Sea

Located in the Judean desert of southern Israel lies the Dead Sea — the lowest place on earth and the saltiest body of water in the world. You can’t actually swim in it. But just lay back, relax, and voila, you’re floating! For others, part of the fun is packing the mineral-rich mud from the Dead Sea all over their bodies. Don’t worry, there are showers on the beach to rinse it all off. When the substance comes clean, your skin will feel soft and supple. You’ll also find plenty of luxury hotels and spas dotting the Dead Sea, where you can make relaxation and rejuvenation your top priority.

5. Take A Jeep Tour Of A Crater At Mitzpe Ramon 

Mitzpe Ramon is located in the heart of the Negev, offering a range of unique desert experiences. Stargazing, sleeping in a Bedouin camp, and paying respects to the graves of Israeli Prime Minister David Ben Gurion and his wife, Paula, are just a few. Considered the largest erosion crater in the world, Mitzpe Ramon is not just one crater, it’s hundreds of moon-like craters lining the dry, desert terrain. I had the chance to tour Mitzpe Ramon in a Jeep, spotting rare wildlife, beautiful rock formations, and a colorful landscape. As we ascended and descended the bumps, we saw Ibex — graceful, goat-like animals running through the craters. At night, we watched the stars come out in the desert, recognized as the first International Dark Sky park in the Middle East. We sat quietly around a fire as Alen, our guide, pointed out the constellations and zodiac signs. The highlight was looking through his high-powered telescope and seeing Saturn, rings and all. In the quiet of the night, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility, at one with the desert. 

Consider spending a few days at a Bedouin camp like Kfar Hanokdim, a desert resort near Masada. Here, you can enjoy a taste of Bedouin life as you sleep in authentic tents or “sukkahs” and hear stories about their nomadic lifestyle. Sit around a bonfire, ride a camel, feast on Middle East delicacies, and savor Turkish coffee. You’ll really get a chance to recharge as you disconnect from modern-day life.

Note: Israeli Astronaut Ilan Ramon, who died in the 2003 Space Shuttle Columbia accident, changed his name from Wolferman to Ramon during his military service to sound more like an Israeli.

6. Taste The Fruits Of The Wine At Boutique Wineries

Israel has been making wine since biblical times. You can taste the fruits of the vines at over 300 smaller boutique wineries as well as larger, commercial ones. I stopped by Jerusalem Vintage Winery, the only winery in Jerusalem. Grown in three different areas of Israel, the winery is known for producing award-winning rosé, The Windmill Project’s petit Verdot, and chardonnay. You can’t miss the iconic Montefiore Windmill where the tasting room is located. Enjoy several wine-tasting packages with an optional charcuterie plate of grapes, cheeses, and crackers. I spent a delightful afternoon sipping wine and munching on cheeses, all with exquisite views overlooking the city.

7. Climb Masada

This ancient fortress in the Judean desert served as a refuge for the Jewish people after the destruction of the Temple. Holding the Romans off for almost 3 years, the remaining zealots chose to kill each other rather than submit to capture and slavery. Before or after, stop at the Masada Museum, where you can watch a video and get a better understanding of its history. Climbing Masada, one of Israel’s top attractions, is best done at sunrise before the heat gets too intense. The most popular trail is the Snake Path, about 1.2 miles long, but there’s an easier route via cable car. Once you’re at the top, you can explore remnants of the Northern Palace built by King Herod and the largest building on Masada, as well as ritual baths, an ancient synagogue, and a cistern. Take the cable car back down and enjoy the exquisite views of the Dead Sea and Moab Mountains.

Pro Tip: Make sure to bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat. The area is completely open and there are no shady areas.

Put Israel on your bucket list this year and come away with the experience of a lifetime.

Related Reading:

• 5 Reasons You’ll Love This Unique Cooking Class In Israel
• The Unique Culinary Tour Not To Miss In Jerusalem
• 9 Things To Know Before Visiting Captivating Tel Aviv

Working with a private Israel tour operator, Israel My Way, my husband and I were able to create a personalized trip with a cross-section of places to experience throughout Israel. Returning to places like Jerusalem’s Western Wall and the Shuk, we automatically added the mystical city of Tzfat (also known as Safed) and the Makhtesh Ramon in the Negev to our list. We also requested places that were not included on previous tours. We were looking to increase our understanding of Jewish history, Israeli culture, and current events. Thus, Hebron, one of the four holiest cities in Israel, was added to our itinerary.

Anyone who is considering travel to Israel should realize that the country has a plethora of historical sites. With a limited number of days to explore, it is important to narrow down your list to include what you want to see. To maximize one’s ability to see as much as possible, people usually stay in one or more places and select places to visit within approximately an hour of their accommodations. Since Hebron is about an hour from Jerusalem, it is a great choice for a day trip.

Note: Our visit to Hebron was part of a partially hosted, 12-day private Israel My Way tour. All opinions are my own.

Historic Overview Of Hebron

On our second day in Jerusalem, our tour guide, Eric Tomer, drove us to Hebron, an ancient city mentioned in the Bible dozens of times. Abraham lived in this city and later purchased land for a burial cave for his wife Sarah. Subsequently, the matriarchs and patriarchs, except for Rachael, were buried in a cave frequently referred to as the Cave of Machpelah (Cave of the Couples), or the Tomb of the Patriarchs and Matriarchs. Jewish mystical texts state that Adam and Eve were laid to rest near the entrance of the Garden of Eden in the same city.

For a few years in the 11th century BCE, King David used Hebron as his capital city. During the reign of King Herod in the 1st century CE, a large, rectangular building was constructed on top of the caves to honor this holy resting place. The exterior architecture is similar in design to the Western Wall, which was built during the same era.

At various points in time, the original structure was modified by Christian and Muslim authorities. Churches and mosques were added. The Muslims changed the appearance of the building by adding minarets to the exterior. From 1267–1967, the Muslims prevented Jews and Christians from entering the building. Their visits to this holy site were limited to the seventh step on the eastern entrance.

After the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE, historical records reveal that Jews frequently traveled to this historical place and also resided in the city. In 1929, Arabs went house to house murdering and raping Jewish residents and destroying buildings in the Jewish Quarter. The British did not intervene and chose to evict the Jewish survivors as well as other Jews who tried to live in Hebron in the 1930s. When Israel became a state in 1948, Jordan took control of Hebron. For almost 40 years, Jews were prohibited from coming to the city. 

They were able to finally return to the city after the 1967 Six-Day War. Efforts were made to restore Jewish historical sites and to re-establish a Jewish community in Hebron. An adjacent community called Kiryat Arba was also created.

The 1995 Oslo Agreement and 1997 Hebron Agreement resulted in a divided city. Today, most of Hebron, designated as H1, is governed by the Palestinian Authority. The remainder, designated as H2, is set aside for Jewish residents and historic sites. Both H1 and H2 are part of Israel.

Entering Hebron

On our way to Judea and Samaria, often referred to as the West Bank, we viewed many observation towers and tall security fences. We turned onto a road with a sign pointing to “The Jewish Neighborhoods of Hebron.” Shortly thereafter, we were joined by Saadia, a former New York Jew who lives with his family in Kiryat Arba. 

We stopped at a few security checkpoints manned by armed Israel Defense Force soldiers and passed by security cameras at just about every intersection. Saadia candidly discussed his religious passion to live and raise his young children in a place filled with biblical history. Hearing his narrative helped us understand the perspective of the small number of primarily religious Jews who have chosen to live in Hebron.

The Cave Of Machpelah

History lovers and individuals who appreciate the significance of the Bible will add the Cave of Machpelah to their must-see list. After the Temple Mount in Jerusalem, it is the second holiest place for the Jewish people. The cave also has the distinction of being the oldest Jewish site. Observant Muslims also consider it a holy place and refer to it as The Sanctuary of Abraham, while Christians embrace the site’s historic significance.

From the parking lot, we walked up a series of stairs. I was immediately impressed by King Herod’s contribution to society, built centuries ago. Unlike other structures that are no longer fully intact, this building remains a stellar example of 1st-century-CE architecture. 

The interior is divided between a small Jewish section and a larger Muslim side, with two separate entrances. The ability to see both the Jewish and Muslim sides is limited to 10 days per year for each religion. The Jewish side includes sanctuaries, study areas with bookshelves, and partitioned rooms for the patriarchs and matriarchs. Iron gates prevent entry into the underground tombs. 

As Ira and I moved from one room to the next, we both experienced an intangible feeling of tranquility, similar to what we feel when standing before the more crowded Western Wall in the Old City of Jerusalem. 

The Avraham Avinu Synagogue

When I stepped into the Avraham Avinu Synagogue, I was transported back to the post-Spanish Inquisition period, when Spanish Jews migrated to the Land of Israel in the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1540, the Jews who had settled in Hebron built the Avraham Avinu Synagogue. Over time, it became a focal point for the Hebron Sephardic community. 

During the 1929 pogrom, the synagogue was desecrated. Survivors of the massacre rescued the ancient Torah scrolls and relocated their community to Jerusalem. When the Jordanians occupied Hebron from 1948–1967, they destroyed this synagogue, which had existed for hundreds of years, and replaced it with a sheep pen and public latrine.

When efforts were made to restore the Jewish sites in Hebron in the 1980s, the Israeli government authorized the excavation of this site along with the rebuilding of the synagogue. Some of the original pillars were preserved up to 3.5 meters (11.5 feet) and were included in the modern structure. A few years later, parts of the surrounding Jewish Quarter were rebuilt.

The ark was locked during our visit, so it was not possible to look closely at the ancient Torah scrolls that were returned to Hebron. The ability to rebuild a temporarily lost community stands as a strong testament to the Jews who worked together to preserve a prominent city from biblical times.

The Hebron Visitor Center And Museum In The Beit Hadassah Building

The clinic called Chesed L’Avraham was built in 1893 to provide care for the Hebron people and offered free medical services for the indigent. In the early part of the 20th century, it became affiliated with the Hadassah Women’s Zionist Organization and continued to offer free services to both Jews and Arabs. This medical building was looted and burned during the 1929 pogrom.

In 1979, a group of women and children chose to surreptitiously occupy the vacant Beit Hadassah. They then lived under extremely harsh conditions for over a year. The government of Israel finally agreed to re-establish a Jewish community and renovate nearby historic buildings after Arab terrorists murdered a handful of Yeshiva students outside the building. A museum was created in the lower level to preserve the history of Hebron and to dispel misconceptions. False narratives of Jewish history are frequently caused by ignorance and anti-Semitism.

Our walk through the museum helped us better understand what Saadia had shared about Hebron’s history. A timeline pinpoints important dates and interactive displays provide insight into how Hebron’s Jews lived from the 16th century until the 1929 pogroms. We also viewed relics from the Tel Hebron excavations. One room uses photographs, artifacts, and facts to retell the story of the 1929 pogrom.

Beit Menachem And The Tel Hebron Excavation

Under the support beams of the Beit Menachem apartment building built in the 1980s lies the archeological ruins of a four-room Israeli house dating back 4,000 years, along with columns from less than 3,000 years ago. During excavations, a king’s seal and remnants from a wine press and distillery were uncovered. 

Before visiting one of Saadia’s American friends, who resides in the building, we walked up several floors to the observation deck where we could appreciate the total size of Hebron. Since we spent a considerable amount of time learning about everyday life in Hebron — while conversing with Saadia, Ben, and his wife — time did not permit a visit to the nearby Tel Hebron Archeological Park, which has archeological ruins from the time of the patriarchs and matriarchs. Archeological sites throughout Israel substantiate different points in Ancient Israel’s history.

Pro Tip 

A day trip to Hebron can be combined with a visit to the Gush Etzion Heritage Center. Inside the building, visitors can watch a powerful reenactment of the final days of Kfar Etzion in 1948. Two popular hikes are also accessible at this location.

Related Reading:

• The Unique Culinary Tour Not To Miss In Jerusalem
• 5 Reasons You’ll Love This Unique Cooking Class In Israel
• 9 Things To Know Before Visiting Captivating Tel Aviv

One of the most beautiful and rugged landscapes of Turkey is in the region of Cappadocia. Located in the historic Central Anatolia Region, Cappadocia, a name that once meant “land of beautiful horses,” is a 90-minute flight from Istanbul. Nevsehir, Kayseri, Aksaray, and Nigde are the four cities that form the touring area of Cappadocia.

Prehistoric cave homes carved into the mountains, hot air balloon rides, medieval churches with intact, painted frescoes, breathtaking mountain ranges in hues of white, red, rose, and green, vast underground cities, mountaintop villages with merchants selling local crafts and merchandise, and richly flavored and spiced foods are just some of the outstanding things that make Cappadocia an unforgettable destination.

The best times to visit Cappadocia are March through June and September and October. Temperatures in July and August can reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. We’ll be your travel guides. From hot air balloon rides over the region to Cappadocia tours, here are some of the best things to do on your visit to central Turkey.

1. Go On A Famous Cappadocia Hot Air Balloon Ride

Just one look up at the sky when you are in Cappadocia, and you will spot dozens of colorful hot air balloons floating in the distance. Hot air ballooning is the best and most magical way to experience the dramatic landscapes of the area.

Cappadocia Hot Air Balloon Flights

Cappadocia Balloon Flights is a well-established company that provides three types of voyages. The Standard flight is 60 minutes, with a capacity of up to 20 people in one basket and offers a complimentary glass of Champagne upon landing. The cost is under 150 euros per person. The next level is the Deluxe package, which is the same as the Standard, except it’s 90 minutes, and the basket holds 12 to 16 people max. The cost is under 250 euros per person. The Special program includes the same amenities as the other two options, but is almost private, with baskets that only take two to four people. All rides include a round-trip transfer to and from your hotel.

Kapadokya Zeppelin

If you are looking for a romantic balloon ride just for two, Kapadokya Zeppelin offers the exclusive VIP experience, which includes a light breakfast and a Champagne reception after you land.

Pro Tip: Balloon tours start at sunrise because of the optimal wind conditions.

2. Visit Goreme Open-Air Museum

Göreme National Park was one of the first UNESCO World Heritage List sites designated in Turkey. Nearby, just east of the town of Goreme, the Goreme Open-Air Museum is an outdoor complex of monasteries and cave churches cut into volcanic rock from the 10th, 11th, and 12th centuries. Many of the chapels were carved from the stone mountains and some have frescoes that remarkably still retain their original colors.

Highlights of the Goreme Open-Air Museum include the Nunnery, a seven-story rock sculpture, which contained a nunnery with a dining hall, kitchen, and chapel, the Apple Church with four columns and a central dome with detailed frescoes of scenes from the Bible and the life of Christ, and the Dark Church, which is accessed by a winding tunnel and has wall murals with scenes from the Annunciation, Journey to Bethlehem, Nativity, Baptism, Last Supper, and Crucifixion.

A short walk from the main attractions of the park brings you to the Buckle Church, which has four chambers housing the Old Church with its bright red and green paint depictions of the Bible, and the New Church, which has indigo paintings of the life of Christ in great detail.

Pro Tip: Two-hour, private tours of the park can be arranged.

3. Go Underground

There are 36 underground cities in Cappadocia, and they contain just as much history and fascination as the mountains and structures above ground. Some of the more well-known underground cities of the Cappadocia region include Derinkuyu Underground City, Ozkonak Underground City, Mazi Village Underground City, Gaziemir Underground City, and Kaymakli Underground City.

Kaymakli Underground City

Built under a citadel, Kaymakli is the deepest and most complex underground city in the area. The underground extravaganza consists of eight floors, four of which are open to the public. There’s a church, stables, living quarters, storage areas, wine cellars, and a kitchen. It was also discovered that the city had a facility to melt copper. Research has shown that up to 3,500 inhabitants may have lived there at one time.

4. Take A Walking Tour And Hike

Andromeda Tours: The Red Tour

An award-winning tour company, Andromeda Tours offers day tours throughout Cappadocia and Turkey. The Red Tour, a full-day tour with pick up from and return to your hotel, explores the northern part of the area including the city of Goreme. The tour includes a visit to Goreme Open-Air Museum and Monks Valley. Also known as Paşabağ Valley, the area is famous for its “fairy chimneys,” which are geological rock formations with mushroom-like tops. Next, stop by a ceramics workshop and factory where you’ll experience a potter at his wheel, hand-making pottery. The tour ends with a visit to Uchisar Castle, which has a series of hollowed-out rooms in towering rock formations with stone stairways, passageways, and tunnels. Uchisar Castle is the highest point of Cappadocia and has sensational views. Lunch at an authentic Turkish tavern is included.

Ala Turka Tour Company: The Green Tour

You can also take a full-day tour of South Cappadocia, where the softer colors of green, orange, and pink are markedly different than the earthy tones of the north. The first activity of The Green Tour, organized by Ala Turka Tour Company, is walking through the mostly flat Meskendir Valley, which has an ancient church with still-existing frescoes, followed by a walk in the Rose Valley, which has vineyards and gardens where locals will treat you to tastes of their products. Next is the Red Valley with stunning rock formations of red clay, followed by Cavusin Village, a labyrinth of homes carved out of rock that are thousands of years old, and the Church of John the Baptist, which dates back to the fifth century. Pigeon Village was created by farmers who used pigeon droppings as fertilizer for their crops and built special huts to attract them. The last stop is Love Valley, where you can view pillars, cones, and mushroom-shaped volcanic rock formations.

Pro Tip: Make sure you plan your tours and excursions according to your physical abilities and stamina. Tour companies offer tours and activities ranging from hiking trails up steep mountains to bus tours with minimal walking.

5. Sample The Local Delicacies

Reserved Restaurant & Lounge

Reserved Restaurant & Lounge in Uçhisar is a pleasant deviation from the area’s many Turkish restaurants with traditional food and interiors. This Cappadocian restaurant’s beautifully appointed contemporary interior has aqua blue, velvet tufted chairs, creamy marble floors, petrified wood tabletops, and chiseled rock walls. The chef, who was the head chef at the Four Seasons Hotel in Istanbul, has created a contemporary Turkish menu.

Pro Tip: A must-eat is the mezze of five spreads including baba ghanoush and hummus, plus a bowl of black and green olives. The restaurant serves excellent Turkish wines.

Ziggy Terrace

Ziggy Café is in a restored stone house that has three outdoor terraces overlooking the scenic mountain village of Urgup. Inside is cozy with club chairs and fireplaces. The menu specialties include borek, puff pastry filled with cheese, spinach, and/or meat, and pastirma, a sundried, cured version of pastrami prepared with garlic, fenugreek seeds, paprika, and salt.

6. Stay In A Unique Hotel

The Karlik Evi Hotel

The Karlik Evi Hotel is a quirky and whimsical hotel in an old house. The lobby is filled with antiques, Turkish rugs, backgammon sets, and handsome dark wood floors. Paintings and drawings, collected by the owners, who attend the annual art fair in Uchisar, hang on almost every wall. The spacious rooms have stone walls, bathrooms with jacuzzi tubs, king-size beds, and pillows wrapped in tapestries arranged on the floor with low tables for tea drinking. The extended garden area behind the hotel combines a sculpture garden, a glass gazebo, and a partially working farm with a henhouse.

The Museum Hotel

Part of the Relais and Chateau hotel group, The Museum Hotel has 30 uniquely designed rooms, all luxuriously appointed with antiques and stunning views of Cappadocia. The hotel has a swimming pool with a mosaic floor and a stone deck. The Lil’A is one of the best restaurants in Cappadocia and the award-winning chef, Mustafa Buyukhan, imaginatively combines the flavors and accents of Turkey and Armenia. The hotel offers cooking classes with Chef Buyukhan, during which you learn how to prepare a typical Turkish meal.

Rox Cappadocia Cave Hotel

Rox Cappadocia has converted a series of stone caves into six luxurious hotel rooms. An organic breakfast of homemade breads, jams, and cheese with Turkish coffee is served on a delightful terrace with lounges and sofas facing the mountains, and snacks are served in the afternoon.

7. Shop For Souvenirs, Carpets, And More

All the villages in Cappadocia have high-quality, locally made crafts, ceramics, rugs, tapestries, and souvenirs. Prices are quite reasonable, so it’s easy and fun to stock up on gifts and not break the bank. Cute mini-hot air balloon key chains make great gifts.

Serhat, in Uchisar, has hand-embroidered tablecloths, napkins, and runners in soft cotton and silks.

In Goreme, Sultan Carpet stocks a wide selection of handmade carpets and tapestries from nomadic villages.

Pro Tip: It’s customary to bargain in the shops, so don’t be afraid to negotiate a lower price, especially if you buy multiple items in one shop.

Related Reading:

• 9 Reasons You’ll Love Visiting Turkey’s Black Sea Coast
• Why Bursa, Turkey Is A Must-Visit
• 7 Exciting Underground Locations To Visit In Turkey

The small state of Qatar has people from around the globe living and working there, at the last count roughly 100 different nationalities. So, you can imagine that eating out is fun. You can eat your way around the world and sample a different cuisine every time you go out for a meal. In addition to the variety of cooking methods and recipes to try, you also have the choices of top-notch celebrity-chef lead restaurants and small cafés. From fine dining to street food vans and tiny juice stalls, you can pretty much spend as much or as little as you want.

Having lived in Qatar for a year now, I try to eat out at least once a week to sample new restaurants. That said, there are some definite favorites to which I return over and over again, and I want to share those with you. After all, one good meal can be a fluke, but enjoyable repeat performances are more reliable.

Here, I give you my current preferences, not in any order. They range from fancy restaurants, branches of which you might find in your city, to cafés; from local cuisine to tastes from around the world.

1. Jiwan

National Museum Of Qatar

Whenever someone asks me to recommend great Qatari food combined with a bit of a wow factor, I point them straight in the direction of this gorgeous place. Jiwan by Alain Ducasse is located in the beautiful National Museum of Qatar which was designed to look like a gigantic desert rose, a gypsum and sand formation you find in the desert. Inside the restaurant, you have the delicate 3,000-piece Swarovski crystal wave-like chandelier. Sit on the terrace in the cooler months and you can enjoy the views across the city and the turquoise bay.

What To Order At Jiwan  

The cuisine is modern Qatari. You are welcomed with a turmeric shot, and the menu is probably full of things you have never heard of, but your server will explain all the dishes to you. For starters, try the leeks with walnuts or the beetroot tabbouleh. If they have hamour fish for the main, have that. Otherwise, try the confit lamb. For dessert, the house-own pistachio baklava is a must.

2. Nobu

Four Seasons Doha

Who doesn’t know Nobu? I nearly feel like I am offering you an expensive version of a chain restaurant, but the Nobu Doha is not only the largest in the world but also one of the most spectacular. Set on its own peninsula by the Four Seasons Hotel Doha’s marina, you get 360-degree views of Doha, surrounded by the light green waters of the bay. The architecture is great, the service is superb, and the food is excellent.

What To Order At Nobu

Come for Friday brunch. An institution in Qatar, Friday brunches involve plenty of the typical Nobu food. Plenty of sushi, signature dishes, and, depending on which package you choose, endless champagne, cocktails, or mocktails. It is the best and least expensive way to sample the Nobu cuisine and eat and drink for three hours in a fabulous location.

3. Hakkasan

St. Regis Doha

Hakkasan, another “chain,” but a very nice chain restaurant indeed, has recently pushed Nobu off the top spot for me. The Asian food is simply delicious here. The interior décor is stylish, the service is wonderful, and the food is truly superb. You can enjoy brunch, similar to Nobu, with different packages available, or come for dinner. The interior’s cozy little nooks are perfect for a romantic meal for two. There is a terrace, but without views, so you might as well enjoy the air conditioning inside.

What To Order At Hakkasan

Let me start with a strange piece of advice: order a la carte, or the brunch menu, but don’t order the tasting or set menus. I know, normally that is exactly what you should do, but I found that I did not enjoy the tasting menu as much as the a la carte, and my friends agree. Instead, try the dim sum platter, the crispy tiger prawn, the Peking duck, and whatever you do, do not miss the sesame prawn toast with truffle. For dessert, have the spiky lemon cake.

4. BOHO Social

Katara Cultural Village

If you want hip, young, comfortable, and very colorful, then look no further than BOHO Social in Katara Cultural Village. This is one of my favorite places for a relaxed lunch, as you can lounge around on comfy sofas, looking out across the sea from the terrace, or find a nook inside where there is so much to see and take pictures of, you’ll forget to eat.

What To Order At BOHO Social

While relaxing on your sofa, you can nibble on a variety of snack foods, from local dishes to sandwiches and salads. Must-orders are the truffle flatbread, the pulled beef bao, the grilled chicken and mushroom pasta, and the burgers. Plus, they have famous cakes and desserts, so try and leave some space.

5. Ralph’s Café Van

The Fire Station

Whenever I have a morning meeting with someone, I tend to suggest Ralph’s coffee van in the Fire Station. You sit surrounded by art and the many galleries that have taken over the old fire station. The little, cute coffee van serves a decent coffee. That’s it, really. A coffee place, but a lovely place to sit, look at the art, look out across Al Bida Park toward Doha’s skyline.

What To Order At Ralph’s

Try the fresh croissants. They are crumbly, buttery, and perfect.

6. Rosemary Café

Al Hazm Mall

In Rosemary Café at the stunning Al Hazm shopping complex, where the rich Qataris come to shop for trinkets and normal mortals just window shop, you sit under a ceiling of pink flowers. This being a desert country, they are fake flowers, but the effect is still appreciated. With plenty of pink little details everywhere, it can get nearly too much, but only nearly. Come here for their spectacular cakes, for photographs, or simply to people-watch. Don’t miss it because it is rather lovely.

What To Order At Rosemary Café

I come here for breakfast. The locals’ favorite breakfast is karak and chapati, something you don’t get everywhere, but is delicious. Karak is a ginger-spiced milky tea, and chapati is an Indian fried flatbread that is stuffed with cheese and honey for breakfast. You can get it around Doha, such as in the lovely MIA Park by the Museum of Islamic Art, where there is a little karak and chapati food truck, or you can sit here, under a pink canopy, and indulge. The French toast is rather lovely, too.

7. BiBo

Al Gassar Resort

Sometimes I simply don’t feel like a large meal, and prefer smaller nibbles. That’s when Spanish tapas hit the spot, and BiBo Dani Garcia is perfect. BiBo is a wonderfully over-designed restaurant full of stone columns, chandeliers, tiled bathrooms, a shiny bar, and pink flamingos. This is the best place to spend an evening with a good bottle of red wine, good company, simply ordering small dish after dish, until you’re done.

What To Order At BiBo

I am a bit of a Tapas enthusiast, and wherever I spot a little tapas bar, I tend to try it out. Often though, at least a few tapas disappoint me. Here, I loved everything I ordered and ordered repeatedly. Definitely have the pan con tomate, the croquetas de puchero, and the Wagyu foodball. Wash it all down with a lovely bottle of Tempranillo, and you’ll have a lovely night.

8. Parisa

Souq Waqif

In the traditional Souq Waqif, the most popular restaurant is probably Parisa Souq Waqif, an incredibly colorful Persian restaurant. While it is run by the Ritz Carlton, the prices are affordable, and the setting is unique. Mirrors, tiles, bright mosaics everywhere, a fountain tinkling in the room, and plenty of chatter in this always buzzing restaurant make for a great atmosphere.

What To Order At Paris Souq Waqif

The menu is extensive and typically Persian. The portions are enormous, so try and share a few platters of chicken and rice, or the prawn dishes. The watermelon salad with pomegranate is lovely, and the Koresht Fesenjan, a chicken stew with walnuts and pomegranate is tasty and very typical.

9. Orient Pearl

Corniche

The Orient Pearl is a vast restaurant right on the Doha Corniche, nothing fancy, and hugely popular with locals. Sit outside on the terrace or inside in the private dining corners and bring an empty stomach. The restaurant serves everything great about Middle Eastern food, from Qatari hamour fish grilled to perfection, Lebanese Shish Taook, a lean chicken skewer with garlic aioli, and Egyptian Foul Mouala, to grilled halloumi, Fatoush salad, great spicy potatoes, and more.

What To Order At Orient Pearl

Everything. Truly. If you love Middle Eastern food, or if you’ve never had it, try as much as you can. If you can’t finish it, they pack it up for you to take. I often order meals from there, and we eat them all weekend.

Ask any worldwide traveler, and only a few will have experienced Qatar.

A small desert state on the Saudi Arabian Peninsula, Qatar is still a bit of an unopened book. There are plenty of things you need to be aware of before you book that ticket (for instance, I am writing this in August, and outside it is 120.5 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade, with 60 percent humidity). Once you know what you are getting yourself into and are in the stages of planning your trip, there are plenty of interesting things to see and put on your itinerary here.

Having lived in Doha for a few years now (and on my second expat stay), I can confidently say that I have seen pretty much every corner of this small country, but even I am amazed by the rate of change this Qatar is experiencing, and the constant opening of new hotels, restaurants, and art installations — and even new historical discoveries. 

Here I share a few sights and experiences that will give you a good all-around introduction to Qatar, from the modern capital city of Doha to the desert, from arts and culture to natural wonders. Whether you are staying for a brief stopover or coming for a little longer, there is plenty to keep you entertained. For a while, at least, because remember, this is a very small country, roughly 12 times smaller than Florida.

1. Explore Souq Waqif

Doha

To start off slowly, and to get used to the place, Souq Waqif is the perfect place to look around, take it easy, and get a feel for what the country and the region are all about. 

Souq Waqif is a traditional market, not unlike typical North African Bazaars. It was superbly restored after a fire in the early 2000s, and it’s the place where older locals still go to get their spices, their bales of cloth. The men come to buy a falcon, Qatar’s national bird; or indeed, bring their falcon to the Falcon Hospital. The Emiri’s Guard stable their camels and thoroughbred Arabian horses at Souq Waqif, and it’s where everybody, from locals to expat residents to tourists, meets for coffee, fresh juices, and good food.

Pro Tip: Just across the road from this traditional sight, you can find the Msheireb neighborhood, a hyper-modern antithesis of Souq Waqif, but just as much Doha as the souq. Striking architecture, trendy design boutiques, the design gallery M7, and plenty of great cafes keep you occupied. Try Rusk Artisanal Bakery for breakfast.

2. Be Dazzled At The Museum of Islamic Art

Doha

The MIA is one of my all-time favorite museums. It’s not only a stunning piece of architecture, designed by the late I.M. Pei, but a museum that brings together probably the best examples of Islamic art in the world. You wander from display to display, mouth hanging open, marveling at the design, the riches, the knowledge, and the beauty of its countless pieces, ranging from ancient manuscripts to pottery, from jewelry to carpets, from ornaments to arms, and so much more. 

Having been renovated and completely overhauled over the last year, MIA will reopen in early October 2022 and be even better, if that is possible.

Pro Tip: Doha’s loveliest park lies right next to the museum. MIA Park is wonderful to walk through, a green oasis, with grass, baobab trees, and unrivaled views. Walk along the trail curling behind the museum, taking you past traditional wooden dhow boats and to the sculpture 7 by Richard Serra.

3. See An Incredible Art Installation

Zekreet

The first place I went when I moved back to Qatar was the desert to see Richard Serra’s installation East-West/West-East, roughly an hour’s drive from Doha. The artist’s second installation in Qatar (7 in MIA Park was the first) is made up of four roughly 50-foot-high weathered steel columns standing in line in an otherworldly landscape of rocky outcrops and sand. That might sound boring, but it is incredibly powerful and beautiful.

Pro Tip: It is fun to try and find it yourself, driving through the desert in your rented 4WD with good GPS, but it’s quite literally a hidden gem, so it might be better to take part in an organized trip.

4. Witness A Natural Spectacle, The Inland Sea

Khor Al Adaid

The Khor Al Adaid, known to English speakers as the Inland Sea, is a spot of Qatar that has been recognized by UNESCO as a Natural World Heritage Site. It’s a saltwater inlet into the extension of the Rub’ Al Khali, or the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert in the world. Here, graceful dunes meet turquoise waters (and, in winter, flocks of pink flamingos) and make for a very photogenic spectacle. 

The Inland Sea is also the residents’ playground, with dune bashing, i.e., driving at speed up and down the sand dunes, scuba diving, sandboarding, and day tripping being popular pastimes.

Pro Tip: To truly experience the sights and adventures that the desert brings, go on a “Desert Safari” and spend the night either in a tent by the water, or in the more glamping-oriented Sealine Resort nearby. Spending the night in the desert will allow you to glimpse a sky like no other.

5. View Ancient History At Al Jassasiya

Sidriyat Al Kheesah

This is a site I seemed to have missed when I first lived here, or maybe I thought it would not be worthwhile — because petroglyphs and the nomadic Bedouin lifestyle don’t seem to go together, do they? Yet in the northeast of Qatar, on a rocky expanse rising low from the sand and easy to drive past without a second glance, lies one of Qatar’s ancient wonders, the Al Jassasiya rock carvings.

The carvings hint at a settlement of fishermen hundreds of years ago. There are carvings of boats, fish, and other strange figures. There are also many ancient games in the form of parallel holes into which, I guess, you had to move pepples. You can self-drive and explore the 800+ carvings yourself, with information panels on site giving you more information.

Pro Tip: Combine the trip north with a visit to Al Zubara fort and the surrounding archaeological digs, all designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

6. Enjoy Art, Culture, And Great Food

Katara Cultural Village

Whether you come for the street art, the stunning tiled mosques, an event in the gigantic amphitheater, or simply for the chance to have coffee by the beach with the views across to Doha West Bay, Katara Cultural Village is a wonderful place to get lost in. This pretty little quarter dedicating itself to art and creativity is dotted with food eateries ranging from Poffertjes stands to Turkish cuisine, and is where many exciting events happen in Qatar. There are annual dhow races, horse shows, art exhibitions, and much more — but really, all you need is to meander aimlessly and enjoy whatever you come across by chance.

7. Enjoy The Copy Quirkiness Of Doha

Doha

Want to travel by gondola down a Venetian canal? Head to Villaggio Mall. Want to marvel at Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele? Go straight to Al Hazm shopping complex. Never eaten at Le Train Bleu in Paris? You can do it here and never for a moment believe you’re not in Paris, but in the desert. There are many places here that make you take a step back and deal with a severe attack of déjà vu.

Qatar has a definite quirky side. Lots of money and the sometimes bleak setting of daily sand and heat make people inventive, and they bring the world to them instead of traveling to it. So you will find all sorts of copycat sights, restaurants, and enjoyments from around the world right here in Doha.

Head, for example, to the Qanat Quartier on the Pearl. Here you are transported straight to Italy, complete with the Rialto Bridge, while across the road, there is the South of France. On the outskirts of Doha, you can even stay in a large (faux) English country house, the Al Aziziyah Boutique Hotel, or eat in an authentic-looking American diner on Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara.

Pro Tip: You can easily eat your way around the world in Doha. So many nationalities live and work next to each other, and everybody has brought their cuisine. Enjoy the local cuisine first, but don’t shy away from trying something totally different. Everything is possible in Qatar.

The Mechaneh Yehuda Market (also known as the Shuk), along with the adjacent restaurants and bars, captures the essence of Israel’s fusion of cultures. The 19th-century peasants who created a place to sell their products outside the more established Old City in Jerusalem would be surprised to see the enormous crowds that now consume the walkways in the Shuk, which caters to both a local and an international audience.

While specialty food items are the main draw, vendors also sell an assortment of other items including flowers, arts and crafts, clothing, Judaica, and houseware goods.

What Is Mechaneh Yehuda

More than a decade after our first visit to the Mechaneh Yehuda Market, I can vividly recall how we were forced to weave our way in and out of the crowds congregating near the areas where the more popular food vendors were located.

Since these visits were always on Friday afternoons right before the market closed early for the Jewish Sabbath, we watched residents rushing to purchase last-minute food items and bouquets of freshly cut flowers to prepare for their fast-approaching traditional Friday night dinner.

While this market with more than 250 vendors remains closed on Saturday, the nearby cafes and restaurants open on Saturday evening. Individuals who want to ignite their senses by the assortment of aromas, sounds, sights, and tastes without a tour, can visit on Sundays through Thursdays from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. and on Fridays from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Our most recent itinerary included a private Mechaneh Yehuda Culinary Food Tour. This tour, which included stops inside the Shuk, as well as places on the perimeter, was included in our partially hosted Israel My Way tour, but all opinions are my own.

Connecting With Our Tour Guide — Roi Damari

Standing near the marketplace, our Israel My Way tour guide, Eric Tomer, introduced us to Roi Damari, a Yemenite Jew born in the 1980s in a moshav on the outskirts of Jerusalem. Following his mandatory service in the Israeli Defense Forces, Roi explored several career opportunities, including being a specialty cook for private parties, and then later studying to become a tour guide. When Roi observed the growing interest in food, he combined his passion for food with his existing background as a licensed tour guide to create culinary tours in Jerusalem.

During Roi’s youth, the Shuk was not on anyone’s radar. Just a couple of decades later, the Shuk is often cited as one of the top ten places to visit in Jerusalem. An influx of millions of immigrants coming from North America, Europe, Africa, and Asia has added depth to Israeli’s culinary scene by showcasing a variety of ethnic foods along with a strong desire by some chefs to blend and combine foods in daring and bold ways. With Roi leading the way, we forged through a mass of people as we walked toward our first stop.

Best Stops On A Mechaneh Yehuda Food Tour

1. Hachapuria

For more than a decade, visitors have indulged in some of Georgia’s favorite foods at Hachapuria on the corner of HaShikma Street and HaEshkol Street. We watched the cooks in an open kitchen prepare an open-faced circular bread made with yeast dough. In the middle, the chefs were placing an assortment of ingredients. The most popular one appeared to be the acharuli, a cheese and soft fried egg bread that is often cited as Georgia’s national dish.

Our order was slightly different. The puffed bread dough was filled with spinach and melted cheese and was served in a lined rectangular shallow box with a small plastic container of pickled carrots along with two dipping sauces — a red sauce made with lemon, bell peppers, tomato, and garlic, and a green sauce created with dill, garlic, green apple, coriander, salt, and vinegar.

2. Morduch

At Morduch, we tasted a stuffed grape leaf, sometimes nicknamed the “first sushi of the world” and a sambusa, a triangular pastry filled with chickpea paste. Both were served as is, without any sauces or condiments. According to Roi, the time-consuming efforts to prepare a pot of rolled, stuffed grape leaves cause some Jews of Spanish descent to label this food the most loved Sephardi food. (Sephardim are the descendants of Jews who lived in Spain and Portugal during the early years of the Common Era. Many of these Jews were forced to migrate at different points in history, including the Expulsion from Spain and Portugal in the 15^th and 16^th centuries.)

During a Druze cooking lesson in the Galilee, we had the opportunity to create stuffed grape leaves. While our private cooking workshop did not allow for a prolonged cooking time, Roi felt that the flavor intensifies the longer it simmers in a pot. Along with a glass of cold water, this snack was served with a shot of Arak Shalit, an alcoholic beverage distilled from wine. While many dislike the distinct taste of anise, I thought it was a good complement to these foods.

3. Basher Fromagerie Mahane Yehuda

Inside the Shuk, we made an unscheduled stop at Basher Fromagerie. With an Israeli emphasis on dairy dishes, locals flock to this store for top-quality imported cheeses. Eli and Dudu Basher fill their Shuk counters and shelves with hundreds of international and domestic cheeses. Even though we rarely eat cheese, we nibbled on small samples served on thin slices of bread garnished with dried fruit and splinters of potato chips.

4. The Etrog Man

Long before health drinks and smoothies were popular, Uzi Eli Hezi started selling drinks and cosmetics in the marketplace. His formulas were based on Moses Maimonides’ medieval herbal remedies and information he gathered from around the world. Often a Yemenite etrog grown on a nearby farm was included. The Yemenite etrog, about the size of a squash, is considerably larger than the lemon-sized etrog used by American Jews during the autumn festival of Sukkot.

Sitting at a crowded counter, we sipped four beverages. Roi shared the ingredients and described the medicinal qualities. A combination of berries produced the red tone of the first drink, which was designed to clean the blood system. The off-white beverage made from almonds and dates improved brain and heart function. A mixture of passion fruit and coconut created a light-yellow colored drink that many customers turned to for its relaxing aftereffects. The last one, a green-colored liquid, was filled with a combination of grapefruit, etrog, and some sugar.

5. Ayesha Falafel Bar

If you don’t eat falafel, hummus, and pita while you’re traveling in Israel, you’ve missed out on a regional favorite. Roi’s first choice in Mechaneh Yehuda was Ayesha, founded by his friend Sefi and Sefi’s fiancé, Eden. Roi graciously shared the key ingredients for the green version of our falafel bowl — coriander, parsley, herbs, and spices.

The freshly made falafel had a golden-brown texture with a moist green color inside while our bowls of hummus were garnished with whole garbanzo beans along with a few sprigs of parsley. Warm strips of pita were also included.

6. Halva Kingdom

Long before I ever visited Israel, I had many opportunities to nibble on chunks of halva at Jewish special occasions. Usually, the American version was overly sweet, had a straw-like texture, and was limited to a handful of flavors.

During our first visit to the Shuk, I became hooked on Halva Kingdom’s version. Even though this business has been operating since the 1940s in the Old City and since the 1980s in the Shuk, their 100+ flavors of halva are currently unavailable in the United States. With considerably more sesame seeds than sugar, this specialty item is something that cannot be skipped during a trip to Jerusalem.

The sesame seeds are imported from Ethiopia, ground with a millstone press, and then mixed with the other ingredients. The recipes have been handed down from generation to generation, with today’s batches being supervised by the founder’s grandchildren.

Pro Tip

Halva is not perishable and can be packed easily. Consider purchasing for future snacks or for gifts.

7. Cookie Cream

Like many other worldwide food tours, Roi ended the tour with a desert. While the exact origin of placing a slab of ice cream between two cookies is debated among food historians, it is an American invention. At Cookie Cream, our choices included more than a dozen different cookies along with almost as many flavors of ice cream. Even though this dessert did not have a direct tie to Israel, it was a great way to end a multi-hour food tour on a hot, late spring afternoon.

Benefits Of A Mechaneh Yehuda Culinary Tour

Participants are personally directed to a cross-section of places that would be more challenging to identify during a self-guided tour. Along the way, morsels of pertinent information help to put the overall culture of Israel’s diverse food scene into perspective. Like many other sites around the world, it is possible to wander around and create your own personal journey. However, a tour offers a more productive use of your limited time with a greater understanding of what you are experiencing.

Pro Tip

Skip breakfast and wear comfortable shoes. If you feel claustrophobic in crowded places, avoid scheduling a Friday tour.

For more on Israel, explore these articles:

• 5 Reasons You’ll Love This Unique Cooking Class In Israel
• 9 Things To Know Before Visiting Captivating Tel Aviv
• 9 Experiences To Savor In Enchanting Tel Aviv

Twenty-two years ago, I moved to Qatar for the first time. Then, I had no idea where in the world this country was located, nor did my bewildered family. My husband had been offered a position there and our move set off an avalanche of worldwide relocations that have currently come full circle, with us living in Doha, Qatar, for a second time.

But what a change these last 20 years have brought. Qatar is currently on every sports fan’s mind, with the FIFA World Cup coming in November. Many people have been through the Hamad International Airport, voted Best Airport in the World, transiting between east and west, while a recent tourism boom has brought many visitors to these shores, arriving either by plane or cruise ship.

Still, ask most people, and Qatar remains a bit of an unknown. So, here I will tackle some of the most often asked questions, to give you some background on this small desert state in the Middle East.

Where Is Qatar Located?

Look closely to the east of the vast Saudi Arabian Peninsula, and you’ll see a tiny thumb-shaped protrusion sticking out into the Arabian Gulf, or Persian Gulf. Directly bordered only by Saudi Arabia, the island state of Bahrain lies just to the north, and the United Arab Emirates to the south.

What Is Qatar Known For?

In brief, Qatar is the world’s third richest country according to GDP per capita, has vast gas and oil reserves, and will be hosting the FIFA soccer World Cup in November 2022. The small country initially made its wealth from pearl diving and the pearl trade. Today, Qatar is emerging as one of the most important art destinations in the Middle East, with world-renowned artists having public art installations here, from Richard Serra to Damien Hirst.

What Types Of Food Do People Eat In Qatar?

The cuisine of Qatar is, to put it simply, a mix of influences ranging from India to Lebanon, with rice, chicken, and lamb dishes being the most popular, such as Machboos, a richly spiced but not spicy rice dish. There is a great range of seafood, with hamour being a lovely white grouper that is not much known outside the region, and there is always a selection of honey-dripping sweets. The favorite local breakfast is a simple karak (ginger spiced milky tea) and chapati, an Indian flatbread. But in Doha, you will find restaurants from every corner of the world, with options ranging from celebrity chef restaurants to tiny fresh juice stalls and food trucks.

How To Get Around Qatar?

To explore the country, a car, or organized tour, is essential because once outside of the capital, the desert takes over. And without a car, you can only reach so far. Within Doha, a modern metro system takes you around, connecting most main parts of the capital, including the airport, stopping along places such as the Corniche, a 5-mile-long promenade along Doha Bay. Within certain inner city neighborhoods, such as Souq Waqif or the design district of Msheireb, you are best advised to explore on foot, while for other city journeys, there are taxis and Ubers available.

What Is The Currency In Qatar?

The currency is the Qatari Riyal, abbreviated to QR or QAR. One riyal, divided into 100 dirhams, is roughly equivalent to $0.27 USD, but all international cards are accepted in the majority of locations. The notes come in denominations of QAR1, QAR5, QAR10, QAR50, QAR100, QAR200, and QAR500. There are ATMs in the airport allowing you to have a bit of cash on hand for tips and small purchases.

What Are Some Of The Cultural Customs In Qatar?

Qatar is a Muslim country, and as such, both men and women should dress modestly. That means covering the shoulders and wearing clothes that reach the knee. You will see plenty of young people wearing tank tops and shorts, but if you intend to visit places where you can expect to meet locals, then it is simply polite to cover up a little. In some cases, you might even not be allowed entry if not dressed suitably. On the hotel beaches and in the pools, bikinis and swimming shorts are absolutely fine.

Traditionally, you should only eat food with your right hand, the left being used for more unsavory toilet business. You should also not sit in a way that you show the soles of your feet to locals, nor should you ever decline an offer of food or drink. That said, people are aware that you are foreign, and are very flexible and forgiving. Where eating with only the right hand is concerned, watch any local eating a burger, and that rule goes straight out of the window.

What Is The Weather Like?

Honestly? It gets very hot. My advice is not to visit during June or the end of September, as temperatures easily reach 122 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade, and the humidity is very high, making it at times unbearable. In the summer, people rarely move outside, only in their air-conditioned cars to go to air-conditioned stores, with many families simply leaving in summer when school is out.

In the spring and fall, as well as in the winter, the weather is beautiful, with a breeze coming in from the sea and the whole country bursting into outdoor life. Officially, there is a rainy season between December and March, but that tends to last 1–2 days max. The rain often comes in January, when the heavens can open for a couple of hours. But the “rainy season” should not put you off at all, as the rain is mostly made up of 10 drops that don’t even join up on the ground.

Is It Safe?

Qatar is very safe; indeed, it has repeatedly been nominated the safest country in the world. Crime rates are extremely low, as is harassment and theft. I have always felt safe walking on my own or taking a taxi at night. That said, there is always an exception, and all you need is one bad case, so normal common sense precautions should always be taken.

Can I Drink Alcohol There?

Unlike Saudi Arabia, Qatar is not a “dry” country, but access to alcohol is limited mostly to the large international hotels, and the restaurants and bars inside those hotels. You will not be able to import alcohol or buy it in supermarkets, nor anywhere else, unless you are a resident and have been approved for a liquor license. Alcohol in the hotels is not cheap (with a 12-ounce beer costing around QAR40, or $10 USD), but you can get everything from champagne to spirits.

Are Women Allowed To Drive?

Yes, women are not restricted in any way. Women can rent a car on arrival, and there is even a limousine service driven by women for women. Women do not have to cover up, apart from wearing modest dress (see more below). Qatar is a safe country for female solo travelers.

Are There Religious Restrictions?

The most important factor to bear in mind is the holy month of Ramadan. This month, the timing of which changes by around 10–12 days each year, is the most important in the Muslim calendar. Throughout Ramadan, it is forbidden, even for non-Muslims, to eat and drink, or smoke and chew gum, in public between the hours of sunrise and sunset. Most restaurants, apart from a selection in most hotels, are closed during the day, and store timings change as well, with many shutting down during certain times and staying open late into the night. Ramadan can be an interesting, but inconvenient time to visit the country.

What Is There To Do?

While often touted as a brief stopover destination, there is in fact a lot to see and do in Qatar. Explore the desert, preferably via 4WD, hurtling up and down the sand dunes. Then, shop up a storm in the many super-fancy malls. There is the lovely Souq Waqif, a traditional bazaar, where you get anything from a falcon to bales of silk, spices to pretty trinkets, and plenty of gold jewelry. There are world-class museums, such as the Museum of Islamic Art and the National Museum of Qatar, and countless art galleries, many of which can be found in the Katara Cultural Village.

What Are Some Key Arabic Phrases?

While everybody speaks English in Qatar, because it is the common language between more than 100 nationalities living and working there, it is always appreciated if you try to use a few local phrases when, for example, in the souq.

The most common greeting is Salam-Alaikum, which is answered with Alaikum Salam, both meaning “peace be with you.” “Good Morning” is Sabah al Khair, while a simple “hello” is Hala or Ahlan. “How are you?” is Kheef Halak? and “goodbye” is Massalama. “Please” is Min Fadlak and “Thank you” is Shukran, while “Yes” is Aiwa, and “No” is La.

Pro Tip: Weekends In Qatar

Please note that the weekend here falls on Friday and Saturday, with Sunday being a working day. So, if you want to go for one of those bottomless brunches, which are very popular in Doha, book it for Friday.

It was in Petra that I first heard about the Nabataean Kingdom. Though I was spellbound by the archaeological site, I’d known little of its history.

The Nabataeans were Arabs from the Negev desert who led a Bedouin lifestyle — relocating whenever grazing for their animals ran out, moving according to meetups and markets. They made the best of what the dry, desert surroundings had to offer by being flexible about where they called home, but they still built large settlements and cities when the opportunity struck.

Living in the region that spans modern-day southern Jordan and the northern half of Saudi Arabia, the tribe controlled part of the Incense Route that wound its way through their kingdom, making them very rich indeed. This was all roughly 2,000 years ago.

Petra, an archaeological site in today’s Jordan, was the Nabataeans’ main city, with more than 1,000 of their monuments still there to see today. It is undoubtedly the most famous and most impressive Nabataean site. But not long after visiting Petra, someone told me about Hegra, also known as Mada’in Saleh, in modern-day Saudi Arabia. It is host to 111 Nabataean rock tombs. 

Alas, it was at a time when visiting Saudi Arabia as a tourist was practically impossible. But I kept it on the back burner, and as soon as Saudi introduced their e-visa and COVID restrictions eased, I was off to AlUla — first stop, Hegra, the Nabataean Kingdom’s second city.

Here are some reasons why this historic tribe and its architectural achievements fascinate me so much, and why you should put Hegra on your travel to-do list.

Pro Tip: To get to Hegra, you can fly into the little airport of AlUla, either connecting through Jeddah or Riyadh or direct from Dubai. Hegra itself can only be visited as part of a tour, to protect the ancient site, but there are several daily tours, even out of season.

1. Just Because You Can

As I mentioned, for years I had longed to visit the famous rock in Hegra — the one that looks like it is standing all alone in the middle of the desert, a temple-like tomb carved into the center of it. Little did I know that this lone rock was part of an entire complex (and one that is not yet busy with tourists).

Petra is so popular that you can barely walk, let alone allow the magic of ancient history to cast its spell. But in Hegra — practically left untouched for 2,000 years, and with Saudi Arabia’s tourism still in its infancy — you’ll be one of the first internationals to see these wondrous sights, and all without having to stand in line.

2. The Workmanship Is Amazing

Most of the famous structures, such as the temples and the tombs, were literally carved from the mountains and rocks found in and around the Negev desert. It makes sense that this type of construction was used by a nomadic desert tribe; one, they would not be carrying much building material around with them, and two, wood and other supplies were of limited availability in the desert. That is not to say that the Nabataeans did not use the wood of the few trees around — they did use timber for scaffolding, as reinforcements for walls and roof structures, and to construct arches and ceilings — but mostly, they carved into rock.

In Hegra, you can see a few examples of remains of “normal” domestic living structures, such as private houses, which were built from rocks, coral, or mudbrick; but the Nabataeans are famous for fashioning entire structures from sandstone and bedrock. On the faces of the tombs in Hegra, you can see the steps at the top of the structures, which seem part of the façade’s décor, but which are in fact part of the workers’ access to the tombs when they were carving from above.

3. The History Is Practically Unknown

As with most nomadic peoples, physical proof of the Nabataeans’ history is rare. Records were passed on through stories, poems, and music, but with tribes never staying in one spot for very long, permanent structures are rare — and that is why the Nabataeans are so fascinating. Their structures are mind-blowingly large and intricate, but their history is still quite elusive, probably mostly due to being scattered across the vast desert they lived in and traveled across, where archaeologists are still discovering new sites even now. 

It is believed the Nabataeans first emerged sometime between the 6^th and 4^th century B.C, with the civilization declining around A.D. 100. Petra dates to around 300 B.C. and was only re-discovered in 1812; while Hegra dated to roughly 100 B.C. Both cities were once busy metropolises, which later, when people moved on, turned into necropolises, leaving only the tombs behind.

4. What We Do Know Is Fascinating

Apart from carving incredible structures from rock, the Nabataeans were also known for using sophisticated systems to collect water. They constructed reservoirs as well as aqueducts, some of which are still there to see in Petra, and which allowed them to stay put in one place for longer and build more permanent structures. Considering the Nabataeans founded several cities, such as Petra, Hegra, Midian, and others. It seems a little wrong to call them nomads, but essentially, they were nomadic, like all tribes living in the desert. When the water ran out, the grazing dried up, and it was time to move on.

That said, it is understood that some of the cities functioned as stations that controlled the ancient trade routes, such as the Incense Route coming up from the south. They were, if you so wish, border posts, where traders could not only refuel and rest, but no doubt also had to pay for that privilege, as well as having to part with money to be allowed to pass through the Nabataeans’ land.

5. Hegra Is Near An Oasis

Many of the cities were near an oasis. Hegra is near AlUla, an oasis that sports some 6,000 palm trees even today and must have offered a welcome respite from the formidable and inhospitable surroundings. Visiting Hegra is a hot and dusty undertaking, with barely any shade available and tombs spread across the desert, which makes heading back to the green oases of AlUla a perfect pleasure. And when you visit an oasis or date palm farm, walking among the palm trees, it is easy — or at least easier — to imagine what life must have been like in Nabataean times.

6. Modern Goes Hand In Hand With Ancient

It might lessen the sense of discovery and old-world expeditions a little, but it is quite nice that you do have modern amenities near these ancient sites. Just as Petra has Wadi Musa, with its hotels and restaurants, access to tour guides, and yes, those always necessary souvenir shops; Hegra has AlUla, with its modern town center, amazingly diverse accommodation options, superb restaurants, and other historic sites, such as the old center of AlUla with its fortified castle. 

The modernity of tourism might take a bit of the shine off the ancient sites — I will let you know what it’s like when I finally make it to the less touristy Nabataean cities mentioned below – but it also adds a little something extra to your trip. Be it a glimpse of what life is like in a Saudi Arabian oasis, sampling the local cuisine, or even visiting the superb art installations and the hyper-modern mirrored building of Maraya, which literally reflects the old in the new.

7. Hegra Is Part Of A Set

As it always seems to go, once you tick one thing off your list, another one comes along. Did you know that there are two other amazing, and yet practically unheard of, Nabataean sites in Saudi Arabia? (And probably more yet to be unearthed.)

There is the oasis Dumat al Jandal in the Al-Jawf province, and Al Badʿ in the Tabuk province (thought to be the ancient city of Midian, with scholars still busy researching its history). Both sites lie in northwestern Saudi Arabia, not as easily reached as Hegra or, of course, Petra, but even more thrilling because of their remoteness and ongoing research that uncovers more about their history each day. So now, despite having ticked off Petra and Hegra from my list, I have added two more Nabataean sites, and am already knee-deep in research about how to get there.

Have you ever prepared a locally sourced ethnic meal while traveling in an unfamiliar place? Most travelers will respond with the word no. After a day of exploring, vacationers who love food usually select well-regarded restaurants to sample a region’s culinary gems. In most instances, they are thrilled to leave the time-consuming preparation to a professional culinary staff. 

Foodies who are interested in taking a deep dive into a country’s diverse cuisine will be attracted to cooking lessons offered by locals. Instead of waiting patiently at a restaurant table to be served, guests can either observe the process or work alongside a local cook. During the workshop, guests can also learn about regional traditions and cooking techniques.

While we were touring Israel’s Galilee, my husband, Ira, and I experienced a unique cooking class offered by Galileat, specializing in culinary adventures in the Galilee. Almost a decade ago, founder Paul Nirens combined the culinary skills he acquired at Israel’s Dvir Culinary School in Haifa and his cooking experience as a chef with the expertise he accrued while managing several food-related businesses to create a company offering an assortment of engaging experiences.

Note: Our cooking class experience was part of a partially hosted 12-day private Israel My Way tour. All opinions are my own. 

The Largest Cultural And Culinary Tour Operator In The Northern Galilee 

As the largest operator of culinary and cultural programs in Israel’s northern Galilee region, Galileat offers a variety of food tours, cooking workshops, gastronomic demonstrations, and seasonal programs designed to accommodate the time constraints of busy tour itineraries. Programs run from less than an hour to a full day.

Before checking into our Rosh Pina accommodations, our Israel My Way tour guide, Eric Tomer, drove us to a home in the town of Maghar, which is halfway between Karmiel and Tiberius, approximately 10 miles west of the Sea of Galilee. At the doorway, we were met by Paul, who introduced us to Miad, a local woman who would present her version of Galilean cooking.

Since Miad has a minimal understanding of English, Paul acted as our interpreter. Miad told us about her fascinating Druze background, provided instructions on how to prepare some of her favorite dishes, and asked questions about our life in the United States. 

1. Experience Hachnasat Orchim In A Druze Home

Hachnasat orchim, or “welcoming guests,” is a traditional practice that dates to biblical times. In Genesis, Abraham and Sarah’s tent was open to strangers, and their guests were made to feel comfortable and relaxed. This long-standing custom of welcoming people into one’s home has remained an integral part of Middle Eastern culture. Throughout Israel, Jews, Muslims, Druze, and Christians adhere to this practice.

After entering Miad’s home, we were asked to sit down and were immediately offered coffee and tea. The Arabic coffee had been cooked on the stove with a touch of cardamon while the tea was made from a white-leaved savory shrub referred to in Hebrew as zuta levana. Paul told us that this tiny welcoming gesture represents the principle of hachnasat orchim. Locals have always understood coffee as a sign of wealth. By offering us coffee, Miad was honoring us.

2. Learn About Israeli Food

Throughout the workshop, Paul talked about Israeli foods. He reminded us that Sephardic Jews were influenced by their respective Mediterranean background. These Jews from Persian, Iraqi, Aleppo, Egyptian, Libyan, and Moroccan backgrounds, as well as Jews from other Mediterranean countries, used local foods to create their unique cooking styles.

“Just as Norwegian cooking is different from Spanish cooking; Sephardic cuisines are dependent on where the Jews first lived. As a result, it is not possible to identify a Jewish Galilean cuisine. What is described as modern Israeli cuisine is a mix of the Arab food and the influences of culinary traditions of Jews from around the world,” he told us.

In addition to workshops focusing on Druze cooking, Paul offers classes with Muslim, Christian, and Bedouin hosts. Even though these cultures are distinct, Paul doesn’t believe that there are significant differences between the ethnic groups. While he is aware of some regional differences, the defining element appears to be centered on each home cook’s past experiences.

However, he highlighted one key point: Druze families tend to use more cinnamon in their cooking than the other Arabic-speaking groups in the region. Miad asked us to place an abundance of this spice along with the customary baharat (a special combination of Middle Eastern spices) into the mixing bowls and cooking pots. We were also advised to use more olive oil than we would have at home.

3. Participate As A Couple In An Immersive Cultural Experience

Prior to our arrival, Miad had arranged the ingredients for the recipes on a narrow table covered with a purple tablecloth and had set her wooden dining table for our festive feast. For dinner, we would be eating stuffed vine leaves and zucchini, vegetable salad, majadara (lentils and bulgur wheat), cauliflower and tahini, mnazaleh (eggplant and chickpeas stew in tomato sauce), katai’if (stuffed fried pancakes), and homemade Middle Eastern cookies referred to as mahmoul or ma’amul. 

Fun Fact: These sweet treats are made with dates and mahleb, a spice sourced from a cherry stone. We were told that the last ingredient has a similar taste to marzipan. 

When asked if this menu represents a typical Druze evening meal, Paul responded, “My hosts over-cater as a sign of respect. Stuffed grape leaves will be served at almost every meal. I would label our upcoming meal as Galilean. All the Arabic-speaking groups cook and eat very similar dishes that are affected by the seasons. Since you are interested in Druze cooking, I’d like to add that Druze are forbidden to eat a few green leaf dishes — Egyptian Mallow (mulachya), cilantro, and watercress. The folklore states that these foods raise the male libido (yes, seriously) or more politely, it is forbidden to eat foods that raise an individual’s passions.”

For approximately 2 hours, Ira and I stood side by side with Miad and Paul to assist in the preparation of the recipes on her menu. Initially, we sliced, diced, and chopped an assortment of vegetables and then cored out the zucchinis with an unfamiliar narrow, long utensil. A rice mixture was placed inside the hollowed-out zucchinis. 

Later, we wrapped grape leaves and added and mixed numerous ingredients for the different recipes. Blocks of time were spent at the hot stove cooking the dishes and then pouring the finished products onto the serving platters. Even though Ira usually leaves the cooking to me, he remained engaged throughout the process.

4. Empower A Woman To Operate A Business

(And Promote Authentic Cooking)

Galileat cooking workshops bring people from around the world together in a Galilee home where they can experience camaraderie. Our inability to speak directly with Miad did not diminish our mutual appreciation of family and food. Even though her three children were not in the room, she pointed to pictures on the wall and provided a few details. She shared information about her husband Snir, a high-ranking border policeman who spends several nights a week in Jerusalem’s Old City defending the country.

Our ability to work together to create a bountiful meal reinforced our belief that our differences were irrelevant when our commonalities created a harmonious experience.

While helping Miad prepare the meal, I asked Paul what prompted Miad to open her home to outsiders. He responded by stating, “She is proud to show off her family along with her culture to other people.” As the food was cooking, he added, “This is a great example of empowering local women. A woman who barely finished high school can connect with travel writers, millionaires, and world leaders in her own home. By doing these workshops, she has created her own micro business. This scenario was unimaginable before I initiated this business.”

This backstory showcases another reason why this type of experience is worth booking.

5. Taste Farm-To-Table Mediterranean Recipes In A Galilee Home

The Galilee has a rolling terrain resembling Italy’s Tuscany region. The fertile fields are filled with top-quality agricultural produce. Since biblical times, the region has been associated with olives, olive oil, pomegranates, dates, grapes, avocados, and herbs, as well as an abundance of other fruits and vegetables. 

A portion of the ingredients used for our meal came from Miad’s own garden while other items were purchased at a nearby village store selling freshly harvested products. Each of the items displayed on Miad’s prep table had a robust color and exhibited a crisp texture when sliced. 

When it was time to sit down at the table, we couldn’t believe how much had been accomplished. Under Miad’s direction, we had worked together to create six homemade vegetarian dishes that we had placed in the middle of the table. Some still had steam rising from the top. The aroma associated with the combination of olive oil and spices like cardamom, cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon, and Miad’s baharat consumed the room. 

As we sampled each entrée, we could taste the robust flavor emanating from the fresh produce and herbs. From the simple tomato, cucumber, green onion, parsley, and mint salad with a smattering of sumac to the traditional stuffed vine leaves and zucchinis flavored with both baharat and dried chili flakes, our taste buds were invigorated as we savored every mouthful. 

At the conclusion of the meal, we sipped on a specially prepared herbal tea combined with wild sage while munching on mahmoul cookies made earlier in the day.

As the sun was beginning to set, we thanked Miad for her gracious hospitality and said goodbye to Paul. The hours spent cooking and eating together opened our eyes to the benefits of a cooking class in Israel.

Pro Tip: If you choose to book a similar experience, remember to inform the host of your food allergies and dietary restrictions.

Ever since I first moved to the Middle East some 22 years ago, I have been wanting to explore Saudi Arabia. This vast, quintessentially Arabian country, which is roughly a fifth the size of the U.S. (3.2 times larger than Texas), has always tempted me with tiny teasers as to its history and natural beauty. But getting there as a tourist, and especially as a female tourist, was always practically impossible.

In recent years, this has changed, like so much of Saudi Arabia has. Now, you can get an e-visa within minutes. Single female travelers are not only welcome, but can even rent a car and drive, something quite unheard of a few years ago — even though driving in the cities is rather scary, to be honest.

Opening up to visitors and the frequent advertising have revealed even more treasures dotted around the huge peninsula. I could no longer resist, and by now, have not only visited different places and regions, but also came close to relocating to Saudi Arabia. Alas, that did not happen, but my to-do list of what to see on the peninsula has only just started being ticked off.

Traveling to Saudi Arabia is a lesson in acceptance, a perfect chance to embrace and learn about another culture and religion, its traditions, and history. The journey will be fascinating beyond measure. Leave your preconceptions behind and come with an open mind and just enjoy being some of the first few people to discover the hidden treasures of this amazing country.

Here are my favorite experiences in Saudi Arabia so far. My explorations are still in their infancy, and I cannot wait to return soon.

1. Getting Lost In Al Balad, Jeddah

The old center of Jeddah, the quarter of Al Balad, roughly translated as “The Town,” is a stunning example of what cities in southern Arabia looked like centuries ago. Founded back in the 7th century, the 650-odd historical buildings that remain were built from coral, limestone, and wood several floors high, with mashrabiya windows and balconies. The intricate screens allowed the women inside to see what was going on outside, without being seen themselves, as well as allowing a breeze to cool the inside of the buildings. 

Currently, the buildings are being restored, bit by bit. Some are still lived in, others have been transformed into art centers, and many have small restaurants, cafes, and shops within them. Meandering through the narrow lanes, many decorated with pretty lights, is a bit like time traveling. It is easy to imagine what life must have been like here centuries ago, and the blue and aqua-colored buildings are utterly photogenic.

Pro Tip: Pop into the Jameel House of Traditional Art, where you can not only look inside one of the restored buildings, but also see artists at work.

2. Walking Jeddah Waterfront

The waterfront promenade along the Red Sea Coast in Jeddah is a wonderful place to walk, look out to the sea, stop for coffee and snacks, and watch local life going on. This is where everybody comes to walk. Roughly 4.7 miles of seafront pavement, it is dotted with art, a “JEDDAH” sign perfect for selfies, countless adorable little food and coffee vans, an aquarium, palm trees, and gorgeous mosques — such as the pretty Island Mosque. Perfect for people to get a bit of a fresh air respite from the heat, exercise, and then recover over a donut or ice cream. 

Some top hotels, such as the Shangri-La, have properties here with superb views. Luxury restaurant Nobu has a wonderful restaurant along this corniche, looking like a giant hobbit house made from wood, but essentially, it is a promenade that is all about walking and enjoying the views.

Pro Tip: A little further on from the Shangri-La, you’ll find the Red Sea Mall, one of Jeddah’s favorite modern malls with great shops as well as some welcome air conditioning after your walk.

3. Diving Into The Red Sea

The Red Sea is an arm of the Indian Ocean, an underground rift valley separating Africa from Asia. Roughly 1,200 miles long and at most 190 miles wide, it connects to the Mediterranean Sea via the Suez Canal, and borders Egypt, Sudan, and Eritrea to the west, and Saudi Arabia and Yemen to the east. Despite being a very salty sea — with rare rainfall and no connecting rivers — due to its high evaporation levels, the Red Sea houses some of the world’s best scuba diving and snorkeling sites, with a plethora of marine wildlife found there. 

The coastline and the sea are beautiful enough for Saudi Arabia to invest in two giga-projects, NEOM and the Red Sea Development, both of which will be turned into tourism hubs with many hotels and water sports facilities starting in late 2022 and 2023. Until those beach hotels are open, just outside of Jeddah, you will find beach resorts such as the Red Sea Resort where you can go swimming and scuba diving without having to worry about offending anybody.

Pro Tip: Why not discover the beauty of the Red Sea on a cruise which takes you from Jeddah up north to Yanbu, stopping off in wonderful AlUla (see below) on the way. 

4. Marveling At Hegra

Ever since I visited Petra in Jordan and heard that this Nabatean kingdom’s second city was located in Saudi Arabia, I have been somewhat obsessed with seeing the mysterious Hegra, not far from the city of AlUla. For years I could not go, which sharpened my senses and my desire, and seeing the tombs carved from rocks in the desert — so unlike Petra but still utterly magical — was like a great big sigh freed from me. 

You will have seen the images of one gigantic rock standing in the middle of the desert with a façade carved into it. That is the main draw of Hegra. But now imagine 110 more tombs carved from numerous rocks, even one of the narrow pathways known as the Siq such as they have in Petra, all in the middle of nowhere, roughly 2,000 years old, and in superb condition.

Pro Tip: In the cooler season, you can come on a tour and then rent bicycles to explore the vast area at your leisure. There is much to see, even if you are not allowed to enter the tombs, it takes time. There is also a lovely souvenir shop and the remains of a former trans-desert railway on the site.

5. Nighttime Coffee At Elephant Rock

The region around AlUla is dotted with many otherworldly-looking rock formations, such as Elephant Rock. You can maybe imagine why it is called that, and yes, it really does look like an elephant. This rock comes into its own at night, when a café just at the bottom of it opens after sunset and serves great coffee and fresh juices, while the SALT restaurant prepares the best burgers in town. 

What makes this special are the hollows dotted throughout the sand into which seating areas are built, all lit up with twinkle lights. Here, you can snuggle down, and look up at the gigantic elephant towering 170 feet above you.

Pro Tip: If you want to see another superb rock formation, do not miss The Arch, or Rainbow Rock. If you are self-driving, make sure you get good directions, as it took me ages and many wrong turns to find it. For an easier and even more out-of-this-world experience, book a stargazing tour at the arch. There is no light pollution in this part of the world and the sky is magnificent.

6. Dining At ‘Somewhere’

I happened upon what is now one of my all-time favorite restaurants by pure chance in AlUla. Walking through the old town, I felt somewhat uninspired, but was drawn to an ochre-colored plain building, which I assumed to be an art gallery. Instead of an art gallery, I found a superb restaurant called ‘Somewhere’, with a stunning garden full of tall palm trees lit by enormous round light installations, giving a wonderfully romantic air. 

The restaurant serves a modern take on traditional local foods, from shrimp in a fine kunafa pastry to tasty shawarma served in a bao bun. So yum.

Pro Tip: Another superb restaurant can be found at Habitas AlUla.

7. Flying At Breakfast During Ramadan

Should you find yourself in Saudi Arabia during the holy month of Ramadan, which shifts by roughly 10 days every year and currently falls around April/March, you might be lucky enough to be on a flight around Iftar time. Iftar is the traditional time for breaking the fast at sunset. Instead of meals being served on the flight, everybody gets a pretty bag filled with a date or two, some sugary treats, a piece of bread, and some juice and/or labneh, a milky drink. 

Once the captain announces that the sun has set, the rustling starts across the plane, with everybody starting to open their bag and nibbling the treats after a day’s fasting. It is quite a special moment to be part of.

Pro Tip: Even Muslims are allowed to eat during the day when traveling during Ramadan, and meals are served on Saudi Arabian airlines. You will also find plenty of open cafes and restaurants in the airports.

For more Middle East experiences to check off your bucket list, check out these stories:

• 7 Amazing Once-In-A-Lifetime Experiences In Bahrain
• This Ancient City Is The Prettiest Location I’ve Ever Visited
• 9 Amazing Things To Do In Cairo After You’ve Visited The Pyramids

Saudi Arabia has finally opened its door to travelers keen to explore its many natural and historic wonders, which were long hidden behind a policy that made travel practically impossible. Now, with a huge tourism drive taking place, much-relaxed laws, and a more welcoming attitude, the kingdom is waiting to be discovered. From the likes of places such as the historic town of Al-Balad in Jeddah to the stunning tombs at Hegra, from true desert to astounding rock formations, and even Jordan, where it snows in the desert, there is much to see and do.

But like with all travel, there are plenty of tips and tricks that are good to know about before you embark on your first trip. I’ve lived in several countries across the Middle East for several years, and visited and revisited Saudi Arabia since it has opened up. Here, I have gathered some useful things to know about before you get on that flight to Saudi Arabia. Be they the simple how-tos or cultural differences to be taken into account, the lay of the land, or the need-to-knows about religious events or laws that are very much unlike your own.

Read on and start planning.

1. The Size And Geography Of Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia is a vast land, a fifth the size of the U.S., 3.2 times larger than Texas, and believe it or not, a lot hotter and drier. Taking up the majority of the entire Saudi Arabian Peninsula — between the Red Sea and the Arabian Gulf bordering Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Iraq, Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar, the UAE, Oman, and Yemen — the country has a size of 829,999 square miles, a coastline of 1,640 miles, and is 95 percent made up of desert. The Rub Al Khali, the Empty Quarter, makes up a large part of Saudi Arabia’s desert and happens to be the largest sand desert in the world.

2. The Desert Climate

Not surprisingly, the prevalent climate is a desert climate, but in the southwest, it is a semi-arid one. There is occasional rainfall, mostly in late winter or early spring, and when it does rain, it tends to pour down torrentially for a few hours and then it stops again for a year. In the region of Tabruk to the north, it even snows on occasion, with a strange phenomenon evident at times of snow covering sand and then again sand covering snow.

But the main thing to know about the climate in Saudi is that it gets hot. Seriously hot. When you see online temperature graphs with maximum temperatures stating 100 degrees Fahrenheit, don’t believe it. In summer, it often rises above 130, and that is in the shade, if you can find some. Do not travel to Saudi Arabia between the end of May and later in October, but book early — because everybody else does. Secure yourself a spot in the winter months, when the temperatures reach an acceptable 75-ish during the day.

3. Easy Visa Application

Once you’ve settled on a date, it’s time to get your visa, and now, it’s never been easier. Citizens of 49 countries worldwide, including North America, most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand are eligible for this fast service. Get your flight and hotel details and your passport ready, hop onto the Visit Saudi Visa page, complete the details, pay a fee of around $150 per person, and within under an hour, you will receive your visa. And if you consider the fee quite high, this is a multiple entry visa lasting a full year from the date of travel.

Pro Tip: At the time of writing, there were still some COVID requirements in place, such as the need to either provide a negative PCR test or proof of vaccination (triple vaccination), pre-arrival registration, and the requirement to download the Tawakkalna app, proving your immunity. But the mask requirement in many public places has been dropped, and regulations are updated constantly, so please check before you fly.

4. Getting Around

Considering the size of the country, the terrain, and the climate, I strongly advise against undertaking longer road trips, unless you are either used to driving in the region or are accompanied by somebody who is. That said, if you are, for example, basing yourself in AlUla and want to explore, you are better off renting a car at the airport, making it much easier to get around. You can drive with your valid driving license and rent a car as long as you are above the age of 21. Driving is on the right in Saudi Arabia, with most cars being automatics.

Driving in Saudi Arabian cities requires a little je ne se quoi; a bit of a daredevil attitude as you will be confronted with utter recklessness and defiance of the strict rules, from speeding to signaling, to pushing in or bullying if you are too slow. It takes a little getting used to, but you will.

Between locations, say Jeddah and AlUla or Riyadh and Tabruk, there are regular domestic flights which are easy and frequent.

Many visitors come as part of a group, with tours already in place and usually organized back home, but you can also organize numerous tours when you are in the country already.

5. Respecting Local Sensitivities

Saudi Arabia is a Muslim country and as such there are a few cultural sensitivities to be heeded when visiting. While the need to cover up in an all-encompassing abaya — the traditional black robe — is no longer required, the dress code is simple: Both men and women should wear clothes that cover the shoulders and go below the knee. Swearing is not okay, nor are rude hand-signals, even if you might be tempted while being cut off on the road.

It always adds a lot of color to a photograph if you have locals in it, and there is no harm at all in taking pictures of locals, just please ask before you shoot. The older generation especially still has superstitions about having their image captured, and you do not want to upset people.

6. Female Travelers – Accompanied Or Alone

Things have changed so much, it is truly amazing. Gone is the need to cover up in a long abaya, nor do women need to cover their hair. That said, while respectful clothing can be worn without problems in larger cities such as Jeddah and Riyad, once you head further into the country, where life is still a lot less modern, maybe take an abaya just to make sure you don’t feel like a sore thumb sticking out. As a matter of fact, I rather like wearing an open, floaty abaya, it feels wonderful, and I immediately feel more respectful.

Even single women travelers can get a visa and travel around the country without problems. Now, you can rent a car and drive yourself, if you wish, and all in all, it feels very safe everywhere, with people being more interested in you out of true curiosity, rather than harassment. But obviously, normal common sense still applies as it does everywhere, because all you need is one bad individual for things to go badly wrong, and those individuals lurk in every country around the world.

7. The Holy Month Of Ramadan

The Holy Month of Ramadan falls on the 9th month of the Islamic lunar calendar and lasts around 10 days every year when compared to the Gregorian calendar. At the moment, Ramadan falls in April/March, moving closer toward the beginning of our year. This time period is the most important one for Muslims, who fast between the hours of sunrise and sunset, when they celebrate Iftar, the breaking of the fast. 

During the day, many shops are closed, but instead stay open until late into the night, and restaurants in cities also remain closed. Eating, drinking, and smoking is frowned upon even for foreigners, but attitudes have softened remarkably in recent years. 

Whether or not you visit during Ramadan, or even the following celebration of Eid-al-Fitr, is up to you. Yes, there are certain inconveniences, but on the other hand, you have a chance to witness the celebrations and traditions at first hand, and going out for Iftar in the local restaurant scene is always a true feast.

8. Alcohol, Or The Lack Thereof

Saudi Arabia is an alcohol-free country. You won’t get a beer or glass of wine anywhere, not on a plane if flying Saudia Airlines, not in any of the fancy five-star resorts, nor in the celebrity chef restaurants. You might have heard about Western expatriates brewing their own alcohol in some of the large, gated communities, but unless you are visiting a friend on one of those compounds, your vacation stay in Saudi Arabia will be a dry one.

Pro Tip: Please note that the laws against carrying, using, or distributing drugs are stringent, so, even for your prescription medication, bring a letter from your doctor just in case you get stopped at immigration.

Check out some of these once-in-a-lifetime opportunities in the Middle East:

• 7 Amazing Once-In-A-Lifetime Experiences In Bahrain
• This Ancient City Is The Prettiest Location I’ve Ever Visited
• Everything You Need To Know Before Embarking On A Nile River Cruise

Qatar Airways is the airline that took me to the Middle East for the first time, when my then 4-year-old daughter and I flew out to join my husband for a new and exciting job abroad. This was 22 years ago. I still remember today how impressed I was with the food, despite being used to Lufthansa’s service, and how lovely the cabin crew were to my daughter, taking pictures, bringing her toys, and providing her with a meal she enjoyed.

With life sometimes taking odd turns, I ended up working for Qatar Airways a few years later, looking after the inflight magazine, writing press releases, and traveling the world, taking media representatives on inaugural flights.

Having flown the airline countless times, in all three classes, from upstairs on the A380, being plied with champagne by the lovely crew at the stand-alone bar, to downstairs in economy. I find it difficult to fault Qatar Airways, and have pulled together some reasons why I love flying with them. And it’s not just me, but Qatar Airways has been voted Best Airline by Skytrax several years running now. 

And, just in case you are wondering, no, I did not receive any free flights or other enticements for this article at all. Sadly.

1. The Non-Airplane Food

In 2021, Qatar Airways Catering Company served 16 million meals, and remember, this was during the COVID-19 pandemic. Preparing meals in a state-of-the-art catering complex that has the capacity of preparing some 175,000 meals per day, you can expect that the chefs know what they are doing by now; and they do. Even in economy, unless you are on a very short trip, a meal starts off with pre-dinner drinks, and your menu states specifically what options you have. You can expect vegan, vegetarian as well as calorie-controlled options, although with some, you need to book ahead. In business and first class, you can expect champagne served with warm nuts before take-off, and an extensive menu, with options that are often too difficult to choose from. So much so, that I have been known on one flight to sample two different main courses; and loved both.

2. The Many Destinations

Qatar Airways is lucky with its location on the Saudi Arabian Peninsula, making it a perfect transit hub for connections between America, Europe, Asia, and Australia. More than 160 international destinations take you pretty much everywhere. But I might as well put one big negative point in this section, as many of Qatar Airways’ flights are scheduled right in the middle of the night with absolutely awful departure and arrival times, leaving you to feel pretty rough the next day.

3. The Sustainability Efforts

While flying is not good for the planet, living in a place like Qatar, where you basically can not get anywhere else unless you fly, it is a necessary part of life. As a travel writer, I am also very aware of traveling sustainably, so I am always pleased when I hear about Qatar Airways making efforts in that direction. For example, 80 percent of the food trays comply with the ban on single use plastics, while much of the unused food is redistributed rather than wasted. In the airport, recycled wastewater is used for irrigation, and the cleaning is done with water from air conditioning units. The Oryx Airport Hotel is striving toward 100 percent sustainability, with efforts including bamboo key cards, recyclable water boxes instead of plastic bottles, and little, biodegradable toiletries in the bathrooms.

4. The World’s Best Airport

And talking about the airport, Hamad International Airport ranks within my favorite airport experiences, not only because it is a nice — and award-winning — airport, with all the amenities you could wish for, but because of all its art. It makes for a different experience when hanging around waiting for your gate to open than in most airports. Here you can saunter through the various concourses, looking at world-class installations, from Lamp Bear by Urs Fischer to Small Lie by KAWS, and a dozen or so more.

5. The Flexibility

Especially during the COVID-19 pandemic, I really appreciated Qatar Airways’ flexibility. They have always been good with changes to your tickets because they seem to appreciate that things happen. But during the pandemic especially, when travel rules — and personal health status — often changed within hours, being able to change tickets, times, and dates at short notice without any extra cost was just wonderfully stress free.

6. The Chance Of A Stopover In Doha

Whenever you transit through a place you have never seen, it seems such a shame to not go and have a look. And with Doha being such a busy transit hub, many people pass through without that second look. But the chance of a stopover, even if it is just long enough for a brief city tour, is something Qatar Airways tries to promote. They offer stopovers ranging between hours and days, giving travelers a chance to either have a brief taster of the capital Doha, or a longer encounter with the desert and many other attractions.

7. The Traditional Approach

Apart from being welcomed on board with traditional cardamom coffee and dates, one thing I truly love is the traditional approach of Qatar Airways, representing its country as well as its culture. I have stepped onto a plane and found a falcon perching in business class before, and nobody blinked an eye. These national birds of Qatar are indeed allowed into the cabin, getting their own seat. But you are limited as to how many you can bring at any one time — just in case you were wondering!

Pro Tip: Qatar Airways’ loyalty program, previously called Privilege Club, was changed in 2022 to Avios. If you have already collected Privilege Points, they will automatically be converted, but you can now also merge this account with the British Airways loyalty program. This allows you to the same card to collect and redeem Avios points on airlines such as British Airways, Iberia Plus, Aer Club and Vueling, as well as other members such as American Express, Nectar, Avis Budget Group, and Marriott.

While you’re looking at flying, check out TravelAwaits’ airport rankings:

• These Are The 10 Busiest Airports In The World, And Only Two Are Outside Of The U.S.
• 8 Fantastic Things To Do During A Long Layover At JFK Airport, According To A Pilot
• These 10 U.S. Airports Are The Best In On-Time Performance

The desert state of Qatar, a tiny thumb-shape extension off the eastern coast of the Saudi Arabian Peninsula, is probably most famous for its airport, which has long been a transit hub between east and west. More recently, the country has garnered attention for being the host of the 2022 FIFA (Soccer) World Cup.

I have called Qatar home twice now and have seen incredible changes taking place over the last 20 years. Not only have remarkable historic finds been made quite recently, from archaeological treasures to petroglyphs, but this small country, which is just slightly smaller than Connecticut, has turned itself into a veritable art hub with superb art installations and world-class museums.

Qatar is a modern country that is embracing its ancient traditions and culture, offering a super-modern metropolis reflected in its capital Doha, desert escapes, a surprising number of natural wonders such as wildlife reserves home to the oryx (known as the unicorn of the desert), plenty of history, and a host of luxurious treats.

Here are my top reasons why you should not just transit through the airport but stay a few days and have a good look around. You’ll be amazed at what you will find.

1. Delve Into Doha

The capital, Doha, is a great city where old and new come together very well, with plenty of things to see and do. An absolute must-do upon arrival is a walk along the 4.5-mile-long Corniche, the seaside promenade that has the beautiful Doha Bay on one side and the amazing skyline of the city on the other. Then there is Katara Village, a cultural hub filled with traditional architecture from old-fashioned pigeon towers to two superb mosques, one decorated in Persian-style blue tiles, the other completely covered in gold, which looks superb at sunset. There are galleries, murals, restaurants and cafes, and a lovely city beach, all ready to be explored. Don’t miss BOHO Social at the end of Katara Beach, a perfect place for lunch with a view.

One of my favorite districts to walk through is Mshereib, a design and art area, held together by the same architecture throughout and home to countless great cafes (try Rusk for breakfast), art galleries such as M7 (which just hosted the Christian Dior exhibition), and a perfect small mall, Galleria.

2. Visit The Superb Museums

Ever since it was opened in 2008, the Museum of Islamic Art has been one of my favorite museums. Not only is the architecture by the late I.M. Pei of Paris Louvre Pyramid fame superb, but the museum houses incredible treasures dating back some 1,400 years, from early manuscripts and stunning jewelry to ancient ceramics and delicate textiles, each piece more stunning than the next. Just down from this museum, a mile along the Doha Corniche hemming the turquoise bay, lies a second gem, the National Museum of Qatar. This architectural jewel by Jean Nouvel and built in the shape of a desert rose — a gypsum formation found in the desert — tells the long history of Qatar, encompassing nature, traditions, culture, and the future. It also houses one of my favorite restaurants, Jiwan, which serves local cuisine in a stunning setting.

3. Explore Souq Waqif

Souq Waqif lies in the heart of the old town and is a traditional souk, or market quarter, that is humming with stalls selling everything from cloth to pearls, and countless cafes and restaurants. It is a bustling area where locals meet, shop, buy falcons, and stable their exquisite Arabian thoroughbred horses. There are even camels used by the national police. You can spend hours here weaving in and out of the warren-like lanes and just marvel at the many sights. For food and some great people-watching, stop at Damasca One, which makes the best hummus and shawarma in town.

4. Experience Local Customs

Arabian culture is a complex one, with many little details of local etiquette that are forever fascinating. To learn a little more, book yourself into an experience with a superb little community that works on bringing local customs and traditions closer to people. Embrace Doha is run by locals and offers meetings with locals to talk about anything and everything, from traditional fashion to the much-prized coffee ceremony.

5. Go Art Spotting

The art in Qatar starts in the airport upon landing. More than 20 art installations are dotted throughout Hamad International Airport, from the gigantic yellow Lamp Bear by Urs Fisher to the Small Lie by Kaws and many more. In Doha, you can find street art murals, quite a revolutionary concept in the Middle East, and installations by artists such as Damien Hirst, Louise Bourgeois, and Richard Serra. Richard Serra indeed has two major installations in Qatar including one called “7” in Doha’s most beautiful park behind the Museum of Islamic Art, which invites for strolls with amazing views, as well as my personal favorite: East-West West-East, which is set in the remote desert reached after driving off-road far away from any city. Four large steel columns stand alone within a rocky otherworldly landscape and are of a stark beauty. They can be reached by driving oneself or by an organized tour. 

6. Have Fun In The Desert

When in Qatar, a visit to the desert is a must, and while a drive to Zekreet to see art gives you a first impression, the UNESCO-listed Inland Sea has a much nicer desert full of undulating sand dunes rather than rocky outcrops. You can have so much fun there, from off-road driving (which is best left to experienced local drivers that will take you at steep angles up and down the dunes) to sandboarding or simply camping and stargazing. The Inland Sea is an inlet from the Gulf and in winter attracts countless visiting flamingos and other birds. It’s also good for scuba diving or paddle boarding, and perfect for an all-around desert experience if you stay overnight in glamping tents.

7. Discover History

Just this month, one of the oldest natural pearls has been discovered in a tomb dating back some 4,600 years, but sadly, it is not on display yet. What the discovery shows is that there is a lot more history to Qatar than always thought, despite the nomadic nature of the Bedouins which long inhabited this part of the world. Qatar is full of archaeological digs and some quite stunning petroglyphs. In the northern region of Al Jassasiya, there are low-lying rocks that have been carved with many strange images: from fish to sailboats, and many games set-ups that are reminiscent of the game Mancala. You can visit on your own, as it is an open site, or come by a tour that would also take you to other nearby historic places, such as the UNESCO-listed Zubara Fort.

8. Stay In Luxury

Doha has examples of all the world’s best luxury hotels, and you can stay in utter luxury complete with private beaches and superb spas. From inner-city luxury such as the Mandarin Oriental Doha in Mshereib to a more traditional resort feel at Sharq Village & Spa, the choices are endless. For one of the best places for a private beach, try the Intercontinental Doha, which has the longest private beach in town.

9. Eat Very Well

I have already mentioned a few favorite restaurants and cafes throughout this article, but there are so many more in Doha. There are celebrity names such as Nobu, Hakkasan, Morimoto, and Cut by Wolfgang Puck, and international restaurants ranging from Italian to Persian, from Japanese to Afghan, and from German to Peruvian. Doha is such an international community that pretty much every global cuisine is represented here. Personal favorites currently include La Mer at the Intercontinental for its food and gorgeous terrace, Jiwan at the National Museum for Qatari cuisine, and Nobu for its fantastic Friday brunches.

10. Shop Until You Drop

Shopping is a national pastime here, and other than the traditional Souq Waqif, the malls here are hyper-modern. Try Festival City, which is a great all-rounder, Villagio with Venetian gondolas running through the indoor canal, or Lagoona Mall for all the top luxury labels.

11. Be Pampered

When you are worn out from desert adventures and city trips, you can get yourself pampered in Doha. Try the Golden Opulence Ritual at the Al Messila Spa at the Al Messila, where you can enjoy a 24-karat gold hot stone massage complete with 24 karat gold body oil or an indulgent gold facial. One of the best spas in town is at the Mandarin Oriental, which offers a massage using pearl-powder-infused oil in the Harmony Pearl Treatment. 

Pro Tip: A very simple tip, but rather useful, is that the weekend here falls on Friday and Saturday, so for a weekend brunch, you’d book yourself in for Friday. Also, make sure you know when Ramadan falls. The holy month shifts by around 10 days every year and whilst interesting to witness, it is not the best time to visit because eating and drinking are not allowed in public between sunrise and sunset, and many places are closed during the day.

Aswan truly took my breath away. The view from my hotel balcony will probably always be my favorite. It was so picture-perfect Egyptian that it is difficult to imagine better.

The city is in the south of Egypt, ironically called Upper Egypt, on the Nile. It marks the border of the ancient region of Nubia, which stretches south from here to Khartoum in Sudan. Being within Nubia, an inter-country region, Aswan is very different from other cities in Egypt, and it has the added bonus of being located alongside an incredibly beautiful part of the Nile. It overlooks small granite islands, feluccas sailing by with their triangular sails, and an array of ships stopping in Aswan (as the city’s dams ensure there is no further travel up the Nile). It is a bustling city with 1.5 million residents, but it is serene at the same time, offering pretty much everything you could possibly want from Egypt — and then some.

Aswan has its own international airport, so you can easily fly in from the international airport in Cairo; but by far the best way to arrive is by boat, preferably on a Nile cruise ship coming down from Luxor. Being a popular tourist spot, the city offers an array of hotels and places to stay, but it retains its old-world charm. Normal life continues one street down from the riverside promenade that bustles with visitors and offers you everything from “real” antiquities to felucca rides.

Here are some of the reasons I became utterly enchanted by this city.

1. Stay At The Old Cataract Hotel

I might as well start with my favorite part, and that was the stay in a historic hotel with simply the best views of Aswan. The Old Cataract Hotel, officially known as the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan Hotel, has a pedigree that is hard to beat. Not only is the hotel itself gorgeous and the views simply without match, but it has also played host to royalty from around the globe and to people such as Agatha Christie, who arrived in Aswan on the same ship as I did, the SS Sudan. I am not exaggerating when I say that I could have stayed on my balcony drinking in the view of the cataract, the rocky shallows that give the hotel its name, forever. I was only dragged away occasionally because I “had to” look around some ancient temples and the city itself, but seriously, if you do nothing else in Aswan, either stay in the Old Cataract Hotel or go for a meal on the terrace to enjoy the unique view.

Editor’s Note: Looking for awe-inspiring vistas from your window? The Old Cataract Hotel made Ulrike’s list of favorite rooms with a view around the world.

2. Walk Along The Corniche

The Corniche is the promenade along the Nile. It is only steps away from the Old Cataract Hotel and offers a great opportunity to stroll for a mile or two watching the boats, enjoying the sunset, and picking up some street food. You do get approached by vendors and guides trying to sell you tours and felucca rides, but they do not hassle you too much and will take no for an answer. Don’t get overwhelmed by the urge to flee the solicitors enjoy the lovely walk all the way to the Government Park. The best way back is then to move inward a few blocks and walk back through the Aswan Souk, which stretches parallel to the Corniche.

3. Explore The Aswan Souk

Known locally as Sharia as-Souq, the old bazaar is a bustling part of town where you can buy pretty much anything you could possibly need, from freshly cooked warm dishes to sweet honey snacks, from stationary to tissues, cloth and clothes, souvenirs, toys, and car parts. There are also traditional Nubian outfits, Sudanese trinkets and jewelry, as well as fresh produce, nuts, spices, and perfumes. This is Aswan’s answer to a big mall, and it’s such fun to explore. Overall the people are really welcoming and interested in you, but do make sure that you hang onto your valuables, as it gets crowded and all you need is one pickpocket to ruin your entire vacation.

4. Take A Boat Ride

Aswan is a bustling city full of people and flush with cars. There will be a time when you need to escape, and when that happens, just hop onto a felucca. These small, traditional sailboats are the perfect calming antidote to the onslaught of Egyptian city life. With the recognizable triangular sails and no engine, the felucca’s captain will take you along the Nile, dipping in and out of the various small islands and pointing out sights along the way, such as the Aga Khan’s Tomb. If you time it right and opt for a sailing trip late afternoon, you can enjoy “golden hour,” which brings out the best of the stunning land- and riverscape, and you will be able to watch the sunset (usually between 5.30 and 6 p.m.) from the boat. It does not get much better than that.

5. Have A Peek At The Two Dams

Ever since ancient times, the Egyptian people have depended on the Nile for their existence. The Nile’s waters have long been harnessed all through the valley for agricultural purposes and the basic maintenance of life. The problem with the Nile has always been the annual flood. The summer rains in the highlands of Ethiopia cause the Nile’s tributaries to swell and raise the downstream waters to unmanageable and unpredictable levels. So in 1902, the first dam at Aswan was completed. Simply called the Aswan Dam, it was one of the largest structures in the world at the time, but it still struggled to keep up. In 1960, the construction of the Aswan High Dam began, creating Lake Nasser. Being one of the world’s largest artificial lakes, this resulted in the temples of Philae and Abu Simbel having to be relocated, stone by numbered stone. While the dams are not that impressive when compared to the other wonders of Egypt, they nevertheless played a huge role in Aswan’s history and a substantial part in creating its serene beauty.

6. See Philae

The Philae Temple was one of the casualties of the first dam. Located on an island within the expanse of water between the old and newer dams, the temple originally sat some 1,600 feet away. But some time after the second dam was built, the temple was moved, bit by bit, to Agilkia Island. A fascinating undertaking, and very worth it. The temple, in Nubia just south of Aswan, offers superb views of the colorful Nubian houses, the various islands, and across the water. It is reached by boat. The temple and its island are overrun with friendly temple cats, all revered and pampered by the staff.

7. The Egyptian Cotton

Very much part of Aswan is the much-prized Egyptian cotton. Despite the best cotton being grown in Lower Egypt, in the north near the Mediterranean coast, it is in Aswan you find the best and most genuine cotton shops. And, just like French wine, Russian caviar, and German engineering, when you hear “Egyptian cotton,” you know to expect quality and luxury. But just with everything else, there are plenty of fakes around, so do not buy your cotton sheets in the souk; go to government-certified stores, such as Darwish Cotton, and check for “long-staple Egyptian,” “long-staple pima,” or “Supima cotton” mentioned on the label. A thread count of around 700 and over is good quality. Not cheap, but nice to have as a souvenir which brings back memories of Aswan every time you go to bed.

Pro Trips

From Aswan, you need to go a little bit further south, to Abu Simbel, another superb temple that was moved when the second dam was built. To get there, you can either fly from Aswan International Airport (but please keep a close eye on whether they change or cancel your flight there, which is what happened to me, without anybody telling me) or you can go by coach or car. The car-and-coach caravan leaves every morning under armed guard, as the stretch of road between Aswan and Abu Simbel is reportedly popular with bandits. You need to book ahead because every person in the caravan needs to be registered and accounted for by the day before. It all sounds much more dramatic than it is; the Egyptian police always take the utmost care of foreign visitors, and this is just a way to keep everybody safe, even if nothing happens.

There are so many stunning places in the world that I absolutely love, each for its own reason. I’ve written countless articles on cities full of color, for instance; they’re found in our colorful cities section. Beijing, on the other hand, was beautiful in the dead of winter.

The Kingdom of Bahrain is an island country located in the Persian Gulf. It originally consisted of 50 natural islands, but 33 newer artificial islands bring that number to 83. Bahrain sits between Qatar and Saudi Arabia but has no land border with either other than the King Fahd Causeway that connects Bahrain to Saudi Arabia. Bahrain is a true desert country with mild winters, very hot summers, flat land, and is over 90 percent covered with desert. That does not mean that there isn’t much to see or do in Bahrain; very much the opposite. For one, it’s a paradise for bird watchers; 330 species of birds live and breed there, mostly in the nature reserve of Hawar Island.

Bahrain is the location of one of the oldest civilizations in the Middle East, Dilmun. Many monuments, sites, and museums document that past. Until the last century and before the oil boom, pearl fishing was the main industry, and you can still see pearl fishing shows (traditional sailing vessels) and buy some of the best pearls in the world in the capital Manama’s fabulous souk (bazaar).

Bahrain developed the first post-oil economy in the Middle East, investing heavily in banking and tourism. The latest attraction to open is the world’s largest underwater theme park, Dive Bahrain, but there are many more theme parks to enjoy. There are desert tours and the unique Tree of Life, a 400-year-old tree that grows in the middle of the Sakhir desert without any visible source of water.

Bahrain’s international airport is located on the island of Muharraq, connected to Manama by a bridge. In fact, all the islands are connected by bridges and a good road network, so driving around is easy.

Fans of motorsport should note the date of March 20, 2022, when the Formula 1 Grand Prix takes place in Manama.

I love Bahrain because of the great variety of nature adventures to be had and because of the many monuments and sites that reflect Bahrain’s interesting history.

1. Dive Bahrain

If you are a diver, here is an experience like no other in Bahrain’s latest attraction, DIVE BAHRAIN. Don your gear and plunge into the world’s largest underwater theme park, spanning an area of 100,000 square meters close to the international airport in Muharraq.

Fittingly to the location, an entire decommissioned Boeing 707 has been submerged in the water so you can dive in and out. There were concerns that the metal could contaminate the water, but the plane’s surfaces have been cleaned with bio-friendly detergent. To take into account the pearl fishing past of Bahrain, a reconstructed traditional pearl merchants’ house has been submerged together with sculptures made from eco-friendly materials to further the growth of coral reefs and the preservation and development of marine life. Diving this extraordinary underwater theme park is like exploring a different, silent world where one surprising view follows another.

2. Hawar Islands, A Bird Lover’s Paradise

The Hawar Islands are an archipelago of some 36 islands that are located in the Gulf of Bahrain just off the west coast of Qatar. Most of the islands are uninhabited, but they belong to Bahrain. The islands are most famous for their vast colony of Socotra cormorants, one of the largest in the world. There are also plenty of beaches where the birds love to rest and which are the best places to see these rare and graceful creatures.

There is a resort on the main island, the Hawar Beach Hotel, where you can spend the night in comfort and also book boat trips to the other islands or bird watching tours. The journey by boat from the Bahrain main island takes approximately 45 minutes and departs from Durrat Marina Yacht Club.

In 2024, a brand new resort will be opened on the west coast of Hawar, the Mantis, run by the hotel group Accor. The priority of this project is to maintain the biodiversity of the islands, which is why it will be surrounded by a wildlife sanctuary. It’s not only the cormorants and other migratory birds which make the trip to Hawar so exciting, but also watching Arab oryx and sand gazelles.

3. Follow The Call Of The Desert

Over 90 percent of Bahrain is covered with desert, so, this fabulous four-hour desert tour gives you an unforgettable experience of the landscape as well as of some historical sites.

The tour starts at the Bahrain International Circuit, located in the middle of the Sakhir desert, and is accompanied by a tour guide. It leads you past the Royal Camel Farm, the first oil well, and, the wonder of nature that is the Tree of Life, a 400-year-old lone mesquite tree that grows in the middle of the desert without any visible source of water.

The next stop is the A’Ali Royal Burial mounds that take you back 4,000 years to the ancient Dilmun civilization. Wandering the streets in the afternoon when it is cooler, you will be surprised how many of these cone-shaped burial mounds you will discover.

There is yet another extraordinary thing to contemplate in the village of A’Ali: the distinctive pottery and the artists who make it using generations-old methods, sometimes even some using the burial chambers as kilns. After the end of the tour, you are returned to your hotel, not left in the middle of the desert.

4. Qal’at Al Bahrain, Fortress And Birds

The Bahrain Fort, located 6 miles from Manama, is a majestic sight. It is one of Bahrain’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is even more exciting if you visit at dusk. Looming out of the desert is a 40-foot-high mound, or “tell,” with the Portuguese fortress on top. The mound was formed by civilization after civilization (according to at least seven excavations) dating from 2300 BC to 1700. It was the capital of the Dilum civilization, was followed by many others, and has served as a trade port, residential area, religious center, and the location of several palaces and necropolises. Over time, the entire site was covered with sand and excavations only began in the 1950s and 1960s by Danish expeditions.

The Portuguese fortress on top is massive, with huge walls and a tower at each corner. The fact that so much more needs to be uncovered makes a visit even more exciting. As for the birds: adjacent to the tell lies a long beach which is where migrant and local birds like to rest and nest. Among them are the white reef egret and Bahrain’s national bird, the white-eared bulbul.

5. Al-Fateh Grand Mosque

The Al-Fateh Grand Mosque is one of the largest mosques in the world and is located in Juffair, a suburb of Manama. If you have never visited a mosque, this one should definitely be on your agenda because of its sheer dimensions and splendor. The mosque can accommodate 7,000 worshippers at a time. The huge dome is made from fiberglass and is the largest fiberglass dome in the world. The sparkling central chandelier is from Austria, the carved doors are made from teak wood imported from India, and the marble floor and part of the walls are from Italian marble.

The mosque is the site of the Bahrain National Library, and tourists and visitors have access to the books for free.

The mosque is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and can only be visited accompanied by an official tour guide. No visits are allowed during prayer time, on Fridays, or on public holidays. You can take pictures of the mosque but never of people praying. As for the dress code: no shorts or mini skirts are allowed and women need to cover up with an abayah (which is provided at reception). You also have to take your shoes off.

6. Wahoo Waterpark

It’s hot in Bahrain, so what better way to cool off than at Wahoo Waterpark? It’s conveniently located in the center of Manama so you haven’t got far to travel to refresh yourself after you have explored the many stunning sights of the city (on foot, of course). You’ll find the first indoor-outdoor water park in the Middle East with temperature-controlled pools. There are kiddy pools, slides for excitement, a wave pool and a lazy river, and in the middle on a tropical island, a sailing vessel overlooking the entire park. If you are hungry and thirsty, there is a nice restaurant too.

7. Succumb To Gold Fever In Gold City

A bride’s dowry is still paid out in gold in Bahrain; that’s why gold plays such an important role in the local culture. It is also a reason why Bahrain sells the purest gold, 22–24 carat. Gold City is a separate building from Bab Al Bahrain souk, exclusively occupied by gold merchants and jewelers and located on Government Avenue in the center of Manama. From elaborate necklaces and bracelets in traditional or modern design studded with pearls and diamonds to more modest bangles, ingots, and coins, the array of merchandise is dazzling and an experience not to be missed, even if your budget does not allow for big pieces.

You will want to visit Bab Al Bahrain nearby. Different from Gold City, the building marks the entrance to Bahrain Souk, where you can find any number of interesting shops, textiles, rugs, spices, and, of course, small enticing coffee shops. A special treat is the Kingdom of Perfume, where you can find popular brands from all over the world. The great experience – unless you are allergic to perfume – is sampling the locally made perfumes adapted to your taste and preference and made just for you.

A Nile cruise is on nearly every international traveler’s wish list. The wonders of ancient Egypt go way beyond the pyramids and the sphinx, with countless treasures lying further south, a stretch away from Cairo, lying either within reach of Luxor or Aswan, which is why most people opt for a cruise between the two cities, stopping off at the most important sites along the way.

Having visited Cairo before, a Nile cruise had been on my wish list for years until I finally found the right ship, which I knew I would enjoy, together with the right duration of cruise and itinerary to suit me. It took a lot of research and some luck to chance upon the cruise that was right for me: very small, few people, historic connections, a touch of the glamor of 1920s- and 1930s-style travel, and plenty of class. I found my ideal cruise on the SS Sudan, the last true paddle steamer on the Nile, the one Agatha Christie sailed on and where she wrote Death on the Nile — and where the subsequent movies were filmed. Small enough to allow for privacy, large enough for comfort, with a five-night, six-day itinerary between Luxor and Aswan.

But what is perfect for me isn’t necessarily perfect for everybody else. Some might want a pool, a shop, more people to socialize with, or maybe more modern cabins, and probably going from Aswan to Luxor, or even cruising the whole way from Cairo to Aswan. Timing is crucial as well, as is deciding what to do at either end. There are many things to consider before embarking on a Nile cruise, so, here I have listed a few points to mull over and research before you book yourself that trip of a lifetime.

Up Or Down River?

Let’s start with some nomenclature you will need to go along the right route: Cruising UP the Nile means you are going south, toward the source of the Nile, cruising DOWN the Nile is sailing toward the estuary in the Mediterranean. But, just to confuse things, UPPER Egypt is in fact southern Egypt, while LOWER Egypt is in the north, by the coast.

Most Nile Cruises, except for the ones setting off from Cairo and cruising all the way up the Nile, actually sail only in Upper Egypt, between Luxor and Aswan.

I am unsure about what the statistics are when it comes to preferences, but all the cruise ships in Upper Egypt either cruise between Luxor and Aswan or between Aswan and Luxor. Both Luxor and Aswan have airports you can fly nto from Cairo, the main international airport in Egypt, so the choice really is yours. That said, personally, I felt that going from Luxor to Aswan was my preferred option, simply because — in my mind — Aswan is so much prettier than Luxor, and from Aswan you can travel to the temples in Abu Simbel, leaving you with the best bit at the end of your journey. But many people would argue the opposite, and there really is no right or wrong.

Hotels At Either End

While many travelers, mostly those who are time poor, head straight from the airport to the cruise ship and, once docked after the cruise, fly straight back out again, I would like to plead for a night or two at either end. Not only does it give you the option of overcoming any jet lag or travel fatigue, but also there are some lovely historic hotels that are worth spending a night in. In Luxor, the famous Winter Palace is a historic hotel, a little frayed around the edges, but with a fabulous garden and a pedigree of former guests that is hard to beat. The only place that can beat the guest list of the Winter Palace is the Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan where Agatha Christie stayed at the end of her cruise, and you can take a tour through numerous suites named after illustrious guests who stayed there over the last century.

What Kind Of Boat

There are essentially four types of boats on the Nile that can take you from A to B. There are modern cruise ships, relatively small when compared to ocean-going cruise ships with around 50 cabins, but many with swimming pools, cabins with balconies, and shops and restaurants on board. There is the SS Sudan, alone in its class, without amenities such as pools or shops, but with only five suites and 18 cabins, plus a superb sundeck, a bar, and a restaurant. Then there are the dahabiyas, beautiful boats with a sail at either end — and even more private with many only catering to around 12 passengers. The dahabiyas come without engines, but often have a tugboat for added speed, and offer the most tranquil and secluded cruises. Lastly, there are the feluccas, small sailboats, where in some cases you can spend one night on board, but generally, these lovely and traditional sailboats are only used for day trips.

Where Are The Stops?

Between the most popular cruise harbors of Luxor and Aswan lie the most amazing sights, most of which are taken in by all the various cruises, because, after all, that is why everybody is there. The main stops are Qena, a little downriver from Luxor, with the Dendera and Abydos temples; Luxor, with the various valleys of tombs; Edfu with the fabulous Kom Ombo temple; and lastly Aswan, with a visit to Philae. On a five-night cruise upriver (so going south), you will stay overnight in Qena, Luxor, Edfu, and two nights in Aswan.

Length Of Cruise

Most cruises between Luxor and Aswan take between three and seven days, the shorter ones skipping Qena and only staying one night in Aswan, the longer ones adding extra nights, usually in Luxor.

If you are lucky enough to have the time to sail from Cairo to Aswan, the itinerary takes a minimum of 11 nights, but more often than not 14 nights, with sightseeing in Cairo included, usually reaching Luxor on Day 11. Despite the current of the Nile, which is evident but quite slow, the cruises up or down the river take the same amount of time.

When Best To Travel

The best time to visit Upper (southern) Egypt is between October and April. That said, I went at the end of October, and the temperatures were still in the 90s Fahrenheit, making sightseeing a bit of an exhausting undertaking. In the summer, these temperatures are much, much worse, so travel then is best avoided. In December and January, the coldest months, the temperatures hover around the mid-70s Fahrenheit. As for rain, the rainy season is between October and April, with a negligible spike at less than an inch of rain in October.

What You Must Pack

Even if yours is a fancy cruise, pack light, pack layers, and pack sensible shoes. It will be hot and sandy whenever you go exploring. In the Valley of the Kings, for example, there is much sand, no shade, and plenty of stairs and steps to conquer, so light clothing but good shoes that keep you firmly on the ground are useful. Bring a light cover for the evening and something nice for the boat. A clothes brush to get the sand and dust off you at the end of the outing and a handheld fan to bring you some air when it gets warm are essential. And, if you like a tipple or two, know that in Egypt imported wine and champagne are extortionately expensive, so, get your full allowance in the duty-free shop and enjoy along the way.

What To Do Before (Or After)

Chances are that you will fly into Cairo, and unless you are embarking in Cairo, some sightseeing is a must. Allow at least two extra days to see the main sights before heading south. And once you are in the south, note that all cruise ships stop at Aswan because of the dams. If you want to see Abu Simbel, you can either fly from Aswan to Abu Simbel or take a tour either by bus or private car, but you will need to book the car in advance. This is because the tourist road caravan sets off first thing in the morning and is escorted by police all the way between Aswan and Abu Simbel because of potential bandits, and all travelers need to be registered and accounted for by the day before at the latest.

What To Read And Watch About The Nile

To get you in the mood and keep you going while you’re there, here are some books and films set in exactly the places you will be visiting, so you can go, “Oh, I know that place!” as you read or watch.

• Death on the Nile by Agatha Christie
• The films Death on the Nile from 1978 with Peter Ustinov, 2004 with David Suchet, and 2022 with Kenneth Branagh
• Some very light but fun mysteries by Elizabeth Peters, with lots of places to be recognized
• The superb old travel book by Amelia B. Edwards A Thousand Miles up the Nile, first published in 1877

One fantastic historical TV series presented by Bettany Hughes is entitled The Nile and is full of information, making for perfect viewing before and after your trip.

Pro Tip: In many places, you will either have to pay for a photography permit, or, at times, won’t be able to take photographs. But don’t let that stop you from carrying your camera everywhere with you!

Luxor, the historic city of Thebes, lies in southern Egypt and is called Upper Egypt by the ancient Egyptians because it lies closer to the source of the Nile River. Luxor is, apart from the Pyramids of Giza outside of Cairo, the heart of the Egyptian tourism industry, with incredible amounts of history found — quite literally just a hundred or so years ago — within a handful of miles from the city center. Luxor is also the place where you tend to fly in to catch a boat for the ever-popular Nile cruises.

When I first looked at Luxor as the setting-off point for my Nile cruise, I was utterly amazed by just how many important archeological sites are on both sides of the river, if more so on the West Bank, where you find the Valley of the Kings, among others. What a place this must have been not just 3,000 years ago, but also in the 1920s when all these treasures were being discovered. Even today, the excavations continue, with more and more important sites being discovered every day. 

Luxor itself is an interesting city, with the Luxor Temple, the traditional souk, and the Nile Promenade in the heart of the city, but it is mostly used as a base to head on day trips across the Nile to see the archeological sites. I spent several days there, taking it easy, as it can be very hot indeed, and the valleys are a forbidding place when it’s hot. Here I have collected my favorite things to experience in Luxor, Egypt.

1. Exploring Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple was, after the pyramids and the Sphinx, the first ancient Egyptian temple I saw. Sitting right by the Nile, it was beautifully lit up at night and I spotted it from the taxi on the way to my hotel. Needless to say, this was the first stop for my explorations in and around the city the following day. Entering right opposite the old souk, the temple, constructed over centuries by Amenhotep III, Ramses II, Tutankhamun, and other pharaohs, was once the largest and most significant religious center in ancient Egypt. Compared to others you will see along the Nile, it is, in my mind, not the most impressive, but what is utterly outstanding and stunning is its Avenue of the Sphinxes: 1.5 miles of avenue connecting Luxor Temple with Karnak Temple, flanked by what was thought to have been around 1,350 statues of sphinxes. Further on, you’ll see rams, all sitting at attention. Today, not all have been found and the restoration is still ongoing, but standing there, looking down the avenue, is one of the most exhilarating experiences in Luxor.

2. Lightshow At Karnak Temple

Standing at the end of the Avenue of Sphinxes is Karnak Temples, famous for being the backdrop for one of the scenes in the James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me. You know, the temple with the enormously tall columns, set during a light show at night? That one. The temple is wonderful, a huge complex, and one fun way of experiencing it, with a bit of film nostalgia thrown in, is during the nighttime light show. You get to go on a guided walk, hearing about the history of the temple and its various pharaohs. End the walk sitting by the lake, with perfect reflections of the temple on the water, listening to music and stories of the past with Luxor glittering in the background.

3. Ballooning At Sunrise

Getting up at 4 a.m. is not my favorite thing, I’ll tell you that much, but for a sunrise balloon flight on the other side of the Nile, there is no other option. Being picked up at the hotel, taking a small ferry across the Nile, and then arriving at a field where 20-odd hot air balloons are in various states of inflation is still quite magical. But taking off, with the sun rising on the East Bank, the green field of the Nile below you, and colorful balloons all around you is more than magical. Watching the countless temples, tombs, and valleys below, the Nile with its sharp demarcation between green fields and bleak, sandy desert, the villages waking up, and people riding their donkeys is simply wonderful. For an hour, we flew, not straying far, but there was so much to see. We landed right next to a dig site, scattering archeologists who were not happy, but obviously quite accustomed to the morning spectacle.

4. Valley Of The Kings

This is what we all come to Luxor for: tombs of pharaohs that are so incredibly and beautifully decorated, and preserved yet are thousands of years old. I cannot even begin to describe to you what wonders you will see. Navigating at times very steep stairs down into stifling hot tombs is worth it, and I have seen little old ladies taking on the task and yet loving every minute. Take it slowly if you have rickety knees or wobbly feet, and you will be rewarded. Richly. There are more than 60 tombs in this stark valley with no vegetation, but only a few are open to the public. Of those, each and every one is worth seeing, and three are included in your normal entry tickets. Pay extra to see the tombs of Ramses V & VI (KV9), Seti I (KV17), and not forgetting Tutankhamun (KV62). Do not miss these, and if pushed for time, forget the others, and just pay extra and see these. You will not regret it.

5. Valley Of The Queens And The Mortuary Temple Of Hatshepsut

The Valley of the Queens is the counterpart of the Valley of the Kings, with some 90-odd tombs on the site. However, only a few are worthwhile stopping off for, with the tomb of Nefertari, wife of Ramses II, the most notable. A word of advice — try, if you can, to view these before you head to the Valley of the Kings, because after all the splendor there, these are not half as glamorous. But still worth your while.

Next to the Valley of the Queens stands the imposing Temple of Hatshepsut, one of the very few, and best-known female pharaohs. She is revered for being one of the most successful pharaohs, ruled for over 15 years, and was known to be quite the builder of temples and cities. 

6. The Tombs Of The Nobles

Near the Colossi of Memnon, which sits by the side of the road, and makes for a perfect selfie-spot on the way to the Valley of the Kings. You will see countless holes in the ground, in the hillside, everywhere. These are the Tombs of the Nobles, tombs of people with influence, in ancient Egypt, but not royal. More than 415 have been found, and more are being unearthed continuously. If you just visit one, make it the Tomb of Ramose and then stop off at the small artisan study and shop outside. Here, two craftsmen fashion sculptures and pictures in the old traditional way, and their skill is magnificent to watch. Their work makes for worthwhile souvenirs, too.

7. The Village Of The Artisans, Deir-El-Medina

This site is often overlooked on tours that concentrate on the tombs and temples of the pharaohs, yet this village is where all the artisans lived, those craftsmen who decorated the magnificent tombs. Here are the remains of the village, from where they climbed across the mountain ridge into the Valley of the Kings, together with some open tombs of the artisans themselves.

8. Stay At The Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor

The Winter Palace is the historic hotel where all the dignitaries and, more importantly, where the archeologists who discovered the treasures on the West Bank stayed in their day. It is a little shabby around the edges but eminently charming, and the garden is simply to die for. The large pool is heaven-sent after a day looking at tombs in dusty valleys.

9. Eat At Sofra

For some authentic Egyptian food away from your hotel or cruise ship, head straight to Sofra Restaurant. Just off the bustling El-Mansheya Street, which, at night is full of food stalls selling sweets, super-sized chapati breads, ready-to-eat dishes to take away, and fresh juices. In a quiet side street lies this lovely restaurant where you can sit on the open terrace on the upper floor and sample local dishes without having to try and eat as you navigate the traffic. Clean, nicely decorated, and with friendly waiters who can suggest dishes to you in halting English, this is a great place to sit after a long day’s sightseeing. Try the Khiyar Bil Zabadi, the local version of Tzatziki, the hummus, and the Salata Baladi for starters. If you are not averse to trying local specialties, try the pigeon, or the rabbit for mains, all washed down with fresh melon or pomegranate juice.

Pro Tip: The most important piece of advice I can give is to spend a few days in Luxor. So many people fly in, catch their cruise ship, and head off after a quick look at the Valley of the Kings, but there is much to keep you occupied. So please, stay awhile.

One of Istanbul’s most luxurious and iconic hotels, the legendary Pera Palace, is located in the Beyoglu district of the city, formerly known as Pera or Little Europe. The hotel was purposely built to accommodate the rich and famous passengers of the Orient Express, a luxury train service that ran from Paris to Istanbul from 1883 to 1977. Many other routes exist to this day and once a year, in August, the original route is reestablished.

As there was no appropriate accommodation in Istanbul for the kind of passengers that traveled on the Orient Express, the Pera Palace was built with the latest luxuries of the time and opened its doors with a grand ball in 1885.

The hotel is built in the neoclassical style with art deco features in the facades, whereas the interior shows many more oriental details in common with the taste for everything exotic and oriental of the time. It was also the reason why so many passengers traveled to Istanbul and what they generally perceived as “the east.” The Pera Palace is not only a protected historical building but also a museum. Countless celebrities, actors, writers, and politicians have at one time or another been guests in the hotel and left their stories and anecdotes.

The Pera Palace was the first building, with the exception of the Sultan’s Palace, to have electricity, hot running water, and an electric lift, which can still be admired and used in the sumptuous lobby. The hotel underwent 4 years of painstaking renovations and reopened in renewed splendor in 2010. It has always been at the forefront of fashionable events and the first-ever fashion show in Istanbul was held at the Pera Palace in 1926. It’s still an acclaimed venue for functions such as weddings and the beautiful patisserie is a meeting point for Istanbul’s “ladies who lunch.” The splendid views over the Golden Horn from the wrought-iron balconies and terraces adjacent to the café and library add to the charm of the Pera Palace.

In 2018, Istanbul’s gigantic new airport, located on the European side of the city, opened. The best way to reach the Pera Palace is by taxi. It takes approximately 40 minutes but can be much longer depending on traffic which is heavy in Istanbul. The hotel also provides a pick-up service on request.

Here are the special rooms, facilities, and details that make the Pera Palace such a desirable destination.

Agatha Christie Room

Acclaimed British crime novelist Agatha Christie was a frequent passenger on the Orient Express and a guest in the Pera Palace. Her favorite room in the hotel was 411. You can stay there, too, and experience the aura of a master of suspense. It is rumored that her novel Murder on the Orient Express was written in this room. The original furniture is there, her books are on the shelves, facsimiles of manuscripts hang framed on the walls and a copy of the typewriter sits on her desk together with her favorite tea set. But, there is still another mystery to the room. 

In 1926, Agatha disappeared for 11 days and it could never be explained what had happened to her. A medium by the name of Tamara Rand from Los Angeles organized a séance and gave clear instructions that under the floorboards of room 411 a key would be found that would open a box with a diary inside where Agatha had written down where she had been. Actually, a rusty key was found where she indicated, but no box and no notebook. Maybe you can go hunting if you stay in Agatha’s room.

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk’s Room

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic, was another frequent guest of the Pera Palace Hotel. His room was 101 and many decisions were made here and meetings held that influenced history. The room is now a museum to him with many documents, photographs, and personal belongings plus his rather narrow bed. It’s not often that you can come that close to history, so when in the Pera Palace, visit the museum.

The Silver Of The Dining Room

The hotel’s elegant dining room exhibits another mysterious find discovered during the extensive renovation. The open kitchen where you can watch the chefs creating excellent meals is only half the attraction. Much more interesting are showcases set into the walls and illuminated that display exquisite silver plates, terrines, and cutlery all signed by famous Paris jeweler Christofle. As the lovely PR lady who showed me around explained to me, several huge boxes addressed to the hotel but never opened had been unearthed during the renovations, containing a treasure trove of never used silver and it was decided to display it rather than use it.

The Lift

The first thing you see upon entering the lobby is the cage lift, lavishly decorated with art deco motifs. At the time of the opening of the hotel, it was a sensation because it was the only eclectically working lift in the city, proudly operated by a liveried lift boy who took you up to your room. It is still in working order, although nowadays, guests are taken to their room by separate lifts on the sides.

Orient Bar

The Orient Bar on the ground floor is where it really gets nostalgic. Lavishly furnished and subtly lighted, you can’t help but think of all the celebrities from Hemingway to Greta Garbo to Jackie Kennedy who have enjoyed many a drink in this elegant bar. The tradition continues for being an important meeting and socializing place in the city. Every month, literary meetings and readings are held with special guests and every Friday evening there is live music. The walls are decorated with autographed photographs of past and present celebrities.

Greta Garbo Rooms

The Swedish silent movie star stayed in the Pera Palace in 1924. The rooms named after her are on the historic floors of the hotel and decorated with rose motifs and painted in pink and green to reflect the fragility of the diva. Become a movie star for a night by staying there.

The Patisserie

The Patisserie, located opposite the Orient Bar, is designed like a private lounge. Huge windows to the terrace outside let in plenty of light but elaborate chandeliers help to illuminate all the sweet goodies offered. It’s rumored it makes the best borek (thin flaky pastry with a variety of fillings from sweet to savory) in Istanbul, but you can also have handmade French chocolates and snacks. And of course, Turkish coffee all in a pink painted room.

The Ballroom

The Grand Pera Ballroom is the location where the opening ball of the hotel was held. Just peeking inside and admiring the Murano chandeliers, parquet floors, elaborate, gilded plasterwork, and swishing draperies around the floor to ceiling windows, evoke images of what that glittering event must have been like. Today, it’s a popular venue for upscale weddings and other functions.

Kubbeli Salon And Tea Lounge

This opulent lounge, called Kubbeli Salon, is famed for its traditional English afternoon tea. It’s served with all the trimmings, accompanied by gentle live piano music. Look up though, and admire the high ceiling with six glass domes and corner windows that let in natural light. Paintings adorn the walls and there is also a library with a collection of valuable books.

The Spa

The PeraPalace’s Spa and wellness center, located in the basement, is a vision of soothing blue light. It is available to hotel guests but also day guests who wish to spend a few hours of exercise, relaxation, or beauty treatments by professionals in this luxurious and historical environment. An ergonomic technogym with indoor pool and Jacuzzi with jet streams await those who wish to work out. A plethora of massages are offered for relaxation, including Bali Massage, Hot Stone Massage, and Indian Head Massage. Naturally for those who want to experience an authentic Turkish Bath, that is available too. No need to bring any special clothes, all is provided for you. 

Turkish cotton towels are renowned for their quality and softness, so enjoy or buy a few at the boutique. As for beauty treatments: who could resist the Greta Garbo Beauty Package or, after a long flight, the Jetlag Fix Package which was developed and named after the first set of jet pilots who stayed at the hotel.

The beauty products used in the spa have all been made especially for the Pera Palace in France. Guest or not, you will enjoy a one-of-a-kind treatment in this hotel that breathes history and luxury at every corner.

As if the many fabulous above-ground monuments in Turkey, and the exceptional landscapes like Cappadocia, aren’t enough to inspire anyone to visit, there are also sites that many visitors don’t know about. They are underground, and given the summer heat in Turkey, they offer an ideal opportunity to escape the high temperatures. 

These locations are either entire towns, cisterns, churches, or tombs, but none of them have disappeared because of natural disasters like earthquakes, floods, or sandstorms. They have all been built on purpose, an incredible feat of engineering and architecture, considering how many centuries old they are. There are 36 underground cities in Turkey, most of them in Cappadocia. You can easily theme your trip around visiting the many underground locations, including Istanbul. Each is an adventure, giving insight into history, culture, and art, not to be found above ground. It doesn’t really matter what time of the year you visit. Underground, you are protected from the elements. In case you wonder, it does snow in Cappadocia.

1. Basilica Cistern, Istanbul

Located across from the Hagia Sofia on the Sarayburnu peninsula, this is the largest of several hundred underground cisterns that supplied Istanbul with water. Built in 532 by Byzantine Emperor Justinian, the cathedral-size cistern measures 453 feet by 213 feet and is more than 30 feet high. The vaulted roof is supported by 336 carved marble columns decorated with Ionian and Corinthian capitals and arranged in 12 rows. The cistern could hold a staggering 2,800,000 cubic feet of water that came via aqueducts from the Belgrade Forest.

Visiting the cistern is a truly magical experience. You descend 52 steps to the entrance and are greeted by the forest of columns, subtly lighted from below. Often, classical music is piped in to enhance the dream-like view. The water level is kept low and goldfish swim among the rows of columns. Walkways and steps lead around the cistern to make access easier for visitors who previously only could move around by boat. (see the James Bond movie: From Russia With Love).

Make your way to the northwest corner where you’ll find two columns with their bases formed of two carved images of the Medusa. One is upside down, the other is turned sideways. Legend has it that they were placed this way to divert the evil power of the gorgon’s eye. Close to the entrance, there is even a café where you can enjoy refreshments.

Pro Tip: This is a very popular Istanbul tourist attraction with long lines at the ticket counter. Avoid them by booking this tour.

2. Derinkuyu/Underground City, Cappadocia

Derinkuyu is the largest of several underground cities in Cappadocia. Located near Nevsehir or Goreme, this city is 280 feet deep and consists of 18 floors. It dates back to Hittite times but was fully developed in Byzantine times ( A.D. 780-1180) The city served as a refuge and shelter during the many wars that raged in the region over the centuries. It could hold 20,000 people plus livestock and provisions. Each floor could be closed off by massive stones serving as doors. Narrow shafts provide ventilation. The population also had wine and oil presses and many other amenities and Derinkuyu was connected to other underground cities by a network of tunnels.

When visiting, be aware that there is little explanation provided to what you actually see. Therefore it might be a good idea to go on this tour which includes other sites too.

If you go on your own, watch for guides that are standing at the entrance and offer their services. They are quite good.

Pro Tip: Access is on foot through narrow shafts and over steep stone steps. The ceiling is low. If you suffer from heart or breathing problems or claustrophobia, you could be uncomfortable.

3. Dara Cistern And Necropolis, Mardin

Dara is one of the oldest settlements in Upper Mesopotamia. Located just 19 miles from the equally ancient and fabulous hill city of Mardin, Dara dates back to Roman and early Byzantine times when it was an important settlement along the Silk Road. It spreads out over a large area and the most important parts to see are the fortified city walls, cave houses, cistern, and unique gallery graves that form the necropolis. Everything is carved into the limestone rock.

The cistern into which you can descend was actually discovered under a barn in the village of Dara and lies 82 feet underground and can hold 143,000 cubic feet of water. It dates from the 6th century and is carved into a fortification wall. It’s not as elaborately carved as the basilica cistern but amazes by its size.

The gallery graves were the burial place for hundreds of people, buried together in niches of the gallery. Reinvigoration ceremonies were carried out in Roman times. Excavations of the site are still ongoing. Above ground, the village of Dara is actually a collection of houses and some workshops where traditional clothes are shown as well as tools and traditional ways of harvest.

4. Pluto’s Gate, Denizli

On top of the gigantic travertine terraces and hot springs of Pamukkale in western / Turkey sits the ancient city of Hierapolis. At the end of the 2nd century B.C., it was a popular and thriving spa town but the place harbors a much more sinister secret. In Roman times, it became known as the “Gate to Hell.” Toxic gases escaped from a hole in the mountainside, killing birds and small animals instantly. The Romans created a sanctuary called Ploutonion because they believed this was the gate to the underworld, belonging to the god Pluto and the deadly gases were the breath of Cerberus, the giant hound guarding the entrance to the underworld and protecting his master, Pluto. Sacrifices were made, exposing birds and even bigger animals to the toxic gases, accompanied by a priest who, miraculously, returned unharmed. Modern science has found a reason for this phenomenon: a high concentration of carbon dioxide, caused by a tectonic fault which runs directly underneath, escapes through the hole in the Ploutonion mineral-rich water, and toxic gases mix and get to the surface through the hole in the Ploutonion. However, the carbon dioxide dissipates quickly in sunlight and only remains fatal close to the ground and at night.

Who wouldn’t want to visit a place where mystery, legends, and reality mix in such a stunning way? You can reach Pluto’s gate from Izmir or Denizli, but you don’t need to fear for your life. Pluto’s Gate has been bricked up and a walkway leads around the site with a statue of Pluto on top.

5. Kaymakli, Cappadocia

The underground city of Kaymakli is located within the citadel of the same name, a few miles from Nevsehir. Its more than 100 tunnels are still used today as storage areas, stables, or cellars. The difference with Derinkuyu is that only four floors are open to the public and the tunnels are lower and narrower. The rooms are all arranged around ventilation shafts. To get there, you don’t need to go on a guided tour, if you don’t mind changing buses a few times you can visit on your own. Just make your way to Nevsehir, cross the market and you’ll find the entrance at the back. Pay your fee (in cash) and explore, but mind your head and your steps.

6. Church At Nevsehir Castle, Cappadocia

While you are at Kaymakli, you might choose to visit another underground part of the castle. A few years back, an exciting discovery was made during excavations of the vast area that the castle covers: a church and never before seen frescos. The church is thought to date from the 5th century A.D., and its thin walls had collapsed, leaving only the roof visible. The frescos that were surprisingly fresh in color had to be removed piece by piece and by hand from mud and debris. They show Christ rising to Heaven and the killing of bad souls. Nevsehir is quite a hub in Cappadocia and can be reached from many cities in Turkey thanks to motorways. Once there, find the market, cross through it and at the back you will find the entrance.

7. Myra Necropolis, Demre

Demre is located in the southwest of Turkey, not far from Antalya. It’s an ancient Lycian city, dating from the 4th century B.C. Demre is famous for its great number of elaborate rock tombs, carved out of the rock in the form of houses and temples. This city of the dead was originally painted bright red, yellow, blue, and purple. The necropolis is divided into an ocean necropolis and a river necropolis, depending on which side it’s facing.

Demre also happens to be the home of St. Nicholas and features a church dedicated to him.

You don’t have to go underground to visit these unique and fabulous tombs and you can’t climb around among them but there are plenty of tours to allow you to see them.

Pro Tip: With toxic gases, narrow passages, and tunnels deep underground, these sites are not suitable for wheelchair users and people with disabilities. Assess your health, fitness, and phobias before you plan to visit any of these.

Only 80 years ago, people might have asked: “Dubai? Where is that?” Not anymore. The glittering city located on the southeast coast of the Persian Gulf has come a long way from its humble beginnings as a desert town to becoming a world-famous center of incredible riches, towering buildings, artificial and natural islands, and plenty of gold. Yes, everything that glitters in Dubai is indeed gold, including such a thing as ATMs that distribute gold coins and ingots instead of cash. But only a few miles away, the desert is still there in all its glory. 

What I like so much about Dubai that makes me return time and again is the contrast and the many possibilities this place offers. From shopping and sightseeing to adventures and indoor skiing, these things to do in Dubai will ensure a wide variety of fun and entertainment. Then, leave the glitz and glamour behind for a while and venture into the desert with one of the many tours that are on offer. One of the best is a tour that combines camel riding, falconry, and sandboarding. You will never have a dull moment in Dubai. Follow me to take your pick of the best things to do.

1. Rise In The Sky At Burj Khalifa

Burj Khalifa is probably the most famous landmark in Dubai. At 2,720 feet, it’s the world’s tallest building and has a very distinctive design. Rise into the sky by going up to the 124th and 125th floors for an unparalleled view of the city. Even better is to make your way to the Sky Lounge and observation terrace on the 148th floor. You need tickets to visit, so buy your Burj Khalifa tickets here to avoid long lines.

2. Get Close And Personal With The Fish At Dubai Aquarium And Underwater Zoo

Water plays a big role in many things to do in Dubai. The Dubai Aquarium features a massive tank that holds 2,641,721 gallons of water and is home to 30,000 species of fish. You can wander along and look, but for an extra thrill, you can dive with the sharks in a cage or just don an oxygenated helmet and get in the water. There is, of course, an instructor who will film you if you wish, and you can buy the card for a lasting memory.

3. Ride A Hot Air Balloon Over The Desert

There is hardly a more fascinating view than to drift silently in a hot air balloon over the vast, orange desert at sunrise. The ride includes transport and a breakfast at a desert camp, and you might even spot camels and gazelles.

4. Experience The Past In The Al Fahidi Neighborhood

Get a glimpse of what life was like before the Emirates were formed in 1971. A labyrinth of lanes is lined with traditional buildings made from stone, palm wood, gypsum, and teak. It feels like you have come to a secluded village. Not a skyscraper in sight! The district of Al Fahidi is located at Dubai Creek and hosts some seasonal cultural events.

5. Whizz Around Palm Jumeira In A Speedboat

You can’t miss a view of the Dubai skyline from the water, and an exciting way to do so is going on a speed boat ride. Departing from the marina, the boat, complete with an English-speaking guide and safety equipment, takes you around the world’s most iconic man-made islands, Palm Jumeira, with the Burj Al Arab and other landmarks in the distance.

6. Eat To Your Heart’s Content On A Dubai Food Tour

With all the activities awaiting in Dubai, you must not forget to look after your taste buds. There’s no better way to sample the delicious Middle East cuisine than on foot on an approximately 4-hour tour guided by a local insider who knows all the best places and plenty of backstories. Don’t forget to try ouzi, the national dish of the UAE. It’s slow-cooked lamb served with nuts and raisins over rice.

7. Shop Till You Drop In The Dubai Mall

Still the world’s largest shopping mall, the Dubai Mall downtown offers more than 1,300 retail outlets and 300 dining places and cafes. The shops mostly sell luxurious brands, and there are branches of Galeries Lafayette and Bloomingdale’s. The AC makes for a pleasant change from the heat outside, and if you still feel like cooling down further, there is also an Olympic-sized ice rink.

8. Hang Tight And Fly XLine Dubai Marina

Another thrill and adventure is flying down one of the world’s longest, steepest, and fastest urban zip lines. With a helmet and harness on and your belly down, off you go across the panorama of Dubai that you can now see from a bird’s-eye view. XLine starts at the Marina, but there is another one called the XLine Dubai Fountain that is a bit shorter and slower, but equally exciting. It starts in front of the Burj Khalifa. The fountain is the largest in the world and several water shows are scheduled every day.

9. Explore Dubai Creek

The creek is a saltwater inlet that splits Dubai into two halves: the Deira and the Bur Dubai. They are connected by several bridges, the oldest being the Al Maktoum Bridge. Many important hotels and banks line the banks of the creek, as do cafes. It’s a pleasure to walk the creek (provided the temperature isn’t too high) and to visit Zabeel Park and the famous Dubai Frame, a structure shaped like a massive picture frame that’s actually a bridge with a glass-bottom floor. On the Deira side of the creek, you find the gold and spice souk in case you want to do some more shopping.

10. Take The Best Selfies At Miracle Garden

Dubai’s Miracle Garden must be one of the most photogenic places in the city. Imagine the color and scent of 50 million flowers and 250 million plants, all arranged to form natural, giant sculptures. It’s the world’s largest natural garden. There are buildings, a heart-shaped tunnel of love, and even an entire Emirates Boeing made from flowers. You can spend hours there.

11. Enjoy Culture From Around The World At Global Village

A mixture of entertainment, education, shopping, shows, and an amusement park, Global Village, located on the outskirts of Dubai, is a venue to be enjoyed by the whole family. 78 cultures from around the world are represented in presentations and country pavilions. See the pyramids, the Kremlin, and much more while mingling with tourists and locals alike.

12. Bash The Dunes On An Evening Safari

Hopefully, you have already seen the sunrise on your balloon ride; now you can see a glorious sunset over the desert on an evening tour in a 4×4. But it gets more exciting on this tour than just watching the sun set over the dunes. You actually get to bash down them at full speed and then you can experience shows by local dancers and a sumptuous dinner.

13. Take A Day Trip To Al Ain

If you wish to venture further into the desert and are more interested in history than dune bashing, take a day trip to the ancient town of Al Ain. You’ll have a chance to see the Sheik Zayed Palace Museum, the old fort, the Al Ain Oasis, and a colorful camel market. Jebel Hafeet is a nearby mountain that rises out of the desert.

14. Sniff The Air At Al Shindagha Museum Perfume House

If you visit just one museum, why not the one dedicated to the age-old Arabian tradition of perfume making? Located at the Dubai Creek, the Al Shindagah museum takes you on a journey to explore and understand the art of perfume making, especially local scents like oud, saffron, and roses. You can see the techniques used and also learn about the region’s perfume trade routes. It is, quite literally, a sweet experience.

15. Be A Kid Again At Legoland

Despite the marketing saying that this is an attraction for kids from 2-12, Legoland Dubai is a ton of fun for the whole family. You can play around all day on 60 interactive Lego-themed rides, a water park, and run around among 15,000 Lego sculptures. If you feel the inner architect in you, you can buy building material on your way out.

16. Roll In The Snow At Ski Dubai

Yes, you can ski and play in the snow in Dubai! Ski Dubai is an indoor ski resort located within the Mall of the Emirates. It consists of an artificial mountain with 5 slopes. Lifts take skiers up. Next to it is a snow play area for snowboarding or just making snowballs. You don’t need to bring any equipment; skis and jackets are provided with your ticket. They also have penguins that are released from their enclosure several times a day.

17. Be Respectful At Jumeira Mosque

The beautiful Jumeira Mosque located on the Jumeira Beach Road is the only mosque that allows non-Muslim visitors every day of the week except Fridays. Carved entirely out of white stone in the medieval Fatimid style, the mosque is a much-loved landmark. Guides are available for explanations. Don’t forget to adhere to the dress code and be sure to take your shoes off. If you aren’t totally covered, appropriate clothing for both sexes is provided at the entrance. It should go without saying that you should neither disturb nor take photos of people who are worshipping.

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan is a land of many wonders. From Roman ruins to the stunning remnants of the ancient Nabataean civilization, it’s impossible not to become swept up in the splendor of this awe-inspiring and welcoming country.

Among the many must-sees in Jordan is Wadi Rum — Valley of the Moon — located in Jordan’s southwestern corner. (A “wadi” is defined as a valley, river, or channel that is dry, except in the rainy season.) The drive to the wadi on main roads takes 3.5 hours from Jordan’s capital of Amman, 1.5 hours from the marvels of Petra, and less than one hour from the coastal city of Aqaba. Some hotels arrange bus tours, or you can negotiate a taxi from Aqaba and Petra, but a rental car will give you the most flexibility.

My husband, guide dog, and I spent 24 unforgettable hours under the spell of Wadi Rum and the delightful Bedouin family who acted as our guides and hosts at Saleh’s Safari Camp and Tours. There we discovered a world set apart from anything we had experienced before or since. Here are a few of the reasons we fell in love with Wadi Rum, and why you will, too.

1. The Inhospitable Yet Eerily Beautiful Desert Landscape

We first met Saleh upon our arrival in Wadi Rum Village. After securing our luggage and us in the bed of his 4×4, he headed into the desert. There are a number of ways to travel, including on camelback, but for us, bumping along in the back of the pickup was perfect.

The deeper we drove into the desert, the more alien it appeared. The sand was red in some places and yellow in others. Outcroppings of jagged rock formations, sand dunes of all sizes, scrub brush, and the occasional tree rolled by. As the sun climbed higher, the land took on a baron, lifeless appearance. But the desert was very much alive.

A woman herded goats, while other goats grazed on whatever was growing in craggy rock surfaces. Animals, reptiles, and even small birds were present but preferred the cold night to the heat of the scorching sun.

In 1998, the Jordanian government declared Wadi Rum a protected area. This act recognized the need to preserve its fragile environment, as well as its unique natural and cultural history while acknowledging the importance of tourism to the local economy.

The vast majority of people living in the Wadi Rum area are of Bedouin origin. They rely heavily on tourism to sustain themselves and their families. However, they have not lost the ability to be self-sufficient, thanks to the resourcefulness handed down through millennia from their ancestors.

Pro Tip: The visitor center is located opposite the mountain named after Lawrence of Arabia’s book, Seven Pillars of Wisdom. This is the main gateway to Wadi Rum. There you will find a reception area, information, bathrooms, restaurants, and shops. If you are driving a rental car, you’ll have to leave it behind before entering the protected area.

2. The Magnificent Rock Formations

Many of the rocks we saw on our drive through Wadi Rum were, well, rocks. However, some took on interesting shapes, while others held ancient secrets.

The Border Rock Bridge (Jebel Burdah), located in the southeast of the protected area, towered above us. It is considered one of the world’s largest natural rock arches.

Khazali Canyon, a narrow fissure in a mountainside, required a bit of a scramble over rocks to reach the entrance, but it was definitely worth it. On one wall, 7th-century Arabic inscriptions praised Allah. On the other, Nabatean drawings from as far back as 2,500 B.C. depicted mountain goats and other desert animals, as well as human figures. 

Pro Tip: Bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, plenty of water, and sturdy comfortable walking shoes or boots for negotiating sand and rock

3. The Reminders Of Films Old And New

It didn’t take long for us to understand why Wadi Rum’s landscape has inspired Hollywood to choose this location to shoot unearthly films such as Martian and Red Planet. But perhaps the most enduring film shot at Wadi Rum was the 1962 classic, Lawrence of Arabia.

Lawrence is still revered to this day. That is why it came as no surprise when we found ourselves gazing at Lawrence’s Spring, a tiny oasis sheltered by overhanging rock. According to legend, this was where the man himself washed during the Arab Revolt.

4. The Thrill Of A Glorious Desert Sunset

Saleh promised us an incredible sunset, and he was true to his word. He deposited us near a rock formation facing the distant mountains, and my husband climbed to the top of the rocks to get that perfect shot.

The surrounding landscape began to take on a deepening reddish tinge. The sky gradually lost its azure hue, turning to a softer blue and then to pink, as the sun slowly changed from flaming yellow to hazy orange. As soon as the sun disappeared, darkness descended almost immediately, allowing only a brief period of twilight.

Pro Tip: Early spring and late fall are the best times to visit Wadi Rum.

5. The Tantalizing Tastes Of Traditional Foods

Upon our arrival at the camp, we headed for the communal tent for dinner and conversation. Saleh’s wife, Alia, had prepared a traditional feast for us.

A sumptuous spread of tantalizing salads lay along one side of the sitting area. Alia had assembled a large pot of upside-down chicken, a hardy dish popular throughout Jordan, as the centerpiece. She had layered chicken pieces, eggplant, cauliflower, spices, and rice in a large pot. When the dish was ready, a platter was placed on top of the pot, and the entire thing inverted. When the pot was lifted, the dish was as pleasing to the eye as it was a delight to consume. We washed everything down with copious amounts of a popular tea blend that had a mild, pleasant flavor.

6. The Silence And Solitude Of Night In The Desert

After dinner, we walked the short distance to our tent. It was spacious and clean. It also had electric lighting and outlets for charging our phones, courtesy of solar power.

Alia had piled our bed with warm blankets against the cold desert night. With the addition of our sweats, we were warm and comfortable.

We were fortunate to have the bathrooms only a few yards from our tent. They, too, were clean, and functional. No WiFi, but the complete silence, clear sky, full moon, and bright stars more than made up for it.

Pro Tip: Bring a flashlight, in case there’s no moon.

7. The Warmth Of Bedouin Hospitality

Saleh’s Safari Camp and Tours consistently garners a five-star rating on Tripadvisor and has earned the Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence. The accolades are well deserved, as we can attest.

Jordan is a Muslim country, and the same laws relating to access with a certified service animal in other countries don’t apply. I wrote in advance to ask if my guide dog would be allowed to accompany us and received an immediate affirmative response.

The next morning, following an excellent breakfast, we had the opportunity to spend a little time with Saleh, Alia, and some of their brood. Alia, who is as delightful as she is accomplished, tried to teach us a few Arabic words, all of which we have long forgotten.

When we reluctantly took our leave; it was with hugs and the sense we were leaving pieces of our hearts with these warm, hardworking, generous people of Wadi Rum.

Pro Tip: If you plan to be in Jordan for several days, consider purchasing a Jordan Pass online before you leave home. Your entry visa fees, admission to 40 attractions (including Wadi Rum), and downloadable brochures make it a true value.

Dubai already has the world’s tallest building (Burj Khalifa), the world’s highest outdoor infinity pool (Address Beach Resort), and the world’s tallest hotel (Genova Hotel). 

Now, this city in the United Arab Emirates can claim another Guinness World Record: home to the world’s deepest swimming pool for diving.

The recently opened pool at Deep Dive Dubai is an incredible 60.02 meters (197 feet) deep. It holds 14 million liters (3.7 million gallons) of water, which is the equivalent of six Olympic-sized swimming pools. 

Learn To Dive, Refresh Skills In Unusual Environment

This indoor pool isn’t for visitors to swim laps or lounge around on a floaty. Rather, it’s a state-of-the-art dive center that allows people as young as 10 years old to learn how to scuba dive with top-notch instructors and all of the proper equipment provided. (Deep Dive Dubai’s FAQ does say that snorkelers are welcome.)

Visitors can also get introduced to the concept of free diving, which is journeying far underwater in one single breath.

Experienced scuba divers and free divers can enhance their skills with advanced training or just have fun exploring several sunken features and scenes in the huge pool. In the “abandoned and sunken city,” check out a convertible car, swim around an arcade complete with vintage video games and foosball table, admire colorful graffiti, and even ride a stationary bike all far below the water’s surface. 

The freshwater is kept at 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit) at all times. With “perfect diving conditions 365 days a year,” the facility provides a controlled environment for divers of all abilities, notes Deep Dive Dubai’s spokesperson Abdulla Bin Habtoor: “We offer an unparalleled experience with year-round diving, in a safe environment, with outstanding instructors and services.”

Actor Will Smith Gives Deep Dive Dubai A Thumbs Up

Deep Dive Dubai is scheduled to open to the public at the end of July. But Hollywood superstar Will Smith, who visits Dubai regularly, got a sneak peek recently and shared a snippet of his experience on Instagram:

What hasn’t surfaced yet (pun intended) on social media is a clip of Smith actually wearing scuba gear underwater in the pool. 

Amenities For Non-Divers At Deep Dive Dubai

For visitors to Dubai who may want to check out the scene, but not get wet, there are several large windows that allow non-diving visitors to peer into the underwater environment. 

Also, more than 50 underwater cameras positioned throughout the pool also deliver a live feed to monitors, so you can watch divers make their way in and around the different spaces. Don’t expect to see any marine life though: No fish or coral make their home in the pool. 

An 80-seat restaurant with viewing windows is scheduled to open by the end of 2021. A gift shop and dive shop are currently on site. 

The exterior of the 1,500-square-meter (16,000-square-foot) facility is shaped like a giant oyster in a nod to the UAE’s pearl diving heritage. 

Located at Nad Al Sheba 1, Deep Dive Dubai is a 15-minute drive from downtown Dubai and a 20-minute drive from Dubai International Airport. 

Deep Dive Dubai is scheduled to take reservations for diving experiences by late July.

I’m only happy if I can live either by an ocean, a lake, or a broad river. Mountains, especially if they are high and close, make me feel claustrophobic, and lakes have the opposite effect. There is something very soothing about contemplating the quiet surface or vast expanse of a lake mirroring the surrounding countryside or reflecting my own image. What makes Turkey’s lakes so special is that they’re located in beautiful and sometimes out-of-the-way landscapes, surrounded by tales and legends, dotted with islands, monasteries, and an abundance of history, just like the country itself.

All are created by Mother Nature who seems to have made use of a full palette of colors to mix the most amazing hues, from sapphire blue to green, turquoise, and even pink. Some are freshwater lakes, but others, like the aptly named Lake Tuz (Salt Lake), are saline. Several are bird sanctuaries, like Lake Bafa, or home to an — alleged — monster like Lake Van.

I have visited all seven, some more than once, and want to share with you their individual beauty and stories.

1. Lake Van

This is Turkey’s largest lake, located in the far east of the country at an altitude of 5,380 feet. The lake is fed by several rivers but has no outlet. It’s one of the country’s saline lakes, which means that, despite the altitude and cold winters, the water does not freeze. Ferries or private boats criss-cross the vast lake, and they allow you to see it from all angles and to admire the reflection of the surrounding woods and the extinct, snow-covered volcanoes Mount Suphan and the legendary Mount Nemrut. The volcanoes loom over the northern and western shores respectively. Snowy mountains, green woods, and deep blue water make a striking combination.

The main island in the lake is Akdamar Island with the Armenian Church of the Holy Cross, a must-visit. The best way is by ferry from Gevaş. Legend has it that a princess by the name of Tamara once lived on the island, imprisoned by her father, who didn’t approve of her poor and humble lover. He used to swim across, guided by a candle she lit in her window. One stormy night, the candle blew out and he drowned, calling out “ach, Tamara,” from which the island got its name. 

The next legend refers to Van Gölü Canavarı, a carnivorous lake monster. Nobody has really seen it yet, but it got a statue in the city of Van, just in case.

2. Lake Uzun

No legends or monsters, but Lake Uzun (or Uzungöl) is an oasis of utter peace and tranquility. Located approximately 44 miles inland from Rize on the Black Sea coast, Lake Uzun is a sweet water lake at the foot of the Soganli mountains, surrounded by steep hills and forests.

It looks like a piece of Switzerland, with many chalets dotting the hillsides and cattle grazing in the meadows. You know you are in Turkey, though, when you see the mosque with two slender minarets in the village of the same name reflected in the water. 

You can walk on a path around the lake, which takes about one hour, hike on well-marked tracks up into the mountains, rent a pedal boat and cruise on the lake, or sit in a very beautiful tea house on the shore, enjoy the peace, and let yourself be dazzled by the turquoise waters.

3. Lake Bafa

Located in southwest Turkey, Lake Bafa was once part of the Aegean Sea before it was cut off by sediments carried by the Meander River. Therefore, the water of this rather shallow lake is salty. The northern side is bordered by steep mountain slopes covered in wild olive trees. The southern side has a few beaches and the romantic village of Kapıkırı, from where you can hire boats to visit the twin islands in the lake or go on a fishing trip.

The entire lake and surrounding area are a national park, beloved by bird watchers among many others. On one island, you find the ruins of a fortress and monastery; in the mountains to the north stands the Monastery of the Seven Brothers, which also features a cave with prehistoric paintings. From Kapıkırı you can walk to the ancient site of Herakleia, and on the shore, you find stone tombs of monks. Lake Bafa not only offers stunning nature but also a journey through thousands of years of history, from ancient Greece to Byzantine times.

My favorite is to eat at the Karia Restaurant in Kapıkırı, on the water’s edge. They serve the special fish which is only caught in Lake Bafa, and here you can get boats to take you to the islands. 

Oh yes, and there is a legend, too. According to it, the moon goddess Selene fell in love with the shepherd Endymion here, and it’s easy to see how Lake Bafa inspires romance.

4. Lake Tuz

Turkey’s second-largest lake is located in the Central Anatolia Region. It is 65 miles from Konya, best known as the city where Sufism originated. Lake Tuz, or the Salt Lake, is also one of the world’s largest hypersaline lakes. You can reach the lake from Aksaray in Cappadocia. Fed by two streams but with no outlet, the lake is shallow and during the summer months dries out, leaving a thick salt crust which is the basis for three salt mines that produce a great part of the salt consumed in Turkey. Most remarkable, though, is the color: It’s a vibrant pink! 

This is a rather harsh landscape and an out-of-the-way place with no tourism to speak of, which makes it all the more desirable to visit. The pink color gets otherworldly if you manage to be there at sunset.

5. Lake Salda

Lake Salda, a crater lake in Turkey’s southwest Burdur Province, is very special insofar as its hydromagnesite waters are beneficial to heal many dermatological diseases. The lake is very popular with Turkish visitors because of its white beaches, shallow access, and azure color. But it’s also Turkey’s deepest lake, and the sand can be treacherous, as it sucks your feet in. So be careful when going into the water. 

No legends and monsters around Lake Salda, but there is a compelling connection to outer space. NASA thinks that the lake is of the same composition as the Jezero Crater on Mars, as discovered by the Mars surface rover Perseverance.

6. Lake Beyşehir

This is Turkey’s largest freshwater lake. It is within Konya Province’s Beysehir Lake National Park. The beautiful turquoise lake is fed by streams from the nearby Taurus, Sultan, and Anamas mountains. There are 33 islets in the lake, and there are many coves and sandy beaches to make this an enjoyable lake experience in Turkey. There is plenty of flora and fauna to observe in the national park, and it’s a paradise for bird watchers. Surrounding the shore are dense black pine forests that stretch up into the mountains.

7. Lake Sülüklü

This freshwater lake in Bolu Province near historical Mudurnu is an ideal destination if you fancy a camping vacation by a lovely lake. The facilities are good, and instead of a shower, you can have a refreshing swim in the lake. It’s also close to Burj Al Babas, a ghost town of abandoned castles next to Mudurnu.

Pro Tip

The best time to visit all these amazing lakes in Turkey is summer. None of the lakes, towns, and villages next to them are overcrowded, and the warm weather of summer is more enticing for a swim where permitted. The first three lakes are easily reached by public transport; for the others, especially Lake Salda, you will need to rent a car. For all your lake trips, remember to be respectful of the environment. Tread carefully and don’t leave any litter.

Related Reading:

• 11 Beautiful Seaside Towns On The Black Sea
• The Most Beautiful Lakes In Germany To Visit In Any Season
• Turkey’s Black Sea Coast: Best Things To Experience
• Best Things To Do In Cappadocia, Turkey

I fell in love with Istanbul in 1996. Compliments of the U.S. Army, I was sent to Wurzburg, Germany, for six months. I made the most of every free weekend I had traveling in Europe. 

While in Germany, I took the dreaded mandatory fitness test and happened to get a perfect score on all three events: push-ups, sit-ups, and the 2-mile run. I assure you it would never happen again. This entitled me to four days off. I was off to Istanbul.

Istanbul had been on my radar for a long time. It was an exotic city by Western standards, influenced by the Greeks, Romans, and Ottomans. Its art and architecture reflected its Byzantine and Ottoman heritage. In 1930, Constantinople officially became Istanbul. Sights and sounds like the call to prayer from minarets that punctuated the skyline enticed me to return. I did, this time with my mom, my best friend, and her sister.

They fell in love with Istanbul, too. Here are the reasons why.

1. The Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya), or the Church of Holy Wisdom, was built more than 1,400 years ago in the Byzantine style. Mosaics of Jesus with the Emperor Constantine IX and Empress Zoe and the Virgin Mary with the Baby Jesus in her lap remain intact and mark the structure’s roots as a Christian church. 

The Ottomans converted it to a mosque in the 1400s. What was once a baptistery became a tomb for two sultans, and the Ottomans added the Ablutions Fountain, minarets, and several more mausoleums to the existing floor plan. 

Adjacent to the Hagia Sophia, you’ll see the Baths of Roxelana, named for Suleiman the Magnificent’s wife — a treacherous woman who stopped at nothing to advance her interests. 

2. The Blue Mosque

This iconic building is synonymous with Istanbul. Sultan Ahmet built the mosque in the early 1600s. Its six minarets sparked controversy, since they were considered a rival to Mecca. The Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii) is named for the blue Iznik tiles that cover its interior. It has always been a mosque, so you won’t see any mosaics of people — only geometric patterns, flowers, and vines. Tulips figure prominently, since they were cultivated first in present-day Turkey and later exported to the Netherlands.

Pro Tip: Both men and women must wear modest clothing inside the mosques; exposed shoulders and knees are forbidden. Women must wear headcoverings. Both Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are wheelchair accessible. For details on accessibility throughout Istanbul, visit John Sage’s website. Allow an hour for each location.

3. The Basilica Cistern

A huge, echoing cistern (Yerebatan Sarayi) was built in the 530s and provided water for the nearby sprawling Great Palace. After Constantinople was conquered by the Ottomans in 1453, the cisterns lay undiscovered beneath the city for 100 years. Now classical music mingles with the sound of dripping water as you tour the cavernous space.

Pro Tip: Visit the website (click on the tab in the upper right-hand corner for English) for information about opening times. The cistern is wheelchair accessible.

4. The Hippodrome

Charioteers once raced around the obelisks at the ends of this square. The Egyptian Obelisk once stood in Luxor and dates to 1500 B.C. At the far end, another obelisk, the Column of Constantine Porphyrogenitus, shows signs of wear, since scaling it was a sign of bravery for troops in the sultan’s army.

5. The Turkish Baths

Near Constantine’s Column, on the corner of Divanyolu Caddesi, you’ll see the Cemberlitas Baths. Built in 1584, this bathhouse, or hamam, continues to operate and is used to foreign visitors. Another popular Turkish bathhouse is the Cagaloglu Hamami, built in 1741. You can find more information on Turkish baths here. Allow 1.5 hours for your visit. 

Pro Tip: If you’d like to take home handwoven towels, bathrobes, or bed linens, make a trip to Jennifer’s Hamam, adjacent to the Blue Mosque. On a trip to Turkey, Jennifer Gaudet discovered that the art of handweaving Turkish linens was dying because automated looms produced towels and bedding faster and for less money. She started her shop with just a handful of women who still knew how to weave by hand. Now, about 1,800 rural women weave the items on wooden looms, using traditional techniques. It has become a viable cottage industry in which mothers are teaching their daughters the craft.

6. Topkapi Palace

Sultan Mehmet II built Topkapi Palace between 1459 and 1464 after he conquered Contantinople. It is actually a series of buildings set around courtyards that provide a comprehensive look at the history and opulence of the Ottoman Empire. The palace museum houses royal garments, gemstone-studded artifacts including weapons and a royal cradle, ancient ceramics, and the harem complex that is literally covered with Iznik tiles.

Pro Tip: The Treasury, Harem, and Hall of Holies are all wheelchair accessible. This link has full details on the palace’s accessibility. Allow several hours for your visit.

7. The Archaeological Museum

A short walk from Topkapi Palace is the Archaeological Museum, which has an extensive display of artifacts spanning 5,000 years. One gallery covers Istanbul’s history while another is home to sarcophagi from a royal necropolis.

Pro Tip: The museum’s main building is wheelchair accessible; however, the steep cobblestone road that connects Topkapi Palace with the archeology museum would not be easy to navigate with mobility issues.

8. The Grand Bazaar

You could easily spend a day meandering through Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, which was founded when the Ottomans conquered the city. It took me hours to find my way out when I visited in 1996, but I was easily distracted with the carpets, tiles, ceramics, and evil eyes. 

I would like to say I had a good handle on where I was the second time I visited the bazaar, but even with a map and signs, it is like walking through a maze — a nice one, not like the one in The Shining. 

The shopkeepers are friendly and welcoming. If you choose to look at the Persian carpets or kilims, you’ll be invited into the shop and treated to pomegranate tea with no strings attached. As you sip your tea, the shop owner will give you a short course on how different carpets are woven, what fibers are used, and how long a carpet takes to weave. 

A reputable store will include a certificate of authenticity with your carpet that includes the fiber content (cotton, linen, silk, or wool). 

Pro Tip: The city tram is a good way to travel through Istanbul’s crowded streets, and it conveniently stops across from Carsikapi Gate, a main bazaar entrance. The tram stop is called Beyazit. 

9. The Spice Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar is smaller than the Grand Bazaar, but no less colorful. Also called the Egyptian Bazaar, it was built with money paid as duty on Egyptian imports. Walking through the market, you’ll see heaps of turmeric and curry, dried fruits and nuts, and household goods.

10. The Chora Museum

Originally a church outside the city’s walls, the Chora Museum (Kariye Muzesi) is often overlooked on organized tours. However, a cab ride from the Sultanahmet (Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque) or Seraglio Point (Topkapi Palace) area to the more residential, less touristy part of the city has its rewards.

Within the 11th-century church, you’ll see well-preserved frescoes and mosaics dating to the early 1300s, when it was a Byzantine Greek Orthodox Church. An entire dome is dedicated to the genealogy of Jesus, beginning with Adam. The Virgin Mary is also well represented in the mosaics. Frescoes, more subdued in color but just as stunning, depict the Last Judgment and the winnowing of souls — the saved on the right and the damned on the left.

11. The Bosphorus River 

The Bosphorus River flows between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara, an inland sea located entirely within Turkey. The river’s bigger claim to fame is that it separates Europe from Asia. Cruising the river offers stunning views of the mansions, famous landmarks, mosques, and minarets that hug the shore.

Pro Tip: Cruises vary in length from 2.5 hours to most of the day. I found the 2.5-hour cruise to be plenty of time. Some wheelchair-accessible tours are available, so check before booking.

12. The Alaturka Cooking School

Cooking Alaturka teaches you to cook authentic Turkish meals. Menus are changed up frequently, so if you want to return, you’ll likely learn all new dishes. It’s a divide-and-conquer type of class, with all the cooking divided up among the students. The class finishes with a shared meal and local wine.

Pro Tip: Cooking Alaturka offers 4-hour lunch and dinner classes for English speakers. You’ll go home with recipes. Vegetarians and those with food allergies can be accommodated — just let them know when you book your class.

13. The Delicious Food

Near the Hagia Sophia, you’ll find a number of restaurants that offer fresh, delicious food and outdoor seating. The Istanbul Enjoyer Café & Restaurant and the Anatolia Cafe and Restaurant both offer authentic dishes and great service. 

From the spice market to Galata Bridge, cafes line the street, serving doner (meat roasted on a big, turning skewer), kebabs, and Turkish coffee. 

Pro Tip: Istanbul’s airport is 30 miles from the Sultanahmet and Seraglio Point neighborhoods where you’ll be spending most of your time. Taxi fare is about $30, and prearranged town cars charge about $35.

Picture this: hundreds of elegant, identical, Gothic-style castles, complete with turrets and balconies and arranged in semicircles against a backdrop of rolling hills and dense green woods — but no living soul in sight. That’s exactly what Burj Al Babas in northwestern Turkey looks like. It’s the world’s largest and most expensive ghost town, and here is the story of how it came about.

The History Of Turkey’s Largest Ghost Town

Located halfway between Istanbul and Ankara in the Black Sea Region of Turkey, near the historic village of Mudurnu, Burj Al Babas isn’t very old. In 2014, the Turkish property developer Sarot Property Group began an ambitious project: the construction of a total of 732 luxurious Disneyland-style castles, plus leisure centers, shops, and Turkish baths. The company spent some $200 million on the project, and it planned for each castle to sell for between $400,000 and $500,000. The developers hoped to attract wealthy Middle Eastern buyers who’d be interested in owning their own castles in a romantic setting. They also wanted to attract visitors, financial gain, and attention to this part of the country. Ultimately, 583 castles were completed, and a few were actually sold, although many buyers pulled out. 

But the Turkish lira plummeted in value when the economy went downhill. Unable to repay its heavy loans, Sarot went bankrupt in 2018, and the project was abandoned, resulting in the world’s largest and most expensive ghost town. Visitors say that although many of the castles look complete from the outside, they are unfinished on the inside. You’d think that the workmen just dropped their tools and walked out. Work on the entertainment venues was never started.

The residents of Mudurnu were opposed to the project from the beginning. They felt that the Disneyland-style castles would clash with the history and culture of their village. Mudurnu is known for its black-and-white Ottoman houses, 600-year-old Yildirim Beyazid mosque, Ahi Museum, and idyllic Lake Suluklu. It is even a contender for UNESCO World Heritage site status. 

The Turkish government, however, was and is a great backer of Burj Al Babas. New residency laws might induce foreigners to buy these substantial properties in Turkey. Although it has declared bankruptcy, Sarot is still hopeful that it will be able to revive the ghost town.

If you are in the region, visit Mudurnu, but don’t miss a stroll through the eerie village of Burj Al Babas. The sight of row upon row of castles, all totally abandoned, will fascinate you. In fact, the site is turning into a tourist attraction.

Given the enormous amount of money that has already been spent on the project, one can only hope that these beautiful castles don’t fall into ruin over the years.

Other Ghostly Structures In Turkey

Burj Al Babas is not the only ghost town in Turkey. There is also the abandoned village of Kayakoy, not far from the popular seaside resort of Fethiye in southwestern Turkey. 

Dating to the 14th century, Kayakoy, then called Levissi, was once a thriving community where Christians and Muslims lived in harmony. With the end of the Greco–Turkish War in October of 1922, a forced population exchange took place. The Greek Christans who lived in Kayakoy were forced to resettle in Greece (mostly around Athens) and abandon their pretty houses and churches. The Turks who lived in Greece were required to return to Turkey, but they didn’t want to settle in Kayakoy because they found it too remote. So they went elsewhere.

As a result, since 1923, the buildings of Kayakoy have been abandoned. Broken doors and windows, fallen-in roofs, and empty churches make for a sad and eerie sight. If you visit Fethiye, you shouldn’t miss a peek at this captivating ghost town.

Turkey is also home to the ruins of one of Europe’s largest wooden buildings, the Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage, which has been abandoned since 1964. Located on a hilltop on Buyukada, one of the Princes’ Islands, the huge wooden structure was built in 1823 as a luxury hotel and casino. But the Sultan Abdul Hamid II was a very religious man and forbade the opening of the casino. It was then acquired by a Greek philanthropist who converted the building into an orphanage. It operated as such until 1964, when it closed and was abandoned. 

If you visit the Princes’ Islands, make a detour to Buyukada and look at the doorless and windowless wooden palace. You’ll find yourself wondering if it might be haunted!

Visiting Socotra Island can feel a little like leaving Planet Earth entirely.

Sometimes referred to as the “Galapagos of the Indian Ocean,” the island is so isolated from the rest of the world that more than a third of its plant life is found nowhere else. This makes exploring the island one of the world’s most memorable experiences.

Visually, there is no other place in the world like Socotra Island. The biodiversity of the island is almost unmatched. Filled with island-specific reptiles, insects, and birds, every animal is an exciting discovery for a tourist.

However, the species the island is most known for is actually incredible plant life.

Many refer to the island’s plants as “alien-looking,” referring largely to the bottle trees, cucumber trees, and dragon blood trees, all of which give the island its unique appearance.

Bottle trees are fairly short, with wide bottoms and thinner tops, making the tree look more like a vase filled with flowers. The cucumber tree is another short, thick trunk — like that of a cucumber — with flowing green leaves that, unlike most trees, fall straight down, rather than shooting out to the side. The dragon blood tree, named after its red sap, looks a little like an umbrella. It has a tall trunk and a rounded top of leaves, which abruptly cut off in a completely straight line, leaving a visible maze of roots. No other place on the planet has this combination of visuals.

While Socotra Island is officially classified as part of Yemen, it sits hundreds of miles away from the country’s mainland. Traveling to the island requires a 3-hour plane ride, a now-easy feat that wasn’t possible until 1999, when the island opened its first airport. After the subsequent influx in tourism, the island was classified as a World Natural Heritage Site in 2008, which helps promote conservation and protection of its unique biodiversity.

Socotra Island is part of a group of islands, the Socotra Archipelago, located in the Arabian Sea and home to roughly 50,000 inhabitants. The island’s biodiversity is the reason for both local tourism and major conservation projects, two initiatives that did not become common for the area until the 1990s.

As a fairly new tourist destination, tourists should understand that this is not a standard island retreat with amenities on every corner. Journeys on boat can be rough, and the island has very few actual roads. However, tourists who decide to venture to the island are rewarded with stunning views and a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Related Reading:

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“Maybe you’d like to go somewhere with me tonight. I’ll show you some special places,” our guide said as we sat on the reef after snorkeling in the Red Sea in Egypt. He had purposefully directed our snorkeling as far away as possible from Reggie. She had stopped snorkeling earlier and I was alone with the guide.

I was very uncomfortable. “No. We need to get an early start tomorrow,” I said as I took off my mask and fins. I was eager to get back to Reggie and started walking. He continued to talk quietly to me, trying to get me to go somewhere private with him.

We were on a private tour going to the Sinai Desert and he would be our guide/driver for the next several days. I politely brushed him off. He did not get the hint. I couldn’t tell him that Reggie was my wife. That I was a lesbian. In Egypt, same-sex sexual activity is punishable by up to 17 years in prison. We were going to be traveling alone with him in very deserted areas. We were worried.

Trip Of A Lifetime: Egypt And Jordan

Reggie and I had wanted to go to Egypt for years. This was early in our traveling days and I decided to plan a trip for her 40th birthday. Birthdays are not a big thing for her, but I wanted to make this one special. We splurged on a private tour starting in Cairo, taking a Nile cruise, going to Sharm El-Sheikh, the Sinai Desert, and then to Jordan and Petra.

It was everything that we hoped for. Experiencing the insanity of traffic in Cairo. Waking up at the base of the Pyramids of Giza. Wandering by the Sphinx. Gazing at the immensity of Abu Simbel, Karnak, and other temples. Seeing the more than 3,500-year-old hieroglyphics in the Valley of the Kings. Visiting Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple. Hearing the call to prayer in the evenings while cruising up the Nile.

Expert Local Egyptian Tour Operator

We had expert guides for all of these experiences. Our tour operator, Wahid, called us every night to check in and see how we were doing. When we were in Cairo, he even had us to his home with his family for a surprise birthday dinner for Reggie.

After the Nile Cruise, we switched to a new local guide. That’s when things became uncomfortable.

Setting Out For The Sinai Desert

The morning after the snorkeling trip, we left for the drive to St. Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. At one point during the long drive, the road just stopped. There was a crew paving a segment of the road. We laughed and then just went off-road for a while until the road appeared again.

Visiting St. Catherine’s Monastery

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, St. Catherine’s Monastery is located near Mt. Sinai (also called Jebel Musa). It was built in the mid-500s A.D. and has one of the oldest libraries in the world. It is still a working monastery. The monks believe that the Burning Bush (from Exodus in the Bible) grows in the courtyard. It signifies the place where God appointed Moses to lead the Jewish people out of Egypt. I’m Jewish (but not very religious) and Reggie is Christian. We love seeing ancient religious sites and we both enjoyed the monastery.

Climbing Mt. Sinai

Reggie and I stayed overnight in the Sinai Desert. The plan was to see the monastery in the afternoon and then be at the top of Mt. Sinai for the sunrise. I was excited about seeing the view from the top and being in the place where Moses was thought to have received the Ten Commandments.

To Climb Or Not To Climb

At this point, Reggie and I were very uncomfortable with our guide. He had continued to be inappropriate with me. Climbing Mt. Sinai meant leaving in the dark and climbing until sunrise. With two of us, it seemed fine. Then Reggie’s knees began to hurt. The climb to Mt. Sinai includes 750 steps on the way up and 3,700+ on the way down. We decided that she could not do it.

Then it was up to me. Should I do it by myself with the guide? After a long discussion with Reggie, I decided not to do the climb. I have regretted that decision ever since.

Lessons Learned In Egypt

The Egypt trip was early in our traveling adventures. Since then, we’ve been to about 50+ countries and we’ve learned a great deal about what it means to travel as women and as a couple. There are more than 76 countries where it is illegal or socially unacceptable to be LGBTQ+. For us, the issue is not about public displays of affection, going to bars, or being public. We value and conform to the social norms of the particular country we’re in. We are more focused on our own safety as women and as LGBTQ+. In other words, being safe where we are sleeping and walking down the street.

Traveling Safely As An LGBTQ+ Couple

We learned that it is sometimes safer to travel in a group and with an LGBTQ+ friendly tour company. We used an Egyptian tour company because we wanted to support the local community, but we did not tell them before the trip that we were a couple. When we went to Morocco the next year (where being LGBTQ+ is punishable by three-plus years in prison), we went with a group and told the tour guide beforehand.

Mt. Sinai Redoux

As much as I know that it was the right decision at the time, I regret not climbing Mt. Sinai. Two years later, I was in a similar position in Tanzania. There, had no hesitancy about doing the climb by myself with a Masai guide.

Navigating Sexual Harassment

Navigating sexual advances and harassment in other countries is challenging. And this was not the first (or last) time that we’ve been sexually harassed by a guide or on the street. Some people have said that we should wear rings and tell people that our husbands are back in the United States. We have never been willing to do that. Others have asked why we travel to countries that persecute LGBTQ+ people. We go because we want to experience the culture and history. Respecting social norms and being uncomfortable is sometimes part of that. We draw the line at safety — we won’t go unless we can figure out a way to be safe.

Be Creative In Finding Solutions

In Egypt, we learned that if we really want to do something, we need to figure out a way to do it. We could have decided to pay extra for me to join a group to climb Mt. Sinai. We could have called Wahid and asked him to help us book another guide. There were many things we could have done that would have resulted in my being able to step on top of Mt. Sinai. We didn’t. We were caught up in what we would say to Wahid about the guide hitting on me. We made many mistakes and have learned from them.

So, I didn’t end up on top of Mt. Sinai, but the lessons we learned from Mt. Sinai have informed every trip since then. For more of my travel stories and tips, consider:

• These Are My 3 Favorite Places To Visit On Every Continent
• 9 Rookie Mistakes Made By Two Experienced Hikers
• How To Survive Almost 24 Hours On A Plane
• 7 Key Lessons I Learned While Trying To Climb A Volcano In Tanzania
• 16 Tips For Traveling With Hearing Aids

Even roller coaster aficionados will pause before getting aboard this ride.

But if you have the thrill-seeker gene, a new attraction being built in Saudi Arabia might be just the thing for you.

Falcon’s Flight is billed as the longest, tallest, and fastest roller coaster in the world, and that’s not hyperbole.

The ride will cover about 2.5 miles of track and reach speeds of 155 miles per hour. The highlight will be a track that dives off a 525-foot cliff into the valley below where magnetic motor acceleration reaches record-breaking speed.

The Qiddiya Investment Company has partnered with Six Flags to build Falcon’s Flight, the centerpiece of Six Flags Qiddiya, set to open in 2023 outside Riyadh.

“I will never forget the moment when I was standing at the edge of the 200-meter-high cliff on the Tuwaiq Mountain in Qiddiya, looking into the valley and imagining the creation of a future record-setting roller coaster,” Daniel Schoppen, Vice President of Design and Development for Intamin Amusement Rides, said in a statement.

Just how fast is 155 miles per hour? For some perspective, visitors of Disneyland and Disney World can imagine Thunder Mountain, which whips travelers around at speeds that reach just 36 miles per hour. Or Space Mountain, which hits just 27. Las Vegas tourists may have tried the roller coaster at New York-New York, which drops from its peak at 67 miles per hour.

Now imagine going multiple times faster than that and dropping off a cliff in the process.

“The worldwide unique setting and heights such as the natural cliff will enable us to design an architectural masterpiece in steel,” Schoppen said.

In addition to the speed and the drops, the track will feature several 360-degree loops.

Video of the simulated ride is enough to give one chills. And that’s the idea.

“Roller coaster fans around the world have been eagerly anticipating this ride since it was announced as there is nothing quite like it anywhere else,” said Phillippe Gas, CEO of Qiddiya. “Falcon’s Flight will dominate the skyline at Qiddiya, weave all the way around our destination, right out of the theme park, up the cliffside, and down the cliff face.”

At 525 feet tall, Falcon’s Flight will surpass Kingda Ka at the tallest steel roller coaster in the world. Kingda Ka, located at Six Flags Great Adventure in Jackson Township, New Jersey, stands 456 feet.

Just now in the construction phase, Six Flags Qiddiya will cover 79 acres and feature 28 rides and attractions and six themed areas: The City of Thrills, Discovery Springs, Steam Town, Twilight Gardens, Valley of Fortune, and Grand Exposition.

Appropriately, the start of Falcon’s Flight will begin in The City of Thrills.

“It won’t be for the fainthearted,” promises Gas.

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Having grown up near and on the water, I love anything to do with boats. That said, you will probably never find me on a large cruise ship because I like flexibility and hate crowds when traveling. After the pandemic more than ever. But there are alternatives that give you the thrill of being on the water, feeling the wind in your hair, standing at the bow, looking ahead at your new destination from the water, which I think is just so much more fun than landing at an airport.

Despite my dislike of cruises, I have a distinct love of ferries. Go figure. A short, purposeful, and more often than not, cheap ferry filled with locals thrills me. It does not matter where I go, if there is a funicular or a ferry, I’ll be on it. And if it can take the place of a flight, even better, because just like with train travel, travel on a ferry it is just as much about the journey as it is about the destination.

Here is a selection of ferry trips within Europe that take you from one country to the next, across various seas, along rivers, or simply from one end of a city to the other. All have been chosen for their ease of use, great scenery along the way, convenience, or their way of providing an inexpensive alternative to a touristy boat trip.

Step aboard, and bon voyage.

Editor’s Note: If you’re looking to travel Europe by train, we’ve got you covered, too.

1. Countless Ferries In Istanbul, Turkey

One of the reasons that Istanbul is such a beautiful destination is not only its extensive history, but also the fact that it stretches across the Golden Horn waterway, the Bosphorus strait, and along the Sea of Marmara, all of which are crisscrossed by countless ferries. Hopping on a selection of these ferries should be near the top of your to-do list when exploring Istanbul. Most leave from the inner-city hub of Eminonu by the Galata Bridge. From here, you can catch a ferry to the colorful suburb of Balat; across to Uskudar on the Asian side; or up the Bosphorus toward the Black Sea. All tickets are cheap and easily bought at ticketing machines, and these normal commuter ferries will allow you to see all the sights from the water, travel past the smaller islands like Maiden’s Tower, and enjoy the sunshine while you go — all without paying the extortionate prices for the organized tourist harbor cruises.

Pro Tip: Plan for a stop in Ortakoy to see the pretty mosque and enjoy the little market with its food stalls.

2. Stockholm, Sweden, To Helsinki, Finland

Traveling from the Swedish capital of Stockholm to the Finish capital of Helsinki by overnight ferry is probably the closest you will come to a cruise in this selection. Competing lines Viking Line and Tallink Silja Line have decked out their ships with saunas, restaurants serving local delicacies, and various other comforts. The ferries leave in the afternoon and arrive the next morning around 10 a.m., so you have plenty of time to stay on deck to take in the Swedish archipelago, with its countless small islands dotted with tiny, wooden huts, and also enjoy the ship itself. You can get a good night’s sleep before heading back on deck for the arrival in Finland.

Pro Tip: It is best to have either an early dinner, straight after departure, or a late one, after sunset, because the second and third hours after departure from Stockholm are the most scenic.

3. Venice To Burano, Italy

When in Venice, do as the locals do and catch a vaporetto, or waterbus, to the colorful little island of Burano. Vaporetti 12 and 14 leave from either San Zaccaria (near St. Mark’s Basilica) or Fondamente Nove and head to Burano, stopping at the glass-making island of Murano and continuing onto Mazzorbo and Torcello. Sitting on this large waterbus, you can spend all day on the waters of the Venetian Lagoon, enjoying the views and the other islands as you go.

Pro Tip: Buy a day ticket (or a three-day ticket, depending on how long you are staying for) to get unlimited access to public transport. This way, you can hop on and off, spending a few happy hours exploring the various islands.

4. Algeciras, Spain, To Tangier, Morocco

The Strait of Gibraltar is the stretch of water that connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean Sea and divides Europe from Africa. On a clear day, you can spot one continent while standing on the other, and there are plenty of ferries making the quick connection between the ports. While there are many other crossings, my favorite ferry route is between Algeciras and Tangier because you sail right past Gibraltar with great views of the rock, and Tangier is a superb setting-off point for exploring Morocco.

Pro Tips: There are several ferry companies doing this route, with around 30 sailings every day. You can choose from fast, 1.5-hour crossings to slower ones, taking 2.5 hours. All ferries are open to foot passengers as well as vehicles.

5. Barcelona To Mallorca, Spain

While you are in Spain, you might want to check out the Balearic Islands. One good way of connecting from the mainland is to take the ferry from Barcelona to Mallorca or maybe Ibiza, depending on your preference. The crossings take six to seven hours, allowing you a day on the Mediterranean Sea to enjoy the sun, sea, and sights.

Pro Tip: There are two ferry operators that offer different itineraries, so you could opt for a night crossing in a cabin if you have connections to consider on your return trip.

6. Saint-Malo, France, To Jersey Island

Setting off from beautiful Saint-Malo and taking the 1.5-hour-long, twice-daily sailing to the Bailiwick of Jersey is a lovely experience, especially once you get closer to the island. Condor Ferries operates a no-nonsense, easy-to-use ferry that’s open to both foot passengers and vehicles, with restaurants and shopping onboard.

Pro Tip: Despite the short distance, it is worth paying a few dollars for an upgrade to the Horizon Lounge, as you will get seats with great views from the inside.

7. Athens To Santorini, Greece

Sailing through the Greek Islands by cruise ship is a popular route, and not surprisingly so. The beauty of the islands set against the Mediterranean Sea is unbeatable. But traveling by ferry between the islands allows you far more flexibility at a more affordable price. Head off from the Athens port of Piraeus and head for that oh-so-picturesque island of Santorini. Yes, Santorini is touristy, but you simply cannot beat those white and blue buildings nestled in the mountains. And on the way, you will spot many other islands and can enjoy being on the turquoise sea — while contemplating which island to hop to next. Ferryhopper has more on ferrying from Athens to Santorini here.

Pro Tip: There are many operators and ships, including slower car ferries and faster catamarans and hydrofoils. Choose carefully, as some of the faster ferries do not have open decks, and you will spend your time indoors, missing the views.

8. Split To Dubrovnik, Croatia

Croatia has arguably the best coastline in Europe. It’s full of beaches, bays, islands, and medieval seaside towns, and the best way to enjoy the sights is by boat. There are plenty of organized tours and cruises, but the local ferries do the same job with more flexibility at a lower cost. Consider the trip from the seaside resort town of Split to the fortified city of Dubrovnik for maximum impact. You will not be able to pry yourself away from the views, I promise. Regular ferries operate up and down the coast, and this is just one option of many.

Editor’s Note: This isn’t the first time we’ve written about seeing Croatia by boat — it truly is worth your while.

Pro Tip: Dubrovnik gets terribly crowded, so you might want to time your sailing to arrive in the afternoon, when the crowds start to thin out.

9. Central London To Greenwich, UK

This isn’t a cruise ship but a waterbus, albeit one with the best seats in the house. Taking the waterbus from central London toward Greenwich is a veritable sightseeing tour that offers views of Westminster, St Paul’s, the Globe Theatre, the many bridges, Tate Modern, the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, and many more, all at the price of a bus ticket. Here is the map of the river (and all the things you’ll see along the way).

Pro Tip: If you are spending a few days in London, invest in an Oyster card for all public transport options.

Destinations mentioned in this article:

• Athens
• Barcelona
• Croatia
• Helsinki
• Istanbul
• London
• Stockholm

Along the coast of Hormuz Island, Iran, is a striking visual: a string of brightly colored domes, standing in stark contrast against the sandy gulf.

This colorful architecture, entitled “Presence in Hormuz,” is the work of ZAV Architects. They combined their appreciation for the beauty of the Persian Gulf with their desire to empower the local community, resulting in these beautifully colored urban developments.

The designs of these domes are based on the “superadobe” technique of Iranian architect Nader Khalili. The architects wanted the buildings to feel at one with the earth below, so they were inspired by nearby resources and the local topography.

The island influenced nearly every detail of the construction. The domes themselves are built from stacked sandbags filled with nearby soil, sand, and gravel, while the carpets are woven with knots inspired by the varying ecologies of the island.

Even the colors of the domes are inspired by the local community.

“The island has outstanding colorful surreal landscapes,” the architects explain, and the vibrant reds, greens, yellows, and blues of the domes are meant to honor that. And while the cluster of colorful domes is beautiful from the outside, the inside is no different. The color schemes are the same, and the walls and furniture reflect the same energizing aesthetic.

While they are visually stunning, the main goal with these domes was to involve the local community. Their design and scale make it easy for both local craftsmen and untrained workers to participate in the construction.

These domes were also designed to emulate already familiar structures within the region in order to make the construction process even more understandable. This project was about more than just looking nice; it was also about engaging the members of the community and stimulating the local economy.

“Presence in Hormuz” is home to dining, stores, laundry accommodations, prayer centers, and even houses. By considering the community’s needs every step of the way, ZAV Architects ended up with beautiful and useful structures, serving as both a reflection of the community and a resource moving forward.

While you’re good and mesmerized, here are some more wonderfully colorful destinations:

• The 11 Most Colorful Cities In The World
• Discover The Colorful Village of Colmar, France
• These Colorful Volcanic Sand Dunes Make Taking A Bad Photo Impossible
• 11 Colorful Sand Beaches You Have To See To Believe